Brian

Those tires are huge for the power you have. If you want to use them, it would be wise to jack up the tire pressure pretty high like z33dori said.

Also, street drifting is cool.

What kind of differential do you have?

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Perfect Balance

QFT.

Even Japan as well with the 800hp cars.


I'd try 225/40/18s

It's not going to be quite as fast but actually being able to do something with the car is better than simply speed. This is why a Lotus Elise comes with 175s on the front.

word sux

I would say just get some stock se wheels for the rear for drifting


us the 18's for DD stuff

joshyman

do you think i could keep those 18s on there, and just put smaller tires?

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1990 UCF11

joshyman

also, running a welded diffy.

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Brian

Here is my take on the matter

I ran my s13 with a stock KA. I mean STOCK. Didn't even have a cone air filter on there.

I used 215/40-18s on the rear and could drift fairly well. I didn't even jack up the tire pressure very high. Usually ran 45 psi or so.

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Z33dori

Quicky Tire guide

KA:
17-18" wheel; 205-225 tire; 35-40 profile; 45-60psi

SR:
16" wheel; ANY crap u can get lol; 45-60 psi
17-18" wheel; 205-up; 35-45 profile; 45-50 psi

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fckillerbee

get a smaller rim/tire setup. buy some 16's. put a 205 55 16 on. 40psi...enjoy yourself.

looking gay and having fun is much cooler than having cool wheels and looking gay, and not having fun. imo.

joshyman

sounds like a plan man. i gotta find a decent set of 16s now...

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jspec_S14

Hey guys, ive been trying to enter my drifts with some space between me and the outside of the corner, then doing a slower version of the traditional flick, countersteering with short handbraking, followed by clutch kick/power over... this has been working really well soo far but my concern is after the drift is acheived, i let the car steer itself out when transitioning to a drift going the other way but i want to kick the car out farther without continuously giving it gas, it speeds the car up too fast to continue drifitng. Essentially, how can i keep it drifting after a corner without pounding the throttle, is it how agressivly i transfer between drifts? is it my initial exit angle? something of the sorts?

thanks

Perfect Balance

If you're going immediately into a corner the other way, you can usually brake right after the transition to scrub speed but not lose the drift, and since the brakes are more front biased you don't straighten out.

It's important to be sure you're already sliding the other way before braking though, otherwise I've seen this turn into some epic understeer moments.

If you're referring to simply making a drift last longer coming out of corners, angle helps but it's hard to maintain without power.

There are a few other methods, one involving lots of power and simply frying the rear tires so they don't really do anything as far as acceleration, and I've seen people (which also requires power) simply left foot braking when staying on the throttle to prevent the car from accelerating while the rear wheels are spinning.

Basically, cars with a lot of power can keep a drift going much further down a straight before requiring some kind of transition to keep it sliding. You'll find with an underpowered car, pounding the throttle and clutch kicking is frequently the only way to make it work.

fckillerbee

I'm not sure if we are all on the same page of what you mean. it could be line. it could be a power issue. videos usually help a lot more to understand what you are doing, and what you need to do.

anything of that sort?

s13Kurt

Why do so much when you initiate? I believe this could be simplified by using just a faint and a clutch kick. I think I understand what ur saying on the 2nd part of the post......How about once you get in the slide if your say full lock going into a left hander the wheel will be locked all the way right instead of leaving it locked turn it to the left (play with it) to try and get the car rotate with out having to stay on the gas. If that makes any sense.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KXXQWrc3es Something like this....i know everybody's seen this already.

Z33dori

Dont let the car steer....take control. This was my biggest mistake i made at my last event. I would enter and let the car do what it wanted and then try and work a line. But as soon as you initiate you need to take control of the wheel and the car and make it follow the right line (which varies by power and style).

Also for extended your line on exit, reduce your angle and back off the gas.

Video studying is really the best thing you can do between events. Hell if you get bored enough try sitting there with a wheel and following the drivers motion to get a small idea on correct hand motions and what not.

Here is a nice 200 vid incar playlist i have compiled, some better than others .
In Car Playlist

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Perfect Balance

I think this is true only to an extent. Things will still go much smoother if you can figure out what the car WANTS to do, and then figure out how to drive it so you can make it go in the direction you want with minimal "forcing".
Aggressive doesn't have to be unsmooth.

I see a lot of people trying to make the car do what they think it should do and it just ends up as a bunch of fail and usually the driver blaming it on some kind of problem with the car instead of their own driving.

Z33dori

well once u have found the time to replace all the blown bushing and etc, they car will just do as you tell it.... till then yes it will fight you

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fckillerbee

that's a deep playlist.

as far as letting the car work itself, I agree and disagree. It's not so much the steering that decides on where you are going. It's throttle, and all timing.

When you initiate, a simple scandanavian flick and clutch kick is the easiest solution I have found to get the car to kick out and point. Your line isn't about steering...it's about the timing. For example, when you switch back, and hit a clipping point, it's timing. The weight of the car is going to go where it wants, it's up to you to understand at what time...will the car catch grip and shoot forward.

Now...when you are already in a drift, and you need to correct, that is only when steering input should be entered. If your timing is exact, you can have full lock, and have the throttle decide on which line you are going to take.

Now for the guys with limited power, and you are trying to extend your line, then yes....steering is going to tell you where your car is going to go (mid drift). But upon initiation, its just a timing thing. For me, I pick a RPM, and a spot to initiate on the track to fine tune my Initiations. Upon transitions, it's a spot on the track. I don't make heavy changes to my line, I more so try and figure out what the car is going to do under full acceleration (understand I drive a stock KA). Once the car is felt out, and many full throttle lines are taken, that is where I will fine tune my line and start adding steering input.

Now that my car is extremely low, I now know the difference in suspension geometry, and it is much harder to drive a car with little movement in the geometry. So if your car isn't dialed right, you are going to have some issues learning it. You want the easiest learning curve possible in order to fine tune everything you are trying to do. Hopefully that's why you picked a 240 and not a FC or a 300zx.

But if you are asking for some serious advice input, video tape what you are doing. An outside cam of your run, as well as an in car cam. Outside will tell you where you need to be, inside will tell you where you are fucking up. ;D

nieko

I hope you didn't invent this shitty ass tire guide. LOLOL

45-60 psi on a 16 with sr?

Do you hate forward speed? LOL

So many wrongs in that whole "Tire guide"

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fckillerbee

alright mr I drift perfectly...I can one manji balcony with w single cam ka. Mr Boss I crash corollas cause I love endangering species..lol

Nieko is right. sr's shouldn't run anything less than a 225 40 17.

Hell I have stock KA, 225 40 18x10's.

sr with 16's...shit better be 235's with 30 psi. lol.

I once drove a sr with 225's at 40psi and I spun the fuck out when I upshifted to third to initiate. Was like driving in the rain.

Bone stock KA feels good with 205 55 16 with 40 psi.

Z33..i know you are trying to help. But please state your OPINION and not make it look like a fact. Even I make recommendations based on my driving style. Even though I've helped a lot of people learn through instructing...everyone has their preferences.

I once had Karl Wasabi (mulsanne) drive my car...and he didn't understand it. But I make it work.

and everyone should listen to NIEKO...he is a FUCKING BOSS.

iamtheyi

^ lol Nieko is pretty boss. I saw him twice at last year's 626 march madness and ladies drift event. He does love to kill those Corollas though. Both events, killed one and injured the other haha.

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Z33dori

I don't every remember saying it was official, lol.
Nothing says you have to leave the pressure that high, not every sr is super healthy either.

I started out on 60 and eventually worked down to 45- 40 on some 225 60s 16. The first set of tires had a lot of bite at 60, but the second set had none, so that's when I dropped it down. There are a lot of factors that change each tire depending on day and temp and driver style.

I did forgot to mention timing, I guess because I figured it comes naturally with learning the track. But yes timing is very big key, huge key.

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boostedbimmer

Hey dj pimp flex did you compete in just drift top drift last year? I saw a 240 there with carbon doors and same color, anyway e-brake initiations are great for high speed entry into a tight corner and clutch kick/ feint ect are great for developing speed in a drift, but I think the goal is to make your drift to clean and controlled so....... due what you need to accomplish that,
And wheel speed is more important than style, my e36 had trouble spiinning 3rd on 16's so I supercharged to be able to spin them easier but then noticed 17x9's look cooler so I switched from 205's to 245's and now am back at square 1. (Need more power!)

hessianben

quick tip on the tire pressure topic:

if you max out the pressure, you will break loose much easier, but the tires have a tendency to chunk.

with the pressure closer to spec, they will wear smoothly.

SKINNY D

tire pressure for me was always 34-36lbs up front, in the rear around 32-38... always dialed it according to feel, and sometimes the tires... like my potenzas chunked up crazy at 36 psi, but when i dropped it to 32 which made the hell of a difference it felt awesome and lasted almost the whole event.

17x9.5 battles all around, 225/40 front, 235-255/40-45 rear... love lower pressures. and clutch kicking is awesome with a little flick prior to clutch kick.

ericcastro

I run the same thing, but 45 series on 17's.
same pressure and engine.
works great.

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Originally Posted by 9K∙RACING™ If you were such a baller and had standards you wouldn't be on this forum..

word sux

I keep my rear tire pressure at about 48psi

its all about how you like it. different people like different setups. the only way to find out what you like is to get out there and drive. until then its all speculation.

gobackwards

Don't be afraid of tire pressure. When I ran the ka I had at least 60 psi in the rears but usually closer to 80. 205's or 215's... on 17s. With a ka there's really no such thing as forward bite, it's all just carrying speed.

fckillerbee

^^^ and I thought running 60 psi was starting to get scary. 80...your brave. lol

gobackwards

haha never had a problem at 80. This is also for high speed drifts, no 80 on the balcony

word sux

80psi is crazy high..