tricks you guys use - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

racepar1 · 06-22-2010, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMXer91331

Another one for hoses... if you have a a hose that whont go in such as a radiator hose not going in get a little grease with your finger and lube it up on the inside it will slip in so fast youl hit yourself in the head for not ever doing that before.

Actually if you spray the inside of the offending hose/nipple with carb cleaner the hose will slide right on. The carb cleaner evaporates away and doesn't leave any residue between the hose and the nipple. You just have to be fast because it evaporates...

rowley65flip · 06-22-2010, 07:54 PM

If you spray alittle hair spray on your intercooler couplers they slide on easier and it helps to keep from from blowing off.

lflkajfj12123 · 06-22-2010, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matej

Especially coilover threads. Even when they are new, before you install them, and every time you have them taken out. They will never rust or seize up.

This. I learned the hard way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

Trans. fill plug removal:
IF your fill plug isn't too boogered up a 19mm 12-point box-end wrench grabs that 17mm square head quite nicely.

Broken bolt removal:
Throw away every easy-out or similar tool you have out and go buy a welder. All you do is weld a nut to the broken bolt and it comes right out. The heat hepls to break it loose as well. Even if the stud is sunk into an aluminum head you can still weld it, I've done it. It turned an impossible to remove broken bolt into a 10 minute job.

That bolt tip is probably the best tip I've read in this thread. Also...

I always fill up transmission oil from the shifter. It's pretty easy and beats crawling under the car.

unreal- · 06-23-2010, 12:41 AM

Awesome thread.

i have a few of my own from many days and nights spent cursing and scuffing my knuckles

- Got a stubborn bolt and dont have impact tools? Tap the wrench/rachet you are using to loosen the bolt with a hammer. Ive gotten really tough bolts out that way. Works the same way as an impact gun.

- Freeze off is better than holy water. that has replaced the PB blaster in my toolbox.

- When doing caliper work, zip ties are your friend.

- ***TIME SAVER*** If you are doing a multi-step job, and one step is a PITA (ie. knock sensor) just do that PITA step FIRST, and do the easy ones later. It sucks running out of daylight, when you still have the pita part of the job to do.

*ManoNegra* · 06-23-2010, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavenboundkevin

for stuff like radiator hoses etc.

if there is a rubber hose stuck that wont come off by pulling straight out, grab pliers and twist the hose(while its still on the fitting -clockwise/counterclockwise. it breaks the seal and the hose should be easier to pull off.

be careful with this
I've broken the neck of old radiators doing it this way

Quote:

Originally Posted by s0apgun

I always fill up transmission oil from the shifter. It's pretty easy and beats crawling under the car.

x2, by far the easiest method

Quote:

Originally Posted by unreal-

- When doing caliper work, zip ties are your friend.

I like to use short tie downs with hooks on them
to hold brake calipers and suspension components out of the way
and keep stress off brake lines

bringing down a transmission:
loosen motor mounts to swivel motor towards you
then you can get a long extension on the hard to reach bolts
you can also get at the top ones from above with a ratcheting wrench
but can end up with bruised knuckles

motor mounts:
put a jack under the transmission mount to support the motor
loosen and lower the crossmember about 1/2"
that will give you room to get the mounts out
use a swivel socket to get at the 14mm motor mount bolts

datboibrad · 06-23-2010, 08:51 AM

sweet thread.

a recent trick i found to remove flywheel bolts without an impact. install a bolt into one of the transmission holes on the block. lay a pickle fork or large screw driver over the bolt and lodge it into the teeth of the flywheel. use your breaker on the flywheel bolt obviously and pop it loose.

another version that works i used on a 1j the other day was to bolt a 14mm wrench down to the transmission bolt hole and put a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel and pop the flywheel bolts loose that way.

im used to working alone so i rarely have that buddy to help fight against a bolt

s13silvia123 · 06-23-2010, 01:14 PM

i made my own little table for head work especially when installing or taking out valve springs plus porting and polishing work.
its made of wood

*dawagarage* · 06-23-2010, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismolvr

Bench bleed master cylinder with fittings and lines from wrecking yard.Make sure you cut the front and rear lines from donor car ,long enough to curl upwards and into brake fluid reservoir ,so you can see air bubbles escaping as you bench bleed it.There are some cheap plastic kits ,but i prefer this method better.

When bleeding brakes, always begin with the wheel furthest from MC ,On US Cars RR,LR.FR,FL ,Use a see through hose and an empty plastic water bottle . and take your six point closed end ,8 or 10mm wrench put it on bleeder fitting first and take the clear hose and install it on bleeder fitting ,make sure its on tight ,if loose use a zip tie.Bleed calipers and make sure the other end of hose is in the water bottle below fluid level, so you can see all air escape the line.

i havent traced the lines myself, but there was a thread in which i directed someone to bleed their brakes in this way, because from above it looks very logical.. but a few people corrected me saying that the way the brake lines are routed makes the bleeding process different? i dont remember the sequence they suggested.. oh well.

anyways a tip. download and print the FSMS! follow torque specs!

SinGarage · 06-23-2010, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

i made my own little table for head work especially when installing or taking out valve springs plus porting and polishing work.
its made of wood

Oooh please post some pics and specs. I've been wondering how to make one for the longest time.

My contribution: If you are trying to take out old and worn bushings, burn them out instead of a press. It is a lot faster I think plus not everyone has an access to a press. Just clean them out after their cool, repaint, and install new bushings.

xs042lol · 06-23-2010, 05:09 PM

when trying to figure out the length of hard lines, or any type of line in your car, like vacuum ones that are still on

grab a shoe lace and use that, or use some thick string (so it doesnt break if you need to pull it hard) and then trace it and measure the lenght. i needed that for hard lines yesterday

babyjesus · 06-24-2010, 11:40 AM

gearwrench or any other ratcheting wrench, these things are the greatest!!!

also, buy gearwrench brand over craftsman, they have the same lifetime warranty at sears and they're like 1/2 the price and better quality...i worked at sears for 5 years, they're amazing, AND at least once a month they go on sale for like 50% off!!!

get on it!

sirfallsalot243 · 06-24-2010, 11:48 AM

Dont buy anything from Megan Racing.

Mangudai · 06-24-2010, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prodigyJJ

(for unorganized people) When removing parts with a lot of screws/bolts, put the bolts back in the same holes as or after the part is removed so you don't have a shit ton of bolts and wonder which ones go where.

Yep or put them in zip lock bags and label them.

Perfect Balance · 06-24-2010, 05:55 PM

For transmission bolts, instead of trying to get your wrench/hands up there in those tight spaces to get to the bolts, just put together a bunch of extensions and a universal joint and just feed it up from the drive shaft area. You can usually get to all the bolts easily this way and just chill out on your back (if you're working on the floor) while you do it.

Also, the hood mod/remove your hood when doing anything on the engine. So much more space.

undesiredshoe · 06-24-2010, 06:44 PM

Buy or make this tool for removing exhaust hangers. Charge your frustrated friends money or beer to borrow this tool when they try to install their ebay exhaust.

ericcastro · 06-24-2010, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

Broken bolt removal:
Throw away every easy-out or similar tool you have out and go buy a welder. All you do is weld a nut to the broken bolt and it comes right out. The heat hepls to break it loose as well. Even if the stud is sunk into an aluminum head you can still weld it, I've done it. It turned an impossible to remove broken bolt into a 10 minute job.

What about when you snap wended on bolts, like the one on, ...lets say a steering column, lol

dont waste your time stripping hardline fittings.
just use these.

*DJPimpFlex* · 06-24-2010, 07:54 PM

When your reinstalling the transmission don't bother putting the top 2 bolts of the bell housing back on. If its good enough for Nascar its good enough for your little S13.

J40sx · 06-24-2010, 08:24 PM

For S13 chassis:
Use black duct tape to redo or add pinstripes on your car, make sure you leave extra tape on the ends because they shrink in the heat. Also make sure the lines are straight or else they will look ghetto.

Perfect Balance · 06-24-2010, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by undesiredshoe

Buy or make this tool for removing exhaust hangers. Charge your frustrated friends money or beer to borrow this tool when they try to install their ebay exhaust.

Spray wd-40 on your hangers to help slide the exhaust on or off, and save money on buying a tool for the job.

s14unimog · 06-25-2010, 08:36 AM

OH OH OH.... I've got a good one, remembered this last night when I was doing some wiring.

When ever you have to wire something, especially if it has a decent amperage draw (fan wiring, etc..) and have to connect two or more wires. Stagger the wire cuts like an AT&T "raising the bar" commercial. This not only ensures that you'll avoid connectivity if your heat shrink fails but also keeps from having that "tumor" when you wrap your new connection with tape or more heat shrink.

Motorcycle/bicycle related trick... used compressed air to remove hand grips; just blow between the bar and grip and it'll slip right off every time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJPimpFlex

When your reinstalling the transmission don't bother putting the top 2 bolts of the bell housing back on.

I'm sure its fine but come on, that's just lazy... Put ALL your bolts back on...

sirfallsalot243 · 06-25-2010, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

Motorcycle/bicycle related trick... used compressed air to remove hand grips; just blow between the bar and grip and it'll slip right off every time.

Also works for putting them on.

s14unimog · 06-25-2010, 09:16 AM

Sure does, but usually not needed.

sirfallsalot243 · 06-25-2010, 09:42 AM

My motorcycle bars have grooves in them to hold the grip- also prevents it from sliding on easily. Some people use spray glue, so when its wet theyll slide on and then it dries and holds them on. I find that it just makes a mess. So I slide em on with the help of a bit of air, and use no adhesive.

If youre ever stuck using a scissor jack... pop a socket over the little loop that youre supposed to turn, and hit that bitch with an impact. Beats the shit out of cranking it up for 45 mins. Ive done many motor swaps with the only jack available being a scissor jack... this was a lifesaver.

*DALAZ_68* · 06-25-2010, 10:56 AM

buy a label maker for after market wiring marking...and put labels every foot or 1'1/2''... itll save you having to go back and fourth or having someoen to tug on the wires and yell out which is which...lol

DeatschWerks · 06-25-2010, 12:22 PM

If you are doing a full brake system flush, flip the brake fluid bottle upside-down in the reservoir so you don't have to keep checking the fluid level while you bleed.

Bigsyke · 06-25-2010, 06:56 PM

Best trick ive ever learned in my life was gravity bleeding. I have a vacuum pump, speed bleeders, but I tossed all of that for the OE fittings. I could completely drain the fluid, and fully bleed them all by simply loosening the bleeders slightly and letting them bleed.

I keep an eye on the fluid level, and refill after I use up a whole bottle of Valvoline blue. Works perfectly on all my cars, plus you dont even need to jack the car up for it.

Marcus · 06-25-2010, 09:25 PM

if you dont have a spark plug socket, or lost the rubber thing inside::
use a small 1/4inch tube. slip it over the tip, use it to start threading the plugs.

if you cant break your crank pulley nut loose:::
put the socket and a breaker bar on it, let it rest on the ground.
quickly turn key to start then off immediately. itll break that shit loose

Mitsubayati · 06-25-2010, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtfdanyo

oh and the low profile jack from harbor freight should be in everyone's garage

Hell yes. That jack is sooo cheap!! 2 year warranty for $20 for any problem you might have on it even if it's your fault. Just bring it in and get a new one.

Harbor Freight is my tool source. I only buy their tools that have a lifetime warranty. They break, you bring them back in and get new ones on the spot. Those tools are cheap yet are pretty good quality.

Zip ties will fix almost anything non-mechanical (body kits, headlights, etc.)

The ball on the driver and passenger sides before the rear wheel well is a perfect jacking point.

Don't get frustrated when an interior trim piece isn't budging. Chances are you missed a bolt or just are not pulling from the right area. Walk away and come back otherwise you might just crack/break the piece.

beavis360 · 06-25-2010, 10:30 PM

Use the spark plug wire to remove the spark plugs if you don't have the rubber socket insert.

To run my A-pillar gauge wires I folded a piece of electrical tape back on itself, slid it through the slit of the dash and the A-pillar. Then I used that piece of tape to bring the wire up.

or

Enter the wire from the top, then tie it to itself creating a loop. Feed the loop up through the dash and a-pillar slit then untape and enjoy.

Also, tape your connectors so they don't snag and make you cry as you route them.

mike[pistonless] · 06-25-2010, 11:23 PM

i like using handsoap for the exhaust hangers, works so much better than wd40

06-23-2010, 01:14 PM	#67
s13silvia123 Post Whore! Join Date: May 2006 Location: where waldo is Age: 39 Posts: 3,256 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	i made my own little table for head work especially when installing or taking out valve springs plus porting and polishing work. its made of wood __________________ 18g and 20g turbo users click on me http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/261219-18g-20g-turbo-users.html

06-24-2010, 11:40 AM	#71
babyjesus Zilvia Addict Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: moreno valley Posts: 716 Trader Rating: (14) Feedback Score: 14 reviews	gearwrench or any other ratcheting wrench, these things are the greatest!!! also, buy gearwrench brand over craftsman, they have the same lifetime warranty at sears and they're like 1/2 the price and better quality...i worked at sears for 5 years, they're amazing, AND at least once a month they go on sale for like 50% off!!! get on it! __________________ thelittlebigblock.blogspot.com

06-24-2010, 06:44 PM	#75
undesiredshoe Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Wisco Age: 32 Posts: 787 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Buy or make this tool for removing exhaust hangers. Charge your frustrated friends money or beer to borrow this tool when they try to install their ebay exhaust. __________________ My shoe is undesired

06-24-2010, 07:54 PM	#77
DJPimpFlex Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Age: 35 Posts: 6,151 Trader Rating: (115) Rides Gallery: DJPimpFlex Feedback Score: 115 reviews	When your reinstalling the transmission don't bother putting the top 2 bolts of the bell housing back on. If its good enough for Nascar its good enough for your little S13. __________________

06-24-2010, 08:24 PM	#78
J40sx Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Santa ana Posts: 515 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	For S13 chassis: Use black duct tape to redo or add pinstripes on your car, make sure you leave extra tape on the ends because they shrink in the heat. Also make sure the lines are straight or else they will look ghetto. __________________ dying is only living, dying to live

06-22-2010, 07:54 PM	#62
rowley65flip Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: indiana Age: 31 Posts: 182 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	If you spray alittle hair spray on your intercooler couplers they slide on easier and it helps to keep from from blowing off.

06-23-2010, 12:41 AM	#64
unreal- Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Central NJ Posts: 516 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Awesome thread. i have a few of my own from many days and nights spent cursing and scuffing my knuckles - Got a stubborn bolt and dont have impact tools? Tap the wrench/rachet you are using to loosen the bolt with a hammer. Ive gotten really tough bolts out that way. Works the same way as an impact gun. - Freeze off is better than holy water. that has replaced the PB blaster in my toolbox. - When doing caliper work, zip ties are your friend. - *TIME SAVER* If you are doing a multi-step job, and one step is a PITA (ie. knock sensor) just do that PITA step FIRST, and do the easy ones later. It sucks running out of daylight, when you still have the pita part of the job to do.

06-23-2010, 08:51 AM	#66
datboibrad Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: tx Posts: 636 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	sweet thread. a recent trick i found to remove flywheel bolts without an impact. install a bolt into one of the transmission holes on the block. lay a pickle fork or large screw driver over the bolt and lodge it into the teeth of the flywheel. use your breaker on the flywheel bolt obviously and pop it loose. another version that works i used on a 1j the other day was to bolt a 14mm wrench down to the transmission bolt hole and put a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel and pop the flywheel bolts loose that way. im used to working alone so i rarely have that buddy to help fight against a bolt

06-23-2010, 05:09 PM	#70
xs042lol BANNED Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: shitcago Age: 31 Posts: 46 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	when trying to figure out the length of hard lines, or any type of line in your car, like vacuum ones that are still on grab a shoe lace and use that, or use some thick string (so it doesnt break if you need to pull it hard) and then trace it and measure the lenght. i needed that for hard lines yesterday

06-24-2010, 11:48 AM	#72
sirfallsalot243 BANNED Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Doylestown, PA Age: 33 Posts: 468 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Dont buy anything from Megan Racing.

06-24-2010, 05:55 PM	#74
Perfect Balance Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Age: 30 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	For transmission bolts, instead of trying to get your wrench/hands up there in those tight spaces to get to the bolts, just put together a bunch of extensions and a universal joint and just feed it up from the drive shaft area. You can usually get to all the bolts easily this way and just chill out on your back (if you're working on the floor) while you do it. Also, the hood mod/remove your hood when doing anything on the engine. So much more space.

06-25-2010, 09:16 AM	#82
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Sure does, but usually not needed. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

06-25-2010, 09:42 AM	#83
sirfallsalot243 BANNED Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Doylestown, PA Age: 33 Posts: 468 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	My motorcycle bars have grooves in them to hold the grip- also prevents it from sliding on easily. Some people use spray glue, so when its wet theyll slide on and then it dries and holds them on. I find that it just makes a mess. So I slide em on with the help of a bit of air, and use no adhesive. If youre ever stuck using a scissor jack... pop a socket over the little loop that youre supposed to turn, and hit that bitch with an impact. Beats the shit out of cranking it up for 45 mins. Ive done many motor swaps with the only jack available being a scissor jack... this was a lifesaver.

06-25-2010, 10:56 AM	#84
DALAZ_68 not giving a fuck Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Los angeles Age: 35 Posts: 15,080 Trader Rating: (104) Feedback Score: 104 reviews	buy a label maker for after market wiring marking...and put labels every foot or 1'1/2''... itll save you having to go back and fourth or having someoen to tug on the wires and yell out which is which...lol __________________ LOL 240... whats better than 1? 5 1's ...lol PSN & XBL GT : Wh0pp3r68 CLUB LEXUS : Wh0pp3r

06-25-2010, 12:22 PM	#85
DeatschWerks Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: OK Posts: 279 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	If you are doing a full brake system flush, flip the brake fluid bottle upside-down in the reservoir so you don't have to keep checking the fluid level while you bleed. __________________ Chris @ DeatschWerks.com Fueling Your Passion for Performance!

06-25-2010, 06:56 PM	#86
Bigsyke Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: NA Age: 36 Posts: 1,342 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Best trick ive ever learned in my life was gravity bleeding. I have a vacuum pump, speed bleeders, but I tossed all of that for the OE fittings. I could completely drain the fluid, and fully bleed them all by simply loosening the bleeders slightly and letting them bleed. I keep an eye on the fluid level, and refill after I use up a whole bottle of Valvoline blue. Works perfectly on all my cars, plus you dont even need to jack the car up for it.

06-25-2010, 09:25 PM	#87
Marcus Nissanaholic! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Diego Age: 33 Posts: 2,065 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	if you dont have a spark plug socket, or lost the rubber thing inside:: use a small 1/4inch tube. slip it over the tip, use it to start threading the plugs. if you cant break your crank pulley nut loose::: put the socket and a breaker bar on it, let it rest on the ground. quickly turn key to start then off immediately. itll break that shit loose

06-25-2010, 10:30 PM	#89
beavis360 Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Delaware Posts: 186 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Use the spark plug wire to remove the spark plugs if you don't have the rubber socket insert. To run my A-pillar gauge wires I folded a piece of electrical tape back on itself, slid it through the slit of the dash and the A-pillar. Then I used that piece of tape to bring the wire up. or Enter the wire from the top, then tie it to itself creating a loop. Feed the loop up through the dash and a-pillar slit then untape and enjoy. Also, tape your connectors so they don't snag and make you cry as you route them.

06-25-2010, 11:23 PM	#90
mike[pistonless] Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: riverside Posts: 114 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	i like using handsoap for the exhaust hangers, works so much better than wd40 __________________ 88 VR RX7 97 BG e36 m3

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