SMIC Intercooler installed, one question, many possible answers... - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

*handinpants* · 03-11-2008, 01:05 AM

so its done and I have the FMIC finally installed, and it was a huge pain in the ass to fit bumper back on, but more on to my question, from the stock cold pipe, there is a nipple, that connects a vaccuumline to a wastegate actuator, or in my case, the boost controller solinoid (sp), not that i have done the install i have this vaccuum line that has no nipple to latch onto. where do i put it, what do i do with it. I know that my Boost controller will not work properly with that not connected.

-steve

SoguRacing · 03-11-2008, 01:15 AM

you need to intercept a vacuum source before the throttle body. try the nipple under the throttle body. that should work and intercept it with the boost controller solenoid then continue to the wastegate actuator.

*downshift_sideways* · 03-11-2008, 03:22 AM

Weld a nipple onto your fmic piping, and run the vacuum line to your actuator or your boost controller.

Takes 5 mins if you have the quipment. If not go to your local weld/machine shop, and they can take care of it for you for $5-30

g6civcx · 03-11-2008, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoguRacing

you need to intercept a vacuum source before the throttle body.

This part is true. The wastegate and boost controller needs to know how much boost is being sent to the throttle body.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoguRacing

try the nipple under the throttle body. that should work and intercept it with the boost controller solenoid then continue to the wastegate actuator.

I'm not sure I would use the TB nipple. These have different functions, like BOV, FPR, charcoal canister, etc., and should be plugged if not in use.

Quote:

Originally Posted by downshift_sideways

Weld a nipple onto your fmic piping, and run the vacuum line to your actuator or your boost controller.

Takes 5 mins if you have the quipment. If not go to your local weld/machine shop, and they can take care of it for you for $5-30

I like this idea better. It's best to tap the cold pipe as close to the TB as possible so you have an accurate boost reading.

Silvia_S13 · 03-11-2008, 01:46 PM

g6civic, the nipple under the throttle body is PRE-INTAKE MANIFOLD which is perfect for a wastegate actuator. in fact its the one i use on my sr and have been using it for the past 3 years. you can use any vac source as well but the wastegate only requires positive pressure to operate, and the nipple under the throttle body is positive pressure only since its pre-intake manifold. nothing before the throttle body see's vaccume.

bov/fpr/charcoal canister use vac source. but u dont need a charcoal canister on sr20's anyway lol. so i used the big fat vac source above the throttle body for bov, skinny source above throttle body for fpr, then the small one under throttle body for wastegate.

i ran into ur same problem when doing my fmic, and this solution has worked fine for years. no xtra welding needed

g6civcx · 03-11-2008, 02:48 PM

It may work. I never said it wouldn't.

If it makes you happy then do it, but for something as important as the wastegate I would like to do a better job than using the evap port.

*downshift_sideways* · 03-11-2008, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silvia_S13

g6civic, the nipple under the throttle body is PRE-INTAKE MANIFOLD which is perfect for a wastegate actuator. in fact its the one i use on my sr and have been using it for the past 3 years. you can use any vac source as well but the wastegate only requires positive pressure to operate, and the nipple under the throttle body is positive pressure only since its pre-intake manifold. nothing before the throttle body see's vaccume.

bov/fpr/charcoal canister use vac source. but u dont need a charcoal canister on sr20's anyway lol. so i used the big fat vac source above the throttle body for bov, skinny source above throttle body for fpr, then the small one under throttle body for wastegate.

i ran into ur same problem when doing my fmic, and this solution has worked fine for years. no xtra welding needed

This is true.

but...When using a manual boost controller or electric. You would want to tap in a line closest to the wastegate actuator (charge side). what this process does it bleed off air to lag your wastegate actuator to stay open allowing more boost.

The reason why you would want to tap a line closest to the actuator is because it regulates and monitors boost more accurately.

03-11-2008, 01:05 AM	#1
handinpants FreshColdBeer.com Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: California Age: 38 Posts: 2,665 Trader Rating: (48) Rides Gallery: handinpants Feedback Score: 48 reviews	FMIC Intercooler installed, one question, many possible answers... so its done and I have the FMIC finally installed, and it was a huge pain in the ass to fit bumper back on, but more on to my question, from the stock cold pipe, there is a nipple, that connects a vaccuumline to a wastegate actuator, or in my case, the boost controller solinoid (sp), not that i have done the install i have this vaccuum line that has no nipple to latch onto. where do i put it, what do i do with it. I know that my Boost controller will not work properly with that not connected. -steve

03-11-2008, 01:15 AM	#2
SoguRacing Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: (714) Age: 35 Posts: 2,967 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: SoguRacing Feedback Score: 23 reviews	you need to intercept a vacuum source before the throttle body. try the nipple under the throttle body. that should work and intercept it with the boost controller solenoid then continue to the wastegate actuator. __________________ Pre Tune Checkup! Compression,LeakDown,Vacuum Test $80. Cams Install: $180

03-11-2008, 03:22 AM	#3
downshift_sideways No Limit Soldier. Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hayward CA, San Gabriel CA Age: 34 Posts: 5,550 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: downshift_sideways Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Weld a nipple onto your fmic piping, and run the vacuum line to your actuator or your boost controller. Takes 5 mins if you have the quipment. If not go to your local weld/machine shop, and they can take care of it for you for $5-30 __________________ allntrlundrgrnd: "you never really appreciate your parents fridge until you look into your own and its full of condiments only"

03-11-2008, 01:46 PM	#5
Silvia_S13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: SD Age: 35 Posts: 331 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	g6civic, the nipple under the throttle body is PRE-INTAKE MANIFOLD which is perfect for a wastegate actuator. in fact its the one i use on my sr and have been using it for the past 3 years. you can use any vac source as well but the wastegate only requires positive pressure to operate, and the nipple under the throttle body is positive pressure only since its pre-intake manifold. nothing before the throttle body see's vaccume. bov/fpr/charcoal canister use vac source. but u dont need a charcoal canister on sr20's anyway lol. so i used the big fat vac source above the throttle body for bov, skinny source above throttle body for fpr, then the small one under throttle body for wastegate. i ran into ur same problem when doing my fmic, and this solution has worked fine for years. no xtra welding needed __________________ sddrift.com - smirkis - poweredbymax.net

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03-11-2008, 02:48 PM	#6
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	It may work. I never said it wouldn't. If it makes you happy then do it, but for something as important as the wastegate I would like to do a better job than using the evap port.