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11-10-2006, 10:27 AM | #1 |
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GT2871 USERS. SR motor
OK. Ive been doing alot of research lately and the results have been dissapointing to me. I have yet to find a dyno sheet of a .86 owner making 400 +whp, but I have seen a few .64 owners making such numbers. I was under the impression that you dont need cams on the .86 to reach 400, and that 460whp was possible. Even more disturbing was the fact that motors using .64 exhaust housings made more power on similar boost than motors on .86 GT2871's.
So, if you have a .86 or .64 A/R GT2871R please post a dyno sheet with mods, or your numbers, espescially for those in the 400whp range. If anyone can make sense of my findings please feel free to explain what you know. OB |
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11-10-2006, 11:00 AM | #3 |
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s14 on the dyno and spec
s14 zenki/s13 sr20det (stock internals)/GT2871R turbo/z32 mafs/550cc injectors/adjustable FPR/Fuel Pressure gauge/SAFC/wideband O2 on the dynojet putting down 325rwhp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHllxSOwiXE
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11-10-2006, 11:52 AM | #6 |
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friends car: .64ar with 256/256 tomeis, escort manifold, boosted 1.5bar yielded 380whp/360tq. that should give you an idea. play with the cams. how much u wanna boost?
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11-10-2006, 11:54 AM | #7 |
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I just dyno'd mine. The car was tuned at HKS USA on 91 octane pump gas (since that's what it will be running most of the time) and at 16.9 lbs of boost (1.15 bar). They had to limit it there since the b/c started spiking. Here is the graph:
GT-RS is ismilar to 2871r .64. The motor has the following mods: • S14 SR20DET • Apex N1 exhaust • CP Pistons (86.5mm Bore, 8.5:1 CR) • Eagle H-Beam Rods • Apex 1.1mm head gasket • ARP head studs • ARP exhaust manifold studs • Blitz Stainless Steel downpipe • Blitz SBC iColor Boost Controller (With wideband a/f and water temperature gauge) • Exedy Hyper Single clutch • Kazama Stainless Steel 80mm test pipe • Greddy valve springs • Greddy rocker arm stoppers • Greddy intake manifold • Greddy racing suction metal intake pipe • Crower titanium valve retainers • Greddy S14 hotpipe • Greddy RSPL HG FMIC • Megan Racing Turbo Extension • HKS GT-RS turbo • HKS 256/264 step 1 cams • HKS stainless exhaust manifold • HKS FCon VPro • HKS Universal Power Flow filter • HKS mechanical boost gauge • HKS SSQV Blow off valve kit • SARD adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fitting • Tomei/NISMO 740cc injectors • Tomei fuel pump • Tomei 70mm Throttle Body These turbos are designed for RESPONSE. Their efficiency levels off at around 19-20lbs. While it is possible to get 400 on these turbos I'd recommend a bigger turbo at lower boost. |
11-10-2006, 11:56 AM | #8 |
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Well he made 275 rwhp at 1 BAR, so probably like 1.4 BAR, or around 20psi?
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11-10-2006, 12:11 PM | #9 |
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Friends car with PFC when tuned made 375whp, stock bottom end. some headwork, 264 cams, tubular turbo mani, .86 housing, 15psi. I think it was on 100octane though. But still good power for very low boost.
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11-10-2006, 12:55 PM | #11 |
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cFinch used a .86 GT2871 on his 400whp Sr20 I think, try and dig up that thread. Everyone I know that has hit the 400 number has been using the .86 turbo, because the .64 levels off as you get close to redline. To add to that, every SINGLE person I know that has hit 400whp with a 2871 ends up getting a bigger turbo, like the GT3071 or T3/T4. It just doesnt pay off to run those types of boost numbers with that small a turbo.
Like USDM silvia said with the GT-RS (which is almost identical to the 2871 .64 BTW), those turbos are about hitting 350whp or so safely and with great response ~ if you want great response and 400whp, build the bottom end and put a lil n20 on it
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11-10-2006, 01:25 PM | #12 |
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there's a thread on FA right now where 3 people came forward with 400ish whp on .64's. cams, obviously. stock exhaust mani on at least one.
not sure about the .86. i haven't paid much attention to that turbo because it is too much for what i want = 375ish. i think matt vass was going either .86 or 3071, can't remember. |
11-10-2006, 01:40 PM | #13 |
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Most people opted for the smaller trim. I made 310whp @1.2 bar on 91 octane with a boost leak in my coupling that i didnt find till a week later. From my impression, it all depends on the tuning setup too. Ive seen people make 400 running power fcs. Check out Scott Avoys *enthalpy* and i know he got dyno sheets posted up in there that can give you ideas. Its possible to hit 400whp with it but not a whole lot can. If you want to make more power than that, id suggest going top mount and going T3 flanged turbo.
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11-10-2006, 02:04 PM | #15 |
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with a .64, cams, injectors, enthalapy ECU, greddy intake man.. stock bottom.. although i had a big headgasket.. compression probably dropped to 8.1 i made 350whp at 19psi.. response on the car was great.. kicks in at very low RPM and felt great! excellent in my opinion for a daily driver..
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11-10-2006, 02:26 PM | #16 |
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Most of the dyno sheets Ive been reading are from Enthalpy. Torque seems to be kinda low on both .86 or .64. I remember reading that 460hp was possible, but Iver never seen any such numbers. The closest Ive seen was 427hp on a S14 for sale here. He didnt list if he had cams or not. Just said Z32 MAF, JWT ECU, 740's.
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11-10-2006, 02:47 PM | #17 |
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Looks like the S3 cams work really well with the .64 A/R version of the GT2871R.
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11-10-2006, 02:47 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
I would have to agree. If you are going for 350-400whp run the .64 even if you dont quite hit your hp goal the response more than makes up for it. Responsive turbo cars are 1000times more fun to drive than laggy ones. If you are looking for over 400whp go with a top mount t3 flanged turbo or a gt30+ |
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11-10-2006, 02:55 PM | #19 | |
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True, but where does that leave the .86 2871? Anyone want a free turbo? LOL |
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11-23-2006, 02:31 PM | #21 | |||
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Anywho, as some have said, it is achievable to reach 400 whp (and more) with a 2871r .64. I've got a stock bottom end redtop, running an 2871r .64 (extrude honed turbine side) and a stock (extruded and swaind) turbo manifold. Simple parts that work with each other will always produce great results. All to often on these forums do we see mismatched cars that don't make the power they should (top end cams with small turbos, $1000 manifolds with $200 turbos etc etc) My setup is pretty simple, and everything on the setup is designed to work in a way that creates maximum response and ultimate midrange torque. I take part in/compete in HPDE events, so I wasn't looking for some big power monster, as they are slow on the track, and not fun on the street. (Whats the point in roll racing from 60-120??) I'm a fan of being quick and having an all around animal of a car. Mods: Jim Wolf Technologies ECU Cobra MAF Mototron 60lbs Injectors 2871r .64 (extruded) OEM turbo manifold (Extruded and swained) Jim Wolf S3 Cams Greddy o2 outlet 3" Downpipe 3" ExMag exhaust Greddy Intake manifold. Greddy FMIC setup. Now this setup 'hopefully' will be making more power in the spring. I'm going to datalog my car, to send back out to JWT for a reflash and to have my water injection map tuned (for track days). Here's the car: Here's the Dyno Video (the speedo shot was done at 12 psi creeping to full....I will make another video of a speedo shot at a full 20 psi): Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDbB0b3xhHs Download it here: http://govanman.com/ACEatthedyno.wmv Here's the dyno: @20 psi
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11-23-2006, 03:47 PM | #23 |
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wow codyace... that's an EXCELLENT setup. I agree that response and mid range is what makes these cars fun, and for your setup to hit 400whp is outstanding... and without standalone management! My hat's off to you ~
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11-23-2006, 04:11 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
The setup is based (in my mind) in a maximum 'minimilist' setup. I love trying to extra the most out of the smallest setup. Hitting 400 hp would have been simple with a topmount and gt35r, but I'd rather have 400 hp on a quick spooling GT28 based turbo (Not to say a big top mount turbo isn't fun...because they certainly are, just in a very different way) I've been told that the car should be capable of a low 12 second pass on streets, and mid to low 11's on slicks. To think my setup wasn't even BASED around the dragstrip too While the dyno shows peak boost to start at 4100, I do achieve full spoool (20psi) at around 3750/3850 on the streets (I actually can make 10 psi around 3100/3200 rpm). I at one debated using a disco potato, but decided that I'd loose a 300 rpm in spool for a much greater top end. To be quite honest, I would have been completly content with 300/320 whp. I typically drive daily with the EBC off, or at 15 psi...and even then it's plenty of power
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11-23-2006, 04:15 PM | #25 | |
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11-23-2006, 05:05 PM | #27 | |
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Now, if I decided that I'm gonna raise hell, lets just it's comparable to a v8 hehe
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11-23-2006, 08:01 PM | #28 |
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A Few of the AZ guys running 350 to the wheels on 100 oct get high 20's on gas mileage and one with the 86 trim hits 404 to the wheels and doesnt have a whole lot done to it.
Its all about the tune and correct installation of the products. Most of the guys have atleast 5 maps for different levels of boost and octane to help achieve safety/performance/economy in their cars. Who am I talking about? Champa,George,Blair,Justin. Justin has the fullrace silver s13 coupe, you may have seen some pics of him around (IE picture sucks thread) Honestly responce > power goal... its how you use the power that counts. I aim for 300whp on a GT2535.. now that will be fun
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11-24-2006, 10:31 AM | #29 | |||
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11-24-2006, 05:03 PM | #30 |
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codyace : for 350 they run it just because they have it avaliable... the maps are set on some of them for 91 and those have dyno-ed at 350 but when they feel like it they run 100 for fun or at events that they will run harder and usually during the summer as well with the heat out here.
the two cars that do run more than two maps do it so they have one for 91 with low boost, 91 with high boost, 100 with low boost, 100 with high boost. one guy (george) is known as the guy with the holly sr because never has it ran like crap or blown... it runs like a champ at all times lol lucky fuck.
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