thegentlemen

i just recently pulled my intake manifold off to get to the oil filter plate to replace the two seals on the plate. While the car was down i decided to also go ahead and swap out my t25 for a t28 that i had just purchased. I just got it all put back together today, so before i actually started the car i thought it would be a good idea to prime the turbo so its not a "dry" start up. So i disconnected the injectors and cranked the motor over, it turned over about 6 times and stopped. when it stopped i had nothing at all no interior power or anything. Ended up it blew the 100 amp anl inline fuse i installed when i relocated the battery a few months ago, i replaced it and when i tried starting the car it blew immediatley. I checked the battery connections and the two ground wires that bolt to the intake manifold and thety are all tight.

Im just looking for a few other ideas as to what it could be or what else i could check. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

fliprayzin240sx

I'd check around the alternator, thats what usually blow your main fuse.

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rcdad123

sounds like the starter is pulling more than 100 amps when you crank it. check the wires that go to the starter. if there is nothing wrong with the wires, check both of the battery wires. make sure everything is tight. check all the ground wires too. make sure the starter signal wire is not shorting out to ground while the key is on start. finally, check the starter, it might be going bad.

freeagent3117

When you use the starter for longer then the usual amount of time it draws more amps. I rock a 200 amp fuse and works for me. Id try a 150 first tho.

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thegentlemen

checked all the alternator connections and non of them were loose, i even pulled them and wiped them off to make sure there wasnt anything hindering contect since i had used brake cleaner on that entire side of the motor cleaning off old oil and debris
i did the same with the starter, pulled the connections and made sure that they were getting good contact and that they were tight, both battery wires are tight as well as all the ground wires. Although i am wondering if for some odd reason the starter just decided to go bad at that moment and time, and thats whats popping the fuses when i try to start it.

yeah im going to get some more fuses today and i may get a 200amp fuse to try it and see if it works. only problem i have with that is the 100amp i had before worked perfectly fine up until now.

Darren

This... and the fact that you've got the battery at the back and going through a longer, probably 4GA or bigger cable...

Put a 100 back in it and forget about it... this should only happen if you're cranking over the starter a lot.... it's better to have a smaller fuse for normal operation... don't want the car burning down

Croustibat

That is quite normal, your starter draws much more than 100amps when starting to rotate. It should be around 140-150A.

I would be more worried about something else : why does it NOT blow each time you try to start the car ? It should. Every time.

The reason nissan did not put a breaker for the ignition wire is just that simple, you cant really use one.

thegentlemen

I decided today to install a breaker instead of having the fuse, do to each fuse costing 5$ a piece. But tonight I'll be double checking all my grounds and putting the battery on the charger for a bit since it seemed pretty dead

Dorifto Machine

Smart Idea. Ive been down the same road when I did my battery relocation.
Spent couple $$ on fuses, ended up getting a breaker switch and love it! Will help you while you track down the problem. Mine ended up being a short due to a bolt that was holding the power distrubutor ( slightly touching the block but was also grounding the chassis.

Good luck.

thegentlemen

Update:charged the battery and decided to put a piece of metal where the fuse should go and it fired right up. Drove it around for a few miles and everything seems to be fine. Not sure why it was popping the fuses but I'm hoping with the higher amp breaker it works fine

Also, I replaced those damn oil seals that are on the inside of the oil filter plate in hopes of eliminating a oil leak, but it seems there is still a leak coming from that same area again. If anybody has any experience or input regarding that leak, it would be greatly appreciated guys, thankyou

Croustibat

On CA engines, there is the oem oil pressure switch near that. It can leak. You could check that.