JaredP

can't wait for the rear knuckles to be out. once i get those, and everything else i plan on getting this year, no more rubber bushings in my suspension

DJPimpFlex

I already paid for mine and the steering rack bushings as well. No more over-centering and or bushings on my car!

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ch1873857

sheit.. ive gotten used to waiting on PBM parts. been waiting on flcas since november. be here next month, hopefully.

GripTerror

sickness full of win

DJPimpFlex

Those are serious business. Took forever to get them and once I got them took even longer to get there right but they are the business.

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ch1873857

very nice. however seeing some other options in this thread has me thinking. i was highly impressed with all of the other PBM parts i own (subframe risers, rlca,toe,traction,ruca) so im rather torn with the subject. im running stock flcas and knuckles my first event this season so it will be good to compare.

on a side note. i would suggest flipping the bolt that the tension rod connects to the lca. you have it so the nut is on top. in the chance that nut comes loose, the bolt will drop out the bottom and the whole assembly will fail. if the bolt goes through the top with nut on the bottom and the nut comes loose the bolt will still stay there. will cause instability but it will at least give you some warning. better to lose a nut that lose a whole front corner.. my 2 cents.

DJPimpFlex

Probably a good idea. I gotta tear it all down again anyway soon. I've already had the whole front go once before lol.

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JaredP

pimpflex, what took you so long to get them right?

DJPimpFlex

Mostly it was getting all the correct pieces for them from PBM. They totally took care of me but they sent me the wrong thing twice. Once I got all that taken care of it was dialing in the front track for maximum clearance.

I started with stock S13 LCA length and was rubbing hard on the sway bar. I extended the LCA's about 1.25" from stock and took out my spacers and I got another 10° of angle out of just that and some hammering. I also am running as low of caster as possible to help with overcentering. It's pretty good now but once I get the steering rack bushings it should be butter.

Idealy I want to run my top mounts as caster and adjust my camber at my LCA's but I need to probably get smaller wheels in the front to make that work and have full angle.

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ch1873857

the adjustability is really awesome. do you have the rears too? it was nice making my rear track wider. slight adjustments made a big difference. with my dual rear caliper bracket and my rear lower control arm extended about .5-.75 inches it made my 17x9.5 +25 wheels fit flush under my origin 30mm overs.. i could use a 5-7mm spacer for maximum flushness but im stoked about it

pimpflex.. with that much wider in the front what did you do about tie rods? running knuckles too?? your info would help me out greatly for when mine come in.

DJPimpFlex

PBM pro knuckles and ikea formula inner tie rods. They are super long so they work really well.

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s13 loverr

ground control coils

I don't know how to upload pictures, but does anybody have info on these coils? They look a lot like option zero's custom setup. I wanted to know if anyone had experience with them.

ch1873857

no personal experience but a lot of german cars run them and ive seen many good review for them. they look a little pricey though. you may be able to find osmething better or same quality for cheaper..

e1_griego

It's yellows in back and 8610s in front.

Options' setup shows how to piece together the custom housings with 86xx front and rear.

JaredP

can the pbm rlca's go shorter than stock rlca's? would be easier to squeeze my 13's under the back of the car if i can.

also, does anyone know how much wider the rear is than the front in an s13?

dillyumpshous

2011 Parts shop MAX PRO multilink - RLCA - Rear Lower Control Arms

~ lifetime manufacturers defect warranty
~ 4 Year free pillowball replacement
~ All steel tubular construction
~ Teflon lined spherical bearings
~ Forged Clamping rod end receiver
~ Forged Clamping lock nut makes double sure your settings never come loose
~ Forged super long rod end has the most thread overlap and more adjustability than anything on the market
~ CrMo taper rod with 5mm fine adjustment spacer
~ Low profile perimeter allows for wider wheels than the stock RLCA
~ Bell shaped high surface area pillowball side spacers reinforce subframe mount & give freedom of PB motion
~ Taper wall bearing housing for max misalignment
~ Laser cut mounting bracket
~ Copper and Gold plated finish

hope that answers your question

JaredP

low perimeter yes, im asking if they can be adjusted *shorter* as in, not stick out as far from the center (essentially narrowing the track width in the rear). not a big deal, as fibreglass overs bow out but i have some pretty ridiculous wheels. trying to balance out looking great, big wheels, and great performance. oh the lenghts we go to. appreciate it though man!

godrifttoday

would getting the driftwork front knuclkes and pbm bushing relocation and tein rods, would this setup work or Driftwork front knuckle with their tie rod relocation and tein rods? or would i need longer tie rods?

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NEED Bolt kits for your car?

prego

yeah they go in alot shorter although 10mm shorter would be as much shorter as i would go and am currently doing in my build

az_240

Any of these setups should work with driftworks...

Offset rack spacers + stock length S14 inners + stock S14 outers

or

SPL outers + stock length S14 inners

or

Ikeya inners + stock S14 outers

Also keep in mind you can't combine the eccentric rack bushings and offset rack spacers.

Shift-240

what spring rates is everyone running? might go with 10k/8k this time around.

GripTerror

I run 11kg front and 8kg rear. This is for a grip setup and i last ran 255 r comps all around and going to 295 r comps all around..

PoorMans180SX

Holy stiff batman! Stock anti-roll bars?

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BOROSUN

here it is side by side. i didn't measure but, looks like it can go 1"-.5"inch shorter than oem.

Shift-240

I'm ordering the pbm pro coils and they come with their new SLL springs. They offer 6,8,10, and 12k rates. They claim they are smoother and softer. Thought I might try new springs out. My old springs on my ksport slide controls are 8/6k I think. Can't remember. But they felt a bit to soft for my stock power at the time. I'm making about 230whp on my ka-t now. What are your opinions going from 8/6k to 10/8k? I might compete in the loanstar drift series.

DJPimpFlex

Why would you want stiffer with more power? Think of a drift car as a savage drag car that goes sideways. You need that softer rear settings for the forward bite. It lets you stay in the throttle more and win more prizes.

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Jonnie Fraz

Lol! Matt you are awesome!

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Stealth-Custom-Fab.com

PoorMans180SX

Everything I've heard says stay with 8/6 and upgrade your anti-roll bars. That's my plan at least.

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didderson

It really does feel like a good setup. I've had 8/6 PBM version 2 coils on for a year or 2 after changing from the 10/8 springs. Definitely feels great with a hicas sized rear sway bar, oem front. Maybe my noobness started to disappear or maybe it was the setup, but drifting is really EZmode now.

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Motary

How about a third option, reduce your car's weight, raise the roll center and lower the center of gravity, this way you can use softer springs.
If I were to raise my car's roll center from -175mm to 0 in front and 87mm to 100mm in the rear, the car would roll less with 6/5 springs than old RC heights and 8/6 springs