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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


View Poll Results: Best s13 tension rods on the market.
Kazama 14 8.33%
Tein 14 8.33%
Peak 12 7.14%
SPL 66 39.29%
JIC 3 1.79%
Powered by Max 42 25.00%
Cusco 9 5.36%
Others 23 13.69%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 168. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-04-2010, 11:11 PM   #61
hOngsterr
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wow, bings actually has a website up now lol,
he was selling stuff on this forum, i got a test pipe from him and now its 75 bucks! whhaaa lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:06 AM   #62
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^He's had a website for a loooong fucking time.

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Old 03-09-2010, 05:24 PM   #63
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never knew, i thought he just sold on here, and then disappeared lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:19 AM   #64
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I have been running Kazama's for almost two years daily and track. I would probably go with PBM or SPL in the future. ISIS to save money.
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:27 AM   #65
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KTS, that's what I've got. They are beefy (1" diameter rods). Everybody should post rod diameters for good comparison.

For those of you who don't know who KTS is, they are not too big here in America so don't fret. You should know of SPL though, they sell KTS coilovers and praise them.

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Old 03-18-2010, 02:59 PM   #66
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I've had Cusco's on my old car and I liked them.

I now have SPL on the way.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:59 AM   #67
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Wow, I was thinking Battle Version at first. Now it's more like either SPL or MAX lol. Any feedback on ISIS? They're right down the road from me here.
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:26 AM   #68
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Actually in this quandary right now. Battle versions were nice but after 5 years they got corroded inside bound up and eventually all the steel threads stripped themselves along with the aluminum center bodies when I tried to adjust them. Lasted pretty long, I can bet with some anti seize used years ago they would have still been going strong.

Now its between BV, PBM or SPL.

BV-cause i can get some used ones for 80 bucks

PBM-they look so good (yes looks is important on a part i rarely see ), but the in-house bearing has me wary so need to search for reviews. but all in all Dan seems to be a stand up dude. Plus its nice to support a company that supports what you like to do

SPL-99% of people like them. sounds like they could use anti seize from day one too. Rarely hear much bad. Looked into the rod end they use and found they are like 15 bucks each. not to down play what they do but wheres the huge cost come in? R&D or something



Also tossed around circuit sports--just cant talk myself into cheap just yet. although I know i can get a new Aurora rod end no problem (well except that aurora ends are like 35 bucks each which puts me into the territory of the "higher quality" pieces).
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:44 AM   #69
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Kazama all the way
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:06 PM   #70
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im gonna make a suspension brand called "beefy"
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:04 AM   #71
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^Do it, just be sure to use QA-1 or Aurora rod ends, and paint/anodize them a pretty color, and people will go apeshit for them.
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Old 05-15-2010, 04:04 AM   #72
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i have circuit sports rods, as well as traction and toe rods. the only complaint i have is that they are very rusty after less than a year. i plan on trying to get them warrantied, and i'll let everyone know how that goes.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:37 PM   #73
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My vote is for PBM.

I have had KTS ones, and they work well, pretty beffy, but their made out of really soft metal I think. I have snapped two of them so far, but those were both in crashes. I just ordered some cusco one's from UpGarage (so their used). I figure I will give these a shot and untill I am able to go through and start replacing stuff again with PBM arm's.
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Old 05-25-2010, 01:06 PM   #74
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^ KTS sounds pretty good considering it only breaks when you crash.

My vote goes for Peak (or any other brand that uses high-quality bearings). I'd rather drive my car without having to worry about how fast my parts are going to deteriorate.

Just don't do any curb hopping, and you'll be good.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:55 AM   #75
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I like the SPL with rubber bushing ends. The rods using heim joint ends eventually will wear out. Basic physics---moving parts wear out.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:58 AM   #76
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I like the SPL with rubber bushing ends. The rods using heim joint ends eventually will wear out. Basic physics---moving parts wear out.
Wait... SPL has arms with rubber ends? You mean... SPC?

What the deuce, if SPL made arms with rubber/poly ends, it is the new news to meh!
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:03 PM   #77
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I vote PBM! Work fine on my DD.
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:42 PM   #78
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lol. It seems like it's always PSM vs SPL
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:14 PM   #79
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My vote is for PBM.

I have had KTS ones, and they work well, pretty beffy, but their made out of really soft metal I think. I have snapped two of them so far, but those were both in crashes. I just ordered some cusco one's from UpGarage (so their used). I figure I will give these a shot and untill I am able to go through and start replacing stuff again with PBM arm's.
SPL is made out of aluminum, while something like PBM is made of like another alloy I believe?

So the size is to compensate for density.

I've run SPL links on almost all my cars, and never had issues of failure.

Currently I have Kazama on my s13, and though the red has turned into pink, it is still holding up fine.

Either way, I always bring a stock tension rod with me when I go to the track. Just in case.
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:10 AM   #80
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The tension rods from Driftworks are also very good.
Very strong and durable for years.



Here installed on my car (painted stelth black)

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Old 06-16-2010, 03:24 PM   #81
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SPL is made out of aluminum, while something like PBM is made of like another alloy I believe?
So the size is to compensate for density.
No sir, its 6061 T6 CNC machined aluminum billet, the aerospace industry standard. The tube is 30mm ~ 1 1/4" DIA with a 20mm thread ~ 8/10" and the solid aluminum end is 25mm ~1" DIA
The rod end is forged steel one piece loop and threads (50mm).
Teflon lined bearing w/ dust covers do not require service.

We have never had a customer that needs to replace a bearing in the more than three years we have been selling these, but if anyone somehow manages to seize the pillow ball I will take care of them, I'm here every day.

http://zilvia.net/f/suspension/29353...rs-thread.html

Any steel threads in any of these brands will rust eventually no matter how they are coated, and weather its steel on steel or steel with a dissimilar metal a little anti seize will go a long way.

Wow bings sucks, Im glad we already moved on to our fourth generation RUCA.
Thanks everyone for continuing to support innovation.
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:59 PM   #82
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Ive been trying to figure out what exactly do these do? My stock ones are shot.
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:29 AM   #83
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Fortune Auto is missing from this thread lol.

Aerospace Grade 6061 Forged Aluminum & Cryo Treated Steel
Lifetime Warranty is a plus!!!

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