TheRealSy90

Yeah if it clears on that side. If they're the "angled" type like PBM etc, then you'll also have to swap passenger side for driver side so that it's still angled properly. I have mine in front of the coilover.


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DJTTon

Anyone got a good source for JDM af stickers? I wanna buy some for my laptop and other things I care about

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Skurr Skurr

tgd89

Anyone know if an s15 HLSD will fit into an s14 abs VLSD? I can't seem to find clear cut answer.

solo_ryder

Yea it will fit into the s14 pumpkin but you will need the stub shafts (half shafts) from the s15 diff as well. Apparently the s14 stub shafts wont fit. Otherwise swap over the ring gear and keep your shims in the same order as you took them out and it should be fine. I plan on doing mine come spring. I ordered the nismo ring gear bolts as well on rhdjapan as that was the cheapest please I could find them. As far as I know the s13 and s14 doff are similar just the back cover is different and the front mounting holes look different. Here are some threads on the diff that may help you:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/tips-s15-...n-t245320.html
http://www.sr20forum.com/240sx/12359...fectively.html
http://www.sr20forum.com/240sx/12454...installed.html
http://www.sr20forum.com/240sx-s13-s...ll-thread.html

240boi115

So I've been debating going sr20 and the only thing holding me back is keeping my ac. now normally with a simple Google search I found that if I had a dual cam engine, they make mounts to keep the dual cam KA's compressor on the sr20 with a modified bracket. there is a guy on here that makes them however im looking to see if someone makes one for a single cam compressor to mount on an sr20... reason being is my ac is cold as fuck and my car is clean and id rather not source out a ton of dual cam ac parts if id just be able to find someone to make me a bracket to solve this issue. thanks guys. any help is appreciated..

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my 240 broke down..again

dorkidori_s13

you need BOTH output shafts from the S15 diff. ALL VLSD S13/S14/R200/R230 rear ends are 29 spline EXCEPT for S15 and R34 GTS-T R200 HLSDs which are 30 spline. if you have an S15 HLSD but are missing the output shafts, its basically useless!

S15 diffs will fit just fine into any S13/S14 R200 pumpkin, the only concern is the driveshaft length with ABS equipped cars (not sure if S14s had this problem). i know for a fact you can reuse the S13 ring gear bolts on an S15 HLSD (did it on mine). S14 ring gear bolts may be slightly different, but they should work (any S14 guys wanna chime in?)

also the ring gear and pinion in the S15 diff fit just fine into an R200 diff as well.

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solo_ryder

The driveshaft length shouldnt matter I would think as you are using the same pumpkin and the same pinion. The ring gear bolts on both the s13 and s14 are a 12mm thread and shank bolt BUT the holes on the s15 diff are 13mm.. Some people use bushings.. some use tape around the bolt shank... some people just put the stock bolts back in as is (they are torqued quite tight) and have had no issues or you can can buy the nismo bolts (PN - 38102-RS500) which are 12mm thread and 13mm shank. 10 bolts are needed IIRC

I bought mine here, best price I could find about 1-2 weeks shipping:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-differ...gear-bolt.html

TheRealSy90

Nobody makes a single cam compressor bracket for sr20.


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240boi115

so im screwed or have to somehow make one of my own? well darn..

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my 240 broke down..again

tgd89

Yeah I'm grabbing the s15 output shafts and the nismo bolts, using my stock RP and pumpkin. I found some conflicting info on the s14 VLSD pumpkin not working, but R200 should be R200... I'd really like to keep the ABS diff to use the speed sensor for a CD009 build.

TheRealSy90

In that case why not get a complete s15 diff that has the speed signal sensor already in the snout of it, then you don't have to worry about fitting everything and shimming the carrier etc. bolt in and go.


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LoSt180

Usually much cheaper to ship the S15 HLSD, bolts, and output shafts (and even the 3.69 ring gear) alone than it is to send the whole pumpkin.

tgd89

Yeah, that's the exact reason, getting an s15 pumpkin over here doesn't seem to be worth the cost, and I also want to keep the 4.08 RP.

Fernandoo14

Hey guys! My s14 is overheating I have a stock KA24DE. I have no idea why it's overheating. I've change thermostat(previous owner had no thermostat), radiator & checked the oil cap & oil dip stick & do not see coolant or milky residue on either. Coolant circulates through the system. My coworkers have been saying I may have a warped head. Any thoughts?

hatch4life

If you kept driving it while too hot it's probly warped, I had a bad headgasket causing my ka to overheat but couldn't see any evidence of it from oil/coolant, it was weird lol

hatch4life

Or waterpump (assuming you forgot to leave mention checking that)

rightcoastimports

+1 on water pump and make sure the clutch fan is working properly.

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95 SR Zenki | @ e_form
daily - A34 Maxima | A36 Maxima

Fernandoo14

As soon as it would over heat I would shut it off & I think I'm just going for an SR swap the motor is run down lol thanks for the help guys sorry for being such a noob

jared420sx

Has anyone installed gktech REAR knuckles on their car here before i make a new thread.
These things r horrible, nothing lines up ive been fucking with it for days and its just not cooperating. I have a couple questions regarding your setup if you have them on your car thanks!

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240boi115

my next question is, is there anyone on here that can in fact make one for me?

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my 240 broke down..again

MamangSorbetero

No, but my friends have.

I have seen in person how shit the Chinese jigs for them are. Nothing ever lines up 100% on the opposite knuckle, some are even missing support tabs and the like. He got them sent back for a new set but even the set also has problems. Some bad welds here and there.

Super sketch

mau5trap

anyone????

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MamangSorbetero

It depends on where you will hook the sensor up. Is it a temp sensor or pressure sensor?

If its an oil temp sensor, the proper way to do it is weld a bung on your lower oil pan to get the proper temperature. An easy way is to get a t-fitting adapter where your oil light switch is at by the filter. That would need a 1/8bspt to 1/8npt adapter.

Same goes for oil pressure sender. But I found putting it on a t-fitting on KA's are annoying as shit as the alternator or motor mount gets in the way.

TheRealSy90

T fitting off the pressure switch isn't that great for temperature, not much flow there.


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MamangSorbetero

I've wondered this myself but have seen others setup this way. Where do most people tap into for temperature short of welding a bung on the pan?

e1_griego

Aftermarket pans usually have an extra port. Not sure for stock pan.

I don't like any T fittings in the block, myself. Too nervous that they'll break. I run my oil pressure senders remote mounted on a piece of braided line and held in with a cushion clamp. I remove the stock dummy sender since I figure the motor is toast anyway at the point the light comes on.

mau5trap

my b, it's for the Oil pressure sensor

What about an Oil Sensor Sandwich plate, like the one I linked down below? Will it get good enough flow for pressure/temp?

http://www.frsport.com/Blitz-19234-O..._p_497815.html

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TheRealSy90

For a Pressure sensor its fine to just remove the stock pressure switch and put the sensor in it's place


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Hoffman5982

If I'm running a z32 trans w/ rb26 bellhousing on an rb25 in an s14, what does the length of the driveshaft need to be? Also, what shifter bracket do I need, or is stock the best/ only option?

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solo_ryder

Does anyone know if a greddy intake manifold on a s13sr will move the throttlebody close to where a stock s14 TB would be? trying to figure out a intercooler setup