180sx no start - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

92Blue180sx · 08-27-2018, 08:39 AM

Hello all new to the nissan S13 game. Bought this gem a few months back.180 rain.jpg
Was driving home 2 weeks ago when I lost fuel pressure and car died. Checked fuel pump fuse and relays no problems there. Anticipating that it was the pump I did order and install a Walbro 255, pulling out what I think is a fuel pump from a R32 or R33. Checked the old pump with 12v and thats not the problem.
Checked for power at fuel pump plug and only getting 300mv not 12v. I am getting 12v at the relays as well. Running out of ideas any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Need to get this pig running.

***FaLKoN240*** · 08-27-2018, 09:41 AM

Does the fuel pump prime? If not, try a diff ECU.

92Blue180sx · 08-27-2018, 09:44 AM

Fuel pump does not prime, and with the old pump if you left the ignition on run the fuel pump would continuously run. How would I go about figuring what ECU I have?

***FaLKoN240*** · 08-27-2018, 10:51 AM

Take it out of the right side kick panel. Look at it. It should have a sticker J4 or B5 or something else on it.

92Blue180sx · 08-27-2018, 12:36 PM

The ECU is marked 62. what I can only assume is a serial number reading 23710 50F00 and some other characters under A11-000 G90.

92Blue180sx · 08-27-2018, 07:32 PM

Is there anyway I can be sure that this problem is ECU related? A used 62 Nissan ECU goes for $140 but I'm looking at maybe just biting the bullet to go with an AEM Series 2 30-6601 as a long term solution for $1400. Any thoughts?

92Blue180sx · 08-27-2018, 11:49 PM

Just went through everything again to make sure I'm not going crazy.

I get 12v at the hot side for EGI and EGI Pump relays, fuse is good and getting power. Turn ignition on and don't hear or feel anything from relays(did continuity check all relays with 12v and all are working.). Still not recieving 12v at the connector topside of fuel pump assembly. Haven't come up with a good way to check continuity between connector for fuel pump and relays. Still replaced fuel pump because why not.

Car still only cranks not a noise from the fuel pump nor does it prime. Does this indeed sound like an issue with the ECU? Desperate to figure this out here, if it sounds like I am missing anything please I'm all ears.

***FaLKoN240*** · 08-28-2018, 10:27 AM

If you're in a Facebook group see if anyone locally has a 62 ECU you can test out. Otherwise, 140 bucks so you can drive the car sounds like a drop in the bucket compared to buying a $1400 ECU.

smoked240 · 08-28-2018, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FaLKoN240

If you're in a Facebook group see if anyone locally has a 62 ECU you can test out. Otherwise, 140 bucks so you can drive the car sounds like a drop in the bucket compared to buying a $1400 ECU.

$1400 plus the amount to have it professionally tuned.
dyno time is not cheap!

I wouldn't recommend a standalone until you know what you're getting into. For instance, I had to trailer my car over 4 hours one way to have it tuned by someone I can trust. I know there are dyno's closer to me but none that deal mainly with AEM and E85 which is what I'm running.

08-27-2018, 09:41 AM	#2
*FaLKoN240* Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 16,760 Trader Rating: (73) Feedback Score: 73 reviews	Does the fuel pump prime? If not, try a diff ECU. __________________ Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

08-27-2018, 10:51 AM	#4
*FaLKoN240* Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 16,760 Trader Rating: (73) Feedback Score: 73 reviews	Take it out of the right side kick panel. Look at it. It should have a sticker J4 or B5 or something else on it. __________________ Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

08-28-2018, 10:27 AM	#8
*FaLKoN240* Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 16,760 Trader Rating: (73) Feedback Score: 73 reviews	If you're in a Facebook group see if anyone locally has a 62 ECU you can test out. Otherwise, 140 bucks so you can drive the car sounds like a drop in the bucket compared to buying a $1400 ECU. __________________ Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

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08-27-2018, 09:44 AM	#3
92Blue180sx Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Florida Age: 24 Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Fuel pump does not prime, and with the old pump if you left the ignition on run the fuel pump would continuously run. How would I go about figuring what ECU I have?

08-27-2018, 12:36 PM	#5
92Blue180sx Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Florida Age: 24 Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The ECU is marked 62. what I can only assume is a serial number reading 23710 50F00 and some other characters under A11-000 G90.

08-27-2018, 07:32 PM	#6
92Blue180sx Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Florida Age: 24 Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Is there anyway I can be sure that this problem is ECU related? A used 62 Nissan ECU goes for $140 but I'm looking at maybe just biting the bullet to go with an AEM Series 2 30-6601 as a long term solution for $1400. Any thoughts?

08-27-2018, 11:49 PM	#7
92Blue180sx Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Florida Age: 24 Posts: 5 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just went through everything again to make sure I'm not going crazy. I get 12v at the hot side for EGI and EGI Pump relays, fuse is good and getting power. Turn ignition on and don't hear or feel anything from relays(did continuity check all relays with 12v and all are working.). Still not recieving 12v at the connector topside of fuel pump assembly. Haven't come up with a good way to check continuity between connector for fuel pump and relays. Still replaced fuel pump because why not. Car still only cranks not a noise from the fuel pump nor does it prime. Does this indeed sound like an issue with the ECU? Desperate to figure this out here, if it sounds like I am missing anything please I'm all ears.