Revise and rebuild I suppose... - Page 8 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

s14unimog · 09-22-2014, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cchondro

so clean. love your attention to detail! keep it up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenwood

great work, your oil cooler is upside down though.

Thanks!

This is a pretty commonly debated subject fueled by a lot of forum chatter. Before jumping straight into this, the power steering system and pump type are not like those in an oil system in the engine; there is not a sump to drain back to - not forgetting to mention there are also pressure control valves. For my setup specifically, the fluid does not have anywhere to drain back (my reservoir is actually higher than my cooler core). When installing the cooler, I actually went a step further and primed the core and lines just to start with as little air as possible.

I have never seen a legitimate reason to believe the performance is any different. It is also common place to see coolers mounted in an "upside down" position on an OE setup. Air-cooled motorcycles with external oil coolers are great examples and almost always orient them this way. Just to refute engine oil cooler setup concerns.

bataangpinoy · 09-22-2014, 05:11 PM

lovely! great attention to detail.

dubstein · 02-20-2016, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

Thanks!

This is a pretty commonly debated subject fueled by a lot of forum chatter. Before jumping straight into this, the power steering system and pump type are not like those in an oil system in the engine; there is not a sump to drain back to - not forgetting to mention there are also pressure control valves. For my setup specifically, the fluid does not have anywhere to drain back (my reservoir is actually higher than my cooler core). When installing the cooler, I actually went a step further and primed the core and lines just to start with as little air as possible.

I have never seen a legitimate reason to believe the performance is any different. It is also common place to see coolers mounted in an "upside down" position on an OE setup. Air-cooled motorcycles with external oil coolers are great examples and almost always orient them this way. Just to refute engine oil cooler setup concerns.

I believe that the orientation of both fittings on bottom creates an upside down U in the system where air can become trapped if not properly bleed. Usually industrial heat exchangers are oriented on their side with a vent valve near the upper connection to bleed off air. Air in the exchanger will greatly reduce cooling efficiently. You are right, the orientation should not mater because you have back pressure on the system. Priming the core is definitely a good idea! Awesome build! Quality work!

s14unimog · 05-31-2016, 03:03 PM

Half way through 2016 and I've got to check the time stamps on my posts just to date where I'm at with this car. I have to say, the real reason I've dropped off the (zilvia) planet is simply the s-chassis car culture these days. You either know who you are or you don't. Not sure which is better. I find it easier to just avoid it all. I've since quit attending drift events and now just use the car on weekends or take it to the track for private days with small groups.

Either the case, this thread is a chronological map to where it is today, so I feel a bit compelled to keep it up. It's been almost two years since my last post, and in risk of "don't bump such an old thread", I have to think you get a pass on a build thread. Especially this old and still around one car - an s-chassis at that.

Scrolling back a bit, I see where I left things. So what's happened since?

Well the SR is still pushing 400whp @18psi on the same bottom end. I have literately done nothing to it but change the oil. The same 20G is still in there blowing air and I don't lie when I say it gets driven. Honestly I've had more drivetrain issues than anything (leaky pinion, worn syncros, trashed pilot bearing, etc...). So here recently I've rebuilt a factory SR transmission with new bearings, syncros and seals. The main reason I did not upgrade is simple. I've never broken a gear set, I only seem to wear already tired syncros and the bearings just get loud enough to a point I pull and swap in another. So this time I just wanted to see how a newly rebuilt one would fair. Why? No reason - just curious. Here's a couple pics of that.

I need to swap that in before this track day coming up. I'm eager to see what the pilot bearing looks like this time. I ran one of those Z33 needle bearing types and I'm suspecting that it's trashed or completely gone. The car doesn't seem to appreciate an e-brake entry with the clutch in and in gear; sometimes.... It also doesn't seem to like clutch-in reving while in gear; again, sometimes. In the past, the bronze ones I've removed are always squished and elongated, but I suppose that's better than what it seems all of the needle bearing types do (from my research). Time will soon tell. As for the moment, the car drives fine, just doesn't appreciate the quick gear change or the drivetrain coming to an abrupt halt. I don't want to take it to the track like that though.

One of my more recent modifications is actually due to a new toy I got at work; a CNC router. I had some scrap ABS laying around so I decided to re do those cooling panels and finish off the opening where a grille normally sits. Doesn't really do anything, but sure looks better...

If you'll notice in the last pic, the carbon on the hood looks a little different. Well, a while back I had the hood propped open when a gust of wind blew it off the rod. The resulting flipped it back across my windshield and cracked both tips at the back end of the hood. Very upsetting. So I set out to repair the damage and once completed had a friend wrap the hood with 3M's "dry carbon" textured wrap. This solved two problems. One, you could still kind of tell that I had repaired the hood up in the corner. It wasn't terrible, but you could tell. Also, the epoxy used in this hood was yellowing as they all do. You can't polish it out since it's UV damage to the clear epoxy, not the clear coat on top. So wrapping it, which turned out to be free, was the way it went. I know I know, everyone wants me to paint the hood, but I still like it. Here's some on the repair.

For the record, I used West Systems 207 Hardener and 104 Resin. The 207 is the trick here since it's the ultra-clear finish you're after for carbon. It's clear. I reinforced the backs with a standard carbon weave. I don't have a picture of the damage but as you can imagine, it's just a cracked and bent up corner. The weird pattern you see in the epoxy is from packing tape. It's a great way to hold epoxy in a location and it will absolutely not stick to the resin.

So as you can see, it's faint but I was actually so tired of people calling it out, I just didn't even want to see it anymore. Despite how well I felt the repair went. So it got wrapped.

Dolph_KYAS13 · 05-31-2016, 08:49 PM

The one thing I miss about my old job is the CNC router

did you design and program them yourself?

s14unimog · 06-01-2016, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dolph_KYAS13

The one thing I miss about my old job is the CNC router

did you design and program them yourself?

I left a full machine/fabrication shop at my last job for "greener" pastures. I really miss that accessibility.

Yeah, I'm an ME, hobby machinist and design stuff on the daily for all types of mfg. processes. So I'm set up to knock stuff out quickly. Here's a dash I made for my brother-n-laws 510.

Dolph_KYAS13 · 06-01-2016, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

I left a full machine/fabrication shop at my last job for "greener" pastures. I really miss that accessibility.

Yeah, I'm an ME, hobby machinist and design stuff on the daily for all types of mfg. processes. So I'm set up to knock stuff out quickly. Here's a dash I made for my brother-n-laws 510.

I hear that. I'm an industrial designer turned mechanical designer. My old workplace had all the the toys one would want as a hobbiest (Production grade FDM 3d printer and 4x8' CNC router table). It was a shame the management wasnt the greatest or I'd still be there.

Hopefully someday I will get a small machine for myself. It would pay for itself really quickly.

s14unimog · 06-02-2016, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dolph_KYAS13

I hear that. I'm an industrial designer turned mechanical designer. My old workplace had all the the toys one would want as a hobbiest (Production grade FDM 3d printer and 4x8' CNC router table). It was a shame the management wasnt the greatest or I'd still be there. Hopefully someday I will get a small machine for myself. It would pay for itself really quickly.

So you have illustration skills; not something I possess

For 3D printing these days, it's easier and cheaper to just use a print house. I have a list of about 5 that are my go to for different reasons (elastometric, SLS, SLA, urethane cast, metals, etc...). It's so much more convenient to not have to service and manage the machines. Not to mention, cuts down on the need to have different types of printers and most can turn it around in a week. The router on the other hand is titties - nothing beats the value of traditional machining with CNC. The Laguna HHC I'm using ran about $7500 all said and done.

Well so with the hood fixed and the wrap on, I decided to get some other wheels and give the car a different look. I had recently sold off my Rota Grids and was looking for another set of inexpensive wheels that I wouldn't fret about swapping tires on/off so much. I ended up picking up a new set of Varrstoen ES2's in 18x9.5 +12 all around. Even though the Jlines aren't, it's really convenient running square fitment for track wheels. Varrstoen only carries that size in satin black, so I had them powder coated Aspen gloss white and so signed myself up for constant cleaning of a white wheel. Looks great when it's clean, but damn it if they don't get dirty immediately after cleaning. I need to figure out a go-to wheel coating so I'm not washing brake dust off them so much. Either the case, I think it looks fresh.

Here's them straight out of the box - I just thought the black was too blaaa...

EnvisionMore · 06-02-2016, 07:52 AM

Just read through this whole thread, great work! Gave me a lot of inspiration and ideas for my build, thank you!

Gingersmurf · 06-02-2016, 10:34 AM

Thank you guys for bumping this thread, i read through the whole thing. Wow, such an inspiration to get my car done! Fantastic work!

s14unimog · 06-02-2016, 06:35 PM

^right on guys, thanks!

05-31-2016, 03:03 PM	#214
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Half way through 2016 and I've got to check the time stamps on my posts just to date where I'm at with this car. I have to say, the real reason I've dropped off the (zilvia) planet is simply the s-chassis car culture these days. You either know who you are or you don't. Not sure which is better. I find it easier to just avoid it all. I've since quit attending drift events and now just use the car on weekends or take it to the track for private days with small groups. Either the case, this thread is a chronological map to where it is today, so I feel a bit compelled to keep it up. It's been almost two years since my last post, and in risk of "don't bump such an old thread", I have to think you get a pass on a build thread. Especially this old and still around one car - an s-chassis at that. Scrolling back a bit, I see where I left things. So what's happened since? Well the SR is still pushing 400whp @18psi on the same bottom end. I have literately done nothing to it but change the oil. The same 20G is still in there blowing air and I don't lie when I say it gets driven. Honestly I've had more drivetrain issues than anything (leaky pinion, worn syncros, trashed pilot bearing, etc...). So here recently I've rebuilt a factory SR transmission with new bearings, syncros and seals. The main reason I did not upgrade is simple. I've never broken a gear set, I only seem to wear already tired syncros and the bearings just get loud enough to a point I pull and swap in another. So this time I just wanted to see how a newly rebuilt one would fair. Why? No reason - just curious. Here's a couple pics of that. I need to swap that in before this track day coming up. I'm eager to see what the pilot bearing looks like this time. I ran one of those Z33 needle bearing types and I'm suspecting that it's trashed or completely gone. The car doesn't seem to appreciate an e-brake entry with the clutch in and in gear; sometimes.... It also doesn't seem to like clutch-in reving while in gear; again, sometimes. In the past, the bronze ones I've removed are always squished and elongated, but I suppose that's better than what it seems all of the needle bearing types do (from my research). Time will soon tell. As for the moment, the car drives fine, just doesn't appreciate the quick gear change or the drivetrain coming to an abrupt halt. I don't want to take it to the track like that though. One of my more recent modifications is actually due to a new toy I got at work; a CNC router. I had some scrap ABS laying around so I decided to re do those cooling panels and finish off the opening where a grille normally sits. Doesn't really do anything, but sure looks better... If you'll notice in the last pic, the carbon on the hood looks a little different. Well, a while back I had the hood propped open when a gust of wind blew it off the rod. The resulting flipped it back across my windshield and cracked both tips at the back end of the hood. Very upsetting. So I set out to repair the damage and once completed had a friend wrap the hood with 3M's "dry carbon" textured wrap. This solved two problems. One, you could still kind of tell that I had repaired the hood up in the corner. It wasn't terrible, but you could tell. Also, the epoxy used in this hood was yellowing as they all do. You can't polish it out since it's UV damage to the clear epoxy, not the clear coat on top. So wrapping it, which turned out to be free, was the way it went. I know I know, everyone wants me to paint the hood, but I still like it. Here's some on the repair. For the record, I used West Systems 207 Hardener and 104 Resin. The 207 is the trick here since it's the ultra-clear finish you're after for carbon. It's clear. I reinforced the backs with a standard carbon weave. I don't have a picture of the damage but as you can imagine, it's just a cracked and bent up corner. The weird pattern you see in the epoxy is from packing tape. It's a great way to hold epoxy in a location and it will absolutely not stick to the resin. So as you can see, it's faint but I was actually so tired of people calling it out, I just didn't even want to see it anymore. Despite how well I felt the repair went. So it got wrapped. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

05-31-2016, 08:49 PM	#215
Dolph_KYAS13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Canada Age: 34 Posts: 686 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The one thing I miss about my old job is the CNC router did you design and program them yourself? __________________ -Jordie Lewis '93 Skyline Type M

06-02-2016, 06:35 PM	#221
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	^right on guys, thanks! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

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06-02-2016, 07:52 AM	#219
EnvisionMore Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 61 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just read through this whole thread, great work! Gave me a lot of inspiration and ideas for my build, thank you!