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Old 06-13-2012, 06:57 PM   #1
davidg01234
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rb25 cylinder 5 bad compression

I just decided to do a compression test and I saw that all cylinders were about 150 except number 5 , it was about 75psi. I dropped oil there and it went up. BUT before I call it the rings let me also say that its smoking whitidh blue quite a bit through exhaust but there is no mixing of oil and coolant in the engine or radiator?? There is oil coming from the back of the motor around the cylinder 5&6 area. I can't tell if its coming from directly between head and block but it does kinda looks like it. Could it still be a bad hg? Could putting oil in cylinder and making the compression go up be a sign of a bad hg? Or is that only for rings?
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:15 PM   #2
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If the compression jumped after dropping oil in there, its the rings. If you dropped oil and it didnt jump, then its something else like the HG or the valves.
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:20 PM   #3
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[QUOTE=fliprayzin240sx;4746123]If the compression jumped after dropping oil in there, its the rings. If you dropped oil and it didnt jump, then its something else like the HG or the valves.[/QUO

The rings could also be the reason for the smoke? Oil getting past rings?
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:30 PM   #4
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Yup yup...
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
Yup yup...
Damn was hoping it was the hg or valve lol. So can I just put some new rings on the pistons and put them back in with new main and rod bearings? No need to overbore unless the walls are fucked right?
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:48 PM   #6
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Correcto...most of the time, if the cross hatching is still there, you dont have to re bore it. Just make sure theres no nick in the cylinder. But 75psi on 1 cylinder when everything else is at 150psi, it might even be a cracked ring land.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:53 PM   #7
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Correcto...most of the time, if the cross hatching is still there, you dont have to re bore it. Just make sure theres no nick in the cylinder. But 75psi on 1 cylinder when everything else is at 150psi, it might even be a cracked ring land.
Well the thing is that it still runs good and pulls pretty hard so I'm gonna guess its just the rings and not the Piston or walls (hopefully). If the walls need reboring, that means I can't use the OEM pistons right? I would have to buy after market ones to match the bore size correct? Please correct me if I'm wrong man lol
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:01 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by davidg01234 View Post
Well the thing is that it still runs good and pulls pretty hard so I'm gonna guess its just the rings and not the Piston or walls (hopefully). If the walls need reboring, that means I can't use the OEM pistons right? I would have to buy after market ones to match the bore size correct? Please correct me if I'm wrong man lol
Nissan do pistons in 86.5mm
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #9
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Nissan do pistons in 86.5mm
What do u mean
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:19 PM   #10
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What do u mean

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidg01234 View Post
If the walls need reboring, that means I can't use the OEM pistons right? I would have to buy after market ones to match the bore size correct? Please correct me if I'm wrong man lol
Original pistons are 86mm. .5 overbore allows you to use OEM 86.5mm pistons.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:09 PM   #11
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You did a bad compression test the 1st time around. Retest again to make sure it's ok now. Lucky you
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:13 PM   #12
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Or you did it cold the first time.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:22 PM   #13
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Or you did it cold the first time.
Ni it warmed up. But even if I did, one shouldn't be that much lower than the other
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:56 AM   #14
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Just replace em, ACL race series are good cheap insurance.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:32 AM   #15
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Just replace em, ACL race series are good cheap insurance.
I prefer OEM but my question is, CAN I reuse them if they're good
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:20 AM   #16
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You are already in there. Replace them.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:22 AM   #17
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You are already in there. Replace them.
How do I know which ones to get?
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:50 AM   #18
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Look up fsm crank specs, rent a mircometer/caliper only takes maybe. 20-30 minutes to go over it. Chances are its all original still and you need standard size.
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:55 AM   #19
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:17 AM   #20
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Awesome!! Thanks man your alot of help! Now does the angle of the gaps have to be that perfect or is it OK as long as theyre pretty eye close?
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:20 AM   #21
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No worries, judging it by eye should do fine.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:23 AM   #22
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No worries, judging it by eye should do fine.
OK thanks so much man! Everything is alot clearer now and I now know exactly what I need to do and what I need to order
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:25 AM   #23
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While you're at it you may as well get some ARP rod studs. The stockers are the weak link in the bottom end.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:14 AM   #24
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While you're at it you may as well get some ARP rod studs. The stockers are the weak link in the bottom end.
Great suggestion but no I'm keeping it all stock. Besides as long as the stocks can hold my 400bhp goal, I'm happy
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:34 AM   #25
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All the torque settings are at the end. Right before the index.
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:02 AM   #26
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All the torque settings are at the end. Right before the index.
i just decided to tighten them by feel, they dont really seem like something that requires a specific torque. thanks though man!!
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:31 AM   #27
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Mann Zilvia spoon feeding?!
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:47 PM   #28
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Mann Zilvia spoon feeding?!
lol sorry its my first time going this far into an engine
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:08 PM   #29
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Mann Zilvia spoon feeding?!
Just cuz this shit is actually techinical...not asking whether or not my damn 9j +42 wheels will fit or what's better, SR or KA-T?
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:23 PM   #30
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I've been reading up on this thread it's good stuff. I will be building a RB20 in my living room very soon.
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