*Ask Broadfield* - Page 11 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Broadfield · 05-30-2012, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inopsey

have you ever used the sludge/undercoating that is on the second skin website? is it recommended for winter use vehicles?

It's been literally 18 years since I have used it. But it's perfectly fine for winter use or ultra hot use.

Quote:

Originally Posted by inopsey

what line(s) of xrp push on fitting/lines would you recommend for coolant lines? i want something i can assemble as im installing. cost not really a factor.

They only make the one type of Push-On hose... so I'm a little confused by your question!?! With that being said the Push-On hose only goes up to -12... so not large enough for radiator hoses. Or are you calling standard AN fittings and hose "push on"?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaxshawn

What type of spray adhesive do you reccomend for the carpet, and also same question for headliner and door panels

For doing trunk/hatch carpet, sub enclosures etc. I use a product from Stinger which comes in a spray can. The part # is SAS. If you are doing the headliner or door inserts, then you need something much stronger. Which I use DAP contact adhesive that you would need to spray out of an automotive spray gun.

inopsey · 05-30-2012, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

It's been literally 18 years since I have used it. But it's perfectly fine for winter use or ultra hot use.

They only make the one type of Push-On hose... so I'm a little confused by your question!?! With that being said the Push-On hose only goes up to -12... so not large enough for radiator hoses. Or are you calling standard AN fittings and hose "push on"?

For doing trunk/hatch carpet, sub enclosures etc. I use a product from Stinger which comes in a spray can. The part # is SAS. If you are doing the headliner or door inserts, then you need something much stronger. Which I use DAP contact adhesive that you would need to spray out of an automotive spray gun.

i got confused by the catalogue; there is one type of hose but different over-hoses for finish. are there any other self/easy assembly hose setups with xrp besides the push-on?

Broadfield · 05-30-2012, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inopsey

i got confused by the catalogue; there is one type of hose but different over-hoses for finish. are there any other self/easy assembly hose setups with xrp besides the push-on?

Their Push-On hose is REALLY easy, however it only goes up to -12. So when you said you need it for your coolant lines I assume you mean for the radiator hoses!?!

Stainless lines suck to assemble... no doubt about that. But braided nylon is pretty darn easy. You would use the XR-31 hose then any of the standard AN fittings in the four various colors. Please let me know if you have any other questions or need pricing on something to get a feel how much the stuff is.

Note: all of XRP's hoses and fittings can be self assembled except for the HS-79 hose which requires the crimp sleeves to go along with the special fittings.

KoukiMonsta · 06-04-2012, 03:46 PM

Toby, what's your opinion on tack cloth?

Dont recall you mentioning it ever. As for my painting the bay project, do you recommend them for removing fine particles? I do have wax/grease remover already

Broadfield · 06-04-2012, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

Toby, what's your opinion on tack cloth?

Dont recall you mentioning it ever. As for my painting the bay project, do you recommend them for removing fine particles? I do have wax/grease remover already

Tack rag is used before base coat.

Before you start the project you want to degrease the entire bay. That way you are not rubbing in grease and what not as you are sanding. Before I spray etch primer or use filler, I use an air gun to blow off the entire bay REALLY well to get rid of any sanding dust. I really only wiped the bay down before the main primer. So basically after all of the etch primer was on and I sanded the entire bay to 320 grit. I then used Maxx Solv. Pour/spray it onto a clean lint free auto body cloth and wipe it on like you would sanding.... across the fingers. You will want to fold the cloth a couple times to form a little bit of a thicker wipe. You will then follow that up with another cloth to wipe it off. So essentially do small-ish areas at a time and do not let the Maxx Solv dry on there without wiping it off first. Otherwise if you do not wipe it off you are just smearing stuff around. Wipe on, wipe off!

Tranman324 · 06-04-2012, 06:28 PM

Hey Broadfield,

I have a question about your bulk head design.

Where did you get that aluminum disc? Was it custom made? If so, If I give you the specs could you have something similar made for me? I'm looking to do this for my 2000 Celica I'm building. I hope you don't mind that I use your design as inspiration.

Thanks!

KoukiMonsta · 06-04-2012, 09:24 PM

okay, geeze. thank you once again for the amount of time and effort you take to inform me with real secrets. Response time is the best factor for me haha.

I did some reading a few nights ago on 'wax and grease remover', 'surface remover' and things of that sort, as basically I have concluded different companies make the same products with some different names. The product is to be applied liberally, while it is wet particles/contaminants 'float' to the surface so they can be wiped away. with a clean cloth of course.

The attached image is how my car sits right this second. the plan is red scuff pad the whole thing, rattle can etch primer. and then drop motor in and finish fab stuff(ic piping, exhaust, rad...stuff) then pull motor and acutally primer and paint for real. (any flaws with my plan?)

small areas, sounds like a good plan.
I have a 20 gal compressor, and do use it to blow off dust and such regularly (it does not work REAL well, but does the job).

and my original question, tack cloth before base coat. thank you as always sir!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Tack rag is used before base coat.

Before you start the project you want to degrease the entire bay. That way you are not rubbing in grease and what not as you are sanding. Before I spray etch primer or use filler, I use an air gun to blow off the entire bay REALLY well to get rid of any sanding dust. I really only wiped the bay down before the main primer. So basically after all of the etch primer was on and I sanded the entire bay to 320 grit. I then used Maxx Solv. Pour/spray it onto a clean lint free auto body cloth and wipe it on like you would sanding.... across the fingers. You will want to fold the cloth a couple times to form a little bit of a thicker wipe. You will then follow that up with another cloth to wipe it off. So essentially do small-ish areas at a time and do not let the Maxx Solv dry on there without wiping it off first. Otherwise if you do not wipe it off you are just smearing stuff around. Wipe on, wipe off!

Broadfield · 06-04-2012, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tranman324

Hey Broadfield,

I have a question about your bulk head design.

Where did you get that aluminum disc? Was it custom made? If so, If I give you the specs could you have something similar made for me? I'm looking to do this for my 2000 Celica I'm building. I hope you don't mind that I use your design as inspiration.

Thanks!

That's just 1/2" aluminum turned on a lathe. Any of your local machine/metal shops should be able to make it for you.

Tranman324 · 06-06-2012, 08:14 PM

I've got another one for ya.

Regarding your old SR set-up, I noticed that you converted all your valve cover outlets to AN fittings. What did you do about the PCV valve?

Thanks again!

s14fbs · 06-08-2012, 03:22 PM

toby i wanna run my 53mm water temp gauge in my s14 cluster

could i remove the stock temp gauge and hole saw the hole to 53mm for the gauge and still keep my working tach and speedo and gas gauge anything esle im not worried as long as those will work and light up still.

Broadfield · 06-08-2012, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tranman324

I've got another one for ya.

Regarding your old SR set-up, I noticed that you converted all your valve cover outlets to AN fittings. What did you do about the PCV valve?

Thanks again!

I removed it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14fbs

toby i wanna run my 53mm water temp gauge in my s14 cluster

could i remove the stock temp gauge and hole saw the hole to 53mm for the gauge and still keep my working tach and speedo and gas gauge anything esle im not worried as long as those will work and light up still.

I have done modification to only one S14 cluster, so I'm not real familiar with the back of them. On top of that I completely gut the clusters I do, so I don't even pay attention to what's really there. If I remember correctly it has a large ribbon circuit board that spans the backside. So you may need to reroute some of those traces if you go cutting a hole and putting a gauge there. If you take a pic of the back, or find a pic, I can give you a better idea.

s14fbs · 06-08-2012, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I have done modification to only one S14 cluster, so I'm not real familiar with the back of them. On top of that I completely gut the clusters I do, so I don't even pay attention to what's really there. If I remember correctly it has a large ribbon circuit board that spans the backside. So you may need to reroute some of those traces if you go cutting a hole and putting a gauge there. If you take a pic of the back, or find a pic, I can give you a better idea.

sweet will do once i get it out and apart

RedSled · 06-08-2012, 10:09 PM

toby ,with regards to your sr20det valve cover ,how did you put fittings on it for the oil catch can
i believe you just drilled out the pipe that sticks out then you tapped the specific threading for your fittings , but how can you do it without scratching or damaging your valve cover
mines already painted

Broadfield · 06-09-2012, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedSled

toby ,with regards to your sr20det valve cover ,how did you put fittings on it for the oil catch can
i believe you just drilled out the pipe that sticks out then you tapped the specific threading for your fittings , but how can you do it without scratching or damaging your valve cover
mines already painted

Remove the pipe or grommet that is there then tap it out for the size you need. If the hole isn't big enough then you will obviously need to drill it out to the correct size first then tap it out with the appropriate NPT tap. This method will not mess up the finish on the valve cover. Whereas if you welded on the male AN fitting, then you would need to repaint the valve cover.

slamn240 · 06-14-2012, 03:58 AM

Honestly i do not post that much online but you are the man when it comes to simple and clean!!!! You pay attention to details which makes a car look so fn amazing. Keep up the good work, you have inspired me to take my time on my build.

K_style · 06-14-2012, 11:04 AM

What would be the best way to put gauge holders on dashboard ?
FYI I have S14.

Something like this

I tried Scotch indoor mounting tape but it's 2 years old tape so kinda lost stickiness..

Broadfield · 06-14-2012, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K_style

What would be the best way to put gauge holders on dashboard ?
FYI I have S14.

This is a post I made in the interior thread a couple months back:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

If this were my car and I just had to have the gauges mounted on top of the dashboard, then I would drill down through the dash to run the cable. Yes, you are committing to having gauges there since you will be drilling permanent holes, but it will look a lot cleaner. I would also trim the mounting feet down to make them smaller... then screw the feet to the dashboard with small black screws. At least round the corners to give them not such an edgy feel. The big square feet look out of place on a nice rounded dash. Trim, then hit them with black spray paint since the edges you grind will be bare metal.

Here is an example of how I did them on a friend's STi. I trimmed the feet then ran the cable through foot and out of sight. I used some small black screws to hold the feet down permanently.

blueshark123 · 06-22-2012, 12:19 PM

So I got around to integrating the 509U ultrasonic sensor i bought from you. It was a plug and play event with the Viper 5701 but I have something weird happening with it. To test it i rolled down the window and stuck my hand in the car. Worked perfectly but it will only trigger the alarm three consecutive times. So on the 4th attempt it will not trigger the alarm. I can see the LED on the sensor lighting up so it is detecting the movement, however, the alarm is not triggered. Once I disconnect the car battery and reconnect it, it will work again but for only three consecutive times. Is there a setting of some sorts or is this expected behavior?

Edit: Nevermind, guessing that the sensor will only allow 3 consecutive triggers in a certain time period in case there are too many false alarms, because i went back outside to test it after waiting 20 mins or so and it works again.

Broadfield · 06-23-2012, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueshark123

So I got around to integrating the 509U ultrasonic sensor i bought from you. It was a plug and play event with the Viper 5701 but I have something weird happening with it. To test it i rolled down the window and stuck my hand in the car. Worked perfectly but it will only trigger the alarm three consecutive times. So on the 4th attempt it will not trigger the alarm. I can see the LED on the sensor lighting up so it is detecting the movement, however, the alarm is not triggered. Once I disconnect the car battery and reconnect it, it will work again but for only three consecutive times. Is there a setting of some sorts or is this expected behavior?

Edit: Nevermind, guessing that the sensor will only allow 3 consecutive triggers in a certain time period in case there are too many false alarms, because i went back outside to test it after waiting 20 mins or so and it works again.

Yes, it's working correctly. It's called "nuisance prevention" in which the Viper will only allow it to be triggered 3 times within an hour period. However, you can turn that off in the settings for the brain.

TomShanK · 06-27-2012, 10:29 PM

S13 Door Card Insert « Broadfield's Blog

I have re-read your Door Card Insert post a few times.

One thing that I can not find is "quantity".

How much fabric did you purchase?

I'm wanting to do something like this: black on black so it's subtle but I'm still an attention whore....
Louis Vuitton Fabric No.10 (black on black with leather backing) - LV Louis Vuitton fabric,Gucci fabric,Coach fabric,Burberry fabric,Versace fabric,D&G farbic

In terms of yards, what did you purchase to complete door cards, shift boot, and possibly glove box?

Broadfield · 06-27-2012, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomShanK

S13 Door Card Insert « Broadfield's Blog

I have re-read your Door Card Insert post a few times.

One thing that I can not find is "quantity".

How much fabric did you purchase?

I'm wanting to do something like this: black on black so it's subtle but I'm still an attention whore....
Louis Vuitton Fabric No.10 (black on black with leather backing) - LV Louis Vuitton fabric,Gucci fabric,Coach fabric,Burberry fabric,Versace fabric,D&G farbic

In terms of yards, what did you purchase to complete door cards, shift boot, and possibly glove box?

I couldn't tell you how much I bought... that was years ago. Just measure the dimensions of everything you want to cover, add about 4-6 inches(for extra hangover) to all of those dimensions and then add up all of the sq. feet of those dimensions and you will have your answer.

TougeLove · 06-27-2012, 11:38 PM

im looking to run my DRLs while my headlights are on and found this diagram online. from what you see here would this be a proper way to do it? do you see me blowing any relays or fuses?
im am still learning the basics of automotive wiring and there isnt too much information on this type of modification.

1. One 4 prong relay
2. One 1.2 ohm resistor
3. One 30 amp max fuse holder
4. 7.5 amp fuse
5. and of course random wires, connections, etc.

Thanks!!

edit: they are 65w highs that drop down to 35w for DRL

Broadfield · 06-27-2012, 11:57 PM

^^^^ What vehicle is this for?

TougeLove · 06-28-2012, 07:27 AM

2011 wrx and I will use the same setup for my 89 coupe fogs pending there is no issues. Overheating etc.

Flicktitty · 06-28-2012, 09:33 AM

With this Speedhut cluster you built, I believe i read the 2 big gauges were 3 3/8's Do you think you can fit 2 4" Speedhut gauges in a s13 cluster?

As i would REALLY love to use this gauge.
Speedometer GPS Dual Gauge, Revolution Gauges Series by SpeedHut

note: I don't have a spare s13 cluster near me to measure it myself, hence why i thought you might know.

Broadfield · 06-29-2012, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TougeLove

im looking to run my DRLs while my headlights are on and found this diagram online. from what you see here would this be a proper way to do it? do you see me blowing any relays or fuses?
im am still learning the basics of automotive wiring and there isnt too much information on this type of modification.

1. One 4 prong relay
2. One 1.2 ohm resistor
3. One 30 amp max fuse holder
4. 7.5 amp fuse
5. and of course random wires, connections, etc.

Thanks!!

edit: they are 65w highs that drop down to 35w for DRL

Yes, that should work assuming your resistance is correct. I assume the resistance was figured out by someone on the Subaru boards?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

With this Speedhut cluster you built, I believe i read the 2 big gauges were 3 3/8's Do you think you can fit 2 4" Speedhut gauges in a s13 cluster?

No, 4" gauges will not fit properly... or at least not what I consider "fitting". The tallest part of the cluster is exactly 4"... and the 4" on the gauge is the mounting diameter of the hole that the gauge drops into. So the actual overall diameter of the bezel is larger than what you have room for. However, I did just look at the measurements on the gauge and it's an undersized 4". The mounting hole is 3.875", but it's still 4.150" overall. So it would slightly stick under the front bezel at the top and bottom edge of the gauge. Not to mention that I have to flush them in which means my flush diameter cut would need to be around 4.275" which would put it far past the bezel... not good in my opinion.

240sxcure · 06-29-2012, 02:12 PM

Broadfield,

Which product do you recommend to insulate the interior of a interior from heat and sound?

Also about how much of such product would you suggest to purchase to cover the floor pan (behind dash to rear passenger bench) a S13?

TougeLove · 06-29-2012, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Yes, that should work assuming your resistance is correct. I assume the resistance was figured out by someone on the Subaru boards?

It was just a guess. It's the most common automotive resistor.the only thing that comes to my mind is it heating up too much. Thanks for your insight!!

Broadfield · 06-29-2012, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TougeLove

It was just a guess. It's the most common automotive resistor.the only thing that comes to my mind is it heating up too much. Thanks for your insight!!

So is it a dual filament bulb?

Broadfield · 07-01-2012, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sxcure

Broadfield,

Which product do you recommend to insulate the interior of a interior from heat and sound?

Also about how much of such product would you suggest to purchase to cover the floor pan (behind dash to rear passenger bench) a S13?

I personally use/sell/install Second Skin products. You can check out their site for various products to suit your specific needs:

Welcome to Second Skin | Second Skin Audio

You can simply measure the area you want to cover and figure out how many square feet you need. A rough measurement of the S13 yields 52" across and 88" from the top of the firewall back to underneath the rear seat. So that comes out to 31.8sq. feet. So if you wanted to cover the whole area in Luxury Liner Pro, then you would need 4 sheets... as they are 9sq. feet per sheet. Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner Pro is what you would want for a noise barrier. Then whatever other materials beneath it... like any of the heat barriers and or Damplifier Pro.

Please let me know if you have any other questions or need a price quote.

06-04-2012, 03:46 PM	#304
KoukiMonsta Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,969 Trader Rating: (23) Feedback Score: 23 reviews	Toby, what's your opinion on tack cloth? Dont recall you mentioning it ever. As for my painting the bay project, do you recommend them for removing fine particles? I do have wax/grease remover already __________________ @UpshiftEngineering

06-04-2012, 06:28 PM	#306
Tranman324 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 355 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	Hey Broadfield, I have a question about your bulk head design. Where did you get that aluminum disc? Was it custom made? If so, If I give you the specs could you have something similar made for me? I'm looking to do this for my 2000 Celica I'm building. I hope you don't mind that I use your design as inspiration. Thanks! __________________

06-06-2012, 08:14 PM	#309
Tranman324 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 355 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	I've got another one for ya. Regarding your old SR set-up, I noticed that you converted all your valve cover outlets to AN fittings. What did you do about the PCV valve? Thanks again! __________________

06-08-2012, 03:22 PM	#310
s14fbs Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: candy mountain Age: 31 Posts: 1,543 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	toby i wanna run my 53mm water temp gauge in my s14 cluster could i remove the stock temp gauge and hole saw the hole to 53mm for the gauge and still keep my working tach and speedo and gas gauge anything esle im not worried as long as those will work and light up still. __________________ http://strictlycoolstuff.tumblr.com/

06-27-2012, 11:57 PM	#323
Broadfield Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Normal, IL Age: 47 Posts: 2,946 Trader Rating: (163) Feedback Score: 163 reviews	^^^^ What vehicle is this for? __________________ Follow Along For My Latest Work My Portfolio Please Share Check Out My Builds

06-08-2012, 10:09 PM	#313
RedSled Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: chilling Posts: 106 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	toby ,with regards to your sr20det valve cover ,how did you put fittings on it for the oil catch can i believe you just drilled out the pipe that sticks out then you tapped the specific threading for your fittings , but how can you do it without scratching or damaging your valve cover mines already painted

06-14-2012, 03:58 AM	#315
slamn240 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: SFV Age: 34 Posts: 856 Trader Rating: (23) Feedback Score: 23 reviews	Honestly i do not post that much online but you are the man when it comes to simple and clean!!!! You pay attention to details which makes a car look so fn amazing. Keep up the good work, you have inspired me to take my time on my build.

06-14-2012, 11:04 AM	#316
K_style Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 7,666 Trader Rating: (63) Rides Gallery: K_style Feedback Score: 63 reviews	What would be the best way to put gauge holders on dashboard ? FYI I have S14. Something like this I tried Scotch indoor mounting tape but it's 2 years old tape so kinda lost stickiness..

06-22-2012, 12:19 PM	#318
blueshark123 Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: North Jersey Posts: 5,481 Trader Rating: (55) Feedback Score: 55 reviews	So I got around to integrating the 509U ultrasonic sensor i bought from you. It was a plug and play event with the Viper 5701 but I have something weird happening with it. To test it i rolled down the window and stuck my hand in the car. Worked perfectly but it will only trigger the alarm three consecutive times. So on the 4th attempt it will not trigger the alarm. I can see the LED on the sensor lighting up so it is detecting the movement, however, the alarm is not triggered. Once I disconnect the car battery and reconnect it, it will work again but for only three consecutive times. Is there a setting of some sorts or is this expected behavior? Edit: Nevermind, guessing that the sensor will only allow 3 consecutive triggers in a certain time period in case there are too many false alarms, because i went back outside to test it after waiting 20 mins or so and it works again.

06-27-2012, 10:29 PM	#320
TomShanK Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Ft. Wayne, IN Posts: 939 Trader Rating: (14) Feedback Score: 14 reviews	S13 Door Card Insert « Broadfield's Blog I have re-read your Door Card Insert post a few times. One thing that I can not find is "quantity". How much fabric did you purchase? I'm wanting to do something like this: black on black so it's subtle but I'm still an attention whore.... Louis Vuitton Fabric No.10 (black on black with leather backing) - LV Louis Vuitton fabric,Gucci fabric,Coach fabric,Burberry fabric,Versace fabric,D&G farbic In terms of yards, what did you purchase to complete door cards, shift boot, and possibly glove box?

06-28-2012, 09:33 AM	#325
Flicktitty Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Wisconsin Age: 34 Posts: 3,685 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	With this Speedhut cluster you built, I believe i read the 2 big gauges were 3 3/8's Do you think you can fit 2 4" Speedhut gauges in a s13 cluster? As i would REALLY love to use this gauge. Speedometer GPS Dual Gauge, Revolution Gauges Series by SpeedHut note: I don't have a spare s13 cluster near me to measure it myself, hence why i thought you might know. __________________ 2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

06-29-2012, 02:12 PM	#327
240sxcure Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: NE Posts: 270 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Broadfield, Which product do you recommend to insulate the interior of a interior from heat and sound? Also about how much of such product would you suggest to purchase to cover the floor pan (behind dash to rear passenger bench) a S13?

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