mrmephistopheles

Items needed for conversion:

Tools -
12mm wrench and/or socket
14mm wrench and/or socket
17mm wrench and/or socket
19mm wrench and/or socket
30mm/32mm and 36mm impact socket
torque wrench
impact gun
pliers
needlenose pliers
3lb sledge and/or rubber mallet
flathead screwdriver
WD40
hub puller (optional)

Parts (covers hub conversion only, not braking)

(S13)
Set A. (recommended method)
2x front conversion hubs (Attain/ichiba/S5/et al)
2x rear hubs (S14/S15/Z32NA/HCR32, etc)

Set B.
2x S14/S15 front spindles with hubs

2x S14 balljoints pressed into S13 LCA
*OR*
2x HCR32 LCAs (balljoint taper and length are perfect)
*OR*
2x S14 LCA (longer, provides more negative camber)

4x bolt sleeves for use of S13 bolts with S14 spindle
*OR*
4x S14 bolts, redrill S13 suspension to 14mm holes

2x rear hubs (S14/S15/Z32/HCR32, etc)


(S14)
2x S14/S15 front spindles or hubs.
2x rear hubs (S14/S15/Z32NA/HCR32, etc)

START!

For my conversion, I used Attain front conversion hubs, and S14 Silvia Q's SE rear hubs.

Attains


S14 Silvia Q's SE




INSTRUCTIONS: REAR
Throughout these steps, use WD40 wherever necessary, and be sure to neatly secure all bolts/washers/etc while they're off the car. Use eye protection - you only get 2 and they're kinda fragile.

Step 1: Park vehicle in gear, lift and secure (via lift or jackstands)

Step 2: Remove wheel(s) from the position(s) you'll be working on.

Step 3: Using a 14mm wrench, loosen caliper, then move aside.


Step 4: Using a 17mm wrench, loosen caliper bracket and move aside.


Step 5: Remove rotor and set aside. If rusted to the hub, thread a bolt into the rotor to push it away from the hub, or use a rubber mallet to break it loose.


Step 6: Remove cotter pin and axle nut cap. FSM says to use a new cotter pin, but I never have.


Step 7: Using the 36mm impact socket, remove the axle nut (this is why we parked it in gear). You can use a breaker bar and 36mm socket, but impacts make life so easy.


Step 8: Remove rear shock/coilover (17mm bottom, 12mm top x 2)

Step 9: Install hub puller as below, and use it to push the axle away from the hub.


Step 10: Loosen and remove the 4 19mm bolts holding the hub to the spindle. The brake dust shield will come loose when you pull the hub off. Now is a good time to replace/mod/remove it depending upon your braking needs.
Reinstall new 5 lug rear in it's place.


Step 11: Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Use the FSM and torque wrench to tighten everything to spec.


Step 12: Install your 5 lug wheels!


INSTRUCTIONS: FRONT (conversion/S14)

Step 1: Park vehicle in gear, lift and secure (via lift or jackstands)

Step 2: Remove wheel(s) from the position(s) you'll be working on. (Remember to loosen before lifting fronts).

Step 3: Using a 14mm wrench, loosen caliper, then move aside.

Step 4: Using a 17mm wrench, loosen caliper bracket and move aside.

Step 5: Remove rotor and set aside. If rusted to the hub, thread a bolt into the rotor to push it away from the hub.

Step 6: Using flathead screwdriver, pry dust cap loose and set aside. Remove cotter pin and set inside dust cap.

Step 7: Using 30mm (32mm for S14) impact socket, loosen spindle nut and set aside.

Step 8: Remove hub. Hub puller may be required, but mine slid straight off. Be sure to not the orientation of the key spacer inside the hub hole.

Step 9: Use a screwdriver and rubber mallet to tap the rear dust ring off of the OEM hub. Use the rubber mallet to replace it onto the conversion hub (or OEM hub if S14/necessary)

Step 10: Place new hub onto spindle, replace key washer, bolt down and cotter pin. Check for freeplay in the hub. Tap dust boot back into place.

Step 11: Reassemble brakes (may have to push piston(s) back into calipers).

Step 12: Mount wheels, pump brakes before starting car, start up, test brakes and drive away.

__________________

LB.Motoring

Looks great,

I might add, sometimes the rear hubs are really on there, even with a puller it helps to tap repeated with a hammer on the hub to break it loose..

nice rear coils, we match in blown kei's

__________________
Robby Leuer

240trainee

Yea, every time I have done rear hubs, I have gotten the old hub out by loosening the bolts in the back like 10 turns or so, and going around the bolts in a criss cross pattern to push the thing out. just gotta make sure you have enough of the bolt threaded to not fuck anything up.

__________________

Team Pterodactyl
SHARK ATTACK!!!
LookoutDrift

JaeTea

Nice writeup!

Why when some people do the rears do they remove the control arms, suspension, axles, etc??

I notice the bottom of the rear strut is disconnected in the one pic.

__________________

KILL!KILL!KILL!KILL!KILL!KILL!KILL!KILL!

DrtyRat

It probably makes getting to the four bolts on the rear(refer to step 10) off the hub a heck of a lot easier. I remember when I did my rears, we didn't take them off, so the only difficult part was taking off those four bolts. Everything else was easy.

__________________

mrmephistopheles

trainee - interesting method.
I might give it a whirl next time I do this.

JaeTea - the FIRST time I did 5 lug was on my 240sx, and I did exactly what you mentioned. I traded my S13 spindle for S14. Protip - don't EVER do this. The reason I did it was because I was performing the conversion in a parking lot with minimal amt of hand tools and no air tools. It was easier to get to all of those bolts than it was to loosen the 4 19s in the back. I SHOULD have just swapped the hub onto the spindle once I had it loose, but alas, I was dumb.

__________________

harleys

3a.m. and i just got done with my 5 lug all around and z32 front brakes. was just wondering why you would take the 14mm bolts out that hold the caliper and then the 17mm bolts for the braket? why not just take the 17's out and take it all off as one piece? i know its only 2 bolts on each side, but that's two bolts that don't have to come out. as far as the rears, i didn't take anything extra loose. the 4 bolts are kinda a tight fit, but doable.

__________________
-harley