shiq

My dad's been driving my s13 recently while his car is being worked on, I normally drive my car fine w/o any problems, but most of my commutes are on the streets, rarely any highway driving. His work happens to be a good 15 minute drive, mostly highway.

By the time he gets to work, the antifreeze is literally boiling, the radiator is burnin' as well. The temp guage stays normal until he gets off the highway and back to normal speeds, thats when it slowly starts rising...
<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'>

When he came back home today i took a look and he had popped the cap off the antifreeze jug and it was indeed boiling, steam everywhere.

He says he's gonna bleed the radiator tommrow and change the antifreeze.

Is this the only logical thing to do right now? Any ideas what's happening? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance..

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negular

i'd do i pressure test see if it holds pressure, since coolant is not supposed to boil under pressure, if it doesnt u got a leak somewhere

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The louder the radio, the better I sing.

camppain

well your coolant can have to much water and is not mixed right has air in it or you have a blown head gasket. but if your dad drains and fills the coolant and notices the coolant literally foam up then you mos def have a blown gasket. theres other ways.

my radiator has a leak by the drain cock and leaks at times so my needle will rise every so often in traffic.

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-=-99 Sentra SE 5 speed-=-
-=-95 240 SE 5 speed-=-

misnomer

Test the system for leaks, and test your radiator cap, make sure it's holding pressure. Too rich an antifreeze mixture will also lower the boiling point, so make sure there's the proper amount of water. . .

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240 2NR

Sounds like a bad water pump or thermostat. &nbsp;To check the water pump feel underneath it (or check the garage floor) for leaks. &nbsp;When they go bad there is a small hole that allows coolant that gets past the failed bearings/seals to drip out, a sign of a dead or dying water pump. &nbsp;Not sure how you would check he thermostat off hand.

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Steve
93 240sx FB currently very clean and for sale

uiuc240

Definitely start by flushing your cooling system and replacing with the proper mixture. &nbsp;Be sure to open the little burp screw when you do it (near the coolant inlet/outlet fitting...I don't know whether coolant is going in or coming out...I'm dumb)

Anyway, you should also check your fan (I assume it's working...but you can check anyway). &nbsp;And as Steve said, check the water pump and the thermostat. &nbsp;You can check thermostat operation by placing your hand on the inlet/outlet tube and waiting to feel the rush of warm water surge through when it opens up. &nbsp;Look at the temp gauge when this happens. &nbsp;Is is somewhere near the middle? &nbsp;If it's getting into the hot side, and you haven't felt that water move yet, your thermostat isn't opening up. &nbsp;Get a new one. &nbsp;Cheap easy fix. &nbsp;Oh, and you can test it really easy when you flush and fill the system. &nbsp;Take the upper hose off. &nbsp;Take the thermostat housing off. &nbsp;Take the thermostat out and place it in a pan of water. &nbsp;Heat up the water on the stove and monitor the temp with a thermometer. &nbsp;It should open at about 170-180 degrees. &nbsp;If it doesn't, replace it. &nbsp;Or you could just replace it, cuz it's cheap, and skip the test. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

Eric

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2002 Mazda Protege5
1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold)