The fabrication thread. - Page 16 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

driftstyre · 03-25-2008, 10:29 AM

They are ITBs

Working on a plenum revision now.

Just a few other pics of the front, new blades for the sway bars and the new Precision intercooler core.

wwiaftm · 03-25-2008, 11:23 AM

Bill that front end is amazing!!!

jobestudios · 03-26-2008, 12:57 AM

Hey bill, what is the specs on the tubing used to construct the front support structure. I want to make a similar style for my v mount with dimple died gussets

driftstyre · 03-26-2008, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jobestudios

Hey bill, what is the specs on the tubing used to construct the front support structure. I want to make a similar style for my v mount with dimple died gussets

The small tubing is .5" OD, .049 wall 4130 chromoly. Id suggest TIG as it is thin but it can be MIG'd. For the lower splitter cage that bolts on to that structure, I have .4" titanium

s13silvia123 · 03-27-2008, 08:35 PM

my first time TIG welding

i was at work and was helping maintance do some work on a new machine since i had nothing to do all day. so here it is

my first attempt a little sloppy but my beads are ok to start with

my second attempt much better and not as sloppy as the first time.

sorry if i didnt clean it up but youre able to see the welds

blu808 · 03-27-2008, 09:47 PM

Nice start.

Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding.
Usually a proper tig weld will not need to be cleaned up. If it appears dirty, then that is usually because of a dirty welding surface.

Good for a start though. I would rec, that you just try to lay some beads on some flat metal. once you have that down joining pieces will be easy :-)

Wiisass · 03-27-2008, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blu808

Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding.

I think this should be the first thing that anyone who wants to weld should learn, how to properly clean what you're welding. It will make learning a lot easier and your welds will come out better.

blu808 · 03-27-2008, 10:31 PM

Good point. I should have mentioned that. I spend more time cleaning each piece of metal than welding it.

s13silvia123 · 03-28-2008, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blu808

Nice start.

Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding.
Usually a proper tig weld will not need to be cleaned up. If it appears dirty, then that is usually because of a dirty welding surface.

Good for a start though. I would rec, that you just try to lay some beads on some flat metal. once you have that down joining pieces will be easy :-)

the stainless steel that i was using was just scrap metal. i was bored and had nothing to do. yes it was dirty. didnt feel like cleaning it. but i'm thinking i'm gonna make something at work if i have nothing to do again.

yes you guys are right. practice makes everything better. next time i'll clean the metal surface so that its cleaner. but this was just practice for me. i do this every once in awhile when i'm bored. i'm trying to make myself better at welding.

i'm probably will be investing on my own TIG welder very soon. but i want a welder that uses gas. it seems like its much more easier for me to weld when i'm using gas. i have a hard time welding without gas. i usually end up with a really sloppy job.

i'm having a buddy at work teach me so i can become better.

blu808 · 03-28-2008, 08:46 AM

Can you elaborate? All tig welders use gas.

Are you referring to mig? You can mig without gas if you use fluxcore wire.

EJ253 · 03-29-2008, 09:13 PM

heres one of my first welds with my new miller
hopefully i have some neat parts to post up soon

projectdrifter · 03-30-2008, 12:34 AM

i figure one of you fabbers can help me out. my question is the hump in the s14 i want to remove it so i can drop my seat lower. what gauge metal should i use. s14 hump on driver side. ii have seen a thread posted before of someone who did it but i cant 4 the life of me track it down. feel free to pm me a to not clutter this great thread up.

blu808 · 03-30-2008, 12:57 PM

18 gauge sheet will work fine.

s13silvia123 · 03-30-2008, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blu808

Can you elaborate? All tig welders use gas.

Are you referring to mig? You can mig without gas if you use fluxcore wire.

yes mig my bad i should of said that in the first place.

Brian W. · 03-30-2008, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DisEpyon

the material is 1/8 aluminum plating, welded with 3/32 5356 aluminum rod, the machine was set around 145 amps (i set all my aluminum working high like that so i can control a wide range of heat) didnt use pulse or post flow and i dont remember where i had my ac balance at, somewhere between cleaning and penetration, most likely a little more on the cleaning side.

i fitted the plates with a corner joint, like in example c in the picture, then grinded the edges a tad bit to help give it a bevel

I have a question for those of you that weld on stainless steel alot,

how are you guys setting up your back purge system? details or pics would be nice. my brother bought some sch 10 manifold tubing material for me to practice on and im having a little trouble as to how to hook one up. Ive heard people using a seperate cylinder, or hooking up a y splitter some where on there machine or cylinder and running a hose off one end.

i use a seperate bottle with a regulator on it.. i have one small hose coming off of it that i then plug into whatever i am welding.

to keep the gas in the weld piece i either:

use tinfoil

or i bought some large "bouncy" balls from toys r us... i then belt sanded them into more of a conical shape and plugged a small brake hardline through it and hook the hose up to that so you can stick it in each runner of the header, and either tape or tinfoil up the other orifices.

^^^^ that worked REALLY well.

i also have a hole drilled in my welding table and plugged a barb fitting in to it that i can then run argon hose from the backpurge bottle to. then i can sit the tube or what have you that i am welding over top of that barb fitting on my welding table and then just cap off the other end.

also make sure to vent it out the otherside... depends on how much pressure you are running though.

DisEpyon · 03-30-2008, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian W.

i use a seperate bottle with a regulator on it.. i have one small hose coming off of it that i then plug into whatever i am welding.

to keep the gas in the weld piece i either:

use tinfoil

or i bought some large "bouncy" balls from toys r us... i then belt sanded them into more of a conical shape and plugged a small brake hardline through it and hook the hose up to that so you can stick it in each runner of the header, and either tape or tinfoil up the other orifices.

^^^^ that worked REALLY well.

i also have a hole drilled in my welding table and plugged a barb fitting in to it that i can then run argon hose from the backpurge bottle to. then i can sit the tube or what have you that i am welding over top of that barb fitting on my welding table and then just cap off the other end.

also make sure to vent it out the otherside... depends on how much pressure you are running though.

Thanks for the reply and info., also how much argon do you usually have the purge set to flowing?

HS13KLS · 03-30-2008, 10:47 PM

NOW THAT IS A GOOD BEAD!!
nice weld!
+1

Quote:

Originally Posted by EJ253

heres one of my first welds with my new miller
hopefully i have some neat parts to post up soon

Brian W. · 03-31-2008, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DisEpyon

Thanks for the reply and info., also how much argon do you usually have the purge set to flowing?

it depends on the volume of the work piece or how well its sealed...

just practice with some scrap material and see what works.. .start at like 7cfm.

EJ253 · 03-31-2008, 12:24 PM

i boxed in my subframes corners, i used 10g sheet metal

im going to box in a few other areas, ill post more pics then

Wiisass · 03-31-2008, 12:51 PM

10 gauge? I think that's a little thicker than you need. I don't think the subframe material itself is even half of that.

GSXRJJordan · 03-31-2008, 01:51 PM

^^^ That's the first thing I thought too! Subframe looks like 16ga stamped pieces to me, but hey, maybe he just had some 10ga sitting around... can't hurt I suppose. Just a little more stress in the center of those pieces, rather than at the joints.

fromxtor · 03-31-2008, 01:59 PM

EJ: Where in NC are you hanging out now?

Luke: Clear out your inbox

*burnsauto* · 03-31-2008, 02:03 PM

I always wonder why I don't see more people help out their sub-frame like that. I'm going to try to add Dimpled braces if possible when i get ahold of an extra sub-frame. Keeping everything out of the way and clean looking, while also giving the most support I can, is going to be the hard part.

EJ253 · 03-31-2008, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fromxtor

EJ: Where in NC are you hanging out now

When I'm there I'm usually in charlotte, but I'm in Utah for the time being.

The the gauge of the subframe I should check it again, but I could've sworn it was thicker than 16g, I thought it was closer to 1/8th or so

initial D · 03-31-2008, 07:46 PM

everyone does some sweet work from the pictures ive seen, ive wanted to get into welding for a while just unsure about what kind of welder to get.

And i have a rust hole in the floor of my car, what kind of welder would be used for that? would it matter what kind i used?

blu808 · 03-31-2008, 07:59 PM

thanks. Inbox cleared.

Luke

*TougeLabs* · 04-01-2008, 03:34 PM

Hey guys i just wanted to show you how the centerline intake plenum was coming along heres some piks of it coming together. Rich over at Excessive is a great guy and the only other plenum i have seen that is centerline "throttle inlet between 2 and 3" was that saurus time attack. Also we are doing a bolt on plenum for right now so we can switch it over to a normal front throttle body and check the diff. on the dyno.

*TougeLabs* · 04-05-2008, 02:20 PM

driftstyre · 04-08-2008, 08:31 AM

I finished the endtanks for the intercooler and they might need a little tweaking but they are ok. I'd love to get some better metal fabricating tools...someday. I also got my dual wall 2.5" stainless bellows (from coast fab)for the wastegate return and the twin scroll housing for the GT30. Now I can fit the exhaust and then send the housing/manifold to swain for coating.

Also, this is a rotary powered Lotus 7 replica. The factory turbos imploded so I fabbed up a manifold and exhaust for the new 3071R. 2000lbs and this turbo should be fun

lazierhobo · 04-08-2008, 09:15 AM

as always bill excellent work!! that lotus must be a blast to drive

seems that the 3071 is becoming a quick favorite.

03-26-2008, 12:57 AM	#453
jobestudios Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Bellingham Posts: 349 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Hey bill, what is the specs on the tubing used to construct the front support structure. I want to make a similar style for my v mount with dimple died gussets __________________ -Jackson.Vaughn.Photography-

03-27-2008, 08:35 PM	#455
s13silvia123 Post Whore! Join Date: May 2006 Location: where waldo is Age: 39 Posts: 3,256 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	my first time TIG welding i was at work and was helping maintance do some work on a new machine since i had nothing to do all day. so here it is my first attempt a little sloppy but my beads are ok to start with my second attempt much better and not as sloppy as the first time. sorry if i didnt clean it up but youre able to see the welds __________________ 18g and 20g turbo users click on me http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/261219-18g-20g-turbo-users.html

03-27-2008, 09:47 PM	#456
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Nice start. Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding. Usually a proper tig weld will not need to be cleaned up. If it appears dirty, then that is usually because of a dirty welding surface. Good for a start though. I would rec, that you just try to lay some beads on some flat metal. once you have that down joining pieces will be easy :-) __________________

03-27-2008, 10:31 PM	#458
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Good point. I should have mentioned that. I spend more time cleaning each piece of metal than welding it. __________________

03-28-2008, 08:46 AM	#460
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Can you elaborate? All tig welders use gas. Are you referring to mig? You can mig without gas if you use fluxcore wire. __________________

03-25-2008, 10:29 AM	#451
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	They are ITBs Working on a plenum revision now. Just a few other pics of the front, new blades for the sway bars and the new Precision intercooler core.

03-25-2008, 11:23 AM	#452
wwiaftm Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Posts: 4 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Bill that front end is amazing!!!

03-29-2008, 09:13 PM	#461
EJ253 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Salt Lake City Age: 32 Posts: 1,154 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: EJ253 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	heres one of my first welds with my new miller hopefully i have some neat parts to post up soon __________________ The gap between MORE and ENOUGH never closes. DriftUtah \| UtahNissans \| MySpace \| I <3 Drifting. Keep it Real. Secret Society

03-30-2008, 12:34 AM	#462
projectdrifter Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: myrtle beach,south carolina Posts: 932 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i figure one of you fabbers can help me out. my question is the hump in the s14 i want to remove it so i can drop my seat lower. what gauge metal should i use. s14 hump on driver side. ii have seen a thread posted before of someone who did it but i cant 4 the life of me track it down. feel free to pm me a to not clutter this great thread up. __________________ Mouth of the South There are a few mailboxes that have been looking at me the wrong way, lately. Nothing goes unchecked.

03-30-2008, 12:57 PM	#463
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	18 gauge sheet will work fine. __________________

03-31-2008, 12:24 PM	#469
EJ253 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Salt Lake City Age: 32 Posts: 1,154 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: EJ253 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i boxed in my subframes corners, i used 10g sheet metal im going to box in a few other areas, ill post more pics then __________________ The gap between MORE and ENOUGH never closes. DriftUtah \| UtahNissans \| MySpace \| I <3 Drifting. Keep it Real. Secret Society

03-31-2008, 12:51 PM	#470
Wiisass Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Philly Posts: 486 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	10 gauge? I think that's a little thicker than you need. I don't think the subframe material itself is even half of that. __________________ TIP Engineering R/T Tuning Drift and RWD Sport DriftAssNation

03-31-2008, 01:51 PM	#471
GSXRJJordan Post Whore! Join Date: May 2006 Location: << 626 >> Posts: 9,135 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: GSXRJJordan Feedback Score: 19 reviews	^^^ That's the first thing I thought too! Subframe looks like 16ga stamped pieces to me, but hey, maybe he just had some 10ga sitting around... can't hurt I suppose. Just a little more stress in the center of those pieces, rather than at the joints. __________________ Jordan Innovations has a new web site! www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

03-31-2008, 01:59 PM	#472
fromxtor Post Whore! Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NC Age: 40 Posts: 3,012 Trader Rating: (23) Feedback Score: 23 reviews	EJ: Where in NC are you hanging out now? Luke: Clear out your inbox __________________ Seller feedback>>http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...light=fromxtor

03-31-2008, 02:03 PM	#473
burnsauto Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: 717, PA Age: 35 Posts: 3,153 Trader Rating: (5) Rides Gallery: burnsauto Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I always wonder why I don't see more people help out their sub-frame like that. I'm going to try to add Dimpled braces if possible when i get ahold of an extra sub-frame. Keeping everything out of the way and clean looking, while also giving the most support I can, is going to be the hard part. __________________

03-31-2008, 07:46 PM	#475
initial D Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lakeland Age: 32 Posts: 103 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	everyone does some sweet work from the pictures ive seen, ive wanted to get into welding for a while just unsure about what kind of welder to get. And i have a rust hole in the floor of my car, what kind of welder would be used for that? would it matter what kind i used?

03-31-2008, 07:59 PM	#476
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	thanks. Inbox cleared. Luke __________________

04-01-2008, 03:34 PM	#477
TougeLabs Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New York Age: 36 Posts: 1,570 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Centerline Intake w/q45 TB Hey guys i just wanted to show you how the centerline intake plenum was coming along heres some piks of it coming together. Rich over at Excessive is a great guy and the only other plenum i have seen that is centerline "throttle inlet between 2 and 3" was that saurus time attack. Also we are doing a bolt on plenum for right now so we can switch it over to a normal front throttle body and check the diff. on the dyno. Last edited by TougeLabs; 04-05-2008 at 02:19 PM.. Reason: forgot pictures

04-05-2008, 02:20 PM	#478
TougeLabs Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New York Age: 36 Posts: 1,570 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews

04-08-2008, 08:31 AM	#479
driftstyre Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Boston Age: 42 Posts: 748 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I finished the endtanks for the intercooler and they might need a little tweaking but they are ok. I'd love to get some better metal fabricating tools...someday. I also got my dual wall 2.5" stainless bellows (from coast fab)for the wastegate return and the twin scroll housing for the GT30. Now I can fit the exhaust and then send the housing/manifold to swain for coating. Also, this is a rotary powered Lotus 7 replica. The factory turbos imploded so I fabbed up a manifold and exhaust for the new 3071R. 2000lbs and this turbo should be fun

04-08-2008, 09:15 AM	#480
lazierhobo Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: upstate NY Posts: 228 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	as always bill excellent work!! that lotus must be a blast to drive seems that the 3071 is becoming a quick favorite.

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