deuceforty

did you ground everything?? any ground coming off the main harness is VERY important..

__________________

TWO TONE COUPE FS NC

VNG704

low battery?

a little fyi, higher than normal compression can also be caused by excessive carbon build up in cylinder/on pistons. Seafoam can fix this unless it's really bad then you'd have to take the head off and manually take off the carbon buildup.

VOoDOoGTX

the car wont even crank.... well that news too me. whats it do when you turn the key?

CRyan

Yeah man it only is able to turn over by the starter....I went through the harness and checked all grounds. And they all are now...still no attempt of combustion...

KrazyS13

Look to see if the ECU is throwing codes! It might give you somewhere to start troubleshooting.

CRyan

The check engine light isn't flashing at all... Just comes on with no flashing...

KrazyS13

I'm not talking about the check engine light on the gauge cluster, I'm talking about pulling codes from the ECU by putting it in diagnostic mode and using the LED thats located ON the ECU..... This was pulled straight from the SR20DET FAQ......

- this is general for 89-98 Nissan but most apply to the SR20 motor.
- to set car into diag. mode, with the key in the "ON" position, turn potentometer screw on ECU fully clockwise, then turn it fully counterclockwise. The LED on the ECU will begin to flash.
- first digit = LONG blink; second digit = SHORT blink (ex: 1... 1... 1... 1... then 1-1-1 equals 43 = TPS)

Error Codes Biatch
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.

CRyan

that is incredibly useful! Thanks a lot for that! Unfortunately I had to leave for the coast for work this morning- but as soon as I get home I will go run the diagnostics...how does it distinguish itself between each two numbers if tere is more than one code?

l33tmonkeyman

If there is nore than one code it should do the long flashes then short flashes for the one code. after its done it should go back to long flashes and so forth. if that second number is different there is more than one code. It just loops the fault codes and once it gets back to the first one then you know that is all the codes the ecu has.

CRyan

YES were getting somewhere now guys! I ran a diagnostics and the coolant temperature sensor was the code pulled! This won't allow the car to crank correct?!? I am getting pretty excited it is just annoying to get to the plug to test it! Damn return fuel line!

singlecamslam

Usually if the coolant temp sensor is bad the car would run like crap, but i would change that too since its important.

__________________
Nothing says racecar like a stock car with no interior.

CRyan

Alright well the one wire plug was completely yanked off...plugged it back up and now it's reading a code 55. Which is no malfunction. I am headed to get another coolant temp sensor plug just in case it itself has gone bad. But I guess it would still tell me at the ecu, right?

Anyone know what temp sensor I can use from advance auto (part number)?

CRyan

aLright well new informative news!!! Fuel injectors have NO fuel coming out of them. I just removed the top of the intake and pulled her. Would it be wise to just run a couple wires from a battery to the injector to see if it is pulsating?

I guess I will take it by an injection place tomorrow? Any info on why they might not be moving would be great. Btw NO smell on the ends of the injectors.

singlecamslam

This may be stupid, but same exactly thing happened to me and car wouldnt start, turns out that i had the fuel lines on backwards.

__________________
Nothing says racecar like a stock car with no interior.

CRyan

Ok so. Here is the new news.

Basically, fuel injectors are able to move (ran wire from 12 v battery and watched them go in) BUT the drivers are not pulsating. I am going to assume that it is ground not getting somewhere seeing as this fuel injection is sequiential, therefor allowing each injector to squire independently. And I do not believe that all the drivers went out at once.

So does anyone know what wire I should be inspecting. I feel so good that I am starting to accomplish something, all with the help of you guys!

So as stated, we have zoned the problem almost presicely.

If anyone would like to chime in on this subject, as opposing my theory of believing there isn't a ground for the drivers to essentially "drive", please chime in quickly!

Thanks everyone,
CRyan