Dsmguy1993

I searched and couldnt find an answer. In the S13 in the engine bay there is a steering shaft or rod that connects to the power steering rack using splines and at the firewall it connects to the interior steering column with two nuts. What thread pitch are those nuts? Asking because my nuts seem to have damaged threads and gives a lot of resistance when screwing back onto the stud. Two of the threads on the stud look smushed/crossthreaded the rest are fine. Its weird because when I removed these nuts originally to install my solid steering shaft bushing they were very tight to remove I had to have someone hold the steering wheel. My guess is maybe they were crossthreaded by someone very slightly or by the factory? I was gonna buy new nuts to remedy this issue and possibly run a die over the first two - three threads on the stud to clean the threads the rest of the threads look perfect.

projectsupra

IIRC these are intentionally deformed as a locking feature, you wouldn't want the steering joint coming loose. I had no trouble reinstalling them, but I believe they are M6 (regular 12mm socket)?

S14rebuild

They are tapered aswell, to hold the shaft properly..regular bolt i beleve will leave slop/wooble if used

Dsmguy1993

i got it figured out I bought new nuts from autozone and they went in perfectly had my dad hold the steering wheel as I installed them didnt use a torque wrench just made them nice and tight. its a giant relief you tell me they are tapered I feel so much better for a moment I thought I somehow messed it up.
i forgot exactly what size it was if your reading this thread and you would like to know just take the nut to autozone and match it up also match the threads up thats what me and the employee did there and it worked out good. they also have different grades of nuts I chose the harder ones personal preference.

mechanicalmoron

Either crimplocks or threadlocked.

If you used a cheese-grade fastener, you need to re-install it with locktite - it's meant to have a lot of friction all the way on, and all the way off.

The original is probably better quality, and if the threads looked okay, they are - I'd use that, and I'd add threadlocker.

Dsmguy1993

what would qualify as a cheese grade fastener? Also I did not use locktite on mine but I guess I can just take it out a few threads to add a little locktite and retighten it? yes its hard to go on and come off I have to have someone hold the steering wheel and it takes a ton of force to initially loosen it I feel like im messing up the threads but in reality im not theres just a lot of force to loosen it.

mechanicalmoron

Whatever's not high grade from a reputable source, I wouldn't use. I'd add locktite and put the original back.

Wire the wheel to the seat rails or something if you need to do work but don't want to keep asking for help. Or maybe put a prybar by the bushing.

Use a longer tool if you can't turn it well enough.

Dsmguy1993

I should also add that when I installed this bushing you have to lightly tap it back into the firewall with the steering linkage attached if youve ever done this before you know what im talking about. I also use a tiny amount of grease when first installing the bearing so you dont need a hard tap to get those little cylindrical bushings inside of it. as for the fastener I got it from autozone and it feels much higher quality then the original nuts the original ones did not even feel very strong but yeah Ill add locktite to them thats no problem I got like a bunch of locktite blue for situations like this I also locktite my poly trans mount for insurance. Also I forgot to say that I upgraded to a solid bushing so perhaps with a rubber bushing you dont have to tap it in to reinstall it into the firewall into the two studs it goes into. Also for those curious yes there is a giant difference with a solid steering bushing a LOT less slop and it feels great I use a stance one personally but the diftech one is just as nice. I had to install it ever since I saw it for 20$ I was like I have to have that.

Dsmguy1993

i use m8x1.0 class 8.8 Hex fine Nuts for those curious.

mechanicalmoron

Yeah, the steering shaft is collapsible, but you should be able to push it, don't tap your deeply buried old tired steering column bearings, if you can help it.

No, 8.8 is low/mid grade, it's equivalent to a grade 5 SAE fastener. 10.9 is the normal high strength metric spec. (there's 12.9, but it is brittle and shouldn't be assumed better)

I mean these are a lot less critical than the thru-bolt, it just seems like you should be very certain, considering your level of mechanical experience.

Dsmguy1993

This is a good discussion I definitely think Im going to upgrade to a 10.9 fastener with blue locktite. as for tapping it in when you go to reinstall the steering linkage to the firewall it will go into its two studs like halfway and from there I just give it light taps until its all the way in works like s charm. You have to tap the old cylindrical metal bushings into the new steering rack bushing with the old nissan rubber bushing you can push it in with your hands but with a new aluminum
one you need to lightly tap it in. there are four in total two hold the bushings in and the other two slide into the studs on the firewall. The nuts go on easier when your putting it back together because the bushing is sitting against the firewall and the new nuts thread on with little force but when you first loosen them there is a lot of tension perhaps because the bushing is pushing against those nuts when you first loosen them. Perhaps you meant the bearing behind the steering wheel like dont tap it so that bearing does not feel ithe vibration? im talking about the steering wheel bearing right behind the small snap ring.