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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-05-2013, 04:45 PM | #3241 |
Nissanaholic!
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or are you guys running a stock FPR?
EDIT: since my post got lost last page-------- are you guys running adjustable FPR's? what is your setting at? just picked up a nismo. I have a walbro 255, and it's currently at stock setting. i can't check, but i have another FPR with a gauge on it. i might just hook it all up, though it's unnecessary lol. it is one of those ebay type's, it's from DNA motoring. has a gauge so i'll at least know what PSI i'm at. |
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05-05-2013, 06:10 PM | #3245 |
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I'm running an Aeromotive AFPR with -6AN lines throughout. I think it's set at roughly 45 psi base pressure. I make minimal adjustments to it to adjust my tune accordingly. I have a wideband, so I just pay attention to that and try to keep the WOT AFR between 11.5 and 12.0.
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05-05-2013, 06:44 PM | #3246 |
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I run an aeromotive fpr, with -6an lines as well, but with simple push lock fittings. The fuel pressure should always be 3bar 43.5psi unless your tuner or injector manufacturer specifies different. And if you are tuned, and you need to adjust fuel pressure, get re tuned. Now cams tend to lower vacuum that's when you may need an adjustable fpr. To help you maintain that base fuel pressure of about 43.5psi. There are other reasons fuel pressure maybe to high or low, just to name a few: vacuum leaks, weak or tired engine, clogged fuel filter and or lines. woooooooooooosh! <----that's me flying off in my super tech-man outfit!!!
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05-05-2013, 07:37 PM | #3249 |
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You mean me? If so yeah from a ka. It's been drilled out, so fuel flows straight through to the aeromotive unit. I should buy a fitting for the rail, but this works fine, so I haven't touched it in 6years
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05-05-2013, 10:32 PM | #3250 |
Nissanaholic!
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got it.
since i have a nismo, and no fuel pressure gauge to see the flow, i might just run the nismo, have it on full open, and run the other FPR i have, with the pressure gauge on the side. |
05-05-2013, 10:37 PM | #3252 |
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I started installing my gt2871r. However I ran into a problem when clocking the turbo. The actuator bracket needed to be flipped, but doing so causes the rod to not reach to the flapper. I did research and found that some people were having to make their own actuator bracket. None of the pictures from these older threads were working though. I was hoping someone could post a picture of the bracket they made so I can maybe get an idea of how to make my own.
I came across this bracket on ebay. Garrett Adjustable Wastegate Bracket GT25R GT28R GT30R | eBay It looks like it might work due to the bend being opposite of the stock bracket. So instead of being further from the flapper it would be closer. What do you guys think? I also was looking into a way to extend the rod and came across this. http://www.himni-racing.com/index.ph...2srt49mbeg6923 Has anyone used this type of extension before? It does not say the tread pitch so I was a little unsure if it would even fit. Anyways If you guys could help me figure a way to get this actuator to work on my turbo it would be greatly appreciated. |
05-05-2013, 11:32 PM | #3253 | |
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Quote:
What you can do is pull apart the internals of the fpr with the gauge install it after the filter and adjust the nismo unit. I don't know what type of fpr it is but the ones like isis, can be stripped apart and used as a fpr gauge adapter. that's probably not feasible when you can by a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and hose adapter so cheap. You can rotate the rod, grab it and twist it clockwise, see if you have enough room to attach it. There are many ways too fix your issue, and I shouldn't take that away from you.
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05-06-2013, 05:52 AM | #3254 |
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The problem is the rod is now too short. I extended to rod end all the way out and still can't attach it. Maybe if i preload the shit out of it would, but obviously I wouldn't want to do that.
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05-06-2013, 06:44 AM | #3255 |
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Stack washers underneath the bracket, may need longer bolts. Cant really see how far away it, but you'll want a little preload.
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05-06-2013, 07:35 AM | #3256 |
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Yea sorry about the pic. I posted it more so you guys could see the housing. I will take a better picture today after work. Its pretty far. It only comes sort of close if the rod end is all the way extended and only being held on by a few threads which I don't think would be safe, but either way it don't reach. I saw other threads where people were saying you need to make a custom bracket for the actuator. Unfortunately the pics were no longer working cause the threads were so old. When I get home I will post better pics and links to the thread.
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05-06-2013, 01:19 PM | #3257 |
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Ok so I spoke with the guys at ATP Turbo and they seemed to be very knowledgeable. Once I told them which housing and that it was being clocked for the rwd sr20 they sent me this link Garrett Adjustable Wastegate Bracket : atpturbo.com and assured me this would solve my problem. If you notice it is the same bracket I posted earlier from EBAY lol. I thought the bracket would do the trick, but wasn't sure if that was the one I needed. Once I get the bracket Installed I will post pictures of it and how it fits so if anyone runs into the same issue as me they will know what to do.
Oh, and thanks for your responses cotbu. I appreciate you helping me try and figure it out. Last edited by SR20HAYES; 05-06-2013 at 02:00 PM.. |
05-07-2013, 11:40 AM | #3258 |
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New 2871r owner here. Freshly installed on sunday just got to drive it some today and it pulls nice. Hope to film some pulls on my gopro once i get the boost controller dialed in.
What ive noticed is a lot of people going external gate on these. At what PSI does the boost creep start to become an issue im wondering?
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05-08-2013, 11:25 AM | #3259 | |
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Quote:
These turbos creep at anything under 14psi |
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05-10-2013, 10:58 PM | #3261 |
Leaky Injector
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With nearly 200k miles on my motor my head gasket finally gave way, it's had a GT2871R on it for 120k of those miles running at least 15psi the whole time. Forge Motorsport External wastegate is rock solid boost until 20psi then it gets a little fuzzy, also evidently kills paper headgaskets from 1991.
Plan is: Cometic MLS headgasket Poncams ARP studs new oil/water pumps Tomei RAS It's got a JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, and 740cc injectors. AFC-Neo to correct for cams and fine tune. Any suggestions for while I've got the head off? Hoping to get in the damn near 400whp club with this setup.
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05-11-2013, 09:16 AM | #3262 |
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although i have never run one, most people don't agree with cometic hg. personally i would spend the few extra bux and get something else. i've run cosworth and apexi and have never had any issue's. make sure you at least get the head decked also.
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05-11-2013, 09:45 AM | #3264 |
Nissanaholic!
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go big, go apexi HG,
or cosworth to save a buck, though quite often its the prep (or lack of) that leads people with cometic to fail. i had ones for years...tempted to re run it a few times now haha
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05-11-2013, 10:01 AM | #3265 | |
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Just for the record, cometic head gaskets are shit compared to other gasket manufactures, but the still work. I didn't deck the block or head, because they were straight. My surfaces were cleaned by hand. I also didn't use copper spray, i did use gray rtv around the timing cover. 20, 40, 60, 80, 80. I was on a budget and FRsport came to the rescue. At the shop we only use cosworth gaskets or whatever a customer requests which is usually Apexi, but I wanted to get studs also so I decided to use the cometic HG, and see if there really was an issue when not decking or having a super mirror surface. The conclusion is there is no issue with sealing the head to the block and it's all just a matter of preference.
Quote:
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05-11-2013, 06:52 PM | #3267 |
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