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Old 04-28-2020, 07:03 PM   #1261
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It seems JE or CP make the proper high comp pistons

Not sure what you mean by "perfect pistons" however. Dont think there is such a thing lol
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Old 04-29-2020, 08:16 AM   #1262
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what i meant is what works best on E85 and methanol. also for less or no detonation, make less boost for more hp.
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:47 PM   #1263
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So I was recommend on Holley HydraMat. I had the ECU failsafe for oil pressure as well. However, was unable to setup data log before or during the event (long story). So I am not sure if it's fuel starvation or ecu failsafe or both. Tough to glance down at the race dash when trying to hang on because #stockseat (a part of why I wasn't able to setup datalogging......yeah long story).

I am "guessing" fuel starvation as if it was an oil pressure issue, I figured it would occur on both right AND left handers (the custom oil pan baffle, designed off the old Jun drop in stock pan design, is symmetrical on both sides). We will see



Will probably throw in the hydramat and see. Tough to test on the street however as there is no way in hell I am going to be full send on any on ramp
Sort of unrelated, but since you brought this up, has anyone run one of the Jun baffles in tandem with a baffled lower oil pan? Have an ISR extended capacity pan with the flaps in it and I dont know if it would be redundant to add the Jun baffle too, or if it would be extra security.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:32 AM   #1264
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what i meant is what works best on E85 and methanol. also for less or no detonation, make less boost for more hp.

I have a 11:1 sr20det on flex fuel, e85 is the way to go.
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Old 10-25-2020, 09:44 AM   #1265
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Hello

A quick question:
I want to fabricate hard oil lines with banjo ends for solenoid relocation bracket and fit the bracket on the engine block(under the intake preferably), because as I've found, hoses with AN fittings leaks no matter how tight I screw them. Leakage is barely noticeable, but it definitely takes place.

I googled and found a couple of photos, with possible bracket locations,




but I just cannot redo the same, I have S14 block and stock heater lines take almost all the place under intake collector:





Could any proficient one advise a way of securing Mazworx solenoids bracket on the block?
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:20 AM   #1266
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There should be no leaking period..what fittings are u using?

Hard lines use the same 37deg flare as AN fittings do....
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:57 AM   #1267
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There should be no leaking period..what fittings are u using?

Hard lines use the same 37deg flare as AN fittings do....
Stainless AN4 fittings, come with Mazworx kit. Leakage is minimal, let's say not a leakage but a thin film of oil on hoses and fittings. Plus hoses clutter engine bay and fittings are almost impossible to be disconnected with engine installed.
I want to make hard lines with banjo rings+banjo bolts.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:59 AM   #1268
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Stainless AN4 fittings, come with Mazworx kit. Leakage is minimal, let's say not a leakage but a thin film of oil on hoses and fittings. Plus hoses clutter engine bay and fittings are almost impossible to be disconnected with engine installed.


Perhaps a high temp Teflon tape on the threads would help?
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:37 PM   #1269
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Originally Posted by splitfire View Post
Stainless AN4 fittings, come with Mazworx kit. Leakage is minimal, let's say not a leakage but a thin film of oil on hoses and fittings. Plus hoses clutter engine bay and fittings are almost impossible to be disconnected with engine installed.
I want to make hard lines with banjo rings+banjo bolts.
Hmm that is weird there is seepage from the fittings... good enough for avation, arm and navy/MILTARY(hence AN) no debis in the mating surfaces, or finish imperfections?

Hard lines can work you just need tobe cautious of reverbation(vibrqtion in the lines causing metal fatigue. Plus i would imagine the easy of installation and removal being harder.
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:39 PM   #1270
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Originally Posted by d9m13n View Post
Perhaps a high temp Teflon tape on the threads would help?

AN fittings do not seal by the threads, they seal on the 37deg. Mating surfaces. No sealing tape/compound or sealent should be used.

Ive had some cheap fittings slightly leak, some lapping compound. Snug down the fitting lightly, spin the fitting, remove, clean all the compound out and reinstall..no more issue
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Old 10-30-2020, 05:37 AM   #1271
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In this photo, does the outside/top line connect to the top fitting on the heater core?

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Old 10-30-2020, 07:59 AM   #1272
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Quote:
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In this photo, does the outside/top line connect to the top fitting on the heater core?
...
Yes it does.
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Old 10-30-2020, 02:43 PM   #1273
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Yes it does.
Thanks.

In regards to your leaking AN. They do make JIC fittings that have a Teflon ?oring? on the taper to help seal. I am not sure off hand if the JIC have the same taper as an AN.
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Old 12-21-2020, 08:59 AM   #1274
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Hello guys, it seems a lot of us have similar setups.

Mine is as follows:
CP 9:1 pistons
eagle rods
N1 Cams
supertech springs
EFR 7163 T4 Twin with 4 port ebcs and twin port actuator
3.5" exhaust

Been to the dyno recently and I'm kind of underwhelmed with the results.

Horsepower aint that bad for 18 psi. However the shape of the curve is what I dislike the most.

A friend of mine with a very similar setup has a graph that looks exactly the same as mine.

Mid range is great, however, I felt it lacked the top end it used to have when it was N/A.


Is the 7163 choking up top or what?

Same engine just different pistons and turbo setup.
Dotted line is N/A.

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Old 12-21-2020, 09:18 AM   #1275
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The friend you speak of is me btw

PM Lucky. He is also on a 7163 and N1 cams. Let me know as I have his contact from another forum and he seemed to have better luck than either of us
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:02 AM   #1276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by candamo View Post
Been to the dyno recently and I'm kind of underwhelmed with the results.

Horsepower aint that bad for 18 psi. However the shape of the curve is what I dislike the most.

A friend of mine with a very similar setup has a graph that looks exactly the same as mine.

Mid range is great, however, I felt it lacked the top end it used to have when it was N/A.


Is the 7163 choking up top or what?

Same engine just different pistons and turbo setup.
Dotted line is N/A.
That?s pretty low power even at 18psi. My GTX3076R made almost 500 on 19-20psi.

Are your cams switching over? It doesn?t seem overly apparent on the graph.
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:52 AM   #1277
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You need to set the scale for horsepower and torque even so you can get an accurate view of the powerband when comparing it to others.
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Old 12-21-2020, 11:13 AM   #1278
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So i'm sending out my block to mazwork to be built. 90mm sleeved 2.2 I am wondering if they have to open up the combustion chamber pocket on the head when running that size piston, or do they just leave it as is?
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Old 12-21-2020, 11:32 AM   #1279
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^ That is definitely a question for Mazworx
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Old 12-21-2020, 11:46 AM   #1280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30gangsta View Post
So i'm sending out my block to mazwork to be built. 90mm sleeved 2.2 I am wondering if they have to open up the combustion chamber pocket on the head when running that size piston, or do they just leave it as is?
they offer it as an option. i'm not sure if its mandatory, but if it was my build i'd def opt for it.

I agree, def a question for mazworx.
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Old 12-21-2020, 04:32 PM   #1281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
That?s pretty low power even at 18psi. My GTX3076R made almost 500 on 19-20psi.

Are your cams switching over? It doesn?t seem overly apparent on the graph.
Yeah I know its kinda low for the turbo and motor combo. My buddies stock SR20DET with a 6258 did 10whp less on the same boost.

VVL are turning on at 5500 rpm.
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Old 12-21-2020, 07:16 PM   #1282
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Quote:
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Yeah I know its kinda low for the turbo and motor combo. My buddies stock SR20DET with a 6258 did 10whp less on the same boost.

VVL are turning on at 5500 rpm.
Why so late on the switch over? I engaged mine at 4400.
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Old 12-22-2020, 07:41 AM   #1283
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anyone running 10:1 pistons here ,any piston to valve clearance issues ?
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Old 12-22-2020, 07:48 AM   #1284
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Also, those N1 cams like a big turbine housing.

And agree with Jr. Any stock based cam on the VE, for turbo applications, an earlier engagement point is better for spoolup, etc
RedSled; depends. Do your piston have reliefs?? If not, there is a good chance there will be interface even on stock P11 cams
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Old 12-22-2020, 12:21 PM   #1285
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So i'm sending out my block to mazwork to be built. 90mm sleeved 2.2 I am wondering if they have to open up the combustion chamber pocket on the head when running that size piston, or do they just leave it as is?
If you?re going to 90mm, I would have the head matched. If you stayed under 88mm, I wouldn?t as quench pads help tremendously with mixing and burn. Full on race motor, no doubt remove quench because it deshrouds the valve.
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Old 12-22-2020, 04:03 PM   #1286
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If you?re going to 90mm, I would have the head matched. If you stayed under 88mm, I wouldn?t as quench pads help tremendously with mixing and burn. Full on race motor, no doubt remove quench because it deshrouds the valve.
Honestly I haven't purchased pistons yet just the sleeves, rods, and ati. If your suggestion is to just go to 88mm to avoid the extra cost of machining the heads to remove the quench pads I might just do that.
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Old 12-22-2020, 07:51 PM   #1287
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Honestly I haven't purchased pistons yet just the sleeves, rods, and ati. If your suggestion is to just go to 88mm to avoid the extra cost of machining the heads to remove the quench pads I might just do that.
Just to follow up our conversation.

Deshrouding the valves helps a lot with flow. However, that plays more into an NA motor than a forced induction motor. Now I?m not saying there aren?t benefits of doing it, but they aren?t going to be as beneficial. Quench helps, but there is always a fine line and grey areas. Talk to your tuners/engine builders.

If you?re going 90mm, it makes the most sense to open the chamber to match. One should note, this will drop static compression, so compensate for that. You can get custom pistons pretty reasonable when comparing to overall cost of a piston. I think Diamond charges 20$ per piston to make a single upgrade or change to their ?standard? piston. I would imagine the other companies are similar.

The VE head can benefit from exhaust side port work. The idea is to get the flow through the head, not just into or out of.
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Old 05-19-2021, 04:05 PM   #1288
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Hello friends, I have a quick question.

i am currently using a p11 head on a sr22vet with stock p11 sr20vet camshaft. if I just mount the sr20vet exhaust cam (I don't have the intake one so I would stay in p11 sr20ve), I will gain a bit at low revs or high revs with my gt3076r for those who have tried.

Thanks for your help !!

a yes and I am looking for admission p11 sr20 style xcessive or other. Good night
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Old 05-19-2021, 06:50 PM   #1289
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Hello friends, I have a quick question.

i am currently using a p11 head on a sr22vet with stock p11 sr20vet camshaft. if I just mount the sr20vet exhaust cam (I don't have the intake one so I would stay in p11 sr20ve), I will gain a bit at low revs or high revs with my gt3076r for those who have tried.

Thanks for your help !!

a yes and I am looking for admission p11 sr20 style xcessive or other. Good night
I?m not sure I follow you 100%, but I?ll try.

The P11 cams will not hurt you at your power levels (GT3076R). What intake cam are you looking for? The way I interpret this is you have a VET exhaust cam and a P11 intake cam. Correct? The older 3076R is slow to spool, with the Gen2 being the quickest. You can switch the VET exhaust cam will help offset that a bit.
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Old 05-20-2021, 01:46 AM   #1290
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yes the current configuration is:
Sr22 bottom 8:7.1 sleeved hks , 87mm pistons
Stock p11 head Sr20ve
Stock camshafts Sr20ve p11
E85
Gt3076r a/r 0,64 no divided

and I have sr20vet exhaust cams on the shelf. For now with gt3076r I have full boost 1b2 to 4000/4500 before it's a bit laggy. camshafts sr20vet exhaust has less crossbreeding to help low rpm ? Thank you for supporting
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