OhShitItsTee

Yeah so I want to build the suspension on my 95 zenki for drifting . What all do I need ??? A list would be nice lol thanks

kingJurzy

Is it going to be a daily/weekend warrior?

Give us more information on your budget, uses for the car, what motor you have and if you think you can drift just because your rear end slid out that one time.

OhShitItsTee

Lol it's a ka dohc stock just wheels welded diff and Megan coilovers . And it's straight piped and I'd prefer the cheap rout lol

kingJurzy

I dont see what else you may need then? It isnt worth telling you what to get if all you are going to do is buy ebay shit.

OhShitItsTee

I just want a better front end setup like lower control arms ect ..that's why I'm asking cause I don't know to much about front end suspension

rawgarage

Text me I got you.... 9792366891

EnemyS15

Step one = its a stock motor and a welded diff, come to terms that your idea of "Drifting" is more like short controlled/uncontrolled power sliding.

Step two = realize you are cheap and just need to go to ebay and buy cheap shit

Step three = stop being cheap, stop thinking you are doing to be "drifting" that 95 and save it from possible destruction


I just possibly saved another s14 from being a rolling heap of beat-up-shit.

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HORShi

Coils overs, Welded Diff, Seat...add some style (don't turn it into a fucking missile)...done.

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STEEZxIT

don't ruin that car.

proper maintenance will take you further than you think. i learned that the hard way. since you're "going the cheap route", you will not be able to afford a new engine if you blow yours. remember that when you're on ebay and you've got $50 suspension arms in your cart. spend what little money you have smartly

welded diff/bucket seat/coilovers. sounds like all you need is a bucket seat. spend the rest of your money on regular and thorough maintenance. oil is extremely important.

don't junk up that car, and despite what much of facebook will tell you, it IS possible to drift without a hoonigan sticker and with your interior intact.

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@dangerdamian

hellaslows13

All you need is a welded differential, some coilovers, and if you want to fix your alignment get adjustable suspension arms (tension, toe, camber, and traction arms).

Those would be the BARE MINIMUM. The rest you can google...

A bucket seat helps but isn't that crucial when starting out. I was drifting with an s14 SE leather seat..

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Corbic

Might as well help...

As others have said, worry about maintenance. Don't wast your money of fancy arms and crap yet since you have none of the other supporting mods.

Modifications need to be viewed as a family, with out all of them, you won't get benefits from any of them.


So,

Stock S14.

You have coils so you can lower a bit and get rid of some body roll. You can also adjust the front camber a bit.

Next you should get those steering rack spacers, it's like $80 by GKtech from Enjuku.

While installing those grab some new tie-Rods and ends. Enjuku has ISIS and Circuit Sports for like $130 a set.

Since your in there replace your front lower ball joints. Don't eBay it, you don't want it to separate while sliding and crash. Buy Moog brand from Autozone @ $60 a pop. Yes it hurts, no pain no gain. I can't stress this enough. Cheap auto zone ones are known to bust apart on the street if you hit a pot whole. Your gonna have a bad day. Buy Moog!

Since you're still in there, and you wanna race, time to update your 20 year old brake fluid. Drain it out, get some good fluid and install stainless steel brake lines ($100 from Enjuku).

Buy some good brake pads (hawk, ebc, project Mu), you don't need nor want "race pads", just any of the street pads from these brands. ~$170.

Lastly, a "drift knob" for your ebrake from Enjuku, $10-15.


So yeah, not a really cool way to spend ~$600 but that will get you some more steering angle, better braking and much needed maintenance/safety items so you can run all summer long. Spend whatever else you have on some cheap OEM wheels and tires to burn up.

Long term you need a real diff ($800-1,400), then you'll need power (turbo/V8) and bigger wheels/tires for that, then more angle and adjustability (aftermarket arms). But that's the $10k mod list.

Buy a harbor freight /Costco Alumium floor jack for $100 and some $20 jack stands if you don't have them. Throw away your OEM scissor jack. I don't want to see you ded.

TheRealSy90

Honestly, an s14 with completely stock suspesnion and a welded diff or lsd can drift all day long if you know how to drive... You already have everything you need. Stop chasing more steering angle if you can't even link a whole course.

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NISR20MO

To make a solid, DD friendly, 240 that you can have fun sliding in you don't need much.

First lets start with the basics:
Good suspension (stock is fine)
Tires with tread
Clutch that holds
Welded diff (perfectly fine for DD use if you can wrap your head around how to drive with one)

That is pretty much it honestly, adding more parts from there usually only increases the ease of drifting and the amount of angle you can use.

Once you get good on the stock stuff or break shit upgrade. The only time I found myself needing more angle was after I added coils to my stock everything and a welded diff setup. I didn't "need it" but I could certainly "use it" as I was sliding around obstacles with my steering angle maxed out the whole time...

For cheap angle just buy two 7mm spacers from PBM to use on stock style inner tie rods. If you really want to you can buy a maverick motorsports angle spacer but you may also need z32 inner tie rods like I did...

Good mods for improving feel:
S13 solid steering column bushing
S13/S14 solid steering rack bushings
Drift button
Tighten EBrake cable
Stiffer trans and engine mounts
HD clutch
Coilovers and arms as needed
Subframe/Diff bushings

For maintenance and upkeep Rockauto.com - This place is awesome especially if you know what you are looking for, skip enjuku for maintenance and light upgrades and you can get twice as much for your money.

Some examples of common necessary maintenance items:

FRONT BALLJOINTS:
S13: Rockauto.com moog front lower control arms ~40 each (why struggle with a balljoint when you can replace the whole arm and get an extra new bushing too)
S14: Rockauto.com Moog balljoints ~$30 per piece or Partstrain.com has full front lower control arms but they are ~$150 each and at that point you can get GKtech's newest FLCA's which come in stock or extended length, they should be awesome upgrades for the money)

TIE RODS: (**note** the S13 uses a different finer thread pitch than all other nissans so use S14 outers if you are changing the inners to something else)
Moog Inners and Raybestos Outers ~$20 per piece (I prefer raybestos outers as they come pre-greased unlike moog, I use maxima inners for extra length, you may want Z32 inners if you are adding a steering rack angle spacer<< I prefer maverick motorsports' version as good bang for the buck)

BRAKES:
Centric/Stoptech Street Performance pads ~$35 a set (comparable to hawk hps but at half price)
Centric/Stoptech Stainless braided lines ~$35 a pair (cheap and good quality)
Centric Premium rotors ~$20 a piece (black hat coating so they don't look rusty and super nice double disc ground finish for bedding in pads easily)

CHEAP ANGLE SET UP FOR PEOPLE WITH A FEW HUNDRED $'s
PBM forged knuckles
GKtech extended LCA's
Tension rods
Maxima inner tie rods and S14 outers

TheRealSy90

^Now that is some spot on good info. Also i'll testify to the pbm slip on tie rod spacers, when I used to run that setup when my car was fairly stock, it felt like I had all the angle in the world. They really are perfect for beginners. For some reason it was easier for me to drift at full lock with that setup as well, compared to the same angle now but having more "potential" angle with different parts. Honestly, consistency, seat time and developing your skills is way more important than how much angle you can get anyways. I've seen dudes in japan knock out killer, super angle runs with stock knuckles lol.

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Corbic

^ excellent points

OhShitItsTee

Thank you corbic ... And as in cheap I didn't mean eBay I'm not that cheap I'm gonna do it the right way I just need to know what all I need to focus on as in the front end setup for suspension . And I can drift my s14 just fine yeah it's stock but it works . i have enough friends around town ka'a to replace my motor .. And I wanted to build my suspension 1st Befor my motor cause I figured it would be cheaper to get that out of the way . I'm not turning it into a missle I plan on building the ka for boost and hopefull getting 320+ out of it then over winter buy and build a rb25

OhShitItsTee

Thanks for the help guys

Corbic

Lordy, I just saw you're a hooser.

If your near SB I got a KA24DE long block that's been sitting for 4 years with Eagle Rods, polished crank, honed, JE rings and new oil pump.

It's been sitting, so I would not run it without pulling it apart again but if your local you can have it an it's box of parts for like $125. I ain't ever gonna use it an I'm to lazy to sell it.

derek king

Im down to swoop that

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OhShitItsTee

damn logging in after 5 years just to see how shitty the 240 community it is crazy lol but on a better note i ended up buying another stock s14 3years ago that had a TRASH SR in it so blew it up and 2j swapped it cd009 + collins kit ecumasters 6266pte gktech knuckles extend lca hydro built rear r200v diff just thought id come swing my dick for the haters lol i left out a lot of other shit but if you want call my bluff you can always lurk my ig OHSHITITSTEE

relaxamigo

you're describing how "shitty" the 240 community is, then bumping your five year old thread to "swing your dick for the haters"

perhaps look in the mirror, bud

kyral

just as dumb now as you were 5 years ago...

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brndck

man. you really like the sound of your own voice, dontcha?

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TheRealSy90

You could get 320 out of that bone stock ka24 without touching the internals all day long with the right parts and a good tune.

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Bushido

Might have missed it, but I didn't see anyone mention solid rear subframe bushings (PBM, SPL). Those make a big difference. Also of importance is the steering rack bushings.

I would also suggest a quality aftermarket steering wheel and hub. The stock steering wheel filters out a lot of road feel.

...and since you have coilovers on your car: if it is considerably lower than stock ride height, it means that your alignment settings are out of spec. In order to correct the alignment, you will need adjustable arms.
Alignment can drastically alter the way a vehicle behaves.

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OhShitItsTee

I live
In mishawaka lol I'll come by one day and peep it if you give me you number . I have the white slammed zenki around town lol seeing how's there no Other ones lol

dorkidori_s13

locking this zombie dumpster fire of a thread right now!

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