Such thing as a reliable SR20? - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

SMatyac · 03-22-2013, 08:52 AM

Man this has gotten some great responses.

I know I have a really good tune on it, so that isn't a problem. Right now I am not sure what the weak link is. Because nothing really failed except the oil drain line and it has been running 32psi for a few years now and no problems except the bearing, which has nothing to do with tune or power, its just because it ran low on oil.

So I guess nothing really HAS to be changed, because its been reliable at the hp level i want. lol.

jr_ss · 03-22-2013, 09:01 AM

Pistons are the weak link of the SR when pushing higher power levels. The rods can handle quite a bit of power. Make sure you slap a new oil pump on it as well.

Future_gohan · 03-22-2013, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Elaborate.

Why not use a recommended bearing clearance measurement tool by the FSM?

I plasti gauged my bearings

I'm curious as to why he stated that aswell, sense I use plasti gauge on everything i build and i never had an issue.

SMatyac · 03-22-2013, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Pistons are the weak link of the SR when pushing higher power levels. The rods can handle quite a bit of power. Make sure you slap a new oil pump on it as well.

Yeah I think i need new pistons anyways because my rings are probably getting pretty shot and I'm getting some blow by and not great comp ratio numbers.
Yeah I'm getting the whole block boil cleaned and getting all new oil stuff because I don't want metal shavings anywhere in the motor.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-22-2013, 09:48 AM

Coming from somebody who had a built 500hp SR20...

If you're goal is 400hp, fresh stock bottom end can handle it. Like already stated, tune. I've had friends in Japan who were rocking stock bottom end, built head, hooked up to TD06-25Gs, pushing over 460whp, beats the living crap out of the car everyday for 5 yrs, and DD'd it. Car never missed a beat since he took care of it.

Anything more than 400-450hp, not a big fan of SRs. They get too laggy and makes the car not fun to drive. I was running a GT3582R and I dont get into boost till closer to 5k. Anything below 5k, car might as well be NA. Biggest weakness of these engines is oil. You have any oiling related hiccup, kiss it goodbye. Doesnt matter if its built, tuned, itll blow.

With that said, I'm running an RB25 stateside now...I like the torque but my biggest gripe is how heavy the damn front of the car feels. It might be because I'm using Mckinney mounts. I dont remember my buddy's RB25'd S14 in Japan feeling this nose heavy, using R33 crossmember and mounts.

jr_ss · 03-22-2013, 10:28 AM

I think the wheelbase and overall size of the S14 help obscure that reality. It is a bigger car than the S13, even though it's not by a whole lot.

I've often been tempted to do an RB swap, but I can't get over how heavy that motor is.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-22-2013, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I think the wheelbase and overall size of the S14 help obscure that reality. It is a bigger car than the S13, even though it's not by a whole lot.

I've often been tempted to do an RB swap, but I can't get over how heavy that motor is.

Heaaaaavy. I dont remember my buddy's car plowing like my car would. Just gotta get used to it and be quick to pull the ebrake to change angles when going sideways. I redid my suspension and is running 11k springs up front. Still doesnt feel enough.

codyace · 03-22-2013, 11:20 PM

Properly refreshed stock bottom end, GT2871, appropriate fueling and tuning

Real deal reliable 400whp setup that will last you thousands of miles, give you a fatty 4000 rpm powerband, and be fun fun fun.

Beyond that, anything is possible, but even a blindfolded monkey in zero gravity can sort out a reliable SR20 to that level using FSM spec. The issue is, most people don't follow FSM spec.

OrangeVirus1 · 03-22-2013, 11:21 PM

Here is a super easy way to keep it reliable.

Change the oil regularly.
Don't rev the shit out of it.
Keep it at Stock boost on stock turbo.

reliable for life.

Rb20 isn't that heavy. only 600lbs with transmission.

SMatyac · 03-23-2013, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1

Here is a super easy way to keep it reliable.

Change the oil regularly.
Don't rev the shit out of it.
Keep it at Stock boost on stock turbo.

reliable for life.

Rb20 isn't that heavy. only 600lbs with transmission.

Well if I never rev it and keep it at stock boost then whats the point of an sr? Definitely not for gas milage or DDability
I would have kept the KA in it if i wanted something slow. haha.

*TheRealSy90* · 03-23-2013, 04:37 PM

I threw my sr in my car 5 years ago when it came over from a junkyard in Japan.

Sometimes I don't change the oil when it needs it.
I rev the shit out of it, bang limiter every day.
Pushing 15psi on an s15 t28 among other mods.

It's never let me down in those 5 years of abuse and daily driving.

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

cotbu · 03-23-2013, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I threw my sr in my car 5 years ago when it came over from a junkyard in Japan.

Sometimes I don't change the oil when it needs it.
I rev the shit out of it, bang limiter every day.
Pushing 15psi on an s15 t28 among other mods.

It's never let me down in those 5 years of abuse and daily driving.

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

Couldn't agree more, enjoying it is more important than reliability...next thing you know 8years have past, and you're still thinking about that rebuild you should do!

codyace · 03-23-2013, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

I agree with ya!

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-23-2013, 09:40 PM

Speaking of 400hp...

We talking to the crank right? Dont mind the red line, my damn coupler blew off on the last pull...

*TheRealSy90* · 03-23-2013, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cotbu

Couldn't agree more, enjoying it is more important than reliability...next thing you know 8years have past, and you're still thinking about that rebuild you should do!

Haha exactly! People worry too much and don't enjoy what they have. I was scared when I first got mine beause people told me they always spin the bearings when you first start it after a swap. Haha, since then i've let it sit for 6 months twice and ripped the oil pan off of the engine once.

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

I agree with ya!

Thanks Cody!

jorge1190 · 03-23-2013, 10:58 PM

My SR with a refreshed bottom end with all OEM parts (bearings, rings, head gasket) and ARP head studs has been making 330 WHP for about a year and about 5k miles. I daily it sometimes, stop and go traffic, driven it 300+ miles in a day, etc. I had the car tuned relatively safe, I beat on it constantly, 8k redline and it takes it like a champ. My car is tuned on megasquirt, just ordered cams and bigger injectors for 400 WHP hopefully.

A key component to a good running SR20 is to use Rotella 15w-40 for your oil changes.

Croustibat · 03-24-2013, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jorge1190

A key component to a good running SR20 is to use Rotella 15w-40 for your oil changes.

Please dont open that can of worm.

Oil choice depends on usage and climate, anyone should use the oil that stays within nissan recommended oil pressure range, and basically that means using anything between 5w30 and 15w50 (and in some rare case 10w60 but that is pretty rare, again).

Add to the correct viscosity choice a GWO oil pump, a full synth oil OR frequent changes, and you will never have an oiling related problem.

codyace · 03-24-2013, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Croustibat

Please dont open that can of worm.

Oil choice depends on usage and climate, anyone should use the oil that stays within nissan recommended oil pressure range, and basically that means using anything between 5w30 and 15w50 (and in some rare case 10w60 but that is pretty rare, again).

Add to the correct viscosity choice a GWO oil pump, a full synth oil OR frequent changes, and you will never have an oiling related problem.

I ran Mobil 15w50 for years. Swapped to reotella with no issues!

240boi115 · 03-24-2013, 07:07 PM

been debating on going sr or keep my ka because its healthy and awesome buuut reading all this makes me want an sr20 again sooo bad!!! lol

SMatyac · 03-25-2013, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240boi115

been debating on going sr or keep my ka because its healthy and awesome buuut reading all this makes me want an sr20 again sooo bad!!! lol

Dude, options will be the death of me.
I literally have about 10 options for a car now, im debating between keeping the 240, rebuilding the motor, 1j swapping it, or selling it and getting a brand new focus st, or another e36 m3, or waiting till the srt-4 dart comes out.......... and thats not even half of them haha.
decisions decisions. lol.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-26-2013, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

I ran Mobil 15w50 for years. Swapped to reotella with no issues!

Same here...only thing about Mobil 1 is I was told by a guy who's building SRs in Japan since 92, is that he noticed that SRs that has been running Mobil 1, has this plaquey/filmy build up in the engine. Some had enough to clog up the cam drippers. He said he thinks its an additive in the oil that helps with start up/dry start wear and tear.

KiLLeR2001 · 03-26-2013, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

IMO the key to a healthy sr20 is beat on it. Mine loves it.

^ TRUF.

Stock S13 SR20DET running 5+ years strong now.

240sxdriftin · 03-26-2013, 04:27 PM

^^ right there with you, this will be the 5th summer of having mine.

dreek93sr20 · 03-27-2013, 07:25 PM

this is some good info guys....im in the air force and will be building my sr when i come back....so give me some good bolt on and upgrades...im no dummy im mechanically inclined (96 maxima boosted which i built)...literally...but hit me up on brands, specs, clearances, looking for the 350-400 hp range than ks

Croustibat · 03-28-2013, 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dreek93sr20

this is some good info guys....im in the air force and will be building my sr when i come back....so give me some good bolt on and upgrades...im no dummy im mechanically inclined (96 maxima boosted which i built)...literally...but hit me up on brands, specs, clearances, looking for the 350-400 hp range than ks

Search button. Use it.

TL;DR : slap a gt2871r on a stock SR20, with Z32 maf, injectors, FMIC, a tune. Thats it. You might want an enlarged elbow/ downpipe too.

Kingtal0n · 03-28-2013, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Elaborate.

Why not use a recommended bearing clearance measurement tool by the FSM?

I plasti gauged my bearings

Measure the crankshaft with the right tool. Measure it all the way around.
Now bolt down the mains with bearings installed using the lubrication and torque specification you will use during actual assembly. Use a dial bore gauge to measure the roundness and size of the inside.

Now compare your crankshaft measurement with your main measurement. Thats how it's done. plasti-whatever only gives you one single measurement, the space between where you place it and the (usually) top of the main cap. the bearing could be egg shaped and you would not know. the crank could be out of round and you would not know.

I do not know much about building engines, I leave that to professionals. And professionals, from what I understand, are using a dial bore gauge. Same idea when you bore the engine- are you going to use a torque plate and get round cylinders or just wing it with whatever?

Croustibat · 03-29-2013, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Measure the crankshaft with the right tool. Measure it all the way around.
Now bolt down the mains with bearings installed using the lubrication and torque specification you will use during actual assembly. Use a dial bore gauge to measure the roundness and size of the inside.

Now compare your crankshaft measurement with your main measurement. Thats how it's done. plasti-whatever only gives you one single measurement, the space between where you place it and the (usually) top of the main cap. the bearing could be egg shaped and you would not know. the crank could be out of round and you would not know.

I do not know much about building engines, I leave that to professionals. And professionals, from what I understand, are using a dial bore gauge. Same idea when you bore the engine- are you going to use a torque plate and get round cylinders or just wing it with whatever?

Plastigauge is used AFTER checking roundness. It is used to get the clearance with everything bolted, ie in real condition, to know the thickness of the bearings you need. It is not used to check roundness.

*TheRealSy90* · 03-29-2013, 01:40 PM

I've been using Mobil1 15W50 in mine the whole time also. I know it saved my engine when I ripped the oil pan off.

*StryfeS13* · 03-29-2013, 02:12 PM

My opinion on this subject - yes an SR can be reliable. They can be very reliable. It all depends on who builds it and if you maintain it like it should be maintained.

I built an SR20 for a friend of mine with ONLY supertech pistons, machine work of course, metal head gasket, and RAS. It was running an S15 T28 on 16psi. That damn thing was so much fun to drive, hit full boost almost before 3k and it took me anywhere! I would trust that car to take me anywhere in the U.S.

The funniest part about it is that I have ALWAYS hated SR's with a passion - until I built one.

DJ 21o3 · 03-29-2013, 03:25 PM

I plan on buying a Mazworx engine capable of over 500+ hp and then set it up with a good turbo and tune at 400-450hp. Sure it might cost a pretty penny but I want something close to bullet proof as I plan on beating on the car.

Doesn't matter what engine it is, it will have problems sooner or later. Especially engines running high power and pushing a lot of boost.

03-22-2013, 09:01 AM	#32
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,056 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	Pistons are the weak link of the SR when pushing higher power levels. The rods can handle quite a bit of power. Make sure you slap a new oil pump on it as well. __________________ My SR20VET

03-22-2013, 09:48 AM	#35
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Coming from somebody who had a built 500hp SR20... If you're goal is 400hp, fresh stock bottom end can handle it. Like already stated, tune. I've had friends in Japan who were rocking stock bottom end, built head, hooked up to TD06-25Gs, pushing over 460whp, beats the living crap out of the car everyday for 5 yrs, and DD'd it. Car never missed a beat since he took care of it. Anything more than 400-450hp, not a big fan of SRs. They get too laggy and makes the car not fun to drive. I was running a GT3582R and I dont get into boost till closer to 5k. Anything below 5k, car might as well be NA. Biggest weakness of these engines is oil. You have any oiling related hiccup, kiss it goodbye. Doesnt matter if its built, tuned, itll blow. With that said, I'm running an RB25 stateside now...I like the torque but my biggest gripe is how heavy the damn front of the car feels. It might be because I'm using Mckinney mounts. I dont remember my buddy's RB25'd S14 in Japan feeling this nose heavy, using R33 crossmember and mounts. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

03-22-2013, 10:28 AM	#36
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,056 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	I think the wheelbase and overall size of the S14 help obscure that reality. It is a bigger car than the S13, even though it's not by a whole lot. I've often been tempted to do an RB swap, but I can't get over how heavy that motor is. __________________ My SR20VET

03-22-2013, 11:20 PM	#38
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 36 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	Properly refreshed stock bottom end, GT2871, appropriate fueling and tuning Real deal reliable 400whp setup that will last you thousands of miles, give you a fatty 4000 rpm powerband, and be fun fun fun. Beyond that, anything is possible, but even a blindfolded monkey in zero gravity can sort out a reliable SR20 to that level using FSM spec. The issue is, most people don't follow FSM spec. __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

03-23-2013, 09:40 PM	#44
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Speaking of 400hp... We talking to the crank right? Dont mind the red line, my damn coupler blew off on the last pull... __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

03-22-2013, 08:52 AM	#31
SMatyac Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Atlanta Posts: 38 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Man this has gotten some great responses. I know I have a really good tune on it, so that isn't a problem. Right now I am not sure what the weak link is. Because nothing really failed except the oil drain line and it has been running 32psi for a few years now and no problems except the bearing, which has nothing to do with tune or power, its just because it ran low on oil. So I guess nothing really HAS to be changed, because its been reliable at the hp level i want. lol.

03-22-2013, 11:21 PM	#39
OrangeVirus1 BANNED Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: PyongYang DPRK-N. Korea, Province 2 Posts: 1,236 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Here is a super easy way to keep it reliable. Change the oil regularly. Don't rev the shit out of it. Keep it at Stock boost on stock turbo. reliable for life. Rb20 isn't that heavy. only 600lbs with transmission.

03-23-2013, 10:58 PM	#46
jorge1190 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Culpeper, Va Age: 30 Posts: 593 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	My SR with a refreshed bottom end with all OEM parts (bearings, rings, head gasket) and ARP head studs has been making 330 WHP for about a year and about 5k miles. I daily it sometimes, stop and go traffic, driven it 300+ miles in a day, etc. I had the car tuned relatively safe, I beat on it constantly, 8k redline and it takes it like a champ. My car is tuned on megasquirt, just ordered cams and bigger injectors for 400 WHP hopefully. A key component to a good running SR20 is to use Rotella 15w-40 for your oil changes.

03-24-2013, 07:07 PM	#49
240boi115 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Torrance Age: 28 Posts: 1,486 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	been debating on going sr or keep my ka because its healthy and awesome buuut reading all this makes me want an sr20 again sooo bad!!! lol

03-26-2013, 04:27 PM	#53
240sxdriftin Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Dayton, OH Age: 32 Posts: 1,377 Trader Rating: (25) Feedback Score: 25 reviews	^^ right there with you, this will be the 5th summer of having mine. __________________ IG: @bwagg88

03-27-2013, 07:25 PM	#54
dreek93sr20 Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Starkville, MS Age: 33 Posts: 113 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	this is some good info guys....im in the air force and will be building my sr when i come back....so give me some good bolt on and upgrades...im no dummy im mechanically inclined (96 maxima boosted which i built)...literally...but hit me up on brands, specs, clearances, looking for the 350-400 hp range than ks

03-29-2013, 03:25 PM	#60
DJ 21o3 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Central Illinois Posts: 353 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I plan on buying a Mazworx engine capable of over 500+ hp and then set it up with a good turbo and tune at 400-450hp. Sure it might cost a pretty penny but I want something close to bullet proof as I plan on beating on the car. Doesn't matter what engine it is, it will have problems sooner or later. Especially engines running high power and pushing a lot of boost.

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