Fresh SR swap, no power to ECU and fuel pump fuse, won't start - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

jamg · 03-03-2014, 10:41 PM

I'm done with the swap, ready for the first start, and i'm not getting any power to those fuses. my fuel pump doesn't prime, and the multi meter says im not getting any power to those fuses.

The upper/lower harness were attached and grounded before the motor was being dropped in. all of it is attached.

the green and black fuses that directly touch the battery is also hooked up and attached.

in the fuse box by the passenger side, the multi meter says all the fuses in there are getting power, except for the ECU and fuel pump.

i've already doubled checked the harness before the engine was dropped in, it's all hooked up.

the harness i am using is a wiring specialties harness.
I'm lost as to what to do. any advice?

ultimateirving · 03-04-2014, 12:34 AM

is there any relays that might be shot?
Can you try jumping the fuel pump manually to verify it will prime.

bmxer882x · 03-04-2014, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

is there any relays that might be shot?
Can you try jumping the fuel pump manually to verify it will prime.

To do this just stick a single wire in the 2 closest plugs on the relay. I believe the fuel pump is on the egi relay. In my 90, it was the middle green one.

jamg · 03-04-2014, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmxer882x

To do this just stick a single wire in the 2 closest plugs on the relay. I believe the fuel pump is on the egi relay. In my 90, it was the middle green one.

a wire directly from the battery?

bmxer882x · 03-04-2014, 01:00 AM

No, the plugs look like this
........_
-
-......._
Stick a 2 inch piece of wire between the two on the left. The closest 2

Driftwire · 03-04-2014, 05:23 AM

+1 for relay issue.

jamg · 03-04-2014, 06:15 AM

I'll try that out. The car sat for a year, I'm pretty sure its all good..

bmxer882x · 03-04-2014, 06:18 AM

also this shouldn't be the issue but you said the engine was grounded via harness, thats not near thick enough. I have 2 engine grounds directly from head to chassis and from intake mani to chassis, both being about 2 gauge in size.

sleepyS14se · 03-04-2014, 07:35 AM

is the wiring specialties a brand new harness or is it a second hand harness?

jamg · 03-04-2014, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmxer882x

also this shouldn't be the issue but you said the engine was grounded via harness, thats not near thick enough. I have 2 engine grounds directly from head to chassis and from intake mani to chassis, both being about 2 gauge in size.

i'll check for those. and if i dont have it, i'll make some.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepyS14se

is the wiring specialties a brand new harness or is it a second hand harness?

bought it used. none of it was cut up or anything though..

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-04-2014, 08:30 PM

I say message Yuri at Wiring Specialties, he should be able to give you ideas on what to check. Also, what kind of SR and into what chassis?

jamg · 03-04-2014, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

I say message Yuri at Wiring Specialties, he should be able to give you ideas on what to check. Also, what kind of SR and into what chassis?

s13 SR into S13

Flyin_bryan · 03-05-2014, 01:04 PM

check to see if the ignition wire is hot to the f4 plug. black with a red tracer. if its not hot when the ignition is triggered then thats probably the culpret.

jamg · 03-05-2014, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flyin_bryan

check to see if the ignition wire is hot to the f4 plug. black with a red tracer. if its not hot when the ignition is triggered then thats probably the culpret.

will do.

thanks

rebornS14 · 03-12-2014, 06:17 PM

was the S13 a auto before you did the swap?

kpnasty · 03-13-2014, 07:51 PM

im having this exact problem.. no ecu power, no prime, and no crank.. j4 ecu and new j4 wiring specialties harness. also jumped the EGI relay and it powered my pump. im as confused as you.

wiring specialties · 03-17-2014, 08:22 AM

Please give us a call and we will be more than happy to help you sort out the issue if you still haven't.

-Brandon

wiring specialties · 03-17-2014, 08:39 PM

Most of the time when the ECU seems dead with key on, the ECCS circuit is faulty.
Once the ECU sees ignition key on (black/red wire to 12V), it will send a ground signal from pin 4 to the ECCS relay, which will then power the sensors, including the ECU.

If that signal is not generated by the ECU, the whole system will look completely dead.
As suggested above, first step is to see if the ignition wire gets 12V. Its at the GREY 8-pin plug by the pass headlight. Check the RED wire for constant 12V. If both check out, i would say the ECCS is next. The small red/black wire in the brown connector by the headlight is the control wire. If it sees ground, i am sure all will come alive.

Any questions, just hit us up...

03-03-2014, 10:41 PM	#1
jamg Nissanaholic! Join Date: May 2009 Location: GA Posts: 2,106 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Fresh SR swap, no power to ECU and fuel pump fuse, won't start I'm done with the swap, ready for the first start, and i'm not getting any power to those fuses. my fuel pump doesn't prime, and the multi meter says im not getting any power to those fuses. The upper/lower harness were attached and grounded before the motor was being dropped in. all of it is attached. the green and black fuses that directly touch the battery is also hooked up and attached. in the fuse box by the passenger side, the multi meter says all the fuses in there are getting power, except for the ECU and fuel pump. i've already doubled checked the harness before the engine was dropped in, it's all hooked up. the harness i am using is a wiring specialties harness. I'm lost as to what to do. any advice?

03-04-2014, 12:34 AM	#2
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 33 Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	is there any relays that might be shot? Can you try jumping the fuel pump manually to verify it will prime. __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

03-04-2014, 07:35 AM	#9
sleepyS14se Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Georgia Age: 32 Posts: 880 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	is the wiring specialties a brand new harness or is it a second hand harness? __________________ 95 S14 se RB25DET 348whp

03-04-2014, 08:30 PM	#11
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	I say message Yuri at Wiring Specialties, he should be able to give you ideas on what to check. Also, what kind of SR and into what chassis? __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

03-12-2014, 06:17 PM	#15
rebornS14 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Cerritos, CA Posts: 1,358 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	was the S13 a auto before you did the swap? __________________

03-04-2014, 01:00 AM	#5
bmxer882x Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: chandler Age: 28 Posts: 370 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	No, the plugs look like this ........_ - -......._ Stick a 2 inch piece of wire between the two on the left. The closest 2

03-04-2014, 06:15 AM	#7
jamg Nissanaholic! Join Date: May 2009 Location: GA Posts: 2,106 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	I'll try that out. The car sat for a year, I'm pretty sure its all good..

03-04-2014, 06:18 AM	#8
bmxer882x Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: chandler Age: 28 Posts: 370 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	also this shouldn't be the issue but you said the engine was grounded via harness, thats not near thick enough. I have 2 engine grounds directly from head to chassis and from intake mani to chassis, both being about 2 gauge in size.

03-05-2014, 01:04 PM	#13
Flyin_bryan Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: oklahoma Age: 55 Posts: 38 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	check to see if the ignition wire is hot to the f4 plug. black with a red tracer. if its not hot when the ignition is triggered then thats probably the culpret.

03-13-2014, 07:51 PM	#16
kpnasty Zilvia Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: chicago Age: 29 Posts: 157 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	im having this exact problem.. no ecu power, no prime, and no crank.. j4 ecu and new j4 wiring specialties harness. also jumped the EGI relay and it powered my pump. im as confused as you.

03-17-2014, 08:22 AM	#17
wiring specialties Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Brookfield Posts: 398 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Please give us a call and we will be more than happy to help you sort out the issue if you still haven't. -Brandon __________________ Visit our Website - Check out our Blog - Like us on Facebook - Follow us on Instagram

03-17-2014, 08:39 PM	#18
wiring specialties Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Brookfield Posts: 398 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Most of the time when the ECU seems dead with key on, the ECCS circuit is faulty. Once the ECU sees ignition key on (black/red wire to 12V), it will send a ground signal from pin 4 to the ECCS relay, which will then power the sensors, including the ECU. If that signal is not generated by the ECU, the whole system will look completely dead. As suggested above, first step is to see if the ignition wire gets 12V. Its at the GREY 8-pin plug by the pass headlight. Check the RED wire for constant 12V. If both check out, i would say the ECCS is next. The small red/black wire in the brown connector by the headlight is the control wire. If it sees ground, i am sure all will come alive. Any questions, just hit us up... __________________ Visit our Website - Check out our Blog - Like us on Facebook - Follow us on Instagram

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