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Old 09-23-2008, 02:19 PM   #481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwr-adr View Post
A smidge off topic but we dynoed my friends s14 with blacktop. He made 272whp and not to positive on the torque but it was made on a 28rs on 15psi with a v-mount set up. It just has a downpipe back exhaust and blitz sus intake. Stock fpr, stock 370's, stock ecu getting as rich is 9.3:1 at a few points!!! Not too bad for 5,200 ft. elevation.

We recently put on a gt2871r with the .64 and is to be getting dynoed soon and tuned finally.
Um, how in the world are you getting rich readings like that? Those injectors had to have been pegged!
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:23 PM   #482
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Codyace, which cams would you recomend? JWT C1's? S4's?
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:36 PM   #483
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i might get myself a t2871r now
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:37 PM   #484
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so just put a gt2871r (.64) tubular manifold, 740cc nismo injectors, enthalpy tune, 300zx fuel filter, etc etc on my car boosted about 16psi two days later diptick shoots out turn off car clean it all up do an oil change since most of oil is missing anyways and car now smokes like crazy when i get into boost, no its not left over oil on manifol cleaned it all off white smoke comes out exhaust smells like burnt oil.... i assume my piston rings are done?
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:46 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flamebag16 View Post
so just put a gt2871r (.64) tubular manifold, 740cc nismo injectors, enthalpy tune, 300zx fuel filter, etc etc on my car boosted about 16psi two days later diptick shoots out turn off car clean it all up do an oil change since most of oil is missing anyways and car now smokes like crazy when i get into boost, no its not left over oil on manifol cleaned it all off white smoke comes out exhaust smells like burnt oil.... i assume my piston rings are done?
sounds like it. sudden mass amounts of blowby are caused by bad piston rings..small amounts are normal on NA cars and even more blowby on forced induced cars. new rings and a hone are needed. then you should be good to go. get a metal HG when you take the head off.
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Old 09-23-2008, 06:07 PM   #486
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sounds like it. sudden mass amounts of blowby are caused by bad piston rings..small amounts are normal on NA cars and even more blowby on forced induced cars. new rings and a hone are needed. then you should be good to go. get a metal HG when you take the head off.
cool i was figuring i would just build bottom end while im in there any suggestions on best bang for your buck bottom end parts ie. pistons rods bearings etc and any recommendations of things i should get while im in there
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Old 09-23-2008, 09:11 PM   #487
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Quote:
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Um, how in the world are you getting rich readings like that? Those injectors had to have been pegged!
That is exactly my thoughts. It was ran 3 times on the high boost setting all with similar numbers. My guess is that with the stock fpr and a tomei fuel pump, it is just blasting a ton of fuel through. Is it possible that they arn't seating and fuel is being forced through a little bit when they are closed? That is my guess. It is horrid on gas but no flames exact from the bee r .This was on a "dyno drag day" recently and everyone else had normal readings unless it was his three runs where the dyno metered incorrectly.
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:16 AM   #488
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Quote:
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Codyace, which cams would you recomend? JWT C1's? S4's?
It's hard to say, but this is my view on them

If you have a street car, and don't want to mess with any valvetrain components, and want to rev to 7850 safely, AND have a T2 flange (t25, t28, gt28r, gt28rs, gt2871r .64, etc) the Jim Wolf S3 cam is the way to go. Install them as oem, and instant awesomeness out of the box. Tons of low end smile inducing grunt. Response is immediate

If you have a t3 flanged car (gt30 series, t3/t4 based setups), than the Jim Wolf S4 is the way to go. It provides great midrange, and big boy top end to compliment the 30r style turbos. To me, it's just better matched for the turbo's powerband. Again, stock valvetrain safe, 7850 limit.

Now, if you want to play big boy style, and want to upgrade springs so you can sustain high R's longer, and want to take advantage of bigger lift cams, than the Jim Wolf C1 is the way to go. This cam is like a voodoo stick, as it provides great low end response for the t2 guys, abut also has some awesome topend for the t3 guys. This makes it happy for everyone. Again, aside from needing springs, it installs like stock. These cams are noted for generating even better torque 'plateaus' than the s3 and s4 cams...which is awesome.

The only downfall of the C1, is that you will probably need a 1000/1200 idle set. They are a race cam.


Now even with all of that said, it's known from the FWD world, that S4's will still work great with T2 based setups (some even argue they are the better 'overall' turbo cam), as when used in conjunction with a bigger plenum it provides some sick top end. However, IMO for ra street based car, the s3+2871r .64 is hard to beat. Fast on the roadcourse, low 11 capable, and 30 mpg cruising....can't beat that, unless you're buying a Vette haha.
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:43 AM   #489
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Im rockn C1's with a GT2871 and it pulls hard from 3000 all the way up !!!
Big Difference !!!
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:50 AM   #490
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I can't wait for winter
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Old 09-25-2008, 03:03 PM   #491
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Quote:
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so just put a gt2871r (.64) tubular manifold, 740cc nismo injectors, enthalpy tune, 300zx fuel filter, etc etc on my car boosted about 16psi two days later diptick shoots out turn off car clean it all up do an oil change since most of oil is missing anyways and car now smokes like crazy when i get into boost, no its not left over oil on manifol cleaned it all off white smoke comes out exhaust smells like burnt oil.... i assume my piston rings are done?
compression test showed time for rebuild

130 / 30 / 120 / 115
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:08 PM   #492
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so s3's and a 2871r for the street? why is 7850 the upper rev limit for stock springs? i know the cams will stop making power closely after that. are the stock springs known to float after that?
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:58 PM   #493
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i will be going with the 2871r and was wondering if it would be better to go external wastegate or stay internal? so far internal has been working fine for me on my t25.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:54 PM   #494
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Internal gate is fine until you get cams... my t28 with the gate wired open still manages to make 14 psi lol.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:00 PM   #495
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My internal wastegate on my 2871r creeps to 19 psi at high rpm. Its not too big of a deal as long as you keep an eye on it and tune for it.

Ideally with cams and once you get into the higher hp numbers with the turbo, you probably are going to be better off with a external wastegate.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:00 PM   #496
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I got internal with some HKS Step 1 264 cams and it holds steady at 17psi.... I can do more, but eh.... too much mid range for street....
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:26 PM   #497
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external is for women.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:32 PM   #498
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Internally Gated, Tomei 260's, Blitz SBS ID3 Spec R, Holds 21psi strong.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:37 PM   #499
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I was internal gated on 272's at 22psi like a rock. Never overboosted.

Im internally gated on 264's at 16psi. I have a vac and exhaust leak so it fluctuates but still reliable. External is a waste. There is a reason Garrett made these internal.

Next Holset HX in yo face. External gate dumped out my hood. Protect your women.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:42 PM   #500
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Next Holset HX in yo face. External gate dumped out my hood. Protect your women.

lol nice........
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:53 PM   #501
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:52 PM   #502
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if youre missing the oem black catch can thingy itll do that...

my 175 comp brand new rebuild does it even.
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:10 PM   #503
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Internal gate is fine until you get cams... my t28 with the gate wired open still manages to make 14 psi lol.
^^ my 2871r does the same thing! it seems kinda wierd how some setups creep and others dont. i have my controller set at 1.1bar and it creeps to 1.3ish near redline. dont really like it haha. I would rather hit 1.2bar off the bat and hold it.
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:13 PM   #504
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I fixed that by reinstalling my external gate setup

ebay manifold
ebay 38mm tial
custom dump dube


holy fuck its loud.
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:20 AM   #505
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codyace what kinda numbers can you expect with the 2871 with this setup?

tomei 256 11.5 cams
tomei 1.1mm Hg
tomei 740 cc
tomei reytec ecu
tomei fpr
with FMic ,boost cotroller, fuel pump.
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:05 AM   #506
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my setup is almost done also

2871 .86ar
tial 38mm external w/screamer
top feed 880cc
power fc
3" dp into 3.4" exhaust
BC stage 3 cams/springs kit
splitfire coilpack
jim wolf cam gears

*minor shit that kinda helps
1 piece steel driveshaft
light crank pulley
flywheel

im trying to break 400 whp. will it be possible?
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:08 AM   #507
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for some reason i am able to boost up to 26/27.5psi on my 2871R, i had the boost controller lines hooked up backwards once and it boosted 26 and 27 once when i mashed the gas in third.. it actually tore up my clutch, caused it to slip 2 times before i noticed the lines were on backwards, then after that whenever i boost anywhere above 10 psi it started slipping and now its almost done for..

my boost guage read 27.5 psi and my greddy boost controller read 25.5 psi
i always thought they would only boost up to 20psi?? or somethign aroudn that range am I wrong?
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:47 AM   #508
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well boyz im off to the dyno today! Yay!

Rebuilt Redtop

Block:
CP Pistsons 9:1 86.5mm
Eagle Rods
ACL Race Bearings
ARP Head, Main, and Rod Studs

Head:
Tomei 256/256 PonCams
Tomei RAS
Tomei Expreme Mani
Cosworth 1.1mm HG
Greddy Intake Manifold
Tomei 740cc Injectors
Aeromotive FPR
GT2871r .64a/r (internallly gated)
BC Valves (STD), Springs, Ti Retainers

TUning with Power FC L-Jetro
AVC-R for Boost Control!

Wish me Luck!
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:07 AM   #509
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Here's what I got in the works:

-Redtop with stock bottom end
-B/C stage 1 264/264 cams
-B/C springs w/titanium retainers
-Tomei 1.2mm Headgasket
-ARP headstuds
-GT2871R with .64 a/r (internally gated)
-Tomei Expreme exhaust mani
-Greddy Intake mani
-Tomei 740cc injectors
-z32 MAF
-Walboro 255lb/hr
-Nismo Adjustable FPR
-Greddy Oil Pan
-Apexi Loudmouth exhaust (no longer available from what I hear, awesome system tho)
-Trust Downpipe with testpipe
-Megan Racing turbo elbow (my only cut corner although codeyance will tell you using B/C is cutting corners )
-Enthalpy tuned ECU

I plan on running 16-18 psi and am really only looking for 350whp with around 300+ ft/lbs of torque. My only worry is I sent my ECU off to enjuku racing who sent it to enthalpy who tuned it and sent it back to enjuku who sent it to me with NO PAPERWORK so now I have to make sure everythings ok. I figured they'd at least send me something such as recommended fuel pressure or boost levels. I do, however, took the cover off the ECU and theres obviously a big chip in there. Maybe I'm just paranoid but if anyone else has an enthalpy tune maybe they can chime in if they got ne paperwork back when they sent off their ECU. Also if anyone knows exactly what they go off of for the tune I'd love to know b/c I was told just to send a sheet with every single mod I have. Anyways I digress I'm looking for conservative numbers on a safe tune for street/track use mainly drift/autocross events and possibly some open track days. I'll def be posting dyno #'s when everythings back in the car and running smooth. I forgot to mention my stock SR dynoed 210whp/198ft/lbs on the stock block running 7lbs with nothing but a front mount and exhaust (tight motor).
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Old 09-27-2008, 10:15 AM   #510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjabread View Post
if youre missing the oem black catch can thingy itll do that...

my 175 comp brand new rebuild does it even.
This makes me feel a lot better haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWayItGoes909 View Post
codyace what kinda numbers can you expect with the 2871 with this setup?

tomei 256 11.5 cams
tomei 1.1mm Hg
tomei 740 cc
tomei reytec ecu
tomei fpr
with FMic ,boost cotroller, fuel pump.
with stock intake manifold, probably like 350-360 whp, maybe like 320-330 wtq if I had to guess

Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDACEX187 View Post
my setup is almost done also

2871 .86ar
tial 38mm external w/screamer
top feed 880cc
power fc
3" dp into 3.4" exhaust
BC stage 3 cams/springs kit
splitfire coilpack
jim wolf cam gears

*minor shit that kinda helps
1 piece steel driveshaft
light crank pulley
flywheel

im trying to break 400 whp. will it be possible?
Based on what I've read, the stock intake manifold might hold you back from reaching that goal

Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86 View Post
well boyz im off to the dyno today! Yay!

Rebuilt Redtop

Block:
CP Pistsons 9:1 86.5mm
Eagle Rods
ACL Race Bearings
ARP Head, Main, and Rod Studs

Head:
Tomei 256/256 PonCams
Tomei RAS
Tomei Expreme Mani
Cosworth 1.1mm HG
Greddy Intake Manifold
Tomei 740cc Injectors
Aeromotive FPR
GT2871r .64a/r (internallly gated)
BC Valves (STD), Springs, Ti Retainers

TUning with Power FC L-Jetro
AVC-R for Boost Control!

Wish me Luck!
Good luck, this should be sick.....based on CodyAce's setup and numbers, I would guess you should be able to hit 390-390 whp with that setup if you boost to ~20 psi or so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IDriveFords View Post
Here's what I got in the works:

-Redtop with stock bottom end
-B/C stage 1 264/264 cams
-B/C springs w/titanium retainers
-Tomei 1.2mm Headgasket
-ARP headstuds
-GT2871R with .64 a/r (internally gated)
-Tomei Expreme exhaust mani
-Greddy Intake mani
-Tomei 740cc injectors
-z32 MAF
-Walboro 255lb/hr
-Nismo Adjustable FPR
-Greddy Oil Pan
-Apexi Loudmouth exhaust (no longer available from what I hear, awesome system tho)
-Trust Downpipe with testpipe
-Megan Racing turbo elbow (my only cut corner although codeyance will tell you using B/C is cutting corners )
-Enthalpy tuned ECU

I plan on running 16-18 psi and am really only looking for 350whp with around 300+ ft/lbs of torque. My only worry is I sent my ECU off to enjuku racing who sent it to enthalpy who tuned it and sent it back to enjuku who sent it to me with NO PAPERWORK so now I have to make sure everythings ok. I figured they'd at least send me something such as recommended fuel pressure or boost levels. I do, however, took the cover off the ECU and theres obviously a big chip in there. Maybe I'm just paranoid but if anyone else has an enthalpy tune maybe they can chime in if they got ne paperwork back when they sent off their ECU. Also if anyone knows exactly what they go off of for the tune I'd love to know b/c I was told just to send a sheet with every single mod I have. Anyways I digress I'm looking for conservative numbers on a safe tune for street/track use mainly drift/autocross events and possibly some open track days. I'll def be posting dyno #'s when everythings back in the car and running smooth. I forgot to mention my stock SR dynoed 210whp/198ft/lbs on the stock block running 7lbs with nothing but a front mount and exhaust (tight motor).
I dynoed 320 whp/300 wtq at 17 psi with stock cams and intake manifold, so you should easily be good for 350 whp/320 wtq at that same boost level
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