|
Home | Rules & Guidelines | Register | Member Rides | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
02-10-2012, 05:53 PM | #1 |
RB20det swap?/Reliability?
Im thnking about doing an rb20det swap and i want to know how reliable the engine is and what to look for when buying one. i got an s13 hatch. just looking to see how they are so if you got some info thatd help me out, it would be much appreciated. i already found a motor and tranny setup within driving distance, just need to know if its worth the drive.......
thankyou |
|
Sponsored Links |
02-10-2012, 06:15 PM | #2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: East Coast
Posts: 1,083
Trader Rating: (27)
Feedback Score: 27 reviews
|
The stock swap is easy enough if you buy the right mounts. No matter how you dice it up, you'll be spending X amount more dollars to replace parts and upgrade it when you want to than an SR or RB25.
The only reason to buy an RB20 is to be 'different'...some people take that either as a good thing or bad thing. I initially bought my RB20 because it was a couple hundred cheaper than an SR20. Most 20 swaps i've seen are hack jobs, I guarantee that yours will be too if you go this route just by asking these questions (no offense) but the learning curve of an RB is much different than SR/KA
__________________
|
02-10-2012, 06:18 PM | #3 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: East Coast
Posts: 1,083
Trader Rating: (27)
Feedback Score: 27 reviews
|
That being said, they are smooth as hell when they run. Power band isn't punchy like an SR and you CAN get MOST of the parts you will need. Want to run a forward facing manifold? Shell out $1,000 and time and resources installing it PROPERLY. Want to upgrade the turbo parts? Find a T2 flange and 6 bolt o2 housing because they are RB specific parts unless you buy a $1500 manifold from a real fab shop because all your choices really are ebay manifolds made with coke cans in a Burmese cave that dont fit AT ALL.
Don't boost past 8psi stock or if you upgrade exhaust and intake it will spike to 10psi and at 14psi your ceramic turbo impellers will detonate.
__________________
|
02-10-2012, 07:18 PM | #5 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: East Coast
Posts: 1,083
Trader Rating: (27)
Feedback Score: 27 reviews
|
KA koyo rad and a FMIC yes. You'll need to run pusher fans because no room inside the bay for fans. Crank pulley is like 1.5inches from the radiator
You'll also have to knock in the trans tunnel to clear the starter bulge or else you'll have problems stuffing the engine into the bay. I also run Mckinney mounts.
__________________
|
02-10-2012, 08:02 PM | #6 | |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Soo-Cali(661)
Age: 32
Posts: 590
Trader Rating: (12)
Feedback Score: 12 reviews
|
Quote:
__________________
HI HATERS! from the left to the right |
|
02-10-2012, 07:08 PM | #7 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Durango
Age: 33
Posts: 66
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
I've been DDing an RB20 swapped hatch for a couple of years. With that being said, I've had minimal problems with it. I swapped it myself using an R32 x-member instead of a mount kit and also did the wiring myself. The only problems I've had with the engine have been the coilpacks. I replaced them with some SuperSpark coilpacks and have been running great ever since.
Do all the maintenance on the engine BEFORE you drop it in...I'm talking timing belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, oil pump, water pump, etc. It is also a good time to replace the rubber water lines under the intake manifold as they are quite the bitch to get to once the engine is in. The stock exhaust manifold is T3 flanged, not T2. RB20s boost to 10-11psi stock, RB25s are 7psi. I run my stock at 13psi and haven't had any problems...that's not to say that I won't in the future. Stock turbos are shit but cheap to replace. My RB20 makes good enough power to break loose 245s on a heavy ass 17x9.5 in second gear without the clutch....and I live at 6500ft. If are down near sea-level you could expect quite a bit more pep than I'm getting. My opinion is that if you are OK with having less than 300hp, get an RB20. If you think you may want 300 or more, get an RB25. 25s are close to 300hp in stock form and are easier to upgrade for big power. |
02-10-2012, 10:57 PM | #9 | |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: St. Charles , MO
Posts: 83
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Quote:
But if your looking for a very fun and typically reliable swap for less money then a SR then the rb20 is the way to go.. I have a rb20 swapped s13 and love this motor and chassis combo.. my swap is basically stock .. FMIC,3" down pipe and wasted spark set up (stock coil packs are usually junk) and stock 10 psi. My car has been together going on 2 years now with almost zero mechanical issues and i drive my car regularly on the street, drive to all events (typically 5hrs away 700 mile round trips) beat on the car all day long doing 3rd gear clutch kicks and still able to drive car home and get 25 mpg. Honestly my swap after it was all said and done (all parts and fab work done) i came out less then what a complete SR swap done to the same level would have cost me and my car makes the same power to the wheels as a sr but my car is ALOT more fun to drive due to the power band and sounds AMAZING ..... inline 6 sounds FTW Basically any swap can be reliable OR unreliable depending on how far your willing to go to make sure your swap is NOT a hack job. PIC of my swap just cause |
|
02-10-2012, 11:39 PM | #10 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Calgary Canada
Age: 31
Posts: 626
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
|
I gotta chime in on this thread
its a really fun swap no matter how you put it together, whether you go crazy with your build or you keep it stock to mild upgrades. I've had this motor/chassis combo in my s13 for years now and i love it, powerband is so fun and i daily and drift my car competitively. I beat on the motor as much as i want and i have so much confidence in it, before my rebuild and after ( not cause i blew the motor ) and i have even more confidence with a mild rebuild. I mean as long a your sensors are in good working condition then the motor will have zero problems and if you take care of it and change the oil like you're supposed to, it'll last. heres pic of mine of the last two years. Before After please excuse the above pic. i was just finishing up and i have no more recent pics. |
02-11-2012, 06:47 AM | #11 |
Those are some clean set ups! I'm working on a RB25 right now that I am planing on bringing back to the states with me when I leave Japan. But don't know what I'm gonna swap it into yet.
|
|
02-11-2012, 08:42 PM | #13 |
Lmao! I hate TMO they take for ever with every thing! But yeah the 14 shell would be the easiest to swap it into, but I'm more of a PS13 kinda guy if I can find a vert 13 I would swap it into that shit. So you just pcs'd from oki? Had any problems tmo'ing your RB? What you pack it up in?
|
|
02-13-2012, 10:10 PM | #15 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
|
Quote:
No issue with TMO or the movers...I grease the wheel when the movers showed up. Had 5 cases of 30 pack budweiser sitting for them at the door and they literally took my whole car minus the shell. I had seats, wheels, suspension, diff, engine, tranny and a whole s14 kouki front end in my back yard. |
|
02-13-2012, 08:34 PM | #16 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
|
^ That is a nice RB20 man. Have you had any problems with that maf being so close to the turbo?
__________________
Quote:
|
|
02-13-2012, 08:39 PM | #17 |
Leaky Injector
|
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|