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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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09-26-2013, 03:23 PM | #15001 |
Bandwagon.
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might be your stock intake reservoir (bottom of the intake box)
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09-27-2013, 06:24 AM | #15003 |
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Need a new heater core. OEM replacements are easy to find... Looking for an aluminum core with metal inlet/outlet tubes instead of lame-ass plastic. Anyone know where to find one?
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09-27-2013, 07:25 AM | #15004 | |
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Quote:
Resonators and what they do: A stock system has a small bore resonator in it to remove the high frequency sounds of a small bore inline four. The resonator is what gives the exhaust note it's lower frequency sound. Aftermarket systems all have a resonator. This is why they also have a deeper sound. Muffler: You all know the oval deep tone mufflers out there. You have all heard the resonated N1(EBay, HKS, et al) systems with their lower sounds. If you want your car to sound like a inline four and keep the higher frequency sounds, get rid of the resonator, and run a straight through flowing can in back. You want it to have a lighter sound, get rid of the 3" system and run 2.25 or 2.5" with a 24" glasspack and no resonator...THAT will sound like a good old school high pitched small bore!
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09-27-2013, 07:26 AM | #15005 |
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correct, bottom of intake tract that feeds through the drivers side fenderwell
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09-27-2013, 08:07 AM | #15006 | |
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That things like a baffle / silencer, it connects to the filter box. You don't need it, but seeing as how you don't know what it is it's probably not hurting you to have it in there. You mean a stock replacement? Or universal? Universal is pretty common for restores, I see a few on Google. |
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09-27-2013, 08:35 AM | #15007 |
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I've seen the universals too... The problem is that they don't come with inlet/outlet tubes... May just end up getting one and tig some tubes on it.
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09-27-2013, 12:00 PM | #15009 |
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Hey, I have this steering wheel stuck in my head, but I can't remember who makes it.. I wanted to buy it.. Its blue suede, has the company name in red lettering on it, I can't freaking remember it, and its givin me a headache tryin to.. Anyone know which steering wheel im talking about?
EDIT: it's not sparco.. its a japanese garage, i just cant remember it
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09-27-2013, 03:55 PM | #15011 |
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Like, adjustable?
In my opinion they are one of those things that you don't need until you do. If you have some reason you need them (primarily track use, crazy stance) then sure but if you're just throwing a car together to learn to drift or whatever, I would not. EDIT: replacing ball joints and/or LCA bushings is not a bad idea. |
09-27-2013, 04:12 PM | #15012 | |
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09-27-2013, 04:33 PM | #15013 | |
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Quote:
I'm more of the longest resonator that will fit between the cat and sway bar kind of person.
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09-27-2013, 05:02 PM | #15014 |
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Anyone with a s14, a few mins, and a measuring tape mind helping me out? I cut out my radiator support/ front end to make a tube rad/front end support. I had measured the height from the top of the frame rail
to the radiator support beam. My simply amazing fiance decided to use the paper I had the measurements on to start up the grill. It's tube rolling time and I'm out measurements. Ty in advance
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09-27-2013, 06:42 PM | #15015 |
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Quick question for anyone running the Blitz carbon gauges like this, how bright are they at night? I dig the look, but in the pics I've seen, they look like they would be really distracting, but hard to tell when I cant see them in person.
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09-27-2013, 07:42 PM | #15017 |
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agreed, I used to have a cheap set of gauges in my old truck that were bright blue, had to pull the fuse after the first test drive lol. These come in black light lit too, however, wonder how bad they are compared to blue led lit ones. Trying to avoid a repeated mistake
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09-27-2013, 08:02 PM | #15018 | |
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Quote:
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09-27-2013, 08:13 PM | #15020 | |
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Quote:
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09-27-2013, 10:56 PM | #15021 |
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I blew out an axle and picked up a good condition one a few hours ago. I went to put it in and this cover and spring popped off. Anyone know if there's a way to fill it with grease again and pop it back on?
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09-28-2013, 07:16 AM | #15022 | |
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Tuning an exhaust for power and tone means using the optimal size tubing to begin with. N/A to 2.5L, even with the most aggressive cams and tuning, only make up to ~250hp, not enough to warrant more than 2.5". Any more than that will be too much for the flow that is generated. Only when an engine is capable of generating over 275hp, stepping up to a 3" system is the way to go, but then tone and tuning still have a lot to do with generated sound. The Moroso SS SpiroFlow muffler has a very nice sound to it, and can also be used as a resonator. It offers better flow, and does not drop the tone as low, but smoothes it out. It doesn't have the FM 'echo', and is actually lighter than other cans. Many of the so called 'race bullets' also make good resonators and if doubled up for rez and muffler are not overly loud like a straight blast pipe
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09-28-2013, 06:06 PM | #15023 |
Bandwagon.
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if you want a resonator, get a box one. dont get the tube ones you weld on, that barely makes any difference.
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09-29-2013, 10:40 AM | #15024 |
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Yes as long as you put just like it was before and didn't loose any of those ball bearings. Next time compress both sides of the CV joints so it won't pop out.
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09-29-2013, 03:54 PM | #15026 |
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check valves worked, i plugged the line going into the booster and car runs good now. thanks. so now the question is, how to find out where the booster is leaking, and if i can fix it or do i have to find a new booster?
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09-29-2013, 09:05 PM | #15028 |
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To make a ling story short. My buddy recently bought an s14 I used to own. Anyways, when I owned the car I had to replace the starter twice in a short period of time. After that I sold the car. Now that my buddy owns the car it's back to killing starters again. We put in two new ones and none of them work. What could be causing the car not to start? I'm horrible with wiring or anything electrical so I'm lost.
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09-30-2013, 05:34 AM | #15029 |
Leaky Injector
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I did a f fender wire tuck and now my headlights are stuck in different positions and one on n one off. My blinkers don't work either. All my wiring checks out. I have no idea what the fuck is going on. Any ideas??
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09-30-2013, 06:38 AM | #15030 | |
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Quote:
The battery goes directly to the starter The battery also goes through a 30A fused relay to the ignition switch(key), to the Clutch engagement relay, then to the starter's start switch component It is a simple system. You obviously have a short somewhere that is running high voltage and blowing part of the starter
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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