what oil viscosities does everyone use between seasons - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

codyace · 03-09-2010, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

I already installed a filter relocation so I can run an oil cooler, but after the relocation I found that my oil temp was doing well so I never bothered running a cooler.

Same here - I just found it odd that you (with a SBC) use a Ford filter hehe. Maybe its' just me lol!

But yes, a normal relocation kit IMO satifies most engines -- but i'm no engineer either.

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

All you need to know is the thread pitch. If the canister has the correct circumference then you can use whatever filter you want.

Certainly, just nice to know the info without seraching for it. Spoon fed baby! (just kidddding!).

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

Hey Cody what you mean by 5 ish and 15ish, is that PSI? Cause I rarely ever get that low... But new redline goes in before track day and come out after track day all the time.....

This is at idle, after a long session (30min or so). Your oil will be way low...around 10 or so. The 15w50 provided higher oil pressure, and even upon change at end of day, didn't have that same 'beat' smell. I shoulda really sent it away to AOAP for analysis, but I figure they'd catch on.

[email protected] Imports · 03-10-2010, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geezy

yeah, oil flush is a personal preference. my motor however wasn't rebuilt, decked, or cleaned. straight swap in right after it got here. lol. i wouldn't do it unless i wanted leaks to start popping up everywhere.

Think we have 2 totally different outlooks on what an oil flush is haha I am just talking basic... removing filter, dropping old oil, putting new oil & filter in, idling for like 5 minutes then removing filter, drop old oil, and putting new oil & filter in.

Z U L8R · 03-10-2010, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garagelu

Do you really think when nissan engineers picked the oil viscocity or deciding whether to run synthetic or conventional for this engine that they considered that we would be modifying these engines and pushing much more hp and torque over stock?

Its proven over a wide range of applications that synthetic outperforms a conventional oil.

and i don't disagree with that at all.....scientifically, logically, and on paper it SHOULD definitely work better....but from what i've seen in the real world for the last 10 years, i see less issues with conventional 10w-30 and regular oil changes.

Dave =]

mystacarlo · 03-12-2010, 10:51 PM

I live in the bahamas where we have high temps year round, i run valvoline 20w50, and never had a problem.

lazysk8er2 · 03-17-2010, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z U L8R

and i don't disagree with that at all.....scientifically, logically, and on paper it SHOULD definitely work better....but from what i've seen in the real world for the last 10 years, i see less issues with conventional 10w-30 and regular oil changes.

Dave =]

Well I just got my car running again finally (sr20) im gonna change the oil. Its not exactly that hot around here and wont be for another few months do you think I should or could go with a non synthetic 15-50 oil.

Also I have been running synthetic for a few years but just put a new turbo in. Will the change from synthetic or non synthetic change anything in a negative way? Would it be better to run a "blend"

Z U L8R · 03-18-2010, 06:07 AM

you can run a blend, then the next oil after the blend run conventional.

get castrol gtx 10w-30 when you do and see if that helps with your blow by issue.

take care,

Dave

lazysk8er2 · 03-18-2010, 12:48 PM

Thank you for your input. Also what do you consider a "regular oil change" for lets say only daily driving and seperately track sessions only.

Do you regularly change your gear oils as well? Which ones do you prefer?

I dont think I will be doing any track time or autox this year.

PoorMans180SX · 03-18-2010, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

This is at idle, after a long session (30min or so). Your oil will be way low...around 10 or so. The 15w50 provided higher oil pressure, and even upon change at end of day, didn't have that same 'beat' smell. I shoulda really sent it away to AOAP for analysis, but I figure they'd catch on.

This has a lot more to do with the 50 weight than the 15 winter weight.

I've run these:

1. 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic
2. 5w-50 Castrol Syntec
3. 2 quarts 0w-40 2 quarts 15w-50 Mobil 1
4. 0w-40 Mobil 1
5. Eneos 0w-50

in my KA24DE in the winter and the summer.

And in my experience, the Eneos made my engine smoother and more powerful than all the other oils. (This is my butt dyno, so take that into consideration). Chirping 3rd was no problem.

Then it was a draw between the Castrol 5w-50 and the Mobil 1 mix. Valvoline is good oil though.

You should realize that the "w" stands for "winter", which means that's meant for low temperatures. Anything you can do to make that number lower is going to help decrease wear on startup.

The end number is how the oil flows when it is hot. It's been proven on the dyno over and over again that numbers in the 40 and 50 range make more power. I believe BMW M5's and M6's run 10w60.

Running conventional is stupid btw.

*slider2828* · 03-18-2010, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lazysk8er2

Thank you for your input. Also what do you consider a "regular oil change" for lets say only daily driving and seperately track sessions only.

Do you regularly change your gear oils as well? Which ones do you prefer?

I dont think I will be doing any track time or autox this year.

Answer is yes.... Oil is cheaper than an engine rebuild. For street driving 3500 miles and I use redline 10-30 all year around. Never gets too hot or cold in NorCal...

Quote:

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

This has a lot more to do with the 50 weight than the 15 winter weight.

I've run these:

1. 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic
2. 5w-50 Castrol Syntec
3. 2 quarts 0w-40 2 quarts 15w-50 Mobil 1
4. 0w-40 Mobil 1
5. Eneos 0w-50

in my KA24DE in the winter and the summer.

And in my experience, the Eneos made my engine smoother and more powerful than all the other oils. (This is my butt dyno, so take that into consideration). Chirping 3rd was no problem.

Then it was a draw between the Castrol 5w-50 and the Mobil 1 mix. Valvoline is good oil though.

You should realize that the "w" stands for "winter", which means that's meant for low temperatures. Anything you can do to make that number lower is going to help decrease wear on startup.

The end number is how the oil flows when it is hot. It's been proven on the dyno over and over again that numbers in the 40 and 50 range make more power. I believe BMW M5's and M6's run 10w60.

Running conventional is stupid btw.

I run built SR and I tried 40 weights and 30 weights, and I seem to love 30 weights. Personally it depends on the engine really... All engines respond different to motor oil.

I have run, Castrol GTX, Mobil 1 (Complete Shit I might add), Eneos, Royal Purple, Redline, and Amsoil....

Hands down Amsoil is the best, but its 14 bux a quart. Best thing I ever ran in a good price range is redline. The thing makes your turbo spool much better retains heat and integrity really well. Mobil 1 never does that, Royal Purple, that is just crap, but I run it on my daily TL its better the mobile. For conventional/syn blend, Castrol GTX is the best shit on the market and good price too.

Try Redline.... Once you do, you'd never go back. You can really feel and hear the turbo spin. It lubs the turbo really well as even after you shut off my car, you can still hear the turbo spinning around. Its really nice oil after beating the crap on the track with it, it doesn't brown or smell at all. Its an awesome oil.

O BTW, Amsoil for ALL gear oils.... Its the best EVER! Amsoil Transmission and Transaxle oil for the tranny and sever gear oil 75-90 for the diffy.... It makes things very very happy. I change those oils about every 6 months to about 9 months, depends on how often I drive my car, which is not a daily.

codyace · 03-21-2010, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Running conventional is stupid btw.

I've got a few vehicles with over 500,000 that would say otherwise....A good conventional oil, serviced regularly, won't make any difference. Granted these are in big trucks, but the point applies the same - high heat, BIG stress, and constant abuse.

These are street cars, not race cars. There are PLENTY of people with daily driven cars that see much more brutal street time, that run the cheapest of the cheap, that put more miles on their cars in traffic than some do on their 'play car' that don't have issues

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

Try Redline.... Once you do, you'd never go back. You can really feel and hear the turbo spin. It lubs the turbo really well as even after you shut off my car, you can still hear the turbo spinning around. Its really nice oil after beating the crap on the track with it, it doesn't brown or smell at all. Its an awesome oil.

I just can't bring myself to buying good oils. I change before and after every track session, regardless.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

O BTW, Amsoil for ALL gear oils.... Its the best EVER! Amsoil Transmission and Transaxle oil for the tranny and sever gear oil 75-90 for the diffy.... It makes things very very happy. I change those oils about every 6 months to about 9 months, depends on how often I drive my car, which is not a daily.

Rotella 80w/90 in both for me. Can't beat big rig gear oil. Just as greengold as new when I change them every year.

spiderlone · 03-21-2010, 09:23 AM

Winter I run 10w-30 non synthetic castrol high mileage baby! Summer time I use 20w-50 castrol high mileage! Woooo. Never ever ever had any problems what so ever! with my Sr's.

03-18-2010, 06:07 AM	#36
Z U L8R Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Georgia Age: 39 Posts: 1,194 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	you can run a blend, then the next oil after the blend run conventional. get castrol gtx 10w-30 when you do and see if that helps with your blow by issue. take care, Dave __________________ RB25 280z GT30/76R 441hp/381tq [email protected]

03-21-2010, 09:23 AM	#41
spiderlone Nissanaholic! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Los Angeles (213) Age: 36 Posts: 1,766 Trader Rating: (32) Feedback Score: 32 reviews	Winter I run 10w-30 non synthetic castrol high mileage baby! Summer time I use 20w-50 castrol high mileage! Woooo. Never ever ever had any problems what so ever! with my Sr's. __________________ -- SPIDER* --*

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03-12-2010, 10:51 PM	#34
mystacarlo Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Nassau, Bahamas Posts: 77 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I live in the bahamas where we have high temps year round, i run valvoline 20w50, and never had a problem.