sil14zenki

how many of you guys are running a greddy plenum?
i know you lose that low/mid range response
but is it really that noticeable? is it worth it for those extra ponies
i only ask because i came up on a great deal for
a greddy plenum just don't want to sacrifice to much response
as of right now i'm running 2871r .64ar on stock mani with exwg. 264cams 810inj. 87mm pistons manley rods etc.
either way i will probably purchase the mani cause its a steal.
but just wanted some insight on people that are running it
any advice is greatly appreciated in advance.

EsChassisLove

I didn't loose response with my plenum.

In fact, I have better response than 90% of 2871 SRs that I've seen.

And I make over 250wtq at 3500rpm. Before timing was retarded it was making 270wtq at 3500.

Maybe I just have an amazing tuner haha.

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codyace

The age old debate of stock intake manifold vs greddy really should cease to exist. Will the stock *maybe* make better power 2000-3800? Sure....but who on eath is EVER in that range when using their car this side of daily driving and pulling out? No one. Heck the 2871r isn't even full spooled down there....so who cares.

To me the plethora of advantages from the Greddy (and even the Freddy) are worth the swap alone. Better average power, better average torque, more top end ability, easier to change the oil filter, easier to work on the car etc etc. There isn't anything IMO that is a positive over the Greddy aside from the super low rpm/out of spool area that I could care less about. Heck when I daily my car, I hardly ever take it above 3k in town...that's how I get good fuel mileage




I'm close, but I'm also not running any timing on my JWT ECU. Keeping it together :P Remember the sudden torque surge at low RPM is a mixed blessing...it's super fun,but can also kick a rod.

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idahotuner

page 100 this thread has come a long ways

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codyace

Yeeesh 100 pages already huh? We are insane!

Can't believe I posted on page 1 of this thread

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4-20sx

Cody. I give it up to you. Even though I sold my s14. Your still my hero lol

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idahotuner

haha thats going a little far man, my gt2871 setup would have lasted if i had kept my crank case set up stock

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sil14zenki

Thnx cody always giving good advice. i guess i just didnt want it to be a waste or over
kill for the 2871r. i will def be picking it up.

Jersthecool

Hopefully if I get my engine running properly and I have the extra budget I'll take it in to get a retune and see what kind of numbers I'm pushing. I'm probably gonna run my sr on 16psi now should I stick to 91 octane or would it be worth it to make the jump to 94 (only a few stations in my city have it)

801nismo104

91 is fine. but if i had 94 locally i would totally use it

idahotuner

what boost controller are you using with the 44mm gate cody

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mattsil80wis

cody runs a greddy profec type s like the one im selling

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/49110...y-n62-maf.html

and he also runs a 38mm gate

shameless little plug there to sell parts haha ::hi cody::

Jersthecool

Yeah I know 91 is fine and that's probably average for our city but would there be any increase in power going with 94 or would it not be justifying enough to switch?

mattsil80wis

i know with JWT tunes, it is tuned for 91, but we run 93 in NJ/PA area. Which wont cause any issues just makes it safer if you get a bad bach of gas. Also it allows you to put in 87 incase gas stations dont have super (whatever octane it may be) just so you can get home without doing much damage to the car (as long as your driving careful and not beating the piss out of it)

codyace

Thanks for the good words guys


I always suggest to people that you should run when you can keep in the car. If 93/94 is no issue to always have in the car, then tune it for it. I however like being a little on the safe side, as you can't always get 93 around us, and atop of that you can always get bad/old gas that doesn't work as well fresh fuel. I'd rather have a little less timing and keep things koesher/safe from any random detonation issues, than push it. Atop of that when I'm 15/20 minutes into a track session in the middle of summer, I don't want to risk the engine when I'm WOT.

As Matty pointed out, it's a Greddy Type S, very similar to the Greddy profec B Spec 1. I'm also using the 38mm MVS. I initially had the 2 bolt flange on there but the constant hold/cold on the track caused the bolts to always back out....screw that. Vband for life.

I'd say you could see 10more average hp and trq, if not 15 using 94 vs 91.

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EsChassisLove

Tuning is where you pull power from when you're switching to higher octane.

A lot of people thing they can just dump it in and have a magical 10hp more. Lol.

I enjoy hearing so many people at work talk about dumping 110 octane from VP into their tanks before racing, as if it gives them another 20whp.

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idahotuner

awe, was wondering if u used a avcr, i got mine set up real good with an internal gat, but setting up duty cycle and such is harder on these 44

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guitaraholic

Actually, it's quite a valid reason. Especially if you are doing some road racing. I remember my intercooler getting somewhat heat soaked at Sebring because of the constant on boost time (and I have a big FMIC). Hotter air means more chance for detonation. Racing gas will give a greater margin of safety. If however, you are doing it for power, depending on your application, you might make more,, you might make less. If your call is tuned to the raggid edge, it might make more, esp if you turn up the boost. If on the other hand your tune is conservative, and have a good deal of safety built into it, you might actually make less.

codyace

Oh without a doubt...I should have been more specific for sure..I often assume everyone understands the basics

The type s is nice and easy for me. Set the gain to where I want it, and then select low boost. Floor the car, turn knob until desired boost...push button in/switch to button two. Repeat.

Super easy


Fair points too. When it is super hot out, I'll add a teeny bit of toulene to my gas. At the ratio I use it takes 93 to 96ish or so. Just some safety

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BlackZenkiS14

That's funny, I run a Greddy ProfecB spec1 myself. I love the old school simplicity as well.

If I could only find a set of cams for sale now! Someone sell me their s3s!

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EsChassisLove

I might be upgrading to S4 or S3HL soon from my S3s lol

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di-devol

My shit blew up, goodbye thread :/

BlackZenkiS14

Lol lets do this!

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gotta240

damn. Sorry to hear. Explain!!!!!!!

di-devol

Ran lean, could never figure it out lol. Re-wiring the whole care because of it.

riptor

what size injectors/ duty cycle you running?

Def

On a DET engine I agree. I was one of the few people I've seen that put a FReddy on before cams to smooth out the torque hump the stocker gives up to about 4-4.5k RPM and give some more top end. It smoothed things out in the midrange, and did add a tiny bit. But the stock cams really hold an SR back around 280-300 rwhp.


That said, the low end hit on the FReddy was very minor compared to 264/264 HKS Step 1 cams. Like if the FReddy took away 4-5 ft-lbs (at most), and the cams took away about 15-20 ft-lbs below 3k RPM. It seriously softened the bottom end of the engine, and made dropping out of boost a very bad thing on track.

That's one thing I'm looking forward to on the VE head. Drop out of boost and you're on the small cam which then can pull you back into boost and kick the high cams on.

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S14DB

I'm wondering if the same thing is true for the S14/15 VTC. Shouldn't see much of a hit from the manifold with the 20* engaged.

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Def

Probably not much. The GReddy manifold/plenum for the VTC motors doesn't shorten the runners near as much for the S13 SR. So I imagine that plus VTC would see a very minimal hit on the down low torque.

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EsChassisLove

Makes me wonder how much low end tq I would have if I kept my stock manifold.

God I can't wait to change this inter cooler, get a test pipe and retune. Hoping to advance timing more and push the powerband to the left even more.

During my last tuning my intake temps were at 90* on a 50-60* night. Power killer for sure.

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