Myke

Galmteam if u can post those pics and vids I sent u feel free, also could this just be blowbye coming out and smoking and sooting ?

GalmTeam

no, no, no the drain side is that tube that connects to a rubber hose on the bottom of the turbo. The drain is fine and has an inside diameter that is larger than most -10AN lines.

Worst case you just put the restricted banjo on the engine block if you took out the whole line. If it is indeed still running with the restrictor im surprised it the turbo is working fine as it's a journal bearing.

ANd the oil could be blowby as well which some people tend to get in RBs when they start raising the boost. One thing you *could* do is loosen the oil filler cap to relieve any pressure that might cause the blowwby. Drive around for a bit and see if you get any oil in the intake pipe. If there is no oil then you could say that it was just blowby, install baffled catch can and that should solve most of the problem.

Croustibat

That tube is oil recycling vapor. Again, oil would not go through it, unless you use very poor quality oil or have blocked breathers. You could try to change the breathing system and vent to atm, but if you do, do it with someone's help. If you screw this up, you will either be creating a huge boost leak, or block completely the breathing system.

Also, when your previous turbo blew up, did you clean the intercooler ? The oil you found might be coming from there.


No. The oil drain size is not pressurized, it needs to be as big as possible to avoid that. Oil coming out of the turbo by the drain usually looks more like foam than oil.

I think you have the breather problem. The turbo would have developed a lot of play if it was starved, really. It looks more like the oil is going through turbo seals, and this happens with clogged breathers. Fix these, it is very cheap to do ( basically it is free, only time needed ... worst case scenario, you would need to change the hoses and maybe a 1way valve, which are worth peanuts).


A good indication of the breathing system is shown when looking at the inside of the valve covers. If they are covered in slimy/black shit, it means that engine has not had regular oil changes / quality oil , and the breathing system must be cleaned or bad things are going to happen.

Myke

Ok I'm running 10w40 , as far as "breathers", I've put a brand new pcv valve and check valve that goes from the brake booster to mani, clearly I'm missing something which is why its smoking, I can't emphasize enough that its more bothersome to other drivers when I let off the gas and such, as far as pure turbo goes I called , text the dudes cell and sent an email so will see, I've checked other people's catch can setups but almost everyone dosnt have this maf tube no more.croustibat, thank u also for helping me try and solve this problem as I've been sharing my videos and pics with galmteam to get his input. Hopefully this is a venting issuse and nothing more

Croustibat

You are running some 10w40, but you dont know what was run for the previous 15 years, nor the change frequency.

Also, 10w40 is an indication of viscosity, not of quality. If you want quality oil, get 100% synthetic, nothing else. "Half" synthetic is bullshit, it usually means 5% synthetic 95% mineral. mineral oils need frequent oil changes, 100% synthetic last way longer.

You need to know if it is the correct viscosity for your engine and your driving conditions, and for that you need (again) an oil pressure gauge. Nissan recommands a pressure range when hot at mid rpm and a minimum pressure at idle. You can find these values in the FSM. Brand new, a 10w40 should be in the correct range, but when it is worn it should go thinner when it is mineral (that is the reason racers 10 years ago used 20w50 oils, as it could transform into a 5w30 very fast. Actual synthetic oils are much less sensitive to wear and will keep their grade for their whole life). So only test when your oil is new.

If a fresh 10w40 gives you low readings, you need a new oil pump, fast. Not thicker oil, unless you always drive it in very high temp weather, but then i'd recommend increasing the "hot" grade, aka going 10w50. Pressure, in oil as in boost, is an indication of flow resistance. Thicker oil means more pressure at the expense of less flow, and a worn oil pump with even more flow resistance will not produce enough flow to keep the engine alive for long. It will also increase oil wear rate, oil temp and global engine temp.

I remember i killed oil in 2000 miles when i had a worn oil pump ... i changed it and can now run thinner oil (which is cheaper, too) for 7000 miles. With more power, and less cooling.

Basically, always run the thinnest oil your engine can cope with, in terms of oil pressure range, temp range (hot oil grade is given for 100°C oil, if you usually run 110/120°C oil get a higher oil grade. If you are getting lower than 90°C oil temps... step on it, dont be a pussy ! ) and oil consumption and hydraulic lifters (some used hydro lifters dont like 5Wxx oil for example).

Myke

I do kno for the last 4 years it has ran what I've said , but I don't wanna get off topic and now talk about oil viscosity lol but that was helpful info

GalmTeam

ok, here are the vids:

Dyno run 1st to 4th
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6sPgIkLQnk


Pure Turbos RB25 turbo on RB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxQHJ2WSH3E


Noticed your car shoots a bit of smoke near the end of the dyno run. Is that the smoke you mentioned earlier when you drive around?

It does look at least like oil is being pushed though the seals. Start with cheapest and easiest solution which is what Crousti mentioned about the breather system and having it cleaned. Also since it's easily accessible i would pull out the oil feed banjo bolt and confirm if it has a restrictor or not. If it's restricted i would replace it with a normal M12x1.25 banjo bolt and see if it helps reduce that ticking noice


As for the ticking...it's quite loud and it could be a number of things. Hell it could even be the turbo shaft being off balance. But it almost sounds as if the turbine wheel is struggling to spin. Was it always making the ticking noise? And it's coming specifically from the turbo? No exhaust leaks around the turbo or exhaust manifold?

Myke

Ok what do u mean clean the breathers? I got brand new pcv valve yesterday, still smokes on decel ,as for the ticking its not that loud in person my phone happend to amplify it,all the gaskets are brand new when I put it back on, I will pull the oil feed line and let u kno what it looks like

Myke

And yes this is the smoke I've been refuring to,

Myke

If it was a blown turbo seal or something wouldn't it smoke constantly ? It did with my blown neo I sent in as a core

[email protected]

Myke please give me a call at the shop, you know I am always here to help. We did not even you know were having issues with the turbo or that you were trying to get a hold of us. As for the actuator, it was sent in on the core or exchange turbo. In no way were we trying to scam or steal an actuator.

gretz

How much play is there in the shaft of the turbo? (In and Out)

Looks like a blown turbo to me

Croustibat

Clean condensing plates and hoses. These plates are usually at the top of the valve covers.

this happens when you dont (although this one is extreme)
http://200sx.kicks-ass.net/album/alb...=deji&cat=5064

jtl260z

Myke,
Have you figured out whether or not your issue is with the turbo?
I contacted Pure Turbos about buying their turbo for my RB but I haven't bit the bullet yet.

Thanks,
J

[email protected]

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Myke

I haven't found out yet about this problem, as far as the feed line i was never told it had to be swapped as it was a direct replacement turbo, if its direct it should just drop in with no other issue so I was totally unaware as I knew. Charles is trying to correct the issuse as we speak so well see

jtl260z

Good luck. I hope it isn't a major problem. Please post your results.

J

gretz

I noticed this but left it alone... after seeing the "excuse" response about the line, they are definitely trying to push blame before they even know what the issue is...

[email protected]

We did tell you. Check your oil line. Let us know if it's restricted. Please call the shop anytime with any questions or concerns. Thanks

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[email protected]

No one is blaming or pointing fingers. All our customers are forewarned of the possible restrictor. The oil pic line is for those who don't understand where to look for the restrictor. Others have been looking in the banjo bolt. It's in the line...

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jtl260z

Jesse,
You say you need a minimum of a 0.065 restrictor. Does that mean that you can run a bigger line (say a AN-4) without any issues?

Thanks,
J

59bhp

if your restrictor is too big the oil pressure in the turbo will overcome the the seals and will start burning oil

jtl260z

That's what I was thinking. If this was my product, I would consider supplying the appropriately sized feed line or at least having it as a purchase option.

gretz

What I do know, from being there like all other enthusiasts, is when you are unsure and not comfortable doing a mod to a car, you remember and go off the manufacture's suggestions like gospel as to not mess it up.. I'm pretty confident this particular member would have retained you intallation instructions if they had been given

jtl260z

I looked back at Pure Turbos original post about this turbo... It does state that a larger feed line might be required.

Myke

It may state that but I directly talked to them and was told this was a stock replacement. I was never told I may or may not need additional parts to make it work correctly"stock replacement " otherwise I would have purchased whatever else may have been needed, I also thought it may come with the correct restrictor if needed but since it didnt. I went back on the stock replacement theory and now this. They have contacted me about sending a new line for this turbo so will see how it goes if the damage already hasn't begun

59bhp

each turbo has different requirement with regard to oil flow and pressure, once you change from stock to any other kind of turbocharger, the requirements need to be identified.

It sucks they might not have explained it but they also could of just assumed you knew, its quite common knowledge when you start changing turbo chargers however not exactly helpfull if you didnt know.

[email protected]

It depends on your oil pressure but generally speaking, yes. Engines with high oil pressures (like hondas) use a -3 line with no restrictor or a -4 line with a 0.065" restrictor. For the RB motor, a -3 or -4 line with no restrictor should work OK. RB Engines with high oil pressure should still run a 0.065" restrictor.

Thanks

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[email protected]

Myke, we told you so many times on the phone about the restrictor. Remember Chuck walking you through it? Regardless, it's a non-issue. If your your turbo is damaged from the restrictor size, send it in so we can get the turbo fixed. If you just simply call and talk to us you will find we have better customer service than other turbo companies. We're here for you! It's not a big deal! Let's get that thing fixed so you can enjoy your car!

Thanks

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[email protected]

By the way: shhhh don't tell! It's classified!

We have developed a new even faster spooling RB upgrade turbo. It utilizes a smaller turbine wheel which flows like a GT30R turbine wheel. It runs a 53mm exducer. We have 3 RB turbos going out this week with the new fast spool turbine. We are looking forward to exciting results!

Thanks

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