Starter install (help)

[YakuzaS14]

a week ago i started hearing noises and my car wasnt starting right it progressed and two days ago it wouldnt start so i hit the starter while i was clicking my remote start :naughty: and it started so i knew it was my starter that had a problem so i got a new one from pep boys, bosch life time waranty one today.
i took out my starter and the it looked fine so i m guessing the solenoid went bad so anyways here is some pic of it
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/6431/picture0016he.jpg
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/4206/picture0059zz.jpg

so i put on the new starter but i dont think i put it on right it seems a little tilted i dont know if i m paranoid or it is really tilted. anyways i tried starting it makes noise that weird grinding noise but it started up. when key is on engine off it makes a weird noise and when i try starting it, it starts but still makes noise i dont know what to do. i couldnt check the status of the flywheel becuase i m doing this in my garage. and there is no room to do shit

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5095/picture0092pr.jpg

my car is 96.

[projectRDM]

Pull it back out and compare the two. I've seen a lot of reman starters using a different front snout and there's not an indention to clear the IACV hardline. That's more than likely your problem because it's hitting the line and not sitting flush against the block.

[95Blue240sx]

Does it sound like a whine? Sometimes with reman itll sound different cause of the the components. When i sell remans at my work they are identical to the ones that we bring in, but people come back complaining about the whine. Its no big deal. I have a reman orange county starter in my s14, when i first put it in in whined, now it doesnt. I dont remember what my starter looks like, but i didnt have a problem with my reman starter.

[Tenchuu]

unbolt the bolt that holds the hardline right abolve the seliniod on the aftermarket starter. This should give you the clearence to "pop" the starter into place properly. i am having the same problem right now, the rattler while starting noise. Only difference on my setup is that i think that since my remote kit is useing the starter + terminal as a "piggyback" point to connect the battery in the rear to the distribution box up front that the clearence issues may have arised from ther being two connectors on that one post. When the + battery cale hits that tube above said aftermarket starter, it ground out and kills the car / makes horrible noises. bad juju. with that hardline loose, the starter will go in flush insted of tilted. as far as sounding like shit. it might just be the starter.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=95170
watch out for that^^^

edit my bad now it kinda makes sense. What the f**k was i thinking. not only buzzed, but sleep deprived too!

[projectRDM]

unbolt the bolt that holds the hardlive right bolve the seliniod on the aftermarket starter. i am having the same problem right now. only mine the + battery cale hits that line and ground out and kills the car. bad juju. with that hardlie loose, it will go in flush insted of tilted. as fa as sounding like shit. i think those starters just do.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=95170
watch out for that^^^

and the same thing unbolt for clearance to mount the dam thing in flush. i remember it took a bit of work. i attached the bottom one a little. the torqued the top bolt until it "popped" in flush, then finished off tightening the bottom one. also i had to undo a few brackets to make it easy for my hand to fit in there easy.

You definitely weren't sober when you typed that son of a bitch above.

[Tenchuu]

I will get back to you on the starter thing, I just re-did my battery relocation kit and it now goes all the way to the front, then into a 8 gauge disrtibution block, splits, and sends power back to the starter via stock starter cable. this also allowed me to use the stock rubber cover to go over the + terminal on the starter selinoid. hopefully all battery problems/starter grinding/ringing goes away., and it is a simple matter of bending the tube brackets to make things work for you like it did for me.

After consulting the FSM i found this diagram:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/starter2.jpg

[NemeGuero]

That came from the FSM?

[Tenchuu]

nah but it sounded good after all my hard photoshop work :duh: but it could be on the back of the foldout on the euro version.....

[NemeGuero]

Euro FSMs are tight! I want one!

[Tenchuu]

it's official doing the above stuff fixed my problem. no grinding or pinging when i try to start. also no battery dieing anymopre, and no turn the key just to hear a click and no starting. everyhting is well with that bent hose bracket and the stock plastic boot over the + starter terminal.

[YakuzaS14]

ok its working i took it to my friends shop. took a look at it on the lift. the egr metal hose the one u have on photoshop wasnt clearing it. so we bent it a little so it would clear. he did some other shit while i wasnt looking. but it didnt cost my anything. and also if u ever do this make sure the starter is on there flush and there is no space like the one on this pic
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6314/starter24mw.jpg

[projectRDM]

IACV pipe, not EGR, just like I said three days ago.

[YakuzaS14]

^^ i thought it was egr my bad

[projectRDM]

^^ i thought it was egr my bad

I'll call off the dogs.