input shaft bearing replacement

[aznpoopy]

clutch engaged
transmission in neutral
= whirring noise

bad input shaft bearing?

does anyone know whats involved in replacing the input shaft bearing beyond the obvious?

is it feasible for a diy weekend amateur? i have spare trannies lying around so i'm thinking about trying it this summer.

from some limited searching on FA it seems you pull the tranny out of the housing (duh), do a little dissassembly and then press it off and press the new one on.

heres a pic i pulled off FA.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/kirinpoopy/02568ed1.jpg

is this it?

[max_misawa]

press the pedal all the way to the floor
while the car is running
if there is noise it is inside the transmission

Max

[NemeGuero]

press the pedal all the way to the floor
while the car is running
if there is noise it is inside the transmission

Max
Good job adding NOTHING to the post.

I have the same whine, think its the same bearing. Does the FSM outline the process at all? I was in the market for a new tranny 'cuz I didn't think it was something I had the tools for..

[max_misawa]

Good job adding NOTHING to the post.

I have the same whine, think its the same bearing. Does the FSM outline the process at all? I was in the market for a new tranny 'cuz I didn't think it was something I had the tools for..

the OP said clutch engauged
which means there is no pressure on the pedal
you might want to get off the high horse of yours:mrmeph:

you have to depress the pedal all the way to the floor to release the transmission, granted that the hydrolics are working properly

i mean it would suck to take the transmission out and apart to buy 100 dollar bearing?
just to find out it was just the TO or pilot which is a 20 dollar fix

Max

[aznpoopy]

i know the difference between different bearings noises

and i've been through multiple used trannies already; yes i use new t/o and pilot.

clutch engaged, pedal up = your tranny internals are moving; noise is in the tranny
clutch half engaged, pedal midway = any noise is t/o bearing
clutch disengaged, pedal on the floor = pilot or t/o bearing

if you depress the clutch and there is noise, the problem is not inside the transmission.

[aznpoopy]

fresh alloy post (http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB27&Number=67991140&Forum=All_Forums&Words=input%20shaft%20bearing&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=67991140&Search=true#Post67991140)

here's some info

looks like you need a shop press
bearing seperator
maybe some kind of puller
basic tools of course

[NemeGuero]

the OP said clutch engauged
which means there is no pressure on the pedal
you might want to get off the high horse of yours:mrmeph:

you have to depress the pedal all the way to the floor to release the transmission, granted that the hydrolics are working properly

i mean it would suck to take the transmission out and apart to buy 100 dollar bearing?
just to find out it was just the TO or pilot which is a 20 dollar fix

Max



i know the difference between different bearings noises

and i've been through multiple used trannies already; yes i use new t/o and pilot.

clutch engaged, pedal up = your tranny internals are moving; noise is in the tranny
clutch half engaged, pedal midway = any noise is t/o bearing
clutch disengaged, pedal on the floor = pilot or t/o bearing

if you depress the clutch and there is noise, the problem is not inside the transmission.

He already knows where the noise is coming from, my previous post holds.


Thanks for the link, damn though, it looks complicated. Let me know if you do it and how it goes. LOL

[JigokuZ]

I've replace the input shaft bearing in my transmission. Just make note of the depth of the bearing so when you drive it back on. You'll have it in the same spot. Driving it too far will grin against the gear. Use a long arm claw to pull it off. and use a brass pinch and hit the inside to get it on. Blow alway all brass metal when installing it back.

check your input shaft seal. Replace it if it looks bad.

[aznpoopy]

i figured someone on these forums had to have done it before. thanks for the info man.

the reason i think this looks doable is because the bearing is seated right on the end of the input shaft. no need to pull off 20 gears and bearings and synchros etc to get to it.

pull out the tranny with a bit of disassembly, mark where it sits, pull it off with a puller and drive the new one back on. resassemble, done and done. is that pretty much the whole job?

[NemeGuero]

and while you're in there.. what else is good/easy to replace?

[JigokuZ]

i figured someone on these forums had to have done it before. thanks for the info man.

the reason i think this looks doable is because the bearing is seated right on the end of the input shaft. no need to pull off 20 gears and bearings and synchros etc to get to it.

pull out the tranny with a bit of disassembly, mark where it sits, pull it off with a puller and drive the new one back on. resassemble, done and done. is that pretty much the whole job?

yup.. that's about it.. but make sure you get a "long arm claw puller" with two or three hooks. And if you don't have a brass pinch. Just use a screwdriver but be very careful and only hit the inside of the race. And get a tube of red RTV. Once you take those bolts in the middle off both half comes apart. RTV it very good or it will leak. Also you need a snap rap piler or a screw driver. For the snap ring that's around the bearing. The snap ring will be a little fun.

And when you take the cover off inside the bell housing there will be shims, They are for counter shaft end play. Don't LOOSE THOSE.

I also recommand that you call around make sure that whoever you're getting the bearing from have them in stock. When I got mine it costed me around $35 bucks. And if you get a bearing with plastic bearing casing it's even better. Because it will run cooler than then stock metal casing.

NemeGuero.. well... the rest of my tranmission looks good. The synros are worn a little but it's not badly damage. So I didn't do anything else to it. But like I said. If your input shaft seals have even a little tear on it. I would replace it.

I've covered almost everything and any possible fuck ups... just take your time. Don't be a bull in a china shop. It should take less then an hour and a half if you have everything in front of you. Keep in mind.. there's like 5-6 bearing in the KA transmission... spin the input and make sure it the input shaft bearing.

Edit: and also don't get the reverse and the other senders switched or you'll have no reverse light. And yes you will have to take those off senders off (there's 2) in order to get the transmssion apart.

[theicecreamdan]

I spun that bearing... no fun.

[Al_S14]

I spun that bearing... no fun.
what was that like? could you drive the car that way?

[aznpoopy]

great info jigokuZ. thanks man. :)

[theicecreamdan]

what was that like? could you drive the car that way?

nope, it ended up seizing and shearing off the input shaft.

don't ever drive too long without tranny fluid.

[pr240sx]

Before buying any bearing
Check if in fact that the noise is coming from that bearing.
Could be any main bearing.
In my case, was the countershaft main bearing (the one at the center)
Damn that was a long dissasemble process
Bearing separator, long reach pullers will help
There is a bearing kit on Ebay quite cheap.
Dont loose the shims.
Clean everything with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, and relube with wd40 or some light oil before closing the case. Rust build up super fast.

[Al_S14]

i know this subject has been dead few days but where do you get yoru bearings from? any recomendations? nissan wants over 140$ for 2 main bearings.
will be doing it next week so i wnat to get everything ahead of time

[aznpoopy]

www.drivetrain.com has rebuild kits for our trannies that cost about 80 bucks or so.

there are also vendors on ebay that sell basic rebuild kits.

better call and ask what those kits include. typically the basic kit should be a few gaskets, seals, and all major bearings (hopefully including the main input shaft bearing).

for future reference our transmission is a FS5W71C nissan tranny

[Al_S14]

sweeet thanks, any clue why they say 1989-96 and not up to 98? i was under the impression all trannys were identical minus crank sensor and few external switches on the tranny.

[JigokuZ]

If anyone is interested... I can check how much i can still get the bearings for. I got mind from a bearing factory. They measured the inner and outher dia. and the snap groove. And it's under $40 buck I think...

[projectRDM]

sweeet thanks, any clue why they say 1989-96 and not up to 98? i was under the impression all trannys were identical minus crank sensor and few external switches on the tranny.

Typical misinformation, same as offering parts for a 89-99, or a pulley for the 95-98 but not 91-94. Often times parts manafacturers don't fully cross reference parts when they make the application, or they don't update it later on. The listing you saw is probably dated back to 1996, it was never updated afterwards. Main thing is you know it's the same, so order away.