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Jonnie Fraz
11-09-2005, 07:47 PM
I just recently finished a auto to manual swap on a 1990 coupe and thought I would share some helpful tips.

First before you get started search and read all you can find on the swap, all the tips and tricks that you can find. There are several great write ups in the FAQ's section. Believe me these helped a ton.

Second get all the parts that you will need before tearing your car apart. There is a great list of all the parts in FAQ's by Drift freaq. This includes any new parts you will install, ie. flywheel, driveshaft, clutchmaster or slave. trust me this will save time and frustration. You do not want to get your car torn down and find out your new flywheel is on back order.

Third things that you should just get new. Clutch package T.O. bearing, input bushing, clutch disk and preasure plate. and alignment tool. New rear main seal, new rear tranny seal, new lower shift boot. Also you will want to get your gear oil and engine oil before you start.

Fourth set aside at least three days to compleate the swap. It may not take that long, but it might. The more prepared you are the less time it will take. Make sure your car is in a place where it will not have to be moved, also choose a nice level place to do the swap. Trust me on this one.

Fifth make sure you have the tools to do this. Good quality tools, I broke several Craftsman sockets during this adventure. You will need a good floor jack if not a trasnsmission jack. The manual trans weighs in at aprox 80lbs. and I would say the auto is twice that. If you have a friend to help that would be great, I did the whole swap myself including pulling the manual out of the donor car.

These are some of the things that I could think of to help make swapping transmissions a little easier. Your FSM will be of little help on this one, it does help with wiring the new trans up,and torque settings but other than that I did not find mine very helpful.
This whole thing took me about 12-15 hours including pulling the donor.

theicecreamdan
11-09-2005, 09:00 PM
super post, good job

Jonnie Fraz
11-10-2005, 07:31 PM
One more thing that I can recomend is while plumbing the clutch lines leave the clutch damper off. Unless you are dead set on making the swap appear stock don't install the damper. I was going to put it on and after trying to get the air out for some time, I ran the hard line to the flex line, and low and behold no more bleeding issues. The hard line was easy enough to bend around by hand, no tubing bender needed.

Jonnie Fraz
11-29-2005, 04:57 PM
Got some pics to add to the thread. Mind you this is a 1990 and your wire colors and or plugs may be a little different depending on your year/ model.
First pic is the key capture plug. This one is simple inside your steering colum the plug with the blue/red and blue going into the plug with red and black, just unplug it. Done
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/Fraz-Man-One/Key-capture.jpg
Second is the park-lock plug. This has to be bypassed to allow the car to start, fooling the transmission control into thinking the car is in park. These are the largest wires coming from the automatic harness. Mine were black and white. In the FSM they are labeled pin #1 and #2. I just cut the wires soldered them together and heatshrinked the joint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/Fraz-Man-One/Park-lock-plug.jpg
Then I plugged the plug back in. Here is a close-up of the plug.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/Fraz-Man-One/Plug-closeup.jpg
Hope these help

S13Disco
12-07-2005, 01:51 PM
do have any pics of hooking up the reverse lights?

Jonnie Fraz
12-08-2005, 12:28 AM
Sorry I do not, but it is very simple. I hard wired mine because I did not want to cut the doner cars harness to get the plug. If you are hard pressed I will get pics of my install for you.