trackstar
10-24-2005, 07:04 PM
For sale is a 1990 Nissan 240SX (S13 chassis) coupe. The car is Ivory White with charcoal interior and manual transmission. The car has power windows and power locks. No sunroof. All OEM bodywork including rear spoiler. Clear NY title, no liens. Reason for selling: About to buy my first house and I need to free up some capital.
The car has the following upgrades:
Under the hood:
Redtop SR20DET
K&N cone intake
Greddy FMIC
Greddy hotpipe w/ Greddy BOV (recirculated)
Greddy 3" downpipe
MR SS 3" testpipe
JIC Spartan 80mm cat-back (all stainless, single tip, oval canister)
Walbro fuel pump
Koyo radiator
Enjuku radiator cooling panel
Dual Flex-A-Lite electric fans
OEM T25 turbo
Joe P MBC (in-cabin)(set to peak at 14 psi, settles at ~12 psi)
Taka SS turbo oil & coolant lines w/ AN fittings
Tranny:
S15 Spec-R helical LSD (Redline 75W90)
Fidanza flywheel
RPS Max Street clutch (organic disk)(brand new)(Redline MT90)
Footwork:
Tein springs
KYB GR-2 dampers
Whiteline adjustable sway bars
SPL spherical bearing endlinks
SPL subframe collars
Nismo T-rod bushings
Kosei K1 16x7.5 +32 4 lug all around
Hankook RS2 Z212 225-50-16 tires
Brakes:
Z32 26mm Aluminum front calipers
Z32 x-drilled rotors (front)
SS lines
Carbotech XP8 pads (front)
Carbotech Panther+ pads (rear)
Motul fluid
Interior:
Autopower 4 pt “race roll bar” w/ diagonal & harness bar (SCCA approved, properly installed w/ Grade 8 hardware, double nut, steel backing plates)
Recaro Pole Position bucket seat (driver side) w/ Nagisa rails
G-Force 5-pt camlock harness (driver only, installed at proper angles w/ Grade 8 hardware and steel backing plates)
i/o port collar-style rollbar video camera mount
Grant GT steering wheel
Autometer Boost, EGT, and Oil pressure gauges
Optima battery, relocated to trunk
Viper alarm w/ pager remote
Pioneer XM-ready headunit/CD player (50w x4)
Greddy turbo timer
trunk gutted
rear seat gutted
AC delete (everything, lines, evaporator, condenser, etc)
No cruise control (as with all SR’s)
In addition, I have repaired or replaced the following items recently: new OEM throwout bearing, new OEM front splashguard, new Moroso electric fan toggle switch, new Z32 turbo gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket, new OEM wheel studs.
The car is meticulously maintained. Oil has been changed at least 4 times in the past 5000 miles (Mobil 1 synthetic). New tranny and diff fluid. New coolant with Water Wetter. New tires and brakes. I am very detail oriented; for instance, when the turbo gasket gave out, not only did I replace it, but in order to address the common problem of the loosening manifold-to-turbo issue, I used a combination of hi-temp loctite, ss lock washers, ss lock nuts, and bend tabs. I also decided to replace the OEM turbo oil and coolant lines with stainless steel units with AN fittings from Taka.
I purchased the car in June 2005. The previous owner performed the SR swap at Vertex Motorsports in VA in December 2005. At that time the chassis had approx. 140k miles on it. A J-spec dash cluster with working HUD was installed which read approx 160k miles. (Therefore the cluster is about 20k miles higher than actual mileage). The SR came from a totally stock auto tranny front clip and supposedly had 35k miles on it at the time. Currently the odometer reads 170k, which equates to 150k miles on the chassis and 45k miles on the motor.
After purchasing the car I spent some time tracking down and fixing some minor gremlins and did a few upgrades, most notably the new clutch and TO bearing ($400)(replaced a fairly new 6 puck clutch which I thought was too grabby); HLSD ($1000 w/ pro install); the driver’s seat, harness, and rollbar ($1200 total); the sway bars and endlinks ($600); cat-back exhaust ($600); Koyo radiator ($300); new brake pads ($350, very high quality pads); wheels and tires ($1000). I have every single receipt since I purchased the car.
The car has been to the track once (Watkins Glen in August 2005) and performed nearly flawlessly, save for some minor cooling/airflow issues (since resolved with the radiator cooling panel). That day was cut short by the blown turbo gasket (common problem, and since fixed). I have every second of that track day on in-car videotape if anyone cares. Other than that HPDE, I drive the car relatively tamely on the street and the car is not abused. I’m an adult and a member of SCCA, NASA, BMWCCA, and ZCCA; I’m not some young kid running around street racing. Never drifted or drag raced.
I have 2 other cars (company car + beater daily driver), so this car rarely gets driven. Since getting it home I have put less than 5k miles on it. It is garaged and doesn’t see bad weather. It is a toy car I was hoping to get some more track time with, but unfortunately my schedule didn’t cooperate. Mechanically, right now, the car needs nothing. It starts right up, idles smoothly, doesn’t stall or run rough. Power is smooth and it pulls hard to redline. The cage basically eliminated any of the creaks/groans you would expect from a car with higher mileage. The car could be driven daily if desired; I simply haven’t had to. I have spared no expense on this car; when I decide to repair or upgrade something, only the best will do. The car is ready to be enjoyed as is, or with a few simple changes (turbo, injectors, MAF, and ECU) it could be making some monster power, as the groundwork has already been laid.
That being said, the negatives are as follows: The paint is in decent shape (original paint). The car looks decent even from 5 feet away. Up close however you will notice some dents, scratches, chips, etc. The front bumper and rear bumpers are both slightly misaligned. No evidence of a major hit and Carfax is clean. If you want a show car, you would need a repaint. The car looks good on the street, and is more than nice enough to be a track car. Power antenna doesn’t work (motor works but the cable connecting to the actual antenna snapped. I rarely use the radio so I never bothered fixing it. Antenna can be raised by hand) Interior: Dash is in amazing, nearly perfect shape. Center console has some scratches. Passenger seat is a bit dirty but no tears/visible wear. Carpet is showing it’s age. From the front seat back the interior is mostly gutted (a few panels remain), which makes the car somewhat loud (not overly so) and the drivetrain lash more noticeable. Also, I had planned at some point to upgrade to coilovers but never got to it; the next owner may want to consider that upgrade to complete things. All of the stock parts that have been upgraded have been junked with the exception of the oem wheels.
I’m asking $8900. I’m pretty firm on the price right now since I don’t need to sell the car and I think the car is worth it. I have a decent amount of money and a lot of time into this car. It’s hard to find S13 that were not ragged on. This car is fast, smooth, and reliable. If you are looking for a well-prepared car with no known issues, this is the one. I’m a longstanding member of twinturbo.net (Z32 site) and have numerous references for the car and for my personal integrity. Please no lowballs or trade offers, no I can’t finance you, serious inquiries only. The car is located in New Haven, CT. Please, please, please use email, I may not necessarily see a reply here or a PM. Thanks.
[email protected]
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviaside.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviafront2.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviafront1.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviaback.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviamotor.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviainterior1.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviainterior2.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviainterior3.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviatrack.jpg
The car has the following upgrades:
Under the hood:
Redtop SR20DET
K&N cone intake
Greddy FMIC
Greddy hotpipe w/ Greddy BOV (recirculated)
Greddy 3" downpipe
MR SS 3" testpipe
JIC Spartan 80mm cat-back (all stainless, single tip, oval canister)
Walbro fuel pump
Koyo radiator
Enjuku radiator cooling panel
Dual Flex-A-Lite electric fans
OEM T25 turbo
Joe P MBC (in-cabin)(set to peak at 14 psi, settles at ~12 psi)
Taka SS turbo oil & coolant lines w/ AN fittings
Tranny:
S15 Spec-R helical LSD (Redline 75W90)
Fidanza flywheel
RPS Max Street clutch (organic disk)(brand new)(Redline MT90)
Footwork:
Tein springs
KYB GR-2 dampers
Whiteline adjustable sway bars
SPL spherical bearing endlinks
SPL subframe collars
Nismo T-rod bushings
Kosei K1 16x7.5 +32 4 lug all around
Hankook RS2 Z212 225-50-16 tires
Brakes:
Z32 26mm Aluminum front calipers
Z32 x-drilled rotors (front)
SS lines
Carbotech XP8 pads (front)
Carbotech Panther+ pads (rear)
Motul fluid
Interior:
Autopower 4 pt “race roll bar” w/ diagonal & harness bar (SCCA approved, properly installed w/ Grade 8 hardware, double nut, steel backing plates)
Recaro Pole Position bucket seat (driver side) w/ Nagisa rails
G-Force 5-pt camlock harness (driver only, installed at proper angles w/ Grade 8 hardware and steel backing plates)
i/o port collar-style rollbar video camera mount
Grant GT steering wheel
Autometer Boost, EGT, and Oil pressure gauges
Optima battery, relocated to trunk
Viper alarm w/ pager remote
Pioneer XM-ready headunit/CD player (50w x4)
Greddy turbo timer
trunk gutted
rear seat gutted
AC delete (everything, lines, evaporator, condenser, etc)
No cruise control (as with all SR’s)
In addition, I have repaired or replaced the following items recently: new OEM throwout bearing, new OEM front splashguard, new Moroso electric fan toggle switch, new Z32 turbo gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket, new OEM wheel studs.
The car is meticulously maintained. Oil has been changed at least 4 times in the past 5000 miles (Mobil 1 synthetic). New tranny and diff fluid. New coolant with Water Wetter. New tires and brakes. I am very detail oriented; for instance, when the turbo gasket gave out, not only did I replace it, but in order to address the common problem of the loosening manifold-to-turbo issue, I used a combination of hi-temp loctite, ss lock washers, ss lock nuts, and bend tabs. I also decided to replace the OEM turbo oil and coolant lines with stainless steel units with AN fittings from Taka.
I purchased the car in June 2005. The previous owner performed the SR swap at Vertex Motorsports in VA in December 2005. At that time the chassis had approx. 140k miles on it. A J-spec dash cluster with working HUD was installed which read approx 160k miles. (Therefore the cluster is about 20k miles higher than actual mileage). The SR came from a totally stock auto tranny front clip and supposedly had 35k miles on it at the time. Currently the odometer reads 170k, which equates to 150k miles on the chassis and 45k miles on the motor.
After purchasing the car I spent some time tracking down and fixing some minor gremlins and did a few upgrades, most notably the new clutch and TO bearing ($400)(replaced a fairly new 6 puck clutch which I thought was too grabby); HLSD ($1000 w/ pro install); the driver’s seat, harness, and rollbar ($1200 total); the sway bars and endlinks ($600); cat-back exhaust ($600); Koyo radiator ($300); new brake pads ($350, very high quality pads); wheels and tires ($1000). I have every single receipt since I purchased the car.
The car has been to the track once (Watkins Glen in August 2005) and performed nearly flawlessly, save for some minor cooling/airflow issues (since resolved with the radiator cooling panel). That day was cut short by the blown turbo gasket (common problem, and since fixed). I have every second of that track day on in-car videotape if anyone cares. Other than that HPDE, I drive the car relatively tamely on the street and the car is not abused. I’m an adult and a member of SCCA, NASA, BMWCCA, and ZCCA; I’m not some young kid running around street racing. Never drifted or drag raced.
I have 2 other cars (company car + beater daily driver), so this car rarely gets driven. Since getting it home I have put less than 5k miles on it. It is garaged and doesn’t see bad weather. It is a toy car I was hoping to get some more track time with, but unfortunately my schedule didn’t cooperate. Mechanically, right now, the car needs nothing. It starts right up, idles smoothly, doesn’t stall or run rough. Power is smooth and it pulls hard to redline. The cage basically eliminated any of the creaks/groans you would expect from a car with higher mileage. The car could be driven daily if desired; I simply haven’t had to. I have spared no expense on this car; when I decide to repair or upgrade something, only the best will do. The car is ready to be enjoyed as is, or with a few simple changes (turbo, injectors, MAF, and ECU) it could be making some monster power, as the groundwork has already been laid.
That being said, the negatives are as follows: The paint is in decent shape (original paint). The car looks decent even from 5 feet away. Up close however you will notice some dents, scratches, chips, etc. The front bumper and rear bumpers are both slightly misaligned. No evidence of a major hit and Carfax is clean. If you want a show car, you would need a repaint. The car looks good on the street, and is more than nice enough to be a track car. Power antenna doesn’t work (motor works but the cable connecting to the actual antenna snapped. I rarely use the radio so I never bothered fixing it. Antenna can be raised by hand) Interior: Dash is in amazing, nearly perfect shape. Center console has some scratches. Passenger seat is a bit dirty but no tears/visible wear. Carpet is showing it’s age. From the front seat back the interior is mostly gutted (a few panels remain), which makes the car somewhat loud (not overly so) and the drivetrain lash more noticeable. Also, I had planned at some point to upgrade to coilovers but never got to it; the next owner may want to consider that upgrade to complete things. All of the stock parts that have been upgraded have been junked with the exception of the oem wheels.
I’m asking $8900. I’m pretty firm on the price right now since I don’t need to sell the car and I think the car is worth it. I have a decent amount of money and a lot of time into this car. It’s hard to find S13 that were not ragged on. This car is fast, smooth, and reliable. If you are looking for a well-prepared car with no known issues, this is the one. I’m a longstanding member of twinturbo.net (Z32 site) and have numerous references for the car and for my personal integrity. Please no lowballs or trade offers, no I can’t finance you, serious inquiries only. The car is located in New Haven, CT. Please, please, please use email, I may not necessarily see a reply here or a PM. Thanks.
[email protected]
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviaside.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviafront2.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviafront1.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviaback.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviamotor.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviainterior1.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviainterior2.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviainterior3.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored/silviatrack.jpg