Rear caliper question. Are They Seized?

[adoboboy]

I have an 96 240, and I have replaced my rear brake pads at least twice a year for the past two years I have had it. Does this mean the calipers are seized?
The rear driver side still has plenty of meat left (see picture, its hard to see) while the rear pass side has barely any left (see picture). I assume it is due to a bad caliper, which I have heard happens quite often. Or I’m thinking it might be a warped rotor. I do have some vibrations under light braking at high speeds, but when I really get on it I feel no vibrations at all.
By the way, I recently upgraded my front brakes to 30mm Z brakes.


Rear Driver Caliper(a little hard to see how much meat is left) (ftp://240user:[email protected]/Driver caliper3.JPG)

Rear Pass Caliper (ftp://240user:[email protected]/Pass caliper.JPG)

[zero.counter]

The rears do seem to be more prone to seizing, at least in my experience. I have also found that the screws for the rotors fall out unless tightened to spec, thus allowing only the lug nuts to tighten the rotor. The pads may end up loosening up and moving, which can eventually lead to the caliper grinding metal, which does not sound or look pretty.

[prymer 240]

im a nissan tech.... um we have had ur problem.. most of the time its a seized caliper....and as to wat zero counter said bout the screw on the rotor.. thats not a really big issue... those screws are there for factory assemly purposes... we throw those things out.. to verify if ur caliper is frozen take the caliper of the brake bracket and grab a set of moneky wrench and try to sqeeze the piston in.. dont not apply too much pressure... if it doesnt go in with a little pressuse then the caliper is frozen...( if ur piston is the once that screw in u ll have to get the special tool or or try to figure something out to screw it in).also check ur slider guides on the brake caliper bracket.. and apply anti seize to them... do so to the slider pin to... and make sure theres no dirt in there either.... P.S if u caliper happens to b frozen and u buy a new one make sure to specify if u have abs or not... they r different.

[projectRDM]

You're in NY, so they're seized. Any cold/wet/salt enviroment seems to kill a rear caliper in just a few years. The rest of them in warmer climates last maybe another year after that.

[adoboboy]

Thanks guys.
Now since it seems that only the rear pass is seized, should I replace both sides at the same time? or wait till the driver's side to seize and then replace?
Reman rear calipers here I can get for 80 bucks a piece and a 75 core charge. Is that a good price?

[projectRDM]

Do both, but $80 is kinda high. I think $60 is more than enough for a reman caliper. Check around at all the auto parts places and go online too.

[prymer 240]

recommend doin both.... remeber to get the right calipers if u have abs or not...... if experienced installin a wrong caliper and it was a pain in the ass.. twice the work...

[skatanic28]

ive replaced 2 rear calipers in about 3 years due to the piston seizing. along with having problems with 2 of the sliding pins locking up. ny winters suck!

[240sxparasite]

hello all 240 owners i have a 93 and need info on how to remove the caliper on my rear pass. side brakes .......
Do i need a speacial tool or what? pl help thx..... I am positive it is seized..I doesnt work anymore and im a amature trying to replace it
THX
Mike :wtf:

[zero.counter]

hello all 240 owners i have a 93 and need info on how to remove the caliper on my rear pass. side brakes .......
Do i need a speacial tool or what? pl help thx..... I am positive it is seized..I doesnt work anymore and im a amature trying to replace it
THX
Mike :wtf:
You can get the 4 tooth tool at most auto parts stores for $12 to $15. Or you can use some needle nose pliers...

[Phlip]

You can get the 4 tooth tool at most auto parts stores for $12 to $15. Or you can use some needle nose pliers...
That *would* be the only "special tool" needed, but if this is a simple remove and replace with *NEW* pieces, that much shouldn't even be needed.

[OptionZero]

Is it possible for seized rear calipers to only manifest when reversing?
I'm getting a massive grinding/groaning/crunching sound on occasion when reversing, that momentarily fixes itself with a light tap of the brakes.

I'm ruling out the diff since it was installed professionally by good shops, and it sounds like it could be coming from brakes scraping on something or not releasing fully.

[projectRDM]

That's more likely worn/improperly seated pads.

[OptionZero]

thanks mang

[adoboboy]

So I replaced the rear calipers this weekend, and upgraded the lines to Stainless steel on all 4's. After bleeding the brakes, I noticed the e-break came all the way up. im like...WTF!:confused: the e-brake didn't even hold on my 2 degree incline driveway.
I first thought the e-brake lines became unhooked somewhere between the handle and caliper. But then when I asked my dad to pull the e-brake, the latch on the caliper gets pulled on both sides. So that rules out the lines coming undone.
Next I thought, calipers are not rebuilt correctly. Next I try to prove my theory wrong, so what do I do? I do a search on zilvia and after a few min, I find out that it takes time to break in the new caliper/pads. Then the e-brake is supposed to go back to normal. After a few hours of driving, the e-brake is back to normal.:doh:
So, Thanks Zilvia and the people who put in their 2 cents. You all saved me a bunch of $$ :ughug:

[projectRDM]

Good. Now buy us all a whore and mail her in a duffle bag to our choice of address.