Driveshaft-Differential problem

[The Hamsterball]

Hi..

I have done the S14 VLSD swap into my S13 a while ago, it fixed a lot of the noise problems I was having with my clunky open diff which had play in the output shafts (no good).

Now, I don't get any of the insanely loud clunks that I used to get with the Open diff, but I still have some noise. It's the same noise as before, but not as loud.
*ClunK*

If I shift and engage too fast, *clunk*
If i let out the clutch too fast in 1st when trying to engage (without using any gas), it clunks.
If I drive PERFECTLY and engage in every gear slowly and with an exact match, no noise*


I have been in a friend's S13, who drives no where as carefully as me, and there is absoulutely no noise.



I know that my non-abs S13 driveshaft is .75'' longer than an S14 ABS driveshaft (i believe).

I would like to know if that has something to do with the problem? Should I get an S13/S14 ABS driveshaft welded somewhere?

Or if the .75'' lenght difference doesn't matter, where else should I check, what else should i grease up, what should i do to fix this noise?

[kandyflip445]

Subframe bushings??

[aznpoopy]

Subframe bushings??

+1

just get some subframe bushing collars

[Drunk Bastard]

ok, here's what you do:
1=buy aluminum driveshaft
2=install welded diff

[The Hamsterball]

Subframe bushings??

eehh... okay i'll take the advice for the driveshaft.
It's time for some new u-joints.
(i verified the problem by lifting the rear and rotating the wheels.
the u-joint clunked alot more than the output shafts on the VLSD)

And I heard subframe polyurethane spacers make differential noise worse.
Maybe they said wrong.


Also, I notice that my stupid assed output shafts have play now...
they had zero play before i installed the differential.
This is retarded.. ahaha.

Thanks for not helping out and leaving all my questions unanswered though.
It's like those dumb posts on overheating threads.
"uh... maybe it's your thermostat. Just buy a nismo t stat"
"uh... it's your radiator for sure. Try a flush"
(responses with NO backing or reasoning except diagnostic guesses.)

I can't really relate to the way you guys post up there.
But I'll go ahead and try the subframe collars, since I was going to purchase and install those in the future anyways.

[SochBAT]

Subframe bushings??

eehh... okay i'll take the advice for the driveshaft.
It's time for some new u-joints.
(i verified the problem by lifting the rear and rotating the wheels.
the u-joint clunked alot more than the output shafts on the VLSD)

And I heard subframe polyurethane spacers make differential noise worse.
Maybe they said wrong.


Also, I notice that my stupid assed output shafts have play now...
they had zero play before i installed the differential.
This is retarded.. ahaha.

Thanks for not helping out and leaving all my questions unanswered though.
It's like those dumb posts on overheating threads.
"uh... maybe it's your thermostat. Just buy a nismo t stat"
"uh... it's your radiator for sure. Try a flush"
(responses with NO backing or reasoning except diagnostic guesses.)

I can't really relate to the way you guys post up there.
But I'll go ahead and try the subframe collars, since I was going to purchase and install those in the future anyways.

IIRC, they increase cabin noise, but keep the rear subframe from flexing and gettin liquid. And don't hate on Zilvian and their suggestions. Its like going to a doctor. He'd SUGGEST it might be this, but wouldn't give an exact 'thats the problem' cuz if he was wrong, it'd b malpractice. Think of it the same way here. ALthough we can't hear the problem, and physically inspect it, we cover all possible problems before pinpointing the true nature of the noise.

Glad we could have been of help.

And sorry if that sounded like a flame.

'I am not the Human Torch.'

[240m3srt]

I have the exact same clunk and im doing subframe bushings along with diff bushings this weekend. Ill let you know if that fixes it.

[statik]

i had a nasty clunk just like this, after replacing the tranny mount and the diff bushinngs, the subframe spacers finally fixed it, just took up the slack in the old shitty stock bushings, took 15 min to install, best mod ever =]

[kandyflip445]

Ok, Hamster turd. I suggested subframe bushings because of the clunk. As did a couple other people. If you don't like the answers then don't ask for help. It's not like we can 100% correctly diagnose your problem over then internet. If you want that done take it to a mechanic. Even then they sometimes don't tell you what you want.

[The Hamsterball]

Meh.. you guys are right.

I should be happy at least for suggestions that relate to possible areas of problem for the exact problem, but shouldn't expect an exact answer.
(i was kind of tired and disgruntled from work at the time of the post).


Well, I can't really get any differential bushings. I'm using custom washers, with longer differential mounting bolts. The washers are pretty damn thick, my dad made them at work (he's handy, but not automotively-tuned lol)..
The ony other area I can see that might mean that the differential is not on correctly is how all 4 of my rear cover mounting bolts (or maybe the rear cover threads) are kind of fucked.
(meaning, all of them got tight, and then got loose.
I believe I overtightened them with higher than required torque specs when I put the differential in)
They're still tight and holding it well, and not much I can do about that problem unless I take the diff out, or if it is the bolts that are fucked up and not the rear cover thread.

I pushed my leg up against the diff as well, no movement.

Lastly, I did what somebody suggested in a thread I came across when searching.
(Lifting the rear end up, and rotating the wheels.
Found that my output shafts don't have any play, and there is a *clicking noise* that could be a *CLUNK* when the car is really driving with more pressure than my bare hands.. ---Coming from the U-JOINT--


I believe the problem lies in my driveshaft assembly (Most probably the U-Joint)


Thanks for all the help and suggestion, it helped me narrow it down to the problem.

Also, this post is just to add on to the thread in case some other Zilvian has the same problem.

Thanks again.

[The Hamsterball]

Oh yeah....

Can anybody verify if it is a BAD THING to use an S13 non-abs driveshaft for the S14 VLSD from an ABS equipped car.

The driveshaft of the S14 that the VLSD initally was on had a driveshaft that is .75'' shorter (as said on ka24development.com)

I had no problems getting the shaft to fit on the diff, but am wondering if it is a bad idea or if it puts too much stress since it's longer and has to kind of squeeze itself in to line up to the input shaft of the VLSD.
(I remember reading something about this, and think I read something that made my mouth open.. Something about adding extra pressure/stress to the inners of the VLSD)

I wouldn't have worried about this if I didn't have a new rumble noise coming from the rear occasionally on DECELERATION.
It comes very rarely.
That scares me lol.



But other than that, thanks for the suggestions.More importantly, Does anybody know about 240SX Rear U-joints, the ones that connect to the diffential shaft flange? Do you have to grease them or anything? Or do they not have grease?? I am kind of confused in this matter, and am wondering if there is a way to servicve them or just buy a new rear driveshaft section to fix the problem.

[Pank]

from what i've READ, if you have enough "slack" in your driveshaft, you should be fine. as far as the other stuff, i'm not positive enough to say

[kandyflip445]

In the FSM it says if it's broke you have to replace the whole shaft. With exception of the center bearing, which can be replaced.

[statik]

Oh yeah....

Can anybody verify if it is a BAD THING to use an S13 non-abs driveshaft for the S14 VLSD from an ABS equipped car.


this is a bad thing, I made the same mistake, threw on an s13 vlsd w/abs on my base kouki w/o abs and thoughy since it fit it would be ok, it destroyed the carrier bearing, which I then replaced with a 1 piece aluminum DS...gl =]

[The Hamsterball]

this is a bad thing, I made the same mistake, threw on an s13 vlsd w/abs on my base kouki w/o abs and thoughy since it fit it would be ok, it destroyed the carrier bearing, which I then replaced with a 1 piece aluminum DS...gl =]


awww shit..... that's what i thought.
thanks alot...

oh well.

[golfer17]

this is a bad thing, I made the same mistake, threw on an s13 vlsd w/abs on my base kouki w/o abs and thoughy since it fit it would be ok, it destroyed the carrier bearing, which I then replaced with a 1 piece aluminum DS...gl =]
where did you get your aluminum ds made(im assuming a local ds shop) and how much did it cost you. i need to get one made for my auto-manual (ka24de-s14sr also)swap but i wont be getting a ds with my front clip, so where can i find all the measurements for the right ds i need? i also need the carrier bearing bracket too, can i get this made too or just get it from a junkyard?

[projectRDM]

Tension in the driveshaft rarely makes noises, and if anything it will slightly increase wear on the carrier bearing and the transmission output shaft seal, but that's it. Most cars have enough play between diff/gearbox/motor mounts to accomodate the added length. The sound you're describing, if it was driveshaft induced, would mean that there is too much play in the shaft, the opposite of your situation.
Ujoints are not replaceable on a Schassis shaft, so either buy a new one or start salvage hunting.

[TheTimanator]

this is a bad thing, I made the same mistake, threw on an s13 vlsd w/abs on my base kouki w/o abs and thoughy since it fit it would be ok, it destroyed the carrier bearing, which I then replaced with a 1 piece aluminum DS...gl =]
really? I've had a J30 VLSD in my car for over 20k miles and no problems I am aware of.

[statik]

really? I've had a J30 VLSD in my car for over 20k miles and no problems I am aware of.

perhaps mine was just on its way out, im always looking for reasons to upgrade =]...i got my DS from the driveshaft shop (http://www.driveshaftshop.com/) , they happen to be located about a mile from where i work