possibly my last thread ever

[mjjstang]

hey, I still havent gotten my redtop working after the new turbo and other stuff, I know I have had a couple other threads about this but I dont care anymore, If I still dont fix it this time, then Im just parting it out I cant stand it anymore. Anyway I have done some more tests to rule out anything and here goes

checked engine bay fuses, ENG CNTRL was blown, but I replaced, thinking this was the problem, but no progress.

Maf was replaced with 2 different ones, Still nothing. Checked maf voltage from the ECU. .5v, which is normal

Put maf right up to TB to make sure there were no air leaks in the IC piping, to cause problem, still nothing.

fuel rail was pulled to make sure injectors were not leaking. No leaks

pulled plugs, have good spark.

Red ecu light turns off while cranking, which is good I guess.

Let me tell you whats goin on, I replaced turbo with gt2871r, and lines, these would have nothing to do with this problem, but also got ecu tuned and injectors in the same time. before I upgraded, everything worked fine, even after I upgraded everything worked except it wouldnt rev past 2500, so all I did was reconnect the maf signal wire, stupid me forgot after I unplugged the safc, so I reconnected this, and it ran and revved past 2500, I drove it down street as it massively backfired and progressively ran worse untill it just totally died while pulling back into my driveway, have yet to start it since, the only sign of life from the car is If I wait a couple days or a week to try and start it, it will fire for like half second and you can tell its igniting. after that, it wont do anything, just cranks.

some further tests I would like to do are injector tests. and coolant temperature.

for the injectors do I need noid lights or can I just hook up the multimeter leads to the 2 pins on the injector connectors in OHM mode, and if so can I just hook the black lead to either of the 2 pins and the red lead to the other or is there a certain pin that positive must go to and a certain the negative must go to.

also is there a way to test the temp sensor, the one that goes to the ecu.

My O2 sensor is mighty beat up but would a faulty sensor cause a problem where the car wont even run at all, or attempt to run.

up untill now I have been able to fix all of my car problems within reasonable time. I know something is messed up this time because I have gone months scratching my head.

What has me most confused is that before I swapped the turbo ecu injectors and took the SAFC off, The car ran fine, so that leads me to believe there isnt anything wrong with the car, but it lies somewhere in the ecu. The injectors obviously have been doing their job because before I reconnected the maf signal wire, the car idled fine and I unhooked one injector at a time to make sure they all worked right, and listened for the car to stumble, they all checked out. I spoke with Scott (Enthalpy) about this, and he has full faith that he tuned the car right, And when you take a look at his work and how much he knows about our cars, it would be hard to believe he messed up, that is why Im totally clueless on what to do next, I dont have a sr mechanic next door to help me either. Can anybody reccommend anything else I could do. thanks guys.

[chlatboy]

no shops you can go to?

[mjjstang]

no since my car doesnt run. and shops dont know shit about my car.

[TheSparo]

who tuned the ecu?

[mjjstang]

enthalpy.........

[RBS14]

You can test the injectors in the car. Just unplug the connectors to all 4 of them. Hook up the multimeter leads to each pair of pins on the injector. They should read ~11 ohms. Replace any that are more than 1 ohm off. 2 at the max.

The only way to test the coolant temp sensor is to take it out of the car, since the car is not running. Take it out, and bring it into your kitchen. Using ice water and different temps of hot water, and a multimeter, check the resistance at these 3 values. They should be as follows... The temperature in degrees F, followed by the approximate resistance in ohms.

14 ~9200
68 ~2500
194 ~200

If it's way out of wack at any of those points, it's bad.

Test those and see if anything is out of spec. Post up your results.

[mjjstang]

k I didnt realize that testing the injectors like that has nothing to do with whether or not they are actually functioning correctly, since its being tested while its not even running, anyway, they were all 11. so do I still need the noid lights to make sure its firing right, or no. I will test the sensor tomarrow I guess, Is it really going to make the car not run though if its not functioning correctly.

[nlzmo400r]

push start that bish, and see if it'll run. If its just not cranking, it may be the damn starter

[mjjstang]

oh, it has great crank.

[TheSparo]

call scott, it could be in the computer.. but i never heard anything bad about him... im sure he would be willing to help out a lot... oh yea if you sell the turbo... how much? :)

[mjjstang]

EHRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrr I dont want to sell turbo or antyhing now, but if I cant get it running after everything, I donno watch for it in the FS section. anyway I called scott, he doenst know either, gave me a bunch of pointers though. If nothing comes out of this post after a few days, im going to rewire my safc, and install my buddies 370s and stock ecu, if it works then its deffinitely something with the injectors or ecu, and if so, ill just have to try whatever I can to get new stuff.

[TheSnail]

Have you tryed advancing the CAS all the way? After trying to crank it, have you checked your plugs to see if there wet?

[mjjstang]

hmm I was thinking about the CAS, but then thought that if it ran before without changing the timeing, why shouldnt it run now, anyway Ill check it, also I checked the plugs and they seemed kind of wet, did I mention earlier that it smells of raw fuel, and like I said it has spark. so yah, ill check the cas though. and plugs again.

[Megadang]

I had a similar problem. My O2 sensor wasn't reconnected after i installed my turbo elbow. Basically it started running real rich, which lead to bogging, and finally the engine just flooded with gas. So it would crank, but just die out after a few minutes. I finally realized i forgot to reconnect the o2 sensor, Reconnected it, resetted my ecu, fired it back up and it just burned all the excess gas. Hopefully its just your o2 sensor bro. Good luck

[TheSnail]

It sounds like your getting too much fuel. Or wrong timing. On my 26 that ran pig rich (4mpg), thanks to leaky injectors. Some times to crank it up I had to advance the CAS timing to lean it out (or it would just flood). Let it run for 5 minutes the turn it of and reset the CAS. Im guessing when you go out there to crank it, it turns over and almost starts, then you turn it over and it just turns over, you let it sit for 15min and try it again and it almost starts. Also on the tuned ECU, do you know if they altered the timing? If so what way and how much. Also, just make sure your knock sensor is conected. When you go out there tomarrow, advance the CAS first, then try to crank it. Also if you crank it several times, disconect the CAS plug and crank it several times to "Unflood" it. Then conect it again and try it again with the maf unpluged.

[llteddy4playll]

I would replace the ecu with another one first. Your car is running too rich so its flooding out your car. o2 isnt that big of a deal because im not running one and its running perfectly fine. The safc is actually keeping my car running because im running an open bov but it still starts and just want to stall w/o an safc. But i really think your ecu went bad somehow so replace it and and your sparkplug because its probably all fouled out by now.

PS Keep us updated because im interested as to what was wrong with it.

[trsilvias13]

u know there two type of injector low n high impedence.. maybe u have one and it tuned for the other?

[CaoBoY]

i second replacing the ecu with another one. or if you could find someone else with an SR20, try using your ecu on theirs and see if the same problem is happening.

[AdamMagiera]

sell everything and buy this, run 12s for a grand

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4560847758&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

[TheSnail]

^^^ I dont think mjjstang has a mullet, so it does not apply. Spend the $40 and put it on autotrader.

[AdamMagiera]

^^^ I dont think mjjstang has a mullet, so it does not apply. Spend the $40 and put it on autotrader.

hmmm looks like MJJ STANG already has a late model mustang, so he must have a mullet *shrugs*

[mjjstang]

well yah I plan to replace ecu, too bad I have to go through all the bullshit of changin injectors back to stock, and then have to replace maf with a sr one, then id have to rewire it for sr maf, so that means I need to reinstall safc, I doubt it was tuned for the wrong type of injectors as enthalpy tuned it and if he overlooked something I highly doubt it would be the impendance of the injectors, but at any rate Im not pointing fingers untill I do some more tests.

[420sx]

its ur ecu dude. might be the cas too since its cranking and turning over but not firing.

[mjjstang]

ok well I finally figured out why it isnt started, but havent found the fix. ok, I decided to pull plugs again. well when I did the first time, I only pulled the first one. and it seemed alright, wasnt soaking or anything, but in actuality, all the others were soaking when I pulled them this time. plugs were brand new almost, and properly gapped, thats a set of ngk iridiums down the drain cuz they are FUCKED. absolutely no spark coming from them. anyway, I replaced them with my old plugs for now, but soon realized it wasnt going to be a simple plug and play thing, I nearly fouled these out even after I pulled the pump fuse. so right now im airing the chambers out and going to test later, but this still doesnt solve my problem. why was it that before I connected the maf signal wire, the car idled fine and went up to 2500 without a hitch, but mysteriously right when I plugged that maf signal in, it started to foul the plugs. I know the the car runs in a safe mode when the maf signal is not hooked up, but right when I connected the signal wire, the ecu realized it was all set to run in the mode that its supposed to, but lets say it was tuned wrong, then the ecu thinks its dumping the right amount of fuel, but it really could be dumping tons more then it should be.

But before I decide it is an ecu problem, I would like to know what to check. once I get the car running I dont think ill have much time before the plugs foul and it dies for good again. so during this running time, should I check the maf voltage at idle. this should tell me if the maf is good correct. or could this also tell me information about the ECU. Also for now I have disconnected the O2 sensor to rule out the it is wired wrong or has any kind of short. To be honest I know the white wire was severed anyhow, Or do I need to grab a new o2 sensor. (I will eventually get one, but is it required now). anything else I should test while I am able to keep the car running. I know running rich is a problem that has many answers, but just the fact that it is only running rich after I have connected the MAF signal, and the fact that the car ran fine while I had stock ecu and injectors, leads me to believe this is not just a problem the will take an adjustment of the cas, or replacing parts blah blah.

[TheSnail]

I was saying to adjust the CAS to lean it out (to comfirm that it is a problem of excesive fuel). And also said if that does not work, adjust the CAS and disconect the MAF. I had to do the same for mine. It would start easyer with the MAF's disconected(leans it out even more). It sounds like your car is running hog(not pig) rich. The only other recomendation I have is checking your FPR, and just putting your old 370's on it while leaving the ecu in place.

[mjjstang]

ok now 2 questions, as for the cas, if I do move it around and find a sweet spot, I shoul still then move it back to whatever timing is recommended for the car, -5 isnt it? so in a way this is only a temp fix. and if Im understanding this, your problem was leaky injectors, that when fixed, stopped the problem and you were able to set the cas back to where it should be. Right? next is about the 370s. if I did install these, then I shouldt rev past idle should I, or would it not be a problem, after all I ran the pipes directly to TB, and dont even have the turbo connected. Im sounding like a crazy newb I know, but I just dont want to fuck anything up, It seems thats all im doing lately.

[TheSnail]

If it cranks by the CAS, get a timing light and check the timing, to see if the timing is too advanced to drive it around or to get an idea of the ecu's reset timing. Im sure he alterd the timing on the ecu, so do you know how much and which way he changed it? As for mine, some mornings it would not crank and just flood the engine, I advanced the timing and disconected the MAF's, cranked it up, let it run for a 5min, turned it off, pluged the Maf's back and changed back the timing cranked it up and drove off. The 26 crank timing was 20deg (fourth notch from the right), I belive sr is 15deg or second notch from the right. See if the 370's work, maybe they messed up with reprograming the ecu to bigger injectors, and now your running big injectors on the ecu's 370's precent. If it runs you can rev it up, it will pop and studder before it detonates, If its studders, dont drive it around and put any load on it. If it runs flawlessly, then their reprograming is not set to 550's or whatever your running.

[420sx]

actually, you should reset your timing to stock and work from there. i dont see how ur timing is going to solve your issue. reset by FSM, no need for timing light. i still think your ECU is the problem

[TheSnail]

^ Its to understand the issue, but not to solve it. Also resetting timing by the way of the fsm requires the use of a timing light.

[mjjstang]

well I was able to start it and it ran by keeping the TB open a bit more. but when I set idle at around 1000 rpm, then 15 minutes later, I try to restart, I have to open the TB even more, or it dies. after like 30 seconds im able to take my foot off the accelerator. I know I can just turn up the idle so I dont have to keep my foot on it, but then the car would idle at around 1300. Is this the non recirc bov at work? It still smells like raw fuel but it seems to be idling like a champ when its running, this should mean ecu and injectors are fine right? or could injectors still be dumping too much but just not at idle. I have yet to take her down the street under any type of load, first need pipes made. Im not home free yet because when it was under load is when I started having my massive flooding issues, never at idle. Im going to go buy a new 02 sensor and some new plugs, as right now im running 5 range. (from my old KA) I just hate to spend all this money on good plugs in the testing stages, do any of you guys reccomend a 7 range plug that is cheap as hell. BTW at about 1100 rpm the maf wire was giving about 1.1 volt.

I think Im at the stage where I Just need to search some more and read into running rich and flooding issues, but I though Id just add a little more info and see what you guys think. thanks for your help guys.

[420sx]

^ Its to understand the issue, but not to solve it. Also resetting timing by the way of the fsm requires the use of a timing light.

no it doesnt. u just align the marks and its reset. im using the s14 sr manual, u can get it in tech section, same shit for s13 sr. thats how i set my timing back to stock :boink: i would asume timing light would be accurate if ur trying to set it beyond stock.

[llteddy4playll]

Use NGK bkr7e or something like that. Im using that for my sr and it works perfectly fine for like 8 dollars total for all 4. You ever checked to see if all your piping isnt leaking anywhere either?

[mbmbmb23]

Are you using both an SAFC and a tuned ECU? If so, what is your SAFC set to?

[mjjstang]

I have the bkr7e, they were way more than 8 bux for me, and that Is why I want to use something less money for now till I figure out the flooding issue, as im going to just keep toasting plugs until the problem is fixed. pipes arent leaking because Like I said, I have the maf and filter connnected right to the tb for now, untill I get my pipes made. safc was taken out.

[llteddy4playll]

So if you have your maf connected to the tb. Where is the cold side for your intercooler connected too? Im lost now.

[mjjstang]

turbo is bypassed, im not using it, my car has like 90 hp right now., a guy is coming over to make my pipes for me this week, but I rigged it with duct tape earlier, but decided to just bypass it to make sure this isnt a leak problem.

[llteddy4playll]

I never heard of that but sure. We'll see how your car runs after your piping is all done and said.

[ryan hagen]

when i got my jwt ecu tune they said differnt injectors rated at 550cc flow differnt, they said nismo 555's acatually flow 615cc by jwt tests, and there are new and late 550's that are differnt. if you didnt use the right injectors it could be in the tune. u also might have some wireing issues after that s-afc deinstall, i d go back and check all of them.

[rancid240]

did you end up checking the coolant sensor?