Ignition fuse keeps popping

[chlatboy]

Hey guys, kinda got into a little trouble. Every time i try to crank my car to start, the ignition fuse keeps blowing. Ive checked all around and cant find the problem. Can anyone point me in the right directiON?

[dunno]

Make sure you're using the correct amp fuse. If so, you may have a short to ground. Start checking wires to your fusebox.

-Matt

[drew935]

check the wire to your starter and battery and so forth. Sounds like a bad short to me... :axe:

[SochBAT]

Maybe you should check your VTEC solenoid. And don't take my ignition fuse. Free bump.

[chlatboy]

i didnt take ur ignition fuse. I took ur power window fuse which is also a 30a fuse. Its not my fault you dont have power windows.

Alrite guys, i got my ignition fuse to stop popping. But i think that my main 100a fuse might pop. Can someone tell me why?

[idlafie]

i didnt take ur ignition fuse. I took ur power window fuse which is also a 30a fuse. Its not my fault you dont have power windows.

Alrite guys, i got my ignition fuse to stop popping. But i think that my main 100a fuse might pop. Can someone tell me why?

Check your ignition switch...you might have a short in the START position of the switch. That may have been one of the reasons why your car may have blowing the Ignition fuse. What was the recommended fuse size for the IGNITION fuse. By going to a higher wattage fuse, (30 amp), you may be slowing burning out the wires on your ignition system. Always stick with the recommended fuse size.
If you don't stay with the recommended fuse size & go up to a higher wattage fuse, then you run the risk of starting an electrical fire in your car wiring. Why? Because the higher wattage fuse allows more current to run thru the electrical wires. The more current running thru the wires, the hotter the wires get..the hotter the wires get, the more likely you will melt the plastic insulation surrounding the wires. Melt the plastic insulation surrounding the wires & you'll expose the wires themselves soon enough.
Anyhow, go back & check ALL the wires on your STARTER curcuit. This includes the positive & negative battery cables, the cable running from your positive battery post to your starter. The wire that runs from your ignition switch to your starter relay AND your starter. Any of these wires could have shorted out & be causing your problem.
ID
PS:
you get those rear calipers installed yet?? Have your buddy MAV27 hit me up...

[projectRDM]

There's a pretty common problem I've found on S14s when the 100A fuse blows. Check the engine harness, where the distributor/MAF section runs in front of the valve cover. Right before it makes the turn there's a sharp edge, part of the head, that it runs past. I've worked on three cars where the harness is rubbed through, shorting the main ignition to the coil. On one car it had fried the coil already.

[chlatboy]

What do you mean by rubbed? And how can you tell if your harness coil is fried?

[projectRDM]

Are you serious? Rubbed, like chafed, torn, punctured, forced into an object against it's will. It's an English word, found in the dictionary.

And where in hell did I say a 'harness coil'? Harness. Coil. Two different parts. Individual. Separate. Not common, or alike.

You'll know if the coil is fried. You won't have any spark.

[MELLO*SOS]

Sorry to bring up a 3 month old thread, but I am having this same exact problem with my DE and I'm curious what Chlatboy (or any others) ended up figuring out. I've already cleaned the battery/terminals with no luck.

Where was YOUR ignition short at & what seemed to cause it (rubbing, chafing, stupidity on your part, etc)?

Chlatboy: I sent you a PM