bodywork/primer HELP

[JDMvelocity]

hey, i'm planning to do the body work and sanding myself,primer and bringing it to a shop to spray the paint for me. The problem is the owner before primered the car without sanding off the clearcoat. What i'm trying to figure out is what sand paper should i use? i already tried 600 grit but its taking forever to do the bumper only. So i moved to 220 grit but i'm not sure if thats to low for the the car. So what grit would be suitable to take off the crappy prime job then taking off clear coat.

Now for priming the car is it true what i'm reading that prime from a can is bad?

and any sanding or prepping tips would be appreciated.

[final act]

primer from a can is not for cars, primer sealer is for cars! :spank: :smash:

[papershot]

if you're doing bodywork you might as well just sand down to the metal anyway. do the bodywork, add rust preventive thing, primer. using bondo and stuff on already painted parts is too difficult without getting to the metal.

if you just wanted to sand to the original paint to paint on that...just use 200-300 grit.

[RiceEata]

I painted my car, i'm not a pro but i guess i could help a little bit. i would do the bodywork first, make sure you use 60-80 grit so that the bondo sticks well to the car.

when your done with the bodywork, wet sand the whole car with 150-220 grit or what ever grit works best for you. try not to go to bare metal cause the water makes the metal rust, or atleast over here it does. double check the bodywork then work your way up to at least 400 grit to get out the deep scratches before you spray the primer sealer .

Oh and its a good time to roll/pull your fenders before you paint.

[JDMvelocity]

thanks for the advice and the body work i meant was shaving the 3rd brake light and rear side markers