Sr20 turbo heat & brake system?

[Rokafella]

Just got my swap up and running, it's still on the stock turbo, but my brake mc seems pretty hot. I plan on getting a shield for it, but I'm curious if anyone with stock setup has had problems without the mc heatshield. I'm just wondering if its safe to putz around to get tires, alignment, and some other work done without causing major damage.

[Kingtal0n]

yes they go up in flames regularly back when swaps were more popular and mostly top mount turbo stuff but nevertheless,

a shield is very cheap


def get a shield and I would do a double shield with a exhaust turbine blanket and some wrap to over-kill it and be sure
use the factory turbine outlet which is a very thick, cast iron piece, it will help with insulating the incredible heat and it is strong.

[Silv1401]

You can use my sponsor code at DEI to get 10٪ off heat shielding. :)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Rokafella]

Reliability is #1 for me so redundant forms of shielding makes sense. I am currently using the oem cast turbine outlet, and just ordered some wrap, the turbine blanket, heat tape, and a metal shield.

thanks a bunch for the response.

[Silv1401]

Probably should've included the code lol. "Willten" for the discount.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[brndck]

DEI makes all sorts of dope heat insulation products
https://designengineering.com/products/shields-reflectors/

[jedi03]

i ran fine without one...woulda loved to have one back then lol, one of mine I put a sweat band around the reservoir for a little peace of mind...

[brndck]

i ran fine without one...woulda loved to have one back then lol, one of mine I put a sweat band around the reservoir for a little peace of mind...

personally I never had any issues while I was bottom mount, but with top mount i'm def adding a ton of heat management devices (turbo blanket, header wrap, metal shield for the BMC, and DEI heat tape

[S14rebuild]

Bottom mount stock turbo sr, never had any issues

Top mount, i wrapped my downpipe and had a stainless turbo heat sheild..never had any problems with that

[Mikester]

Using a heat shield would be cool (no pun), but far from necessary on a stock setup... even with spirited driving amidst putting around. BUUT some well-placed heat shielding/blanket wouldn’t be a bad idea either.

Mike

[Silv1401]

If you go the turbiski blanket method, pro-tip: when your party whistle is all toasty, go ahead and tighten up all of your bolts. Or, go ahead and cut all of those bolt flanges off and get V-bands. Them blankets get turbos muuuch hotter, and cause the metal to expand more which can result in backing out bolts. Talking from experience. Also, really good way to turn any metal gaskets into exhaust-propelled-shrapnel.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[S14rebuild]

^ ARE YOU A RETARD?

100% serious question....

[Rokafella]

Lol elaborate please.

[Kingtal0n]

Hmm it depends what the bolt is made of vs the housing.

IF the bolt material have higher coefficient of expansion it would get tighter, I think, when heated

somebody look up and compare all the common materials i.e. cast iron, steel, iron, derivatives of each, composites, and compare their coefficients of expansion and consider the most common materials that bolts are made of plus whatever is available (inconel for example) and let us know the results,

I am way to busy to do that atm

it raises an interesting question of bolt behavior at various expansion rates in our typical situations which I have never had an issue with (just use high quality fasteners and done) but if you want an actual answer thats a potential pathway

[wurley]

whats a safe temp for the brake master cylinder? I know the fluid boils at a pretty high temp but my reservoir gets to about 130-140 F.

[Kingtal0n]

140-160*F the hood will get there just from being in the sun around here

I wouldnt worry about 150-160*F

180*F is when I start to raise an eyebrow
200*F I look for something to cool it down
220*F is hot enough to boil water (concerning)

anything over that ng