has anyone ever modified a s13 subframe to fit a 350Z diff

[700whps13]

I was wondering if anybody had ever modified a s13 subframe to fit a 350Z differential and axles in an s13 my car has a turbocharged 5.3 about 700 horsepower has a J30 diff and the gearing is way to low for the power it makes 4th gear is just a 2 second burn out with the 3.93 gears

[turbo2nr]

Just us a q45 diff, its easier and longer gearing.

350diff has been done but takes cutting and welding of the subframe.

** just found these**
https://www.maverick-motorsports.com/products/350z-370z-conversion-bushings
https://us.gktech.com/s-r-chassis-to-350-370z-diff-conversion-bushings

looks like it just got alot easier now to do a z/g diff conversion to s-chassis.

[brndck]

https://us.gktech.com/s-r-chassis-to-350-370z-diff-conversion-bushings
gktech bushings work, but only for s14 subframe

you could probably just drill a new hole to line up with the z33 diff cover?

but i'd want the whole subframe out of the car to have enough room to drill and shit

also, z1 diff cover is super cheap and super good upgrade
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-370z-g37-high-capacity-differential-cover-kit-p-8876.html

AND, apparently people have issues cracking z33 diff covers since they only have one mount point, so this is a good bit of kit to have as well but you could just make your own if you can weld
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/bell-raceworks/bell-raceworks-370z-g37-rear-differential-brace-p-14117.html

[foreverdeath]

There is an alternative to the z33 cover is the R51 cover. Its a 2 bolt which IIRC is about an inch more narrow then the s14 spacing. I started modifying a S13 subframe, got the diff in place but, never got around to finishing it. Mainly cause I haven't had a chance to get a better R&P set then the R51 2.3. Ratios go from 2.3 in the R51 all the way to 4.6 in newer 2.5 frontiers. It also comes with a axle output flanges that are bigger then the Z/G but they swap over.

There's an issue with the conversion bushings that most people done see. It lowers the differential placement in the car ~3/4 inch. This not only increases the drive shaft u joint angles accelerating wear but, increases the driveshaft angles weakening the their joints especially on a lowered car.
https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58419435_10213706162064316_6053367150825963520_n.j pg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent.forf1-1.fna&oh=df72d2f3bcbc04607b50039a52a6ed95&oe=5D37B78D
https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58729784_10213706160864286_6088577331373277184_n.j pg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent.forf1-2.fna&oh=1ecf4440f7bde4e08dc040dad9022ab0&oe=5D3BD112

[700whps13]

looks like I will have to do a full write-up on it when I get the parts to do so because the q45 diff is just geared way too low for my application

[TheRealSy90]

Any updates on this?

[duncan351]

Just us a q45 diff, its easier and longer gearing.

350diff has been done but takes cutting and welding of the subframe.

** just found these**
https://www.maverick-motorsports.com/products/350z-370z-conversion-bushings
https://us.gktech.com/s-r-chassis-to-350-370z-diff-conversion-bushings

looks like it just got alot easier now to do a z/g diff conversion to s-chassis.

Just because companies comes up with some bullshit bushings can makes the part physically bolt doesn't mean its correct. Notice there isn't even 1 picture with a z33 diff bolted to a S14 subframe with the factory sway bar. The reason is the z33 diff isn't physically in the same position as factory R200 diff. Its actually off by a lot. Like mentioned earlier you have to drop the subframe out of the car and modify the subframe to accept the Z33 diff. I just finished doing mine 6 mths ago. If you don't have experience fabrication I would not recommend doing this job. You have to make sure the diff is in the same location as the factory diff so that your driveshaft angle is still factory.

[cespana]

the GK Tech conversion Kit will work if you have an R200 Diff. But it for some reason you have an S13 or S14 with R180 Diff ( Only applies if you have JDM Q's Silvias N/A) it wont work. Besides that , theres no issues.

[brndck]

Just because companies comes up with some bullshit bushings can makes the part physically bolt doesn't mean its correct. Notice there isn't even 1 picture with a z33 diff bolted to a S14 subframe with the factory sway bar. The reason is the z33 diff isn't physically in the same position as factory R200 diff. Its actually off by a lot. Like mentioned earlier you have to drop the subframe out of the car and modify the subframe to accept the Z33 diff. I just finished doing mine 6 mths ago. You have to make sure the diff is in the same location as the factory diff so that your driveshaft angle is still factory.

so. . . . you're saying you can't run a sway bar with a z33 diff?

what modification did you have to do to your subframe?

people have been using subframe risers or spacers to shim or clock the subframe for quite a few years now, with no issues. In your experience, does installing the z33 diff change the driveshaft angle that much, that it would be damaging to the U-joints?