David B S12
03-17-2019, 01:36 PM
its March 2019 and forums still exist
** Redoing this original post - i used facebook links of the pictures and they died. im sorry
I own 3 240's and this is my daily driver , ive daily driven well over half a million miles or more in S chassis's since i got my permit. No savior honda civic, or weekend meets lol, all of it. I have only had some form of a S chassis as means for primary transportation no matter what, thats what I do, ride or die mothaflocka.
The other two S14's being 1j's the beams seemed like a great alternative choice, a couple months research and ordering parts the original swap was completed in 3 days 2 years ago and met my "experimental" budget at about 3000$, it probably costs a but more today or less depending on the market and options for swap parts . I like the iron block, timing belt, high compression dual vvti & 6 speed trans for the price. They are picky with fuel / intake / speed sensor and other quirky things although the Altezza link / ITbs or supercharger is a common options (auto motor is lower compression for turbo and boost )
Ka's are expensive now, I can't get over it. I hate looking at them and working on them, sure they spin the tires but really they are not a very fun motor to enjoy driving with, maybe I have just grown out of them. Sr20s are all crusty and expensive, etc, they can't handle accidents like overheating and also like the KA, timing chain which makes repair a pita, I hate removing front covers with a passion especially nissan stuff. I wanted AC and enough power to pass people on the highway. Then maintain good fuel mileage and have some good times on a back road or two headed out of state. Then drive to work every day all days of the year.. Thats what led me in this direction plus being a unique swap and documenting for the community is always a +1 similar to my original 1jz swapped S12 about a decade ago
A/C works and power steering bolts up, the mounts are modified excessive mounts. The engine has a natural tilt i have removed so the shifter sits at a slight 5 degree angle. Barely noticeable, the shifter location fits well and the oil pan clears the stock swaybar. No subframe issues at all or hood issues. I did install a slim profile water neck on the back of the engine and cleaned up the bypass hose for optimal clearance to set the engine as far back as possible. Fuel is converted from single feed to the 240s return lines but flared to AN. Then aermotive 340 pump & Tomei regulator
The most complex part of the swap is modifying the headers to clear the column but thays common on most swaps anyways. Wiring is not complicated and I use Torque pro to scan codes and view more data. Stock ecu
The engine is so far back and the top end is incredible, it packs a nice healthy punch from 6 to 8k revs (vtak baby), it really shines on back roads and if your good with rev matching and cornering. Tons of extra control with the engine and the revs. The flywheel is an 11 lb toda flywheel , which is a dramatic loss over the original dual mass 32 lb'r. The intake is SO loud. The motor sounds awesome. Consider two resonators and a muffler to dampen the exhaust so you can hear that intake sing and keep the cops off your back
Flip a Ka's power band upside down and throw 50 horsepower at it and this is generally where your at with the beams on stock form. Although my intentions are just to drive from A to B I wasn't necessarily trying to have a 3rd 1jz swap car and did not want an NA sr20 given the nicer quality of the Toyota unit which is superior in my own opinion
Bottom line is this. Rather then complain or deal with stuff you don't like about the market these days, pave your own way and write down some notes for the next guy. If yall want these cars to stay around then finding lil 4 bangers that fit and run nice sometimes is better then a money pit that can't get you down the road 100k without just oil changes brakes and tires. Not all cars should be intended to be drift cars (coming from a well seasoned veteran) so consider restoring and dailying the car you like so you can enjoy it every day rather then keep it locked up in a garage to be sold because its so valuable. Some day there will be no more Ka's and Sr's that are affordable for the regular enthusiast.
anyways heres a quick brush from what i can remember before i forget. sorry if its not as Buildish as it was before. now all my photos are on flickr
i Paid 900$ for the beams swap - nobody wanted them early 2019 - i always be peepin them 4 cylinder JZ's hiding in the corner of the importer my whole car life, begging for a home
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639643818_26a1875407_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RpRd)
52993357_10157000446584556_7360219690615963648_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RpRd) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
heres the excessive motor mounts, they did not fit , i had to modify the brackets and the mounts to actually even bolt the engine up. i provided information to xcessive and got a pat on the back. thanks guys
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383341_448d62f8a1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcFB)
46443416_10156767308719556_8208841057199194112_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcFB) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383286_47529c7385_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcEE)46458088_10156767308604556_844986334756156 2112_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcEE) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
brackets slotted and dropped the drivers side down like an inch, the trans mount was a slotted 1jz trans bracket
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463362_238a65b7c3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBth)
53050751_10157004602439556_31272442861191168_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBth) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
ebay celica intake is a good start for the intake
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383571_314c90b4f4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcKz)
41033322_10156594654579556_497156955731656704_n (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcKz) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463807_34fd4913ca_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBAX)
40818570_10156594654484556_7280373443969679360_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBAX) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
various tid bits about parts - ur welcome
battle garage is your friend , they are on ebay too
if your missing a brain box, gs300 is the same. EBayyyyy
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635568_90eacf60b6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnoY)
50491055_10156918835109556_195797637650186240_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnoY) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639636203_62400587cc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnzV)
40406658_10156579485769556_4696233437491625984_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnzV) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635903_a639e03350_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnuK)
41111500_10156594653984556_310321325690322944_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnuK) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
31126 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
31126-14010 1 $16.45
31204 FORK SUB-ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
31204-43010 1 $106.83
31210 COVER ASSY, CLUTCH
31210-22150 1 $183.55
31230 BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
31230-53010 1 $50.42
31232A CLIP, RELEASE BEARING HUB
31232-36030 TYPE A:イラストサンシヨウ 1 $2.17
31236B SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK
31236-14010 1 $24.91
31250 DISC ASSY, CLUTCH
31250-53012 1 $164.54
33311W BEARING (FOR INPUT SHAFT)
90363-12004 1 $40.72
90119-08026 *** STD. PART $0.71
16361A BELT, V(FOR FAN & ALTERNATOR)
99364-30780 1 $33.41
44310A BELT, V(FOR VANE PUMP)
Not applicable
88310A BELT, V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY), NO.1
99364-31220 長さ=1220 1 $54.84
11115 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
11115-88570
some wire stuff and info
DOWNLOAD THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zhdVpq5Kxa5fsePTW0G-gzo0yLO97GG4/view?fbclid=IwAR17J35VJMA-DZMtmwSXNSPv9girx-BKZSIid41W6bisknGis8F1IS7FJyw
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463847_1a5b7a28b1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBBD)
40513321_10156579485529556_4807179404889292800_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBBD) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383826_9f8a2a3d5e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcPY)
40417726_10156579486234556_8605977020700033024_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcPY) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639636058_908f6419fc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnxq)
40466568_10156579486354556_3794332318701715456_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnxq) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?43016-Beams-Wiring-running-a-stock-ECU-from-scratch-Q-s&fbclid=IwAR3s_Cv7-nliZ7kcKRL9J4eLccWGfCRNDdgyg_XLfIQeay_OiyDkpcdanCM
E1, constant power, fused
E8, E10, E16, A6, switched power.
D26, tach, need tach adapter for accuracy/function
B3 and A28 will go to the oxygen sensor (will run without it) but let me know when you get to this. It’ll probably be the very last part of your swap.
All switched wires should be able to run off of your old coil power wire, but I’d recommend using a relay to avoid voltage drop
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635638_bb8b78a2d3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnqb)
49525724_10156876181684556_1057875179721457664_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnqb) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
Maf on the right. Injectors and coils on the left. Ontop of powering the ECU and throttle body that's what was left. The maf power plug also has a alternator plug not pictured. It's on the second row down and the second to last pin from left to right . Needs 12 volts as well. *still needs revision to see if the injector and coils need direct power. This worked for me but I read otherwise the ECU powers them
i used a pickup 22r disk and have the part number (there are two part #'s but this one is IT, go to your local toyota and order. yay)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635788_36dc11d257_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnsL)
45193706_10156725751629556_6147545896612528128_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnsL) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
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45221568_10156725751309556_5004779421270278144_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBxq) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
wix single feed fuel setup - this got me rolling for a year - i switched it up but to stay timeline correct ill still advise this is the cheapest way to get running, the beams asks for 62 psi and this wa s58 - it worked.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635608_c081b6301b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnpE)
50234180_10156907854189556_2898316692381761536_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnpE) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
UM YEA, they make a radiator for a beams swap, well it is for a hachi roku but who cares, its got to fit
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463912_1360fcbde0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBCL)
40461148_10156579486484556_3389560311370481664_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBCL) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
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50775365_10156918795769556_8956741347587391488_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcBP) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
yes , just slot the mounts and then bore out the bushings with a drill bit, i bent the top mounts to secure it in place
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463282_25e5e3645f_b.jpg
(https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBrU)53287700_10157011151259556_610949167891611 648_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBrU) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
i used the mishimoto hachi fans and included a mishi fan controller that threads into the radiator
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463227_5430b951a3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqX)
53701942_10157011151154556_4011723475663192064_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqX) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
i had 3 days off at work and couple months research and parts ordering, this was the weekend where i tossed it all in and ended up making it happen despite discovering the engine mount issues which set me back a solid 6 hours
BYE KA - NEVER AGAIN
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382966_536b027def_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcz9)
53364393_10157004602759556_1316843917915717632_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcz9) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
yea thats a plastic roll cart
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635468_7f46c61d65_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnnf)
52977657_10157004602644556_3016517293334069248_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnnf) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
that moment when you know its gonna work ( i had already pre wired and ran the engine on the stand)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382956_aa11871c33_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcyY)
53501965_10157004601859556_4071379420353396736_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcyY) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382971_1475306ca0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcze)
53320720_10157004602074556_5695634041932349440_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcze) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
w58 yoke should work on the J160 6 speed- shaftmasters online set me right
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53146083_10157011151429556_4117591348607975424_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnmD) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635423_c04b51933c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnmt)
53150291_10157011151509556_2857591013617172480_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnmt) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
so i found this automatic beams altezza down pipe on europe ebay for 50$, shipping was 100$ but i really liked the dual pipes they were easy to weld and configure to get around the steering shaft. this seems to be a popular problem with the beams swap, ur gonna need a welder lol
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383031_34d015fb1a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAg)
53077634_10157004604259556_5398663527592361984_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAg) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
Maybe i worked @ a muffler shop in my previous life? just kidding but i was really happy with this exaust, dual resonaters highly reccomended to guys that like to hear the engine and not just the exhaust
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635283_751d3fc6b8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnj4)
56786223_10157082161314556_2451049982271160320_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnj4) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382901_ea50c26626_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcy2)
56922716_10157082161344556_3831874924188794880_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcy2) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
yea it fits pretty well. i did get the motor further back a tiny bit after this pic.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383056_9f96f6be0e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAG)
53018051_10157004601754556_5310702867953221632_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAG) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
p0500 speed sensor code removal - convert your 3 wire signal to 2 wire, output to cluster, then cluster to ecu so ecu gets signal. p0500 effects the timing
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382886_b333de2614_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcxL)82159153_10157830064174556_513572774715011 8912_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcxL) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
use any "dead" wires to your advantage, aka the original toyota engine harness on the beams to throw power to the engine bay
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635228_22a9aa623c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rni7)
82198406_10157830047094556_7906024611333013504_n (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rni7) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
tigg'd the a/c lines - wiring is quite simple. screw all that nonsense, run that bish through the triple pressure sensor and cycle the clutch off of that, the beams is eletric throttle so dont forget to power your a/c clutch signal to the power steering pin on the ecu to get some RPM bump, along with triggering your a/c fans if your using the same fan controller as me
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635263_8bba4baf30_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RniH)
67299935_10157363872059556_1558577648135831552_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RniH) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635253_06999e32d2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnix)
67387195_10157363871999556_2297935484795486208_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnix) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635243_e1cf89b0e2_b.jpg
(https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnin)67406698_10157363871954556_258621907129702 8096_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnin) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
AIR FLOW STRAIGHTENER critical, must straighten airflow. use HKS pod or get a straightener. i rivited this in my pipe. guess where i got it "honeycomb"
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463197_3318fe713c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqr)
54520879_10157035970394556_354534676813053952_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqr) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
torque pro
Obd2 port install / using Torque App
- here are the pins you need off the ob2 port plug itself - pins -4, 7, 9 ,13 , 16
Pins off obd2 port to Ecu pins
-Pin 4 is ground ( I just used chassis ground )
-7 goes to pin E11 on the Ecu
-9 goes to pin D26 on Ecu
-13 goes to pin D24 on Ecu
-16 goes to pin E16 or E8 (B+)
Bought this obd2 scanner
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011NSX27A/ref=yo_ii_img...
Picked up one of these obd2 ports off eBay https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KF0ZQVC/ref=yo_ii_img...
Then. I downloaded torque app
Note - need to change protocol for the beams Ecu to be recognized
Create a profile and scroll all the way to the bottom were it says "very advanced-elm327"
ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION BELOW IS IMPORTANT
Type in - ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 - exactly how it's typed and spaced then save the profile and your all set should link up to Ecu with no issues
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463157_f807e5e30b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBpK)
55698651_10157065726544556_7879858562464219136_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBpK) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463142_fbd549c75f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBpu)
55788320_10157065726579556_7285388136115339264_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBpu) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
startup video
MEo90QxIOGk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEo90QxIOGk
checked fuel pressure
KJZFCuVSqv0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJZFCuVSqv0
YAY! happily ever after - close curtains.
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53778714_10157018299579556_1380397807420047360_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnjE) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
ok, now a year goes by. the beams swap i got was a bad egg. it was consuming a shit load of oil. eventually it started knocking and it threw a bearing on my 3 mile commute home,wow, gay. i have drifted for 10 years beating on cars and never thrown a bearing. i tossed this up as a neglected motor and decided to continue on and source a newer gen beams motor (g3)
i coasted down my street into the driveway where she died :(
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635198_e895552f02_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnhA)
91505287_10158068222079556_4872631137362509824_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnhA) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382861_760e15238f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcxk)
91508609_10158068221544556_4753035019931353088_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcxk) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
of course i organized everything and collected all the parts for the future since i am a long term car enthusiast, i dont really give up and expect to need these parts later, i did trade that stupid block for a blow off valve. yea boi i got ALL major sensors in the trunk.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463052_f1a7f923b9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBnW)
91753567_10158068221894556_4848838392932204544_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBnW) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
my other bitches side to side
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635173_d2c91e62a5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnha)91545440_10158068221749556_570935613602555 4944_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnha) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
got a new engine, blah blah, thanks market. now they cost 1400$
DO YOURSELF A MASSIVE FAVOR AND DITCH THE STOCK DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL, what a load of garbage, it was so looose and you could feel it driving, this toda 11 lb is freaking great!! the original wheel was 32 lbs
peep the slimline bypass, get it if you want to squeeze the engine back like i did, so you dont rub coolant lines on the firewall and give your self headaches later
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382751_f397451499_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcvr)
93770289_10158127522454556_88273672560705536_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcvr) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND UPGRADE THE FUEL PUMP, the stock pump sucked!! this aeromnotive 340 made my shit feel way better, i was def running a bit low pressure for a year
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640462957_d2fe823767_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBmi)
94073899_10158138921119556_5549292673522728960_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBmi) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
with the new engine at work and my car in the driveway i did some matrix shit and managed to get everything lined up. i bought a 37 degree flare tool (not 45 degree brake line) and flared the stock lines to AN, utilizing a tube nut this is a quality way to ditch all rubber hoses and is safe and secure.
i always remove the pan - engine right side up, and replace main seals and thermostat when putting any motor of mine in
i replace the timing belt but not the timing components or water pump.. its a toyota dude. im just a tech of 10+ years whatever dont listen. plus its a hella easy to work on later and check for other actual problems.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382781_1d5967659d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcvX)
92912212_10158101493224556_42579180491112448_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcvX) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382796_442035ed66_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcwd)
92755407_10158101493139556_8017581658087620608_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcwd) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
return style now, much better. i love how i got the K&N adapter and the stock lines 37 degreed flare. that filter is like 10 bucks to change later, GM power steering an adapters are what i used to convert the filter to AN
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463022_56a5c18de4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBnq)
92572794_10158101492994556_7437629269171240960_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBnq) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
new motor going in, i had to drive my 7.5 liter f250 for like 2 freagin weeks getting 1mpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635098_eea875c6d3_b.jpg
(https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnfS)93473302_10158127522519556_828432634867194 2656_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnfS) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
started a Facebook 240sx beams swap page find it for more info or others interested if u want
-David Bellomo
** Redoing this original post - i used facebook links of the pictures and they died. im sorry
I own 3 240's and this is my daily driver , ive daily driven well over half a million miles or more in S chassis's since i got my permit. No savior honda civic, or weekend meets lol, all of it. I have only had some form of a S chassis as means for primary transportation no matter what, thats what I do, ride or die mothaflocka.
The other two S14's being 1j's the beams seemed like a great alternative choice, a couple months research and ordering parts the original swap was completed in 3 days 2 years ago and met my "experimental" budget at about 3000$, it probably costs a but more today or less depending on the market and options for swap parts . I like the iron block, timing belt, high compression dual vvti & 6 speed trans for the price. They are picky with fuel / intake / speed sensor and other quirky things although the Altezza link / ITbs or supercharger is a common options (auto motor is lower compression for turbo and boost )
Ka's are expensive now, I can't get over it. I hate looking at them and working on them, sure they spin the tires but really they are not a very fun motor to enjoy driving with, maybe I have just grown out of them. Sr20s are all crusty and expensive, etc, they can't handle accidents like overheating and also like the KA, timing chain which makes repair a pita, I hate removing front covers with a passion especially nissan stuff. I wanted AC and enough power to pass people on the highway. Then maintain good fuel mileage and have some good times on a back road or two headed out of state. Then drive to work every day all days of the year.. Thats what led me in this direction plus being a unique swap and documenting for the community is always a +1 similar to my original 1jz swapped S12 about a decade ago
A/C works and power steering bolts up, the mounts are modified excessive mounts. The engine has a natural tilt i have removed so the shifter sits at a slight 5 degree angle. Barely noticeable, the shifter location fits well and the oil pan clears the stock swaybar. No subframe issues at all or hood issues. I did install a slim profile water neck on the back of the engine and cleaned up the bypass hose for optimal clearance to set the engine as far back as possible. Fuel is converted from single feed to the 240s return lines but flared to AN. Then aermotive 340 pump & Tomei regulator
The most complex part of the swap is modifying the headers to clear the column but thays common on most swaps anyways. Wiring is not complicated and I use Torque pro to scan codes and view more data. Stock ecu
The engine is so far back and the top end is incredible, it packs a nice healthy punch from 6 to 8k revs (vtak baby), it really shines on back roads and if your good with rev matching and cornering. Tons of extra control with the engine and the revs. The flywheel is an 11 lb toda flywheel , which is a dramatic loss over the original dual mass 32 lb'r. The intake is SO loud. The motor sounds awesome. Consider two resonators and a muffler to dampen the exhaust so you can hear that intake sing and keep the cops off your back
Flip a Ka's power band upside down and throw 50 horsepower at it and this is generally where your at with the beams on stock form. Although my intentions are just to drive from A to B I wasn't necessarily trying to have a 3rd 1jz swap car and did not want an NA sr20 given the nicer quality of the Toyota unit which is superior in my own opinion
Bottom line is this. Rather then complain or deal with stuff you don't like about the market these days, pave your own way and write down some notes for the next guy. If yall want these cars to stay around then finding lil 4 bangers that fit and run nice sometimes is better then a money pit that can't get you down the road 100k without just oil changes brakes and tires. Not all cars should be intended to be drift cars (coming from a well seasoned veteran) so consider restoring and dailying the car you like so you can enjoy it every day rather then keep it locked up in a garage to be sold because its so valuable. Some day there will be no more Ka's and Sr's that are affordable for the regular enthusiast.
anyways heres a quick brush from what i can remember before i forget. sorry if its not as Buildish as it was before. now all my photos are on flickr
i Paid 900$ for the beams swap - nobody wanted them early 2019 - i always be peepin them 4 cylinder JZ's hiding in the corner of the importer my whole car life, begging for a home
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639643818_26a1875407_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RpRd)
52993357_10157000446584556_7360219690615963648_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RpRd) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
heres the excessive motor mounts, they did not fit , i had to modify the brackets and the mounts to actually even bolt the engine up. i provided information to xcessive and got a pat on the back. thanks guys
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383341_448d62f8a1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcFB)
46443416_10156767308719556_8208841057199194112_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcFB) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383286_47529c7385_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcEE)46458088_10156767308604556_844986334756156 2112_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcEE) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
brackets slotted and dropped the drivers side down like an inch, the trans mount was a slotted 1jz trans bracket
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463362_238a65b7c3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBth)
53050751_10157004602439556_31272442861191168_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBth) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
ebay celica intake is a good start for the intake
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383571_314c90b4f4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcKz)
41033322_10156594654579556_497156955731656704_n (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcKz) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463807_34fd4913ca_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBAX)
40818570_10156594654484556_7280373443969679360_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBAX) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
various tid bits about parts - ur welcome
battle garage is your friend , they are on ebay too
if your missing a brain box, gs300 is the same. EBayyyyy
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635568_90eacf60b6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnoY)
50491055_10156918835109556_195797637650186240_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnoY) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639636203_62400587cc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnzV)
40406658_10156579485769556_4696233437491625984_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnzV) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635903_a639e03350_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnuK)
41111500_10156594653984556_310321325690322944_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnuK) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
31126 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
31126-14010 1 $16.45
31204 FORK SUB-ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
31204-43010 1 $106.83
31210 COVER ASSY, CLUTCH
31210-22150 1 $183.55
31230 BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
31230-53010 1 $50.42
31232A CLIP, RELEASE BEARING HUB
31232-36030 TYPE A:イラストサンシヨウ 1 $2.17
31236B SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK
31236-14010 1 $24.91
31250 DISC ASSY, CLUTCH
31250-53012 1 $164.54
33311W BEARING (FOR INPUT SHAFT)
90363-12004 1 $40.72
90119-08026 *** STD. PART $0.71
16361A BELT, V(FOR FAN & ALTERNATOR)
99364-30780 1 $33.41
44310A BELT, V(FOR VANE PUMP)
Not applicable
88310A BELT, V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY), NO.1
99364-31220 長さ=1220 1 $54.84
11115 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
11115-88570
some wire stuff and info
DOWNLOAD THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zhdVpq5Kxa5fsePTW0G-gzo0yLO97GG4/view?fbclid=IwAR17J35VJMA-DZMtmwSXNSPv9girx-BKZSIid41W6bisknGis8F1IS7FJyw
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463847_1a5b7a28b1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBBD)
40513321_10156579485529556_4807179404889292800_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBBD) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383826_9f8a2a3d5e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcPY)
40417726_10156579486234556_8605977020700033024_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcPY) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639636058_908f6419fc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnxq)
40466568_10156579486354556_3794332318701715456_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnxq) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?43016-Beams-Wiring-running-a-stock-ECU-from-scratch-Q-s&fbclid=IwAR3s_Cv7-nliZ7kcKRL9J4eLccWGfCRNDdgyg_XLfIQeay_OiyDkpcdanCM
E1, constant power, fused
E8, E10, E16, A6, switched power.
D26, tach, need tach adapter for accuracy/function
B3 and A28 will go to the oxygen sensor (will run without it) but let me know when you get to this. It’ll probably be the very last part of your swap.
All switched wires should be able to run off of your old coil power wire, but I’d recommend using a relay to avoid voltage drop
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635638_bb8b78a2d3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnqb)
49525724_10156876181684556_1057875179721457664_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnqb) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
Maf on the right. Injectors and coils on the left. Ontop of powering the ECU and throttle body that's what was left. The maf power plug also has a alternator plug not pictured. It's on the second row down and the second to last pin from left to right . Needs 12 volts as well. *still needs revision to see if the injector and coils need direct power. This worked for me but I read otherwise the ECU powers them
i used a pickup 22r disk and have the part number (there are two part #'s but this one is IT, go to your local toyota and order. yay)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635788_36dc11d257_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnsL)
45193706_10156725751629556_6147545896612528128_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnsL) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463602_bc4f1e62f5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBxq)
45221568_10156725751309556_5004779421270278144_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBxq) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
wix single feed fuel setup - this got me rolling for a year - i switched it up but to stay timeline correct ill still advise this is the cheapest way to get running, the beams asks for 62 psi and this wa s58 - it worked.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635608_c081b6301b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnpE)
50234180_10156907854189556_2898316692381761536_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnpE) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
UM YEA, they make a radiator for a beams swap, well it is for a hachi roku but who cares, its got to fit
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463912_1360fcbde0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBCL)
40461148_10156579486484556_3389560311370481664_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBCL) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383121_aab5e23a76_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcBP)
50775365_10156918795769556_8956741347587391488_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcBP) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
yes , just slot the mounts and then bore out the bushings with a drill bit, i bent the top mounts to secure it in place
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463282_25e5e3645f_b.jpg
(https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBrU)53287700_10157011151259556_610949167891611 648_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBrU) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
i used the mishimoto hachi fans and included a mishi fan controller that threads into the radiator
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463227_5430b951a3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqX)
53701942_10157011151154556_4011723475663192064_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqX) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
i had 3 days off at work and couple months research and parts ordering, this was the weekend where i tossed it all in and ended up making it happen despite discovering the engine mount issues which set me back a solid 6 hours
BYE KA - NEVER AGAIN
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382966_536b027def_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcz9)
53364393_10157004602759556_1316843917915717632_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcz9) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
yea thats a plastic roll cart
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635468_7f46c61d65_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnnf)
52977657_10157004602644556_3016517293334069248_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnnf) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
that moment when you know its gonna work ( i had already pre wired and ran the engine on the stand)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382956_aa11871c33_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcyY)
53501965_10157004601859556_4071379420353396736_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcyY) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382971_1475306ca0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcze)
53320720_10157004602074556_5695634041932349440_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcze) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
w58 yoke should work on the J160 6 speed- shaftmasters online set me right
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635433_f2f0d06e5d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnmD)
53146083_10157011151429556_4117591348607975424_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnmD) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635423_c04b51933c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnmt)
53150291_10157011151509556_2857591013617172480_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnmt) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
so i found this automatic beams altezza down pipe on europe ebay for 50$, shipping was 100$ but i really liked the dual pipes they were easy to weld and configure to get around the steering shaft. this seems to be a popular problem with the beams swap, ur gonna need a welder lol
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383031_34d015fb1a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAg)
53077634_10157004604259556_5398663527592361984_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAg) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
Maybe i worked @ a muffler shop in my previous life? just kidding but i was really happy with this exaust, dual resonaters highly reccomended to guys that like to hear the engine and not just the exhaust
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635283_751d3fc6b8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnj4)
56786223_10157082161314556_2451049982271160320_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnj4) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382901_ea50c26626_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcy2)
56922716_10157082161344556_3831874924188794880_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcy2) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
yea it fits pretty well. i did get the motor further back a tiny bit after this pic.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640383056_9f96f6be0e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAG)
53018051_10157004601754556_5310702867953221632_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcAG) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
p0500 speed sensor code removal - convert your 3 wire signal to 2 wire, output to cluster, then cluster to ecu so ecu gets signal. p0500 effects the timing
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640382886_b333de2614_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcxL)82159153_10157830064174556_513572774715011 8912_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcxL) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
use any "dead" wires to your advantage, aka the original toyota engine harness on the beams to throw power to the engine bay
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635228_22a9aa623c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rni7)
82198406_10157830047094556_7906024611333013504_n (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rni7) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
tigg'd the a/c lines - wiring is quite simple. screw all that nonsense, run that bish through the triple pressure sensor and cycle the clutch off of that, the beams is eletric throttle so dont forget to power your a/c clutch signal to the power steering pin on the ecu to get some RPM bump, along with triggering your a/c fans if your using the same fan controller as me
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635263_8bba4baf30_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RniH)
67299935_10157363872059556_1558577648135831552_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RniH) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635253_06999e32d2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnix)
67387195_10157363871999556_2297935484795486208_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnix) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50639635243_e1cf89b0e2_b.jpg
(https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnin)67406698_10157363871954556_258621907129702 8096_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Rnin) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
AIR FLOW STRAIGHTENER critical, must straighten airflow. use HKS pod or get a straightener. i rivited this in my pipe. guess where i got it "honeycomb"
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463197_3318fe713c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqr)
54520879_10157035970394556_354534676813053952_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBqr) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
torque pro
Obd2 port install / using Torque App
- here are the pins you need off the ob2 port plug itself - pins -4, 7, 9 ,13 , 16
Pins off obd2 port to Ecu pins
-Pin 4 is ground ( I just used chassis ground )
-7 goes to pin E11 on the Ecu
-9 goes to pin D26 on Ecu
-13 goes to pin D24 on Ecu
-16 goes to pin E16 or E8 (B+)
Bought this obd2 scanner
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011NSX27A/ref=yo_ii_img...
Picked up one of these obd2 ports off eBay https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KF0ZQVC/ref=yo_ii_img...
Then. I downloaded torque app
Note - need to change protocol for the beams Ecu to be recognized
Create a profile and scroll all the way to the bottom were it says "very advanced-elm327"
ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION ATTENTION BELOW IS IMPORTANT
Type in - ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 - exactly how it's typed and spaced then save the profile and your all set should link up to Ecu with no issues
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50640463157_f807e5e30b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBpK)
55698651_10157065726544556_7879858562464219136_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBpK) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
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startup video
MEo90QxIOGk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEo90QxIOGk
checked fuel pressure
KJZFCuVSqv0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJZFCuVSqv0
YAY! happily ever after - close curtains.
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53778714_10157018299579556_1380397807420047360_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnjE) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
ok, now a year goes by. the beams swap i got was a bad egg. it was consuming a shit load of oil. eventually it started knocking and it threw a bearing on my 3 mile commute home,wow, gay. i have drifted for 10 years beating on cars and never thrown a bearing. i tossed this up as a neglected motor and decided to continue on and source a newer gen beams motor (g3)
i coasted down my street into the driveway where she died :(
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91505287_10158068222079556_4872631137362509824_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9RnhA) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
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91508609_10158068221544556_4753035019931353088_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcxk) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
of course i organized everything and collected all the parts for the future since i am a long term car enthusiast, i dont really give up and expect to need these parts later, i did trade that stupid block for a blow off valve. yea boi i got ALL major sensors in the trunk.
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91753567_10158068221894556_4848838392932204544_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBnW) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
my other bitches side to side
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got a new engine, blah blah, thanks market. now they cost 1400$
DO YOURSELF A MASSIVE FAVOR AND DITCH THE STOCK DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL, what a load of garbage, it was so looose and you could feel it driving, this toda 11 lb is freaking great!! the original wheel was 32 lbs
peep the slimline bypass, get it if you want to squeeze the engine back like i did, so you dont rub coolant lines on the firewall and give your self headaches later
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93770289_10158127522454556_88273672560705536_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcvr) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND UPGRADE THE FUEL PUMP, the stock pump sucked!! this aeromnotive 340 made my shit feel way better, i was def running a bit low pressure for a year
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94073899_10158138921119556_5549292673522728960_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBmi) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
with the new engine at work and my car in the driveway i did some matrix shit and managed to get everything lined up. i bought a 37 degree flare tool (not 45 degree brake line) and flared the stock lines to AN, utilizing a tube nut this is a quality way to ditch all rubber hoses and is safe and secure.
i always remove the pan - engine right side up, and replace main seals and thermostat when putting any motor of mine in
i replace the timing belt but not the timing components or water pump.. its a toyota dude. im just a tech of 10+ years whatever dont listen. plus its a hella easy to work on later and check for other actual problems.
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92912212_10158101493224556_42579180491112448_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VcvX) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
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92755407_10158101493139556_8017581658087620608_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9Vcwd) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
return style now, much better. i love how i got the K&N adapter and the stock lines 37 degreed flare. that filter is like 10 bucks to change later, GM power steering an adapters are what i used to convert the filter to AN
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92572794_10158101492994556_7437629269171240960_o (https://flic.kr/p/2k9VBnq) by david bellomo (https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/), on Flickr
new motor going in, i had to drive my 7.5 liter f250 for like 2 freagin weeks getting 1mpg
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started a Facebook 240sx beams swap page find it for more info or others interested if u want
-David Bellomo