Update on built motor *PIX*

[IvanAtSPRacing]

I got two blocks back from the machine shop and started assembly today.

http://www.phatka-t.com/parts.JPG
Arais pistons, Shotpeened factory rods with ARP BBC bolts (circled), Clevite bearings.

http://www.phatka-t.com/parts2.JPG
Micropolished crank, main girdle, rebuilt reworked front cover with oil pump.

http://www.phatka-t.com/blockside.JPG
Bored, honed w/ deckplate, painted block.

http://www.phatka-t.com/oilport.JPG
Surface decked for Cometic gasket, brass oil port pulled and tapped for plug (circled)

http://www.phatka-t.com/Blockbottom.JPG
Notice the factory piston squirters reinstalled, Clevite bearings with assembly lube.

http://www.phatka-t.com/blockbottomcrank.JPG
Crankshaft nicely tucked into place.

http://www.phatka-t.com/tools.JPG
Electric ring filer, feeler gauges, etc

I got the block, crank, main girdle all ready to go. Popped the oil squirters back into the block after blowing them out well. Installed the bearings in the block and lubed them up. Layed the crank into place. Installed the bearings in the main girdle (dry) and plastic gauged the mains. With just a polish on the crank and the main crank bore untouched, the oil clearance was exactly what I wanted (.002") all the way across. Once I cleaned the PG off the crank and bearings, I lubed up the lower main bearings and torqued the girdle into place. The crank spins like butter. No rough spots.

I checked ring gaps and found the top ring to be too tight for my liking so I spent about 1/2 hour filing the rings to fit. The Bottom rings were fine from Arais for a boosted application so I didnt have to file them. Thats about as far as I got today.

Monday I hope to get the entire rotating assembly together.

I will keep you updated

[ledzeppelin240]

Nice work so far. What compression do you plan to run?

-chris

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Arais pistons are 8.8 CR. Nice pistons too. Ring lands are a LOT thicker and the whole pack is much lower then stock.

http://www.phatka-t.com/ringlands.JPG

[Andrew Bohan]

i wish i had done all that. then my new motor wouldn't have taken a shit after only 300 miles on it.
keep up the good work, it looks nice!

[IvanAtSPRacing]

i wish i had done all that. then my new motor wouldn't have taken a shit after only 300 miles on it.
keep up the good work, it looks nice!

What exactly happened to your new motor? Did it break or burn up?

What I have found is its fairly hard to break a KA but so easy to melt one down. Proper fueling an tuning is what kept the twins car together up to a little over 400 whp. Twice I have only broken ring lands on a stock motor. I havent bent a rod, blown a HG, melted a piston, wrecked any bearings, etc. Only broken ring lands.

I believe that the KA has a bad rap due to band-aid engine management systems ie SAFC / injectors, FMU, etc and poorly engineered turbo kits that boost creep. A quality turbo kit and properly tuned stand alone is the only way to go.

[Andrew Bohan]

i had horrible blowby that i think is the result of out-of-round cylinders matched with brand new perfectly round rings. and the oil pan didn't seal right so i lost a lot of oil fairly early on. yeah, it got down to around 5psi. :bite: i'm an idiot. :Ownedd:

[kandyflip445]

What kinda assembly lube do you use?

[Vatche]

i love the technicity of your words :)

[Pacman]

Very nice. I hope I can do something like that in the future. Can someone explain filing down rings for me?

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Assembly lube is Federal Mogal.

I am not sure what i love the technicity of your words" means.

Checking ring end gap is important especially if your interested in making a lot of power (read heat). As the rings heat up, they expand. Enough heat and the ends of the rings will touch and then expand outward. This will start to put too much outward pressure on the cylinder walls, rob HP, chew up rings, chew up cylinders, break ring lands etc.

Knowing how hard your going to push the motor is important in figuring out how much end gap to run.

Once you have determined how much you want, you need to measure the ring gap by installing the ring in the cylinder square to the bore and slipping a feeler gauge between the ends. if its too small, you use a ring filer to open up the gap to your specs.

[Ghettokracker71]

Sweet. I love to see KA work, gotta keep us updated and make sure to dyno that puppy;)

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Worked on the motor for a bit on Monday and some today. I got a bit done.

http://www.phatka-t.com/pistoninstall.JPG
Here are the Arais pistons going into place. Perfect fit

http://www.phatka-t.com/ARPStuds.JPG
Here is a pic with the ARP head studs installed

http://www.phatka-t.com/Cometic.JPG
Cometic gasket in place

http://www.phatka-t.com/GuideUpgrade.JPG
Here are the new upgraded Nissan guides. Big difference in the bolts (circled in red right) that hold this tensioner on. No more sholder bolts. Upgraded tensioner (circled red left) from Nissan.

http://www.phatka-t.com/GuideDeleat.JPG
Here is the upgraded upper tensioner (circled red) from Nissan. Notice the lack of guides (circled blue) on the head. These are supposed to be deleated with the new tensioner from Nissan.

http://www.phatka-t.com/ViewExhaust.JPG

http://www.phatka-t.com/ViewIntake.JPG

Its coming along nicley IMO.

[turtl631]

sweet, if i were loaded I'd buy one from you Ivan :)

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Thats the beauty of the 240. You dont HAVE to be loaded to have some fun. This motor build is CHEAP compared to other cars. A forged rod / piston motor for a MKIV Supra is about 8 grand versus a KA at about 4 grand.

I know its probably more then some have paid for their cars, but when you want things done right.......

[Ghst 01]

Props on the build.. .. keeps us updated... i am looking to build up the KA inthe near future.

[Pacman]

Assembly lube is Federal Mogal.

I am not sure what i love the technicity of your words" means.

Checking ring end gap is important especially if your interested in making a lot of power (read heat). As the rings heat up, they expand. Enough heat and the ends of the rings will touch and then expand outward. This will start to put too much outward pressure on the cylinder walls, rob HP, chew up rings, chew up cylinders, break ring lands etc.

Knowing how hard your going to push the motor is important in figuring out how much end gap to run.

Once you have determined how much you want, you need to measure the ring gap by installing the ring in the cylinder square to the bore and slipping a feeler gauge between the ends. if its too small, you use a ring filer to open up the gap to your specs.

Hmm, interesting. Is there a standard gap between the rings that it should be, or is it just perference? Can you tell me more about the Cometic H/G and tensioners? It looks real sick, keep up the good work!

[ghostuss]

why you got those pistons and rods compare to the most popular Ross pistons and Hawk rods? Cheaper? Way to go with the build. I am gonna rebuild my engine when I ever blow this one. I am trying VERY hard right now but it ain't blowing :squint: .

[turtl631]

Thats the beauty of the 240. You dont HAVE to be loaded to have some fun. This motor build is CHEAP compared to other cars. A forged rod / piston motor for a MKIV Supra is about 8 grand versus a KA at about 4 grand.

I know its probably more then some have paid for their cars, but when you want things done right.......

Nissan owners are cheap though :) I agree with you though, if someone has about $15,000 to spend, they can get a pretty awesome 240 with built turbo setup and nice suspension...vs like a stock rx7, supra, etc in poor condition. Pretty good bang/buck. On a side note, what is the minimum work needed to put in forged pistons as a security measure for low 300s whp? As much as I would love a full built engine, I just cannot afford it or the engine management, etc necessary to take full advantage of it.