Thursday7
05-08-2018, 10:34 AM
Recently got my ka-t started. It's a basic T28/370cc/N62/Enthalpy tune setup.
At first I couldn't get it started as it was not getting fuel. I determined this by pulling the rail. Fuel pump is new and worked so I started fiddling around and found the EGI relay to not be working. They relay itself is good, the switch closes when 12v is applied to the coil and has continuity when activated. THIS TEST WAS DONE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR, NOT IN ITS SLOT. I also tried with multiple working relays I had.
Just to get the car started, I jumped the switched sides of the plug with the relay removed. This worked, as the switched side was getting 12v. Car runs ok, but this is just a workaround.
Here's where things get confusing: Both the coil and switch side of the relay are getting 12v, even when the ignition is off. Yet still the relay is not activating.
I'll elaborate with this picture.
https://www.rockauto.com/info/903/1R1090_2__ra_p.jpg
I am getting 12v at ports 1 and 3 at all times. This does not sound normal as the relay would always be activated. Is this right? should port 2 be going to ground? It does not when checking continuity with a multimeter. The relay does not click when installed. I thought it may be an ECU issue but I tested it with my stock ECU that the car has been reliably running on for years and it gives me the same result.
Can someone please help? There is a drift event that I've invested time and money into coming up in less than 2 weeks and I'd hate to miss it.
Thanks in advance.
At first I couldn't get it started as it was not getting fuel. I determined this by pulling the rail. Fuel pump is new and worked so I started fiddling around and found the EGI relay to not be working. They relay itself is good, the switch closes when 12v is applied to the coil and has continuity when activated. THIS TEST WAS DONE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR, NOT IN ITS SLOT. I also tried with multiple working relays I had.
Just to get the car started, I jumped the switched sides of the plug with the relay removed. This worked, as the switched side was getting 12v. Car runs ok, but this is just a workaround.
Here's where things get confusing: Both the coil and switch side of the relay are getting 12v, even when the ignition is off. Yet still the relay is not activating.
I'll elaborate with this picture.
https://www.rockauto.com/info/903/1R1090_2__ra_p.jpg
I am getting 12v at ports 1 and 3 at all times. This does not sound normal as the relay would always be activated. Is this right? should port 2 be going to ground? It does not when checking continuity with a multimeter. The relay does not click when installed. I thought it may be an ECU issue but I tested it with my stock ECU that the car has been reliably running on for years and it gives me the same result.
Can someone please help? There is a drift event that I've invested time and money into coming up in less than 2 weeks and I'd hate to miss it.
Thanks in advance.