andrewdrifts
06-19-2017, 03:17 PM
First let me start out by saying that I am not affiliated by OS Giken in anyway nor am I a vendor selling any of their products. I am just providing feedback regarding the new setup that I am running on the car and how it differs in regards to the old setup that I previously ran. To begin I am going to be talking about the OS Giken Twin Disc TR2CD Clutch which Is going in my S13 Hatch with an LS1 swap backed by a Borg warner T56 Transmission. So first Let me begin by showing you a side by side comparison of the 2 units I will be talking about
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/shares/0383K4
On the left is the OS Giken TR2CD Twin disk clutch setup, and on the right is the OEM LS flywheel with an aftermarket 6 Puck single disc clutch setup. The difference between these two is night and day. The TR2CD is far superior in every aspect. The build quality and machining is absolutely amazing. Also you can see that the clutch pack is smaller allowing more of the weight to be in the center of the clutch not on the outside of the clutch. This really helps during acceleration and deceleration performance.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246113212/in/dateposted-public/https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35412607405/in/dateposted-public/
One of the main benefits to the OS Giken Clutch setup is how much weight savings there are. On the left the stock setup weighed in at 53.2 LBS and on the right the TR2CD weighed in at 30.6 LBS and for those of you who don’t want to do the math in your heads. That is a difference of 22.6 LBS which is absolutely incredible. Not only are you removing weight you are removing weight from a vital area in the car thus reducing the rotational mass of the drivetrain. This really helps with acceleration and throttle response. Although please note that you may have to retune your ECU in order for your car to idle properly. In my case the engine would decelerate so fast that the computer would not be able to catch the idle and the car would stall. Once my tuner adjusted my idle I have no issues what so ever and the car runs great.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246112812/in/dateposted-public/
Here is a little Pic stitch of the assembly of the TR2CD being installed on the LS motor. It starts with the flywheel which bolts on using the existing bolts and bolts to factory specs. Next is the first disk goes in followed by the first friction plate and then the second disc and after that the second friction plate. Note the grooves can either be staggered or aligned when installed the friction plates. It is crucial to assemble the clutch components in the same order that they came out so be sure to pay close attention to how you take the clutch apart. Lastly the pressure plate gets bolted on by using a crisscross torqueing sequence to ensure you don’t warp the discs. The installation of this setup needs to be done with the metal alignment tool that OS Giken sells separately. This is genuinely a great tool and is a must have for this install. When mating up the transmission DO NOT rest the weight of the transmission on the clutch. If the input shaft does not slide in easily either add a thin layer of grease or realign the clutch using the alignment tool. DO NOT force the transmission onto the engine. Only when the transmission is completely mated to the engine can you begin installing the bolts for the transmission.
So when I got in contact with OS Giken they recommended me to use a new alternative slave cylinder utilizing their twin disc clutch setup. So they recommended we use the Quartermaster Tri light release bearing. As you all know one of the major issues that we suffer from on all the LS platforms is the clutch slave which somehow tends to suffer from catastrophic failure more times than not, and because it is located inside the transmission it is usually extremely difficult to get to. In our case and in the case of basically every LS swapped car, you actually have to pull the motor out completely in order to remove the transmission. So why not just put in a better product. Not only a better product but a product that can be serviced by you at home. Using the TRI Light Release bearing from Quarter Master along with their T56 adapter which bolted right on, allowing for a quick and easy install. There were no issues when it came to bleeding the clutch. It bled just like any normal clutch and we were able to retain the stock master which has a bore of about .75 in. Something I like about this setup is that it came with everything I needed including the an lines so there was nothing else I needed to get in order to complete the setup. The best part is that they sell all the seals and replacement parts so anytime you drop the transmission you can replace all the seals to maintain a properly functioning setup.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35373285966/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246113032/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246113492/in/dateposted-public/
Now comparing drivability, the old clutch setup was a bit lighter but not much it’s not a drastic difference from the TR2CD. Just remember that now you have multiple discs rather than just one. The point of engagement was slightly different for example the old clutch engaged towards the middle of the pedal stroke whereas the TR2CD engages more towards the end or the beginning of the stroke allowing you to make quicker shifts due to less time spent on actuating the clutch pedal. Where you notice the difference between the two is how they engage. The old clutch is able to be slipped a lot easier when you take off in first, allowing for a smother engagement but the TR2CD is more agressive. This is great for racing applications but it would definitely have to be something to get used to. When you compare the differences, it is night and day. If you want an amazing product that is proven this is the way to go. The main question is does it justify the cost? Yes!! 100% it can handle a wide range of power so if you are like me and planning on adding a supercharger mid-season you don’t have to worry about the clutch giving out. Now if you are a budget racer that makes 300 hp and doesn’t want to spend a lot of money probably your better off going to an auto parts store and getting an oem replacement clutch. But if you are serious about your driving and want a product that can handle multiple seasons of abuse and with zero issues this is definitely the way to go. All in all there isn’t any drastic difference in pedal feel it is still fairly light and once you get used to how to engage the clutch it is really easy to drive and there isn’t really any drawbacks that I could think of. I drove the car at the track all day and I had absolutely no fatigue driving the car with the clutch. It doesn’t weigh a million pounds and feel like a leg workout every time you push the clutch in, it in fact feels closer to a stock setup, extremely comfortable. I will say this though, clutch feel will change based on the size of the master cylinder you have in your setup, I am currently running a 3/4” master on my car and I am giving you my feedback based on my setup. It is also important to note that this clutch is not quiet. It has quite a bit of chatter when at idle, this is normal for this setup but you must understand that this is a competition setup. It is not meant to be quiet.
Thank you for Reading my review of the OS Giken TR2CD Clutch. Please give me your feedback regarding this article. I hope to have possibly given some insight about this product and if you have any questions please let me know. Thanks!!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/shares/0383K4
On the left is the OS Giken TR2CD Twin disk clutch setup, and on the right is the OEM LS flywheel with an aftermarket 6 Puck single disc clutch setup. The difference between these two is night and day. The TR2CD is far superior in every aspect. The build quality and machining is absolutely amazing. Also you can see that the clutch pack is smaller allowing more of the weight to be in the center of the clutch not on the outside of the clutch. This really helps during acceleration and deceleration performance.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246113212/in/dateposted-public/https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35412607405/in/dateposted-public/
One of the main benefits to the OS Giken Clutch setup is how much weight savings there are. On the left the stock setup weighed in at 53.2 LBS and on the right the TR2CD weighed in at 30.6 LBS and for those of you who don’t want to do the math in your heads. That is a difference of 22.6 LBS which is absolutely incredible. Not only are you removing weight you are removing weight from a vital area in the car thus reducing the rotational mass of the drivetrain. This really helps with acceleration and throttle response. Although please note that you may have to retune your ECU in order for your car to idle properly. In my case the engine would decelerate so fast that the computer would not be able to catch the idle and the car would stall. Once my tuner adjusted my idle I have no issues what so ever and the car runs great.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246112812/in/dateposted-public/
Here is a little Pic stitch of the assembly of the TR2CD being installed on the LS motor. It starts with the flywheel which bolts on using the existing bolts and bolts to factory specs. Next is the first disk goes in followed by the first friction plate and then the second disc and after that the second friction plate. Note the grooves can either be staggered or aligned when installed the friction plates. It is crucial to assemble the clutch components in the same order that they came out so be sure to pay close attention to how you take the clutch apart. Lastly the pressure plate gets bolted on by using a crisscross torqueing sequence to ensure you don’t warp the discs. The installation of this setup needs to be done with the metal alignment tool that OS Giken sells separately. This is genuinely a great tool and is a must have for this install. When mating up the transmission DO NOT rest the weight of the transmission on the clutch. If the input shaft does not slide in easily either add a thin layer of grease or realign the clutch using the alignment tool. DO NOT force the transmission onto the engine. Only when the transmission is completely mated to the engine can you begin installing the bolts for the transmission.
So when I got in contact with OS Giken they recommended me to use a new alternative slave cylinder utilizing their twin disc clutch setup. So they recommended we use the Quartermaster Tri light release bearing. As you all know one of the major issues that we suffer from on all the LS platforms is the clutch slave which somehow tends to suffer from catastrophic failure more times than not, and because it is located inside the transmission it is usually extremely difficult to get to. In our case and in the case of basically every LS swapped car, you actually have to pull the motor out completely in order to remove the transmission. So why not just put in a better product. Not only a better product but a product that can be serviced by you at home. Using the TRI Light Release bearing from Quarter Master along with their T56 adapter which bolted right on, allowing for a quick and easy install. There were no issues when it came to bleeding the clutch. It bled just like any normal clutch and we were able to retain the stock master which has a bore of about .75 in. Something I like about this setup is that it came with everything I needed including the an lines so there was nothing else I needed to get in order to complete the setup. The best part is that they sell all the seals and replacement parts so anytime you drop the transmission you can replace all the seals to maintain a properly functioning setup.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35373285966/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246113032/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/35246113492/in/dateposted-public/
Now comparing drivability, the old clutch setup was a bit lighter but not much it’s not a drastic difference from the TR2CD. Just remember that now you have multiple discs rather than just one. The point of engagement was slightly different for example the old clutch engaged towards the middle of the pedal stroke whereas the TR2CD engages more towards the end or the beginning of the stroke allowing you to make quicker shifts due to less time spent on actuating the clutch pedal. Where you notice the difference between the two is how they engage. The old clutch is able to be slipped a lot easier when you take off in first, allowing for a smother engagement but the TR2CD is more agressive. This is great for racing applications but it would definitely have to be something to get used to. When you compare the differences, it is night and day. If you want an amazing product that is proven this is the way to go. The main question is does it justify the cost? Yes!! 100% it can handle a wide range of power so if you are like me and planning on adding a supercharger mid-season you don’t have to worry about the clutch giving out. Now if you are a budget racer that makes 300 hp and doesn’t want to spend a lot of money probably your better off going to an auto parts store and getting an oem replacement clutch. But if you are serious about your driving and want a product that can handle multiple seasons of abuse and with zero issues this is definitely the way to go. All in all there isn’t any drastic difference in pedal feel it is still fairly light and once you get used to how to engage the clutch it is really easy to drive and there isn’t really any drawbacks that I could think of. I drove the car at the track all day and I had absolutely no fatigue driving the car with the clutch. It doesn’t weigh a million pounds and feel like a leg workout every time you push the clutch in, it in fact feels closer to a stock setup, extremely comfortable. I will say this though, clutch feel will change based on the size of the master cylinder you have in your setup, I am currently running a 3/4” master on my car and I am giving you my feedback based on my setup. It is also important to note that this clutch is not quiet. It has quite a bit of chatter when at idle, this is normal for this setup but you must understand that this is a competition setup. It is not meant to be quiet.
Thank you for Reading my review of the OS Giken TR2CD Clutch. Please give me your feedback regarding this article. I hope to have possibly given some insight about this product and if you have any questions please let me know. Thanks!!