Sr20det water boild on apexi 1.5mm after first start

[R3cK]

Hi
First start after my engine rebuild today and after 10mins of running i took of the coolant cap too bleed the water cooler. Of course the water started to boil :picardfp:
Continued with the bleeding and filled more water in but i wonder if my engine could take any damage from it?

Deleted the interior heater and put in an apexi 1.5mm gasket.

Stupit me or nothing to worry about?

Cheers

[RalliartRsX]

Errrrrr, why are you removing the cap AFTER the engine has warmed up?? You do know fluid has a higher boiling temp when under pressure right?? Meaning, the minute you removed the radiator cap (while under pressure), you also changed the fluid boiling point back to atmospheric so ofcourse it is going to boil over.

The protocol to bleeding coolant is to raise the front (if standard radiator and overflow) and warm the car up with the radiator cap OFF. Have a funnel in the fill portion of the radiator and "burp" the system as it warms up (squeeze the lower radiator hose occasionally) and add fluid as necessary. Also, be careful as hot fluid expands and can easily expand right out of the funnel (I use a fairly large funnel to mitigate this issue).

If it begins to rise too close to overflowing funnel, just turn the car off and/or turn radiator fans on for a moment. Continue until no bubbles are present after the system has been heat cycled several times over.

P.S on a brand new engine, there is no need to start with coolant already in the system if you are only running it for a few minutes. If I were in your shoes, start her up without coolant to make your final checks then begin to fill after it cooled down.

Goodluck

[tb13]

You started the car with no coolant and let it sit for 10min before adding coolant? Or you had coolant it in and let it run for 10min before you decided to bleed it?

Regardless, have you checked to see if there is coolant in the oil? Were there any issues other than just seeing the coolant boil? The radiator cap keeps the coolant under pressure, this keep the coolant from boiling even if it passes 212*f/100*c. If the car was running and you pulled the cap, releasing the pressure by removing the cap allowed the coolant to boil. You're lucky it didn't explode into your face...

As long as the car didn't run for very long, it should be okay. Really the only way to know is if you drive it around and discover any coolant in the cylinders/oil, if there is you probably warped your head letting the motor overheat.

[R3cK]

Yes had water in.. na it wasnt under exploding high pressure. And no white smoke from the exhaust. Yes have to drive the next days. I was so excited about the first start that i fucked the water bleeding

[R3cK]

Visco fan was on all the time btw

[anti tyler]

Visco fan was on all the time btw


Of course the fan is going to be on, the water temp was already at the point where it needed to be cooled.

You shouldn't open the cap. If you're going to proceed with the filling/bleeding of air from the coolant, you start with the engine cold and the cap OFF. Not the other way around.


If you're asking if you fucked up the bleeding process, well kind of yeah. You need to start for ex; in the AM, front end raised in the air so air in the system has an exit point.

Start the car, top off as air bleeds out. Now this doesn't mean running the car for an hour/topping off and tossing the cap back on/ shutting the hood and running the gears.

Prop the front end up, remove the radiator fill cap, top off, start car, run car, top off, run car, top off, run car, install cap and go.


If your fans are coming on while you're running without your cap on that means you're doing it for too long! the fans are kicking on to cool the incoming coolant. that shouldn't be happening within like 10-15 minutes. unless you live in a volcano.


You've already eliminated a lot of the air trapping areas by removing the heater core, there's no reason to try an extensive bleeding process at this point.

[R3cK]

visco is bolted on the water pump and always on no matter what temperature

[R3cK]

10bar compression on each cyl.
11 on the third.
hope this will get better after engine break in process.
didnt drive yet.
any tipps of doing a proper break in?
ive heard so many different things now that im totally lost.
my plan was to start slowly the first 25kms and then drive normal the next 25km
then change oil again.
then driving normal with max rpms of ~5000 and going full retarted after 500kms.

im good?

[tb13]

Good info here for break in tips: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=645358

[RalliartRsX]

Drive it like you stole it.

Straight to the dyno to pull a premium before race wars