View Full Version : Sr20det timing and cam installation
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 04:05 AM
Hey guys I'm putting my cams in on my red top Sr20det and I can't the exhaust sprocket to go 12 o clock on the black link. Do you think the timing chain jumped a link on the crank sprocket? If so can I remove the timing cover with out pulling the head considering I already torqued it in down. I really don't want to have to pull the head again and possibly have to buy a new head gasket but it's better than blowing motor. Just really want to get this started. Thanks any input would be sweet. I'm stressing hard over this considering how much money I have into it. :(
jedi03
05-05-2017, 07:39 AM
you can...just make sure to seal it really well against the head, getting the headgasket to not get damaged during reinstall is difficult, not impossible tho
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 08:09 AM
Thanks so much man! Any tips? Just so stressed out!
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 10:25 AM
Another thing, I have a cometic Mls head gasket. I'm happy I don't have to pull the head indefinitely but do I have to pull the upper and lower oil pan? I've read it needs to be pulled to retain a full seal. Not sure. If so I'll be up late tonight pulling the upper and lower oil pan and pulling the timing cover with the head still on after work. I mean up all night as in scraping all the old rtv off. It's exciting I know. But honestly any tips and comments would be awesome. Thanks. Sorry for the double post
I put an SR together about a year ago that had some timing issues, everything was lined up when I dropped the head on, but ended up being off some how later on when I was trying to get it started.
Its pretty easy to fix, really doesn't matter where the chain is on the crank sprocket as long as you get the motor to TDC. Move the motor to TDC and remove the chain tensioner. At this point you want to set the cams into their positions for setting timing and make sure you have 9 chain links between them. If you have 9 links, put the tensioner back in and rotate the motor over, if everything lines up at TDC, you're good to go, but if anything is off, simply remove tension and move the chain over a link at a time on both cam sprockets, keeping 9 links between them. Be very careful to not move it too much and rotate the motor over slowly so you do not risk damaging a valve or piston if the timing is off by too much.
Its a bit of a pain in the ass, but its pretty easy vs pulling the pan and front cover.
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 11:25 AM
I don't be mean to sound like an idiot but my cams are not in yet so I wouldn't really be able to rotate it right? I mean I set it to tdc with the harmonic balancer on the 2nd mark on the right if your facing it. I'm just stuck lining the cam gears I fear the chain may have jumped a link on the crank sprocket because the exhaust cam will not face 12 o'clock with the black link and I can't seem to get it there. So that's why I'm asking about the crank sprocket. I know you said it doesn't matter so that's good but how would I fix it with out the cams in?
If there are no cams in the motor, all of the valves are closed. Pull the spark plugs and you can rotate it to where ever you want. If you can't get it to line up on the cams its possible that it may have jumped a link.
My suggestion would be to go ahead and line up the links, even if it looks off a bit, install the tensioner and very slowly rotate the motor over until you get back to TDC on the crank and cams. If they all look lined up, you're good. If not, move them over a link at a time and repeat until everything lines up. The slack in the chain makes it misleading, that is why you need to rotate the motor over after moving the chain so you can accurately see the position of the links and judge if they are aligned properly. If you feel any resistance when rotating the motor over stop and rotate it back to TDC. Make sure you have the spark plugs out so you can rotate the motor over smoothly.
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 11:50 AM
Thank you man so much so it doesn't matter if it jumped a link on the crank sprocket for sure?
Thank you man so much so it doesn't matter if it jumped a link on the crank sprocket for sure?
Not one bit, if the crank is lined up properly and so are the cams, it doesn't matter where the chain is. Just makes it a bit harder to set timing when you can't simply line up the colored links.
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 12:23 PM
Thank you I really appreciate it man. I'll keep you updated on how it goes I'm so happy I don't have to pull anything that's a relief for sure.
Thank you I really appreciate it man. I'll keep you updated on how it goes I'm so happy I don't have to pull anything that's a relief for sure.
No problem, I was in your shoes when I build that motor. It was the first time I had messed with an SR and I was so frustrated thinking I was going to have to remove the front cover. Ended up talking to a local guy who knew SR's in and out and he told me what I just told you and I got it figured out no problem. Just take your time and you'll get it worked out.
Sr20probs
05-05-2017, 12:56 PM
This is my first sr build as well. looks like I'll be putting that shiny red valve cover on tonight!
bardabe
05-05-2017, 01:24 PM
Life Hack:
Once your engine is at TDC (2nd timing mark from the left on crank pulley) count 8 links from the tension guide (right one)to the exhaust sprocket timing mark. (should put the cam dowel at 12'o clock). then count 11 links (including the timing marks on sprockets) between the two cams.
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