Advice on a rb25det build

[NateMR2]

I recently traded an a4 for a s13 rb25det only to find a bunch of issues and possible a tired rb25.. id rather just build it once and not waste time t/s all the issues. at least I have a solid foundation right... this is a list of parts I plan to buy to make my goal id like 500whp daily.. not that ill be dailying it but I want that kind of reliability. PLEASE feel free to share ur experience with anything I'm putting down or if u have advice id really appreciate it because I'm new to the Nissan world.

parts list so far:
eagle H-beam rods $500.00 Wiseco AP pistons 86.25mm 8.39:1 $650
ALC main bearings $100
Tomei PonCam Type-B $550
ARP head/main bolts $320
AEM water/meth $450
oem head gasket with gasket kit $140
adjustable cam gears Ebay $70
Apex power fc $1000
HKS timing belt $200
Intake manifold with fuel rail (mine is ugly) $320
Injectors 850cc $350
Tuning $300
machine block $250

Please let me know if I left anything out gonna order all this pretty soon just want all my ducks in a row. list of things I already have (aem progressive fuel regulator, innovate wide band, aem oil pressure gauge, aem boost gauge, 2 walbro 255s, t3 top exhaust manifold w/38mm external wg. I have a cheap cx racing gt35 I might try first but if it doesn't work or when it blows ill do a BorgWarner trying to keep the cost down and still make a decent build. thanks!

Update! machine work done 5 angle valve job port and polish bore and hone .10 over and i decided on the cp pistons and manley h beams. Apr head studs and cometic mls gh welded all my holes in the bay and started grinding them.

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah305/nathanmcswain/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_03131_zpstgu4tfz0.jpg (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/nathanmcswain/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_03131_zpstgu4tfz0.jpg.html)

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah305/nathanmcswain/Mobile%20Uploads/20161128_181725_zpsabqm9ov5.jpg (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/nathanmcswain/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161128_181725_zpsabqm9ov5.jpg.html)

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah305/nathanmcswain/Mobile%20Uploads/20161130_174431_zpsqdzhr5dy.jpg (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/nathanmcswain/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161130_174431_zpsqdzhr5dy.jpg.html)

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah305/nathanmcswain/Mobile%20Uploads/20161130_174732_zpszf9equ0k.jpg (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/nathanmcswain/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161130_174732_zpszf9equ0k.jpg.html)

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah305/nathanmcswain/Mobile%20Uploads/20161120_203259_zpsjbyowsuf.jpg (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/nathanmcswain/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161120_203259_zpsjbyowsuf.jpg.html)

[KAT-PWR]

Tuning
Machine work
Assembly

[NateMR2]

have a friend that owns a tuning shop here in town so $300 for dyno tuning and another friend and I are gonna assemble it. I have never had machine work done avg cost?

[KAT-PWR]

Couple hundy
Also injectors

[NateMR2]

Oh ya! forgot that

[kashira kureijii]

I'd recommend against getting ebay chinese cam gears, nice way to drop a valve



http://i.imgur.com/xfqdxcQ.jpg

[NateMR2]

Ill be changing that lol

[dbeiler]

Rod bearings
Valve springs
PCV/catch can system
Oil galley restrictors
Extended crank collar
N1 oil pump or spool gears
Have the machine shop enlarge the oil return passages in the block
Radiator fan setup strong enough to handle additional heatload

[NateMR2]

Is that really necessary for just 500hp? Thought u could do 500 on almost stock just bad ring landings? Also i have a mishimoto radiator with 2 electric fans already

[anti tyler]

How many lbs are you trying to run to achieve 5xx. Have you researched HP numbers with those comp Pistons? sounds like you'll be running a high amount of boost to make those numbers. Maybe invest in some higher como pistons?

[Grenade180sx]

If your going to run 850s forget water meth injection and go for E85 if avail and run some 1200cc injectors if it will be come avail in your area

[Malik]

tyler why is your username yellow

[NateMR2]

Its not really avalible and what is is very expensive ill look in to higher comp pistons id like to run maybe 20-25 lbs my friends evo makes. 675whp on 29.5psi out of a 2.0 lol so 500 out of 20-25 should be achievable

[hanzbrady]

Cost to fully machine an RB ready for assembly is in the $700-900 range. Assuming you actually do everything right.

[hanzbrady]

Its not really avalible and what is is very expensive ill look in to higher comp pistons id like to run maybe 20-25 lbs my friends evo makes. 675whp on 29.5psi out of a 2.0 lol so 500 out of 20-25 should be achievable

Also you can't just throw more compression and boost at engine with shitty fuel and expect "reliability" I've seen so many customers melt forged pistons because they were hard headed and wanted to try to make a million horsepower on 93 pump gas. Pump gas is inconsistent garbage so if you have to run it, buy the corresponding parts, tune accordingly and save yourself another rebuild. As for water meth because I saw that was mentioned as well, save your money it's a band aid, if you want to make power buy fuel that let's you VP sells E85 by the drum and will deliver to your house.

[NateMR2]

I made 640hp on atp kit on the mr2 with pump gas and 50/50 meth on a 2.0.. I don't like e85 never had uses more fuel cost more the only advantage is cooler temps and more boost. race gas 100oct would be just as good I'm sure, and the same price seen people make 500 on the rb with pump gas stock internals just fuel upgrade, turbo and remap, and bolt ons. the only real reason I'm building it cause it wouldn't last long at 500 hp. and there is no way I'm melting a piston at 11.2-11.8 afr if u melt a piston u don't have a wideband or u don't care enough to pay attention to knock and water meth is awesome I just use it as icing on the cake... used for much more than just a few oct boost. steam engine affect, way lower intake temps.

[tuzzio]

-only to find a bunch of issues and possible a tired rb25..
-id rather just build it once and not waste time t/s all the issues. at least I have a solid foundation right
-I want that kind of reliability.

2JZ Stock bottom end. /thread.

[hanzbrady]

2JZ Stock bottom end. /thread.

This guy gets it.

[NateMR2]

ur saying that a rb is not capable of reliable numbers like the 2jz is? I don't want 800 1000 or even 1500 like a lot of 2jz make I want to keep it Nissan. if I were conserned with numbers only id do a 5.3 lm7 gap the rings t56 tranny and borg warner t6 turbo and make 1000hp easy being done all over the nation for cheap.

[hanzbrady]

ur saying that a rb is not capable of reliable numbers like the 2jz is? I don't want 800 1000 or even 1500 like a lot of 2jz make I want to keep it Nissan. if I were conserned with numbers only id do a 5.3 lm7 gap the rings t56 tranny and borg warner t6 turbo and make 1000hp easy being done all over the nation for cheap.

Well the RB sucks for reliability and parts availability, it's also more complicated than a JZ, the RB also has a pitiful stroke, this list could go on and on. The reality is that if you're stateside and not made of money RB loses to JZ

[NateMR2]

it would cost me the same price to buy a 1jz for $4000 would a rb26 crank be much better then cause I found on for 150 locally with a spare tranny for 150 I really don't want to start with a new motor the mounts were like 1500 alone

[NateMR2]

ZzzZzz I had someone that wanted to trade me for one with a sr20 as well should have done that I just like the way the inline 6 sounds and no replacement for displacement

[ADIDASilvias]

Nate - Pay no attention to hanzbrady, he's full of shit. He thinks he knows everything - cause, cause MAZWORX!!!!

The RB is a great platform, and unless you are pushing 750+whp you can make them reliable, and even then, if you build them right they can be beasts pushing big numbers. The biggest issues are the oiling problems, and cooling, both of which can be solved fairly easily. The ring lands on the RB25 S1/S2 like to crap out beyond 450hp, but you are planning on taking care of that.

1JZ/2JZ are about the same cost wise as an RB swap (trust me, I have looked into this in MAJOR detail). Parts availability for the RB in the states has increased 10 fold in the past 10 years, and it isn't difficult to find mostly everything these days.

Since you already have the RB25, it will be cheaper to build it like you said than start from scratch.

There's one of these guys in every Nissan forum - Just put a 1J/2J in it brah, never mind it's a Nissan, Toyota rulez!

Keep it Nissan!

FYI, the 1J/2J are both great engines, no hate on them, and I respect people's decision to swap them, but I think the point of this thread was 'help me build my RB25det' not 'help me decide to swap another engine into a vehicle I already have a great engine in' - right?

edit: Also, I'm not about to get into a pissing match regarding engine choice, I'm just reassuring the OP that the RB is worth his time and money.

[hanzbrady]

Nate - Pay no attention to hanzbrady, he's full of shit. He thinks he knows everything - cause, cause MAZWORX!!!!

The RB is a great platform, and unless you are pushing 750+whp you can make them reliable, and even then, if you build them right they can be beasts pushing big numbers. The biggest issues are the oiling problems, and cooling, both of which can be solved fairly easily. The ring lands on the RB25 S1/S2 like to crap out beyond 450hp, but you are planning on taking care of that.

1JZ/2JZ are about the same cost wise as an RB swap (trust me, I have looked into this in MAJOR detail). Parts availability for the RB in the states has increased 10 fold in the past 10 years, and it isn't difficult to find mostly everything these days.

Since you already have the RB25, it will be cheaper to build it like you said than start from scratch.

There's one of these guys in every Nissan forum - Just put a 1J/2J in it brah, never mind it's a Nissan, Toyota rulez!

Keep it Nissan!

FYI, the 1J/2J are both great engines, no hate on them, and I respect people's decision to swap them, but I think the point of this thread was 'help me build my RB25det' not 'help me decide to swap another engine into a vehicle I already have a great engine in' - right?

I'd just like to point out that I didn't say put a JZ in, I simply explained why the JZ was better to extend on to another users post.

[ADIDASilvias]

I'd just like to point out for the record:

RB25det - Bore 86mm Stroke: 71.7mm
1JZ-GTE - Bore 86mm Stroke: 71.5mm
2JZ-GTE - Bore 86mm Stroke: 86mm

So the stroke of the RB25 is no more pitiful than the 1JZ.

To the OP - I'd throw a good set of LS/LQ coil packs and wires in the list. If you feel the engine is a bit tired, the coils likely need replaced and the LS/LQ coils have amazing spark energy.

[hanzbrady]

I'd just like to point out for the record:

RB25det - Bore 86mm Stroke: 71.7mm
1JZ-GTE - Bore 86mm Stroke: 71.5mm
2JZ-GTE - Bore 86mm Stroke: 86mm

So the stroke of the RB25 is no more pitiful than the 1JZ.

To the OP - I'd throw a good set of LS/LQ coil packs and wires in the list. If you feel the engine is a bit tired, the coils likely need replaced and the LS/LQ coils have amazing spark energy.

Just because I feel you missed my comparison

2JZ Stock bottom end

I was comparing the RB25 to the 2JZ which as you did state above are a world of difference, maybe you also missed where I did answer some of the OP's original questions about pricing on the RB, I didn't come here on a JZ high horse so please stop putting me on one.

The synopsis of all my posts would be that the RB family in a real world application isn't the most reliable of engines, and that if the OP was looking for a deadly reliable set-up the JZ family is a far more viable platform due to not being flawed from the get go such as the oiling issues that the RB's have. If the OP chooses to stay RB I'd recommend all of the fancy RB oil mods he can find.

But hey what do I know I'm just another guy on the internet.

[NateMR2]

thanks finally someone that doesn't hate this motor I have always wanted one of these engines. I was also planning to do that I was gonna go to the junk yard and pull them out of a wrecked truck so I could cut the wiring harness as far back as I could to make the wiring easier. I read that the oil issues on the head was more so on the rb26 head and not as much on the 25 and to just vent the pan is that correct? it seems like a good motor swap was done a year ago with 30k miles on it compression seems low at 90 per cylinder. all even though. I am a mile high this is the reason for my build and I'm getting a hard sputter at around 12.5 psi might be fuel cut. wide band is spikes during this sputter.

[ADIDASilvias]

Here is the best explanation regarding the oiling issue:

https://mrbizzle.wordpress.com/2010/02/24/84/

Do some internet searching to determine the best route for your situation, not everything on that page is required, just recommended to address the entire situation.

Some more info here as well as in the link to the Skylines Forum:

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/55603-rb-oiling-issues-why-do-rbs-blow-up-answers-here.html

^#1,2, and 3 in the list there is what I'd recommend unless you are circuit racing or drifting.

Unless you are having machine work done on the head, in which case you might as well have #4 and #5 done in the process.

[Corbic]

Tag this nonsense for later...

[NateMR2]

Tag this nonsense for later...

why is it nonsense? why does this seem impossible... it seems no matter what build I ever do when I built the 3sget in the mr2 everyone said to swap it why? turned out amazing... then I mod a 06 audi 2.0tfsi everyone says swap it that motor is weak. well it took 27 psi for 30K miles till I traded it... if I posted a thread about sr20 swap everyone would probably tell me to get a rb25 and when I get a rb they will say 2jz if I have a 2jz then it will be a LS swap...:confused:

[hanzbrady]

why is it nonsense? why does this seem impossible... it seems no matter what build I ever do when I built the 3sget in the mr2 everyone said to swap it why? turned out amazing... then I mod a 06 audi 2.0tfsi everyone says swap it that motor is weak. well it took 27 psi for 30K miles till I traded it... if I posted a thread about sr20 swap everyone would probably tell me to get a rb25 and when I get a rb they will say 2jz if I have a 2jz then it will be a LS swap...:confused:

To be fair I called trading the Audi for the RB silly

[Corbic]

eagle H-beam rods $500.00 Wiseco AP pistons 86.25mm 8.39:1 $650
ALC main bearings $100
Tomei PonCam Type-B $550
ARP head/main bolts $320
AEM water/meth $450
oem head gasket with gasket kit $140
adjustable cam gears Ebay $70
Apex power fc $1000
HKS timing belt $200
Intake manifold with fuel rail (mine is ugly) $320
Injectors 850cc $350
Tuning $300
machine block $250


HAVE:
AEM FPR
AFR
OP, Boost Gauge
255gph pump
T3 Manifold with 38mm WG
eBay Turbo


I'm back.

So you have an old tired RB and want to dump a crap ton of money into it to make 500whp.

My friend made 400whp on his before he parted it out.

RB25det
Manifold (high quality, he paid $1,200 I forget the brand)
Borg Warner
ISIS Intake Manifold
Tial Wastegate
Tial BOV
1000cc ID
3.5" Exhaust
FMIC (high quality, cast ends, I forget the brand)
Z32 ECU
Fuel Pump
AEM FPR
AEM AFR
AEM Boost Gauge
Comp Clutch

He ultimately parted it out to move forwarded with a 2JZ swap.

As already mentioned, the RB25 has inherent oiling flaws. You are looking at doing a external oil pump to get around that, which is big bucks. The list goes on.

As for your list. You have Eagles on the list, which suck. Manley rods are a lot better. You are not going to want to run an OEM headgasket. Topfeed injectors are $600, not $350 (sounds like shitty re-drills). You don't need adjustable cam gears for poncams and as stated, don't run eBay cam gears.

As mentioned, machine work is going to be $900. You don't need ARP Main studs.

Either way, my suggestion? I'm lazy, I'd just buy an engine for $900, scrap the trans, sell off the extra parts and boost to 350whp and call it a day. You could sell the current engine for $300 or keep it as a spare.

[RB25GUY]

Listen the oil issue is with the care taker of the motor crank collar that crankshaft, 3qt accusump, a oil cooler and relocation kit, gtr oil pan easy to convert to rwd tomei baffle kit or greddy kit (GTR pan only baffle kits) head drain kit (not reallyneeded but it is piece of mind) basically left for you

I daily drove a 450whp 25 that had a greddy HG and greddy belt as far as work motor was internally stock drove it for 2 Years almost everyday, I ended up blowing that motor, and we took it apart and oil starvation was not the issue, tired piston let go and dropped the wrist pin and made a nice hole... Since you don't have stock internals you will be fine... if you don't have a built solid lifter built head don't rev past 7200... the stock lifter float above 7500.... RBs are stout if you know how to time them correctly, wire them correctly, and maintaince correctly.. .

[Corbic]

Listen the oil issue is with the care taker of the motor crank collar that crankshaft, 3qt accusump, a oil cooler and relocation kit, gtr oil pan easy to convert to rwd tomei baffle kit or greddy kit (GTR pan only baffle kits) head drain kit (not reallyneeded but it is piece of mind) basically left for you

I daily drove a 450whp 25 that had a greddy HG and greddy belt as far as work motor was internally stock drove it for 2 Years almost everyday, I ended up blowing that motor, and we took it apart and oil starvation was not the issue, tired piston let go and dropped the wrist pin and made a nice hole... Since you don't have stock internals you will be fine... if you don't have a built solid lifter built head don't rev past 7200... the stock lifter float above 7500.... RBs are stout if you know how to time them correctly, wire them correctly, and maintaince correctly.. .

Was this translated by babble fish??

[RB25GUY]

Was this translated by babble fish??

No, I was actually multi-tasking when i wrote that. I tend to forget you and a selected handful here are English/Journalism majors....

https://imgflip.com/s/meme/Face-You-Make-Robert-Downey-Jr.jpg

Basically, Gave him the most irrelevant "suggestion" ever. Cool, your bro parted out and went 2jz. What does that have to do with his question? Did you just wanna type out a parts list to be cool? Even better have you ever owned a RB before? Dont need ARP main studs, really?? please lets hear your answer. Other than the manley rod comment, ebay cam gears, and your somewhat accurate top feed injector comment, Everything else was pointless. By the way,You Are not buying a decent set of top feed injs ID, SARD, etc with 600 bucks.

[Corbic]

No, I was actually multi-tasking when i wrote that. I tend to forget you and a selected handful here are English/Journalism majors.....

Yes, only journalism majors want to be able to understand what the fuck you are saying. Get the fuck out of here with that bullshit. You posted up a completely unreadable rant.


Basically, Gave him the most irrelevant "suggestion" ever. Cool, your bro parted out and went 2jz. What does that have to do with his question? Did you just wanna type out a parts list to be cool? Even better have you ever owned a RB before? Dont need ARP main studs, really?? please lets hear your answer. Other than the manley rod comment, ebay cam gears, and your somewhat accurate top feed injector comment, Everything else was pointless. By the way,You Are not buying a decent set of top feed injs ID, SARD, etc with 600 bucks.


And again, you say my post was worthless but then highlight how I was correct and gave good advice. Change your tampon please.

The parts list was to show how easy it was to make 400whp, reliably, all day without dropping $5k to build the engine.

Does the OP even know why he wants "500whp", or was that the first number he thought of that sounded cool and really fast?

You want reliable and cheap, keep it simply. Just buy a new long block and move one with life.

He never even explains what "tired" means, is it low on compression? Is it knocking? Burning oil or coolant? Or does it just have a shitty tune?

The point of mentioning my friends build was he was in the same position the OP is in. Had a stronger running 400whp RB, wanted more and after doing all the research realized the RB sucks ass and moved over to the 2JZ. Better design, more displacement, more support. (He's also shooting for 1200whp)

As for have I owned one? Fuck no. I made the mistake of owning a SR and rectified that by switching to a factory built 4.6L DOHC V8 with a 2.2L twin-screw super charger running 20psi.

Couldn't be happier.


Rather then going "I want XXX whp", people should be saying "I can realistically spend $XXXX, what does that buy".

Based on what the OP already seems to have, he could easily get 350-400whp for $2k. If he pops his motor, swap it out for a grand.

Sure beats wasting $5-6k for a built motor making 500whp, popping that and having to spend another $2-3k.

[RB25GUY]

Yes, only journalism majors want to be able to understand what the fuck you are saying. Get the fuck out of here with that bullshit. You posted up a completely unreadable rant.

Oh man i didnt use a few periods marks and didnt double space shoot me, I'm not writing a God damn paper Professor, Still didn't give us a reason why not to use ARP main studs,

You stated what everyone else stated before. At least i said things people forgot to mention (minus the crank collar). Awesome you know how to read and copy and put things into your own words.

Here, for you, since you are a good lil bub.

http://www.smileyme.com/stickers/dr-seuss/stickers-dr-seuss-good-job-sticker.gif

[jared420sx]

To the guy who started this rb25 checklist thread. Buy a bmw.

[hanzbrady]

To the guy who started this rb25 checklist thread. Buy a bmw.

I do own one of those, and I'd highly recommend staying away from them. Mine burns 1 quart of oil per thousand miles and needs a $800 clutch job. A bit outrageous for a car from 2001 with 165k

[jared420sx]

I do own one of those, and I'd highly recommend staying away from them. Mine burns 1 quart of oil per thousand miles and needs a $800 clutch job. A bit outrageous for a car from 2001 with 165k


Shhhhhhhhh

[Corbic]

I do own one of those, and I'd highly recommend staying away from them. Mine burns 1 quart of oil per thousand miles and needs a $800 clutch job. A bit outrageous for a car from 2001 with 165k



How is a $800 clutch job outrageous?

I show an OEM Sachs clutch kit is only $215 on Rockauto.com

So, $600 in labor? $100 an hour, 6 hour job? Seems reasonable. Do it yourself....

Did you look into why it's burning oil? Is the valve cover gasket leaking? At 165k miles any brand of car is going to need a crap ton of maintenance.

[Corbic]

Oh man i didnt use a few periods marks and didnt double space shoot me, I'm not writing a God damn paper Professor, Still didn't give us a reason why not to use ARP main studs,

You stated what everyone else stated before. At least i said things people forgot to mention (minus the crank collar). Awesome you know how to read and copy and put things into your own words.

Here, for you, since you are a good lil bub.



Can someone condensed and translate please?

Cliffs?

[hanzbrady]

How is a $800 clutch job outrageous?

I show an OEM Sachs clutch kit is only $215 on Rockauto.com

So, $600 in labor? $100 an hour, 6 hour job? Seems reasonable. Do it yourself....

Did you look into why it's burning oil? Is the valve cover gasket leaking? At 165k miles any brand of car is going to need a crap ton of maintenance.


Well my flywheel exploded (yay dual-mass) so it needs a full single-mass conversion and between work, a "racecar", and the rest of life I cant be bothered to strip my own E-torx bolts on my BMW, I'd much rather give it to someone else to piss them off.

And yea, I've replaced every gasket I can, it's BMW's piss poor oil control ring design and its even worse PCV system.

My 330 will continue to sit until I get bored and decide to do something cool and non BMW powered with it. It's going to be replaced by a Fiesta ST or an Ecoboost stang (cool turbo sounds and a warranty are beginning to appeal to me in my quarter-life crisis).

[ADIDASilvias]

As already mentioned, the RB25 has inherent oiling flaws. You are looking at doing a external oil pump to get around that, which is big bucks. The list goes on.

An external oil pump is not needed. Block off one of the galley inlets, restrict the other, insert pressure equalizer drain into back of the head and route the line to the sump. Not a huge issue, and isn't 'required' either. Most RBs don't even see the oil stagnation issue unless they track the car in some manner. It's more an insurance thing than a requirement.

The crank snout issue is not a huge ordeal either. Get it done and forget about it.



You are not going to want to run an OEM headgasket.



The stock head gasket is not a weak link. If he is having the head decked then a metal HG makes sense. Otherwise, the stock gasket is MUCH more forgiving of slightly uneven surfaces. With ARP head studs and stock HG he might be at risk of blowing a head gasket somewhere north of 750hp, but not at all likely at 500.

I'm trying to keep it civil here. A lot of what is thrown around regarding the shortcomings of the RB series is overblown and/or easily compensated for with a few mods.

[RB25GUY]

Can someone condensed and translate please?

Cliffs?

:tardrim:


Cool story bro, how can "someone condensed", if its past tense meaning it already happened......

Cliffs bro, Cliffs.....

[RB25GUY]

The stock head gasket is not a weak link. If he is having the head decked then a metal HG makes sense. Otherwise, the stock gasket is MUCH more forgiving of slightly uneven surfaces. With ARP head studs and stock HG he might be at risk of blowing a head gasket somewhere north of 750hp, but not at all likely at 500.

I'm trying to keep it civil here. A lot of what is thrown around regarding the shortcomings of the RB series is overblown and/or easily compensated for with a few mods.

dude he doesnt even know what hes talking about, dont waste your time with whatever he says.

[pacotaco345]

Nate - Pay no attention to hanzbrady, he's full of shit. He thinks he knows everything - cause, cause MAZWORX!!!!

LOL
wordsandthings

[Corbic]

My 330 will continue to sit until I get bored and decide to do something cool and non BMW powered with it. It's going to be replaced by a Fiesta ST or an Ecoboost stang (cool turbo sounds and a warranty are beginning to appeal to me in my quarter-life crisis).


Poor Mans LS swap!!

Aka Ford 302/5.0!!

Grab an explorer pull out for $300, a T5 for $150, $1,500 in go fast parts, $500 into the swap.... boom, $2,500 and you have a 300whp, 300 ft/tq, V8 rumble in a good handling BMW.

Truly a Poor mans E90 M3!

Fits good too!

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-talk/250194d1374953107-2000-bmw-coupe-5-0-engine-tranny-swap-060113132703.jpg

[Corbic]

:tardrim:





Cool story bro, how can "someone condensed", if its past tense meaning it already happened......



Cliffs bro, Cliffs.....



Grammar Nazi Lulwtf dis ain't skool bro!!! Ha ha jernalizt!

[jared420sx]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/378da10cc66da208c53b18550641a5bb.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[smoked240]

TUNE. TUNE. TUNE. TUNE.
Your engine is only going to run as good as its been tuned. Spend your most money on tuning and it will save your ass in the end. I trailer my car 4 hours one way and pay out the ass for a dyno tune but my bro Shane is a genius, plus he's aem and e85 certified, so I toss him an extra Bennie to get an even better tune. I'm also right there watching, helping.

Good info and useless nuts like every rb25 thread hah.
I've owned and repaired my rb25 for the past 7 years. Not just nutted online to it so, from first hand I can say owning an RB has been interesting. I'll be pushing 500hp with rb26 internals and a stock headgasket. Tuned on e85 and 91.

[Corbic]

An external oil pump is not needed. Block off one of the galley inlets, restrict the other, insert pressure equalizer drain into back of the head and route the line to the sump. Not a huge issue, and isn't 'required' either. Most RBs don't even see the oil stagnation issue unless they track the car in some manner. It's more an insurance thing than a requirement.



The crank snout issue is not a huge ordeal either. Get it done and forget about it.

Don't worry, I'll still pass. It's an inferior design and your still dumping money into machine time that wouldn't be needed on a 2JZ.







The stock head gasket is not a weak link. If he is having the head decked then a metal HG makes sense. Otherwise, the stock gasket is MUCH more forgiving of slightly uneven surfaces. With ARP head studs and stock HG he might be at risk of blowing a head gasket somewhere north of 750hp, but not at all likely at 500.


But if you are sending a block out for machine work, having the crank collar machined, throwing in rods, pistons and studs.... why would you not spend the extra $50 on an upgraded head-gasket?

[jared420sx]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/42396d28ff826f34d3f534060179ec92.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[smoked240]

Don't worry, I'll still pass. It's an inferior design and your still dumping money into machine time that wouldn't be needed on a 2JZ.










But if you are sending a block out for machine work, having the crank collar machined, throwing in rods, pistons and studs.... why would you not spend the extra $50 on an upgraded head-gasket?

Well of course it's going to be inferior..the jz was highly developed with racing in mind so they all have been set up from factory to handle more power stock. I'm sure if Nissan spent the R&D like Toyota did, the RB would be on par if not better.

HG is a lil more than $50 but I understand your point. If mine was track only or highly used on the track I would have went MHG but since it's my dd and capping it at 500hp I trust the stock HG.

[Corbic]

Well of course it's going to be inferior..the jz was highly developed with racing in mind so they all have been set up from factory to handle more power stock. I'm sure if Nissan spent the R&D like Toyota did, the RB would be on par if not better.



HG is a lil more than $50 but I understand your point. If mine was track only or highly used on the track I would have went MHG but since it's my dd and capping it at 500hp I trust the stock HG.



OP listed an OEM HG for $140.

A Cometic is $175, Tomei $162, and Apexi $370. The difference is where I was getting $50.

I'd throw the Tomei in and call it a day.

[smoked240]

OP listed an OEM HG for $140.

A Cometic is $175, Tomei $162, and Apexi $370. The difference is where I was getting $50.

I'd throw the Tomei in and call it a day.

I guess I got a deal on my HG didn't even pay half that. Tomei is the one I'll be going with when I add forged internals one day.

[STR8 H8N]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/378da10cc66da208c53b18550641a5bb.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

[RB25GUY]

Poor Mans LS swap!!

Aka Ford 302/5.0!!

Grab an explorer pull out for $300, a T5 for $150, $1,500 in go fast parts, $500 into the swap.... boom, $2,500 and you have a 300whp, 300 ft/tq, V8



God you're dumber than i thought

1996 Explorer
210 HP
280 Torque

1990 mustang
225 HP
300 Torgue


what the fuck you talking about 300hp?? maybe with some valve springs and a hot cam. yea they share the 93-95 cobra heads and intake mani but you arent just taking a explorer 302 dropping it in and making 300whp even with 1500 you will need more...:picardfp::picardfp:

damn arent you a mustang guy and you cant even give good advice on those either :picardfp::picardfp:

[RB25GUY]

"To get 300whp out of an actual 302, you need a good set of heads (AFR165s/185s, Trick flow Twisted Wedge, Holly Systemax), a good intake (take your pick), the right cam, and an aftermarket exhaust system. Or you could go the forced induction route with a supercharger, nitrous, or turbo. Don't go for a crate motor, you can build it for less, and you probably won't make 300rwhp with 'em.

I've got a custom built 302 with the starter and all the bolt-ons for 2,500"

this guy bought one for 2500 just the motor made 320whp im sure it cost the person who built it spent more than 2500.

[RB25GUY]

"wow 300-350 no p/a

i had cobra intake
24lb injectors
tfs 1 cam
gt40p heads

with a c4

and only dyno'd

212 to the wheels"

[Corbic]

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:



Are you an Idiot?

Yes! - Swap RB20DET
NO! - Proceed!

Do you want to go fast?

No! - Swap RB25DET or SR20DET!
Yes! - Proceed!

Do you fantasize about having a budget?

Yes! - LSX Swap!
No! - 2JZ Swap!

[STR8 H8N]

Are you an Idiot?

Yes! - Swap RB20DET
NO! - Proceed!

Do you want to go fast?

No! - Swap RB25DET or SR20DET!
Yes! - Proceed!

Do you fantasize about having a budget?

Yes! - LSX Swap!
No! - 2JZ Swap!

http://67.media.tumblr.com/18ecbd0a3a3a581e8d97a08fb1658433/tumblr_n3qqwi7oxB1qasthro7_500.gif

[ADIDASilvias]

Ignoring all the fucktards that generally tend to shit up threads with useless information and getting back to the original topic.

I came across an interesting read regarding the oiling issue:

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/rb26-engine-assembly-how-to-build.html

It's an RB26, but the concept is exactly the same for the RB25. Scroll down almost to the bottom of the page.



It's info I've been sitting on for about a decade and a half. Well, the cat's out of the bag. I know I've said I never did an extra "oil return" on an RB26, and that's true. But I never said (I don't think) I never added anything for crankcase ventilation to aid oil return through the stock pasages. Semantics...

Why do I discourage people from doing this mod? BECAUSE YOU DON'T NEED IT! And, if it's done wrong, you'll end up with more problems than you've solved. Originally, this engine turned around 11,000 rpm, boosted way over 30 pounds, and made hp north of the millennium mark. The new configuration doesn't need it, but because the mod is already done to the pan, the parts are there, etc, it's going on this engine.

The following three pictures are of the additional crankcase vent. I first started doing this mod on the 26 in the mid 90’s. It’s a common mod for high rpm engines, so it was a no-brainer for the RB26. Soon thereafter, the Internet got a hold of it and speculation as to its function ran rampant. “Additional oil drain-back” became the consensus, and consensus became fact. Now it’s well known as the additional oil drain back mod… Then it became a fact that all the oil in the engine will pool in the head and the engine will blow if you don’t have it done…

Really? Let’s examine some facts. The RB26 has been lapping the Nurburgring starting years before the R32 came out in 1989. Lap after lap at full-boogie. Since then, the R33 and R34 have been lapping the same track. The N1 GT-R that races in the N1 class doesn’t have this mod done. Super Taikyu RB26’s don’t have this mod done. I can assure you that the RB26 does not have an oil drain back problem that warrants modification to implement an additional one.

On Youtube you can find some videos of the Porsche Turbo engines in a cradle that simulate a run of the Nurburgring to test the oil system. Nissan has the same thing.



I'd trust this guy more than any of the keyboard mechanics currently proving they are idiots.

Edit: FYI, the new configuration he is talking about that doesn't need the mod is a 600hp touge set-up.

[ADIDASilvias]

Don't worry, I'll still pass. It's an inferior design and your still dumping money into machine time that wouldn't be needed on a 2JZ.


But if you are sending a block out for machine work, having the crank collar machined, throwing in rods, pistons and studs.... why would you not spend the extra $50 on an upgraded head-gasket?

Like I said - if he is having the head decked then go for it, otherwise the stock HG seals much better when things aren't perfectly flat, and is not a weakness at 500hp.

Also, with the 2JZ, the only way you are even coming close to the cost of the RB swap is a 2JZ from a non Supra chassis, and throwing an R154 tranny behind it. The R154 is not a bad transmission, but it is definitely the weak link in the pairing. 6-speed Getrag, get outta here, you got another 6 grand for the transmission?

And it's fine that you'll pass. Those of us who would like to keep a Nissan a Nissan can deal with that. I won't lose any sleep over it.

P.S. jared420sx needs to go smoke a fatty and forget this whole internet thing exists.