3 year sr20 build so very close, dying when letting off throttle

[justinbyrant]

as the title states, im 3 years in on a build, sat for a long time but im finally finishing it and running into a small problem, runs fine, idles ok, but it bounces around at idle, I found a vacuum leak and fixed it and it now actually idles without dying all the time but it still wont hold a steady idle and the biggest problem is when I come off throttle it runs pig rich, just black smoke everywhere and wants to die really really badly, if I keep on throttle and keep it running after it runs rich eventually it clears up but does the same thing any time I let off from heavy throttle

I have a good maf
good tps
no leaks
no boost leaks
engine is fresh
and everything I can find is good

any ideas?

[5280VertDET]

Whats your fuel pressure like and it's regulator setup?

[cotbu]

Post a video of your problem, pull codes. If your idle is high or fluctuating, and dumping fuel, I wouldn't consider that as "runs fine". Bov reacting slow, or not recirculated. Leaking injectors, bad mafs or wiring, o2 sensor, timing etc.
Black smoke is unburned fuel. So it's dumping or over fueling on decel. You want someone to tell you why on an engine you've been building for 3 years and 362 days. That's longer than most celebrities relationship.

[KAT-PWR]

Recirculate bov

[OnTheChip]

Check the TPS voltage at ECU pin 20 with key on, engine not running. Should be 0.40-0.45V.

[justinbyrant]

regulator setup 37 psi at idle, unfortunately I cannot pull codes as my screw on my ecu is stripped completely out somehow idle is currently set at 1,000 when cold and does fluctuate however I have yet to be able to set base timing and set the idle as I first off don't have a timing light that I can plug into my coil packs, my adapter is broken :( and second I cant keep the idle from fluctuating even with the tps unplugged so timing would bounce when trying to set it anyways

im currently waiting on my adapter for my hks bov to be able to recirculate it so as of now I have the line capped and the bov just isn't hooked up, will cause compressor surge but shouldn't cause any runablity issues, maf is good I have tested 3 of them now, could be maf wiring, im getting .8v key on engine off and max 3v when running and reving the engine however its my understanding that should be the most it sees with no engine load and that the full 5v range only comes into play when there is load, the only thing I haven't tested is the 02 sensor however being a narrow band would it really cause that much of an issue?

[ultimateirving]

Find a plug and wire in the consult port. It's very easy and will allow you to put the car into timing mode. The most difficult part is hooking it up to a computer and using the software.

[justinbyrant]

I still have my consult port I actually was planning to wire it in guess I will just have to do it sooner rather than later

[justinbyrant]

o2 sensor reads 8.8-9v in and out

[justinbyrant]

My alt has been charging at 15v and I just found only one wire into my alternator plug, the sense wire is not there, a friend of mine had some similar problems with his sr when his voltage regulator went bad, it was basically overcharging all the sensors and causing them to read high, im going to add a wire to that plug and hope to god it fixes this nightmare