SR noisy valves or injectors?

[SREVAN]

Hey guys just picked up a 240 with a red top SR and it runs great. My only issue is I can't tell if it has a valve tick or if it's just noisy injectors.
There 740cc desh works injectors.

Edit: also the wide band gadge is either acting up or my ratios are awful.
Sitting in neutral sometimes it will be pegged at 20 or 12 to 14 ish. Sometimes under load it drops down to around 10 and sometimes it stays at 20 but pulls hard and good. Every time.

Edit #2
Here is a video

https://youtu.be/Rx07ewtbYmc

[KAT-PWR]

Injectors don't usually make loud enough noise to hear over the car running

[lunchmeat]

Could try the screwdriver stethoscope test.

[Whtsr240]

Injectors on an SR are a little loud but you had to focus on it to hear it. I would use what lunch meat said.

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[SREVAN]

Gotcha. I'll see what I can hear. I'm hoping if it is in the valve train it's just a lifter or 2 that's needs to be bled.

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[Tyler_240]

I would pull the valve cover and inspect each valve shim and guide between the rocker arm and the lifter. Lifters will chatter if not bled correctly, and a thrown valve shim will too.

[Whtsr240]

Does it sound like metal clanking or like a tick tick coming from the injector side? Also moving the throttle doe is get louder?

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[SREVAN]

Does it sound like metal clanking or like a tick tick coming from the injector side? Also moving the throttle doe is get louder?

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It sounds like it could be either really. It's slightly louder and gets faster when reving
Goes can't hear it after I get going down the road. Only when reving in neutral and for a second when taking off from a stop. Sometimes it is very quite and can almost not hear it at all.

Also who knows a good reputable shop in the Atlanta area I could take it to if I need to?

[Future240]

A video might help....

[SREVAN]

A video might help....
Here is a video

https://youtu.be/Rx07ewtbYmc

[Whtsr240]

Here is a video

https://youtu.be/Rx07ewtbYmc

The slight ticking you hear before you rev it is the injectors. SR motors are known for having louder than normal injectors. How ever when you rev it and you get that rattle that becomes louder it could be one of a couple things. 1) have a leak for a gasket somewhere (unlikely) 2) you have a lifter that has some air in it (possible) it sounds louder towards the rear of the car am I right? IF I am I would check with a screwdriver head to my ear to see if the sound is coming from your head ( lifter) or from your injector ( bad injector)

[SREVAN]

The slight ticking you hear before you rev it is the injectors. SR motors are known for having louder than normal injectors. How ever when you rev it and you get that rattle that becomes louder it could be one of a couple things. 1) have a leak for a gasket somewhere (unlikely) 2) you have a lifter that has some air in it (possible) it sounds louder towards the rear of the car am I right? IF I am I would check with a screwdriver head to my ear to see if the sound is coming from your head ( lifter) or from your injector ( bad injector)
Ok thanks for the info. I'll pull the cover on sunday and see what it looks like.

Also it seems like it might be running a little hot. Is it common for these gauges to up and down "normally" but stay at the normal operating temp while running a little hot?

When it's warmed up it doesn't look like the coolant is moving very quickly with the radiator cap off.

Also the heat is not as hot when in neutral. Gets hotter with some RPM's.

Maybe t Stat? Will replace that on Sunday too

[Whtsr240]

Ok thanks for the info. I'll pull the cover on sunday and see what it looks like.

Also it seems like it might be running a little hot. Is it common for these gauges to up and down "normally" but stay at the normal operating temp while running a little hot?

When it's warmed up it doesn't look like the coolant is moving very quickly with the radiator cap off.

Also the heat is not as hot when in neutral. Gets hotter with some RPM's.

Maybe t Stat? Will replace that on Sunday too


it Could. Depends on what thermostat your running and what type of RAD. and are you using dual electric fans? I have a Koyo rad with 2 electric fans and my temp gauge (aftermarket) never reads above 190 but in the summer in cali whe nit get to like 115 its not uncommon for muine to read like 210ish

[lunchmeat]

Sounds too "metallic" to be injectors to me. More clack than tick...if that makes sense.

[Whtsr240]

Sounds too "metallic" to be injectors to me. More clack than tick...if that makes sense.

True lunch. That's why I said its unlikely

[Tyler_240]

I would pull the valve cover and inspect each valve shim and guide between the rocker arm and the lifter. Lifters will chatter if not bled correctly, and a thrown valve shim will too.

Just Sayin'

You don't want to learn the hard way, trust me, I know how that is...previous owner installed rocker arm stoppers...so instead of just throwing the rocker, the shim flew and the rocker rode like that...convert to dual guides and ditched the RAS...no problems since...repeated abuse too

http://websitecre8.com/images/valve.jpg

[SREVAN]

Ok I'm going to take a look. I'll take some close up picks all around under the valve cover so you guys can see.

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[Tyler_240]

Ok I'm going to take a look. I'll take some close up picks all around under the valve cover so you guys can see.

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It may just be a noisy lifter, you can run the motor without the valve cover at idle and see if you can't figure out which one. You only have to remove the particular lifter(s) and the one cam and sprocket.

It is complex, and time consuming, but not particularly difficult and doesn't require many tools. You can get an in-lbs torque wrench on amazon for the cams and zip ties?

I wouldn't drive that car until you figure it out to be safe. Luckily for me, I was able to park mine within 100miles of hearing it on mine.

[SREVAN]

It may just be a noisy lifter, you can run the motor without the valve cover at idle and see if you can't figure out which one. You only have to remove the particular lifter(s) and the one cam and sprocket.

It is complex, and time consuming, but not particularly difficult and doesn't require many tools. You can get an in-lbs torque wrench on amazon for the cams and zip ties?

I wouldn't drive that car until you figure it out to be safe. Luckily for me, I was able to park mine within 100miles of hearing it on mine.
Thanks for the info. I will post some detailed pictures for you guys to look at. She only has to make it 9 more miles hom from work today.

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[SREVAN]

Also is the valve cover gasket set I need the same as the sentra sr20de?
That's the one I got

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[SREVAN]

Here are some pictures.
Let me know what you guys see

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/7f954c4e9e036dcc4563f8cbf92eb5a6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/7dc81721ecf351f7af9f8e9dc36f9ee0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/5637e6a9b866cc2fd15384203066b79d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/4b63409371d768b859584744a972a24f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/ab5ab25e9380172d8381cce344c665a0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/3743e60bcb6705eae9d31d88046bb154.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/0e85d9cbdeebb33f2d3dae587ad9ff9b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/d59448dc6fee9389ae3618310d76ed58.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/076cfa3e49fadc4a880698960a89a711.jpg

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[SREVAN]

The 2 oiler holes towards the front of the tubes on both sides are not spraying oil while cranking over. It took the rest about 15 seconds for the oil to start coming out. I'm going to remove and clean them. Anybody know what the tq specs when putting back In are?

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[SREVAN]

Oiler removed and cleaned with carb cleaner and a small needle. Going to re install now.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/e26ad806459b08f85d60860a0793fb58.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/f75dd08e74741b9e9d2b4a267781f724.jpg

[SREVAN]

Now re installed and will check for oil flow when I have another person handy.


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/818e900871aa6178ce462d28c64d3cce.jpg

[SREVAN]

Also changed out temp gauge sensor and thermostat. Coolant seemed to be moving very slowly underneath radiator cap at operating temp.
It seemed to be running a little warm but the gauge never showed anytging over the middle so I changed the sender just for good measure.

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[SREVAN]

Old sensor and new one Installed.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/d3c9da8729629f3a04c59e82d64ea4ef.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160925/81a5539065dcb4cc6bdac6970ff424af.jpg

[SREVAN]

Ok i got it all back together now and there all squirting but I still hear a tick but it is a thousand times quiter than it was before.

Also the coolant still doesn't seem to be moving very quickly.
And it warms up really fast on the gauge but never shows hot?
Heat works great so I'm assuming it is flowing properly.
I guess my next thing to change will be the water pump.

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[SREVAN]

I guess I'm going to be removing and bleeding the lifters. Makes me a little nervous to take the cams out myself but I think I can handle it. I'm sure it would cost a good amount for a shop to do it.

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[Tyler_240]

When you go to bleed the lifters, I would suggest putting them in their own little cups, like a soda can or something to keep them upright and let them sit overnight after you squeeze every bit of air out of them. I used a small allen wrench and you just find the sweet spot inside the lifter, and it should be easy to depress, and just jerk it off till you see no more air bubbles. When you go to install them, keep them upright the entire time.

You may should look into converting to dual guides if you are going to be removing the rocker arms. It is one of those while you are in there type upgrades.

What it means is taking the 8x shims (Flat Top) and converting them to 8x guides. To do this, you just simply order 8 OEM valve guides, and then you need to have your rocker arms machined slightly. Personally, I just had mazworx do mine, they offer a mail-in service.

If you are on stock valvetrain, you should be able to just toss them in and go, at least that's what i did.

You absolutely need a in-lbs torque wrench IMO, and follow the FSM procedures for removing and installing the cams precisely. There is a specific torque sequence.

[SREVAN]

When you go to bleed the lifters, I would suggest putting them in their own little cups, like a soda can or something to keep them upright and let them sit overnight after you squeeze every bit of air out of them. I used a small allen wrench and you just find the sweet spot inside the lifter, and it should be easy to depress, and just jerk it off till you see no more air bubbles. When you go to install them, keep them upright the entire time.

You may should look into converting to dual guides if you are going to be removing the rocker arms. It is one of those while you are in there type upgrades.

What it means is taking the 8x shims (Flat Top) and converting them to 8x guides. To do this, you just simply order 8 OEM valve guides, and then you need to have your rocker arms machined slightly. Personally, I just had mazworx do mine, they offer a mail-in service.

If you are on stock valvetrain, you should be able to just toss them in and go, at least that's what i did.

You absolutely need a in-lbs torque wrench IMO, and follow the FSM procedures for removing and installing the cams precisely. There is a specific torque sequence.

Thanks for the advise.
Im highly thinking about just taking it to tiger racing in norcross GA to have them bleed the lifters and check it out.

[SREVAN]

I'm going to take it to tiger racing on Wednesday.
This is my daily driver so i need it back up and running same day. (hope this can be done)