View Full Version : Buying an automatic SR20det and putting on manual transmission
vinnyjdm
06-02-2016, 03:54 PM
Has anybody done this? tried searching but didn't find any clear results. I know I would need a manual transmission, wiring harness for manual, and a manual ECU. but is there anything else I would need to do to the engine to make it compatible to put a manual transmission on it?
Thanks in advance.
5280VertDET
06-02-2016, 04:57 PM
You only need to swap the TPS (6pin AT, 3Pin MT) harness and the MT harness. the 63 ECU runs fine with a MT.
97nismo
06-02-2016, 06:00 PM
My Sr was an auto and I did the 5 speed swap ^^^ what he said
My trans ecu was a auto redtop if I remember
renegade_ewok
06-02-2016, 06:49 PM
Ive run an auto redtop ECU on what was an originally manual S14 notchtop (long story, blown VVT, etc etc)
So yeah, mix and match however you want.
hanzbrady
06-02-2016, 07:02 PM
Pilot bushings are also different I believe!
97nismo
06-02-2016, 07:15 PM
Yep pilot bushings are different just like a ka manual swap
kashira kureijii
06-02-2016, 08:13 PM
Auto's don't have a pilot, they use this super annoying to take off collar thing, just took one off yesterday haha.
zombiewolf513
06-02-2016, 09:07 PM
Yeah that collar is a bitch to get out. I used this massive adjustable crescent thing. Tip: have a friend hold the crank on the front with a breaker while you use this to turn and pull the collar out at the same time:
http://s33.postimg.org/7khcrrpi7/image.jpg
kashira kureijii
06-02-2016, 10:15 PM
Yeah that collar is a bitch to get out. I used this massive adjustable crescent thing. Tip: have a friend hold the crank on the front with a breaker while you use this to turn and pull the collar out at the same time:
Didn't think of that, I used slide hammer after I sorta loosened up the edges of the collar with a hammer and screwdriver.
Grinding won't work, as it sticks like an inch and a half into the crank, I tried to grind little cuts, and then stick a screwdriver in them and spin the collar, but all it did was break the end off the screwdriver.
The new pilot bearing was kinda a bitch to get into that virgin crank hole, its wedged in their pretty tight, probably cuz its never had anything there to wear it out.
Hoffman5982
06-02-2016, 11:14 PM
You only need to swap the TPS (6pin AT, 3Pin MT) harness and the MT harness. the 63 ECU runs fine with a MT.
No. I ran the auto tps for about 2 years before switching it because I thought it was bad. I have a WS harness and the TPS plug fit one of the plugs on the tps. Just plug it into that and you're good. Similar to how auto KA's have two plugs on the TPS but you only need one when using a manual harness(Also running that setup on my s13).
Pilot bushings are also different I believe!
Yeah the bushing on the auto was much larger and stuck out. It was way easier to remove than any pilot pushing I've done.
I ran an auto ecu and never had an issue. Unlike KA's, auto ecu's still have a speed cut. With a j30 final gear(3.9), I topped out at about 125mph. You can use an auto engine harness if want. Either way, it has to be converted for usdm chassis, and you have to use a manual trans harness with your manual trans.
I preferred having an auto motor. I had a blown manual motor so I already had everything I needed. My auto motor was the cleanest SR I'e seen. The chances of it being ragged on are less likely as well.
vinnyjdm
06-02-2016, 11:19 PM
No. I ran the auto tps for about 2 years before switching it because I thought it was bad. I have a WS harness and the TPS plug fit one of the plugs on the tps. Just plug it into that and you're good. Similar to how auto KA's have two plugs on the TPS but you only need one when using a manual harness(Also running that setup on my s13).
Yeah the bushing on the auto was much larger and stuck out. It was way easier to remove than any pilot pushing I've done.
I ran an auto ecu and never had an issue. Unlike KA's, auto ecu's still have a speed cut. With a j30 final gear(3.9), I topped out at about 125mph. You can use an auto engine harness if want. Either way, it has to be converted for usdm chassis, and you have to use a manual trans harness with your manual trans.
I preferred having an auto motor. I had a blown manual motor so I already had everything I needed. My auto motor was the cleanest SR I'e seen. The chances of it being ragged on are less likely as well.
thats kind of what I was thinking. I found an auto SR for 1700 from a dealer he said we can compression test the motor and that its got 180 compression across the board.... highest I've heard from an SR.
Going to see if he will come down if I purchase just the engine. Then I gotta piece everything else together
http://i65.tinypic.com/2hqeyw1.jpg
zombiewolf513
06-02-2016, 11:25 PM
Itll probably cost another $200 for a trans, and at least then another maybe $300 for a clutch/flywheel. Would it really be more cost effective to go auto?
Either way, it has to be converted for usdm chassis, and you have to use a manual trans harness with your manual trans.
Can't you just convert the auto lower harness like you can with the KA?
Hoffman5982
06-02-2016, 11:29 PM
thats kind of what I was thinking. I found an auto SR for 1700 from a dealer he said we can compression test the motor and that its got 180 compression across the board.... highest I've heard from an SR.
Going to see if he will come down if I purchase just the engine. Then I gotta piece everything else together
http://i65.tinypic.com/2hqeyw1.jpg
Where are you buying from? Mine also had 180psi but in the videos the gauge started ar about 30 so I figured that equaled out to 150, assuming it was zeroed out at 30.
Can't you just convert the auto lower harness like you can with the KA?
From what I remember(I did this swap over 5 years ago) before throwing the trans and everything associated with it out, the plugs were pretty different. I didn't pay attention because I had already made my own manual transmission harness. But even if you can, you have to convert other plugs to plug into the usdm chassis harness.
Hoffman5982
06-02-2016, 11:32 PM
If I ever buy an SR again, which I probably won't, I will for sure go with an auto motor. This motor has never let me down.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/hoffman91/95%20240sx/DSCN2148.jpg
derass
06-03-2016, 12:01 AM
I found an auto SR for 1700 from a dealer he said we can compression test the motor and that its got 180 compression across the board.... highest I've heard from an SR.
Seeing as the spec is 9-11 km/cm^2 (128-156 psi), either their gauge is busted and they don't know what they're talking about or they're blowing smoke up your ass.
Itll probably cost another $200 for a trans, and at least then another maybe $300 for a clutch/flywheel. Would it really be more cost effective to go auto?
Someone once pointed out to me that an automatic engine is less likely to have been abused over the course of its life, I would agree.
vinnyjdm
06-03-2016, 12:20 AM
Yeah idk, but on google I've heard seen multiple people say they got over 160 comp. with their SR. idk what the deal is
Habibi240
06-03-2016, 01:29 AM
I was gonna buy that auto swap actually just for the long block but decided to let tf give me a rebuild on mine .
simmode1
06-03-2016, 09:08 AM
Auto SR + CD009 = the new hotness
97nismo
06-11-2016, 05:42 AM
I had 155 across the board on my stock redtop but I have heard of people getting higher but idk
theStig880
06-11-2016, 08:19 AM
My Sr came to me with a manual trans but was originally an automatic. Only sign was the TPS and harness was auto. The auto TPS are a little notorious for going bad sooner than the manual counterparts and I switched it early on.
Sleepy_Steve
06-12-2016, 09:42 AM
Yeah, I threw a rod in my engine a few weeks ago, so if I can get a replacement auto motor of S14 or S15 SR flavor as an auto and save some money, I'm all about it. But I also have everything needed to convert to 5speed, so that helps.
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