Sr20 turbo oil feed stripped

[collegekid]

Hello friends

Short story

Found my turbo oil feed stripped. I'm not trying to ghetto fix it. No helicoil, inserts, not gonna just buy a longer banjo bolt and I don't know any good welders so I need to retap it to something bigger.
I'm trying to follow this threads instructions
http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-stripped-oil-feed-sr20det-t443899.html
but im still lost on what I need to run the premade ss line kits from DIF or P2M.

I am not trying to build my own lines and stuff.

Any clues scooby doo? What have you guys done if you've ever been in the same scenario? Should I just call any of the vendors and speak with them?

Start of Long explanation

[I found out that the previous owner of my sr had stripped the thread on the block for the turbo oil feed. When I took it off it came off easy and normally. I just discovered the remains of what looks like to be some kind of insert or helicoil.

I have searched for a couple days and I did find some helpful info, most notably,

http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-stripped-oil-feed-sr20det-t443899.html

I would like to do this right and just once. I understand helicoil or timesert would do the job, but I would like to have peace of mind. I am reluctant about having someone weld in an AN fitting on the block. I also want to avoid using multiple adapters to get it to match up.

I do think I will just drill it out some more and retap it to a slightly bigger size.

I am very confused as to what I should use. In the thread link I posted, he uses an adapter to run AN fittings on a SS line. All of the Sr20 kits for SS lines reuse the factory banjo bolt. I cant tell if those end pieces are removable and can be disconnected so that I can just take off the banjo bolt connection and thread it onto whatever adapter I have going into the block. ]

End of long explanation

[Black240Ct]

i made a bolt that is longer to get into the good threads in the block and has worked well for me for years. i am parting stuff out and can sell it to you

[jedi03]

call and see if techs can advise on what to redrill to, with going bigger may need to find another vendor that will match the new hole you drilled and tapped and reduce to the premade kits...not that hard but is daunting if you haven't done it before!

[Tyler_240]

It is fairly simple to repair. I had to do this recently when i picked up someone elses unfinished project.

You absolutely have to pick-up new crush washers. Z32 crush washers will work if you order them from Nissan.

The biggest pain in the ass is getting the correct drill bit for the helicoil. If the previous owner already tried to tap it, chances are, you are going to have a tough time.

The problem i ran into with the motor in the car was that my drill bit was to long and i had clearance issues with my drill. The best thing to do would be to have a machine shop chop it down some for you.

But the OEM lines and Banjo Bolt should work once you've helicoiled it. Triple check that the line's eyebolt the "O" isn't cracked from being over torqued.

[hanzbrady]

I'd tap it to a larger NPT thread size then run an NPT to -4an adapter then get a line made. That's how you fix it without being ghetto.

[KAT-PWR]

Time sert is far from ghetto
Probably the best option followed by drilling and tapping to a new size.

[collegekid]

Sorry to reply late to this

I will be drilling and tapping to a larger npt - an fitting.

Unfortunately P2m is providing conflicting information on whether the oil feed connection at the banjo bolt is a -4 or -3 fitting......
Frsport hasnt answered my calls for the last 2 days either......

sigh.....
try again tomorrow I guess.

[hanzbrady]

I'm confused, so you're tapping to an AN fitting and staying banjo? It'd be easier to just get a -4 feed fitting for you turbo and run a standard -4 to -4 line.

[collegekid]

I apologize for the confusion, I will be tapping to An and using all an fittings. The SS oil and water line kits they sell from DIF, Phase 2 ISR re use the banjo bolts but that is just an adapter. That adapter screws into either a -3 or a -4 and I've been trying to check with the vendors on what it is.

I'll have to keep trying I guess. I hope it is -4 since those are cheaper.

[collegekid]

Just to update this in case someone else has the same issue

I did exactly what the Guide from nico said to do.

I bought some drill bit from home depot but since my engine was still in the car i had clearance issues. I just cut down 1/2'' from the bottom off the drill bit and made sure to keep the guides still usable ( they still are since you dont cut off a lot)
My power drill and drill bit barely fit but I got it done. Tapping it sucks ass but its possible to do it right. You only tap about 1/2'' to 3/4'' ( compare to your original banjo bolt)

I ended up buying P2m lines and they were -3an so I ordered the pegasus auto racing part # 3250-04-03A which is a 1/4 npt to 3 an male to male adapter for 10.99

[Nissan2nr22]

I'd tap it to a larger NPT thread size then run an NPT to -4an adapter then get a line made. That's how you fix it without being ghetto.

Done this before can vouch , only i didnt need to get a line made i just got a AN fitting/conversion adapters and it plugged right into my aftermarket average stainless steel lines i just took off the fitting that converts the line into a banjo bolt style line